VJv 


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AROUND  THE  PYRAMIDS: 

BEING 


A TOUR  IN  THE  HOLY  LAND, 


AND,  INCIDENTALLY,  THROUGH  SEVERAL  EUROPEAN 
COUNTRIES,  AND  PORTIONS  OF  AFRICA, 


DURING  THE  TEARS  1859-60. 


BY  AARON  WARD. 


NEW  YORK: 

Carleton , Publisher , 413  Broadway . 


(LATE  RUDD  A CARLETON.) 

M DCCC  LX1Y. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1863, 

By  AARON  WARD, 

In  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  District  Court  for  the  Southern  District  of  New 
York. 


V 


TO 

MY  OLD  AND  VALUED  FRIEND, 

GENERAL  GEORGE  P.  MORRIS, 

THE  ESTEEMED  AND  WELL  KNOWN 
LYRIC  POET  OF  AMERICA, 

THIS  VOLUME 


3*  sp  titf  u 1 1 2 iBt&Uatifc 


Contents 


page 

CHAPTER  I. 

The  Departure 13 

CHAPTER  n. 

The  Voyage ' 17 

CHAPTER  m. 

Newfoundland 20 

CHAPTER  IY. 

Ireland 25 

CHAPTER  V. 

London  from  St.  Paul’s 32 

CHAPTER  VI. 

Westminster  Abbey 36 

CHAPTER  VH. 

National  and  Royal  Academy 39 

CHAPTER  VIII. 

Ramble  through  Hampton  Court 41 

CHAPTER  IX. 

England  in  the  Olden  Time 45 

CHAPTER  X. 

Goodwood  Races 47 

CHAPTER  XI. 

Hyde  Park  and  a Review 61 

CHAPTER  xrr. 

London  to  Ostend 54 


Vlll 

CONTENTS. 

Cities  of  Belgium 

PAGE 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

CHAPTER  XIV. 

From  Ostend  to  Bruges 66 

CHAPTER  XV. 


City  of  Ghent 

Marseilles  to  Malta 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Malta 

CHAPTER  XVII. 

Alexandria  in  Egypt. . 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Cairo 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

Heliopolis 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Memphis 

CHAPTER  XXI. 

Suez 

CHAPTER  XXII. 

Alexandria  to  Gazza ... 

CHAPTER  XXin. 

Askelon  to  Joppa 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

Joppa  to  Jerusalem .... 

CHAPTER  XXV. 

Jerusalem 

CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Jerusalem 

CHAPTER  XXVII. 

Jerusalem 

CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

Jerusalem.....  . ... 

CHAPTER  XXIX. 

Jerusalem 

CHAPTER  XXX. 

CONTENTS. 


IX 


PAGE 

CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Jerusalem 151 

CHAPTER  XXXn. 

Jerusalem 155 

CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

Jerusalem 167 

CHAPTER  XXXIV. 

Jerusalem 160 

CHAPTER  XXXV. 

Jerusalem 168 

CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

Bethlehem 168 

CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

Prom  Jerusalem  to  Sechem 173 

CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

Plain  of  Moreh 179 

CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

Samaria 183 

CHAPTER  XL. 

Bedouins  ......  187 

CHAPTER  XLI. 

Mount  Tabor 191 

CHAPTER  XLII. 

Nazareth......  194 

CHAPTER  XLIII. 

Sea  of  Tiberias 198 

CHAPTER  XLIV. 

Town  of  Acre  209 

CHAPTER  XLV. 

Route  to  Tyre 213 

CHAPTER  XL VI. 

Tyre 216 

CHAPTER  XL VII. 

Journey  to  Sidon 220 

CHAPTER  XL VIII. 

Old  Sidon 224 


X 


CONTENTS. 


PAGB 

CHAPTER  XLIX. 

Ashmanezer’s  Sarcophagus 228 

CHAPTER  L. 

From  Sidon  to  Beirout 233 

CHAPTER  LI. 

In  Beirout  238 

CHAPTER  LII. 

Excursion  to  Dog  River 241 

CHAPTER  Lin. 

From  Beirout  to  Tripoli 246 

CHAPTER  LIV. 

From  Tripoli  to  Latakia 260 

CHAPTER  LV. 

Alexandretta  and  Tarsus 254 

CHAPTER  LVI. 

Rhodes  and  Scio 260 

CHAPTER  LVn. 

Smyrna 266 

CHAPTER  LVIII. 

From  Smyrna  to  Constantinople 271 

CHAPTER  LIX. 

Constantinople 276 

CHAPTER  LX. 

Athens  and  Its  Ruins 291 

CHAPTER  LXI. 

Athens  and  Its  Ruins 297 

CHAPTER  LXII. 

Athens  to  Marseilles 302 


Introduction 


To  those  of  his  countrymen  who  may  contemplate  a tour 
through  the  East,  the  writer  of  this  volume  deems  it  probable 
that  he  may  impart  such  information  to  them  in  regard  to  the 
route  to  be  followed,  the  proper  season  of  the  year  for  visiting 
certain  localities,  and  the  means  and  facilities  best  adapted  for 
the  successful  prosecution  of  an  extended  tour,  as  will  prove  both 
interesting  and  serviceable.  He  refers  his  readers,  who  may 
desire  information  in  regard  to  the  expense  of  a tour  in  the  East, 
to  the  note  at  the  close  of  the  volume. 

Few  persons  undertake  a distant  journey  without  previously 
seeking  to  make  themselves  familiar,  by  examining  maps  and 
books  relating  to*  the  country  through  which  they  propose  to  pass, 
and  selecting  the  routes  they  may  deem  the  most  worthy  of  be- 
ing followed.  This  is,  indeed,  the  proper  mode  to  adopt ; and 
with  this  view,  the  author  of  the  present  work  made  it  his  study 
for  months  prior  to  his  leaving  home,  carefully  to  peruse  all  books 
relative  to  the  East  whioh  the  Astor  Library,  in  New  York,  as 
well  as  his  own  private  collection,  and  those  of  his  friends,  afford- 
ed him.  With  the  aid  of  excellent  charts  and  surveys,  in  addi- 
tion to  the  information  he  derived  from  books,  he  was  able  to 
lay  out  his  entire  journey,  and  in  many  cases  to  fix  correctly 


XU 


INTRODUCTION. 


upon  the  very  days  he  would  be  at  certain  points  in  his  tour. 
This  enabled  him  to  systematically  carry  out  his  plans  with  a 
degree  of  precision,  and  the  slightest  loss  of  time,  rarely  attained 
by  travellers. 

Having  long  had  an  earnest  desire  to  visit  the  Red  Sea  and 
Suez,  he  decided  in  1859,  as  soon  as  he  learned  that  the  railroad 
from  Alexandria  to  Suez  was  opened  to  the  travelling  public,  to 
do  so.  The  aversion  he  entertained  to  journeying  across  the 
desert  on  the  backs  of  camels,  because  of  their  disagreeable  gait, 
had  heretofore  induced  him  to  postpone  this  interesting  and  most 
desirable  tour. 

The  following  account  of  his  travels  may,  perhaps,  possess 
additional  interest  to  some  of  his  readers,  from  the  fact  that  the 
letters  composing  it  were  written  at  the  principal  points  in  his 
journey ; and  with  the  intention  of  describing  these  interesting 
localities,  so  that  his  course  might  be  traced  upon  a map  without 
difficulty,  from  his  departure  from  New  York,  until  his  return 
from  the  Holy  Land  to  Marseilles,  where  the  description  of  the 
journey  ends.  These  letters  were  addressed  to  his  family  at 
home,  and  were  not  intended  for  publication ; but  as  those  por- 
tions of  them  which  appeared  in  the  Evening  Post  and  Home 
Journal  have  been  extensively  republished  in  other  literary  pa- 
pers throughout  this  country,  the  author  on  this  account  thinks 
that  the  whole  may  possess  sufficient  interest  to  warrant  their 
being  collected  and  published  in  this  small  volume. 

Sing  Sing,  N.  Y.,  Jannary,  1863. 


Around  the  Pyramids. 


\ 


CHAPTER  I. 

THE  DEPARTURE. 


Departure  — Farewell — The  Pilot  Rising  Gale -Neversink— Horace— Ear- 
ly and  Later  Navigation— Casting  the  Log— Taking  the  Meridian— The 
View— The  Banks. 


At  half-past  eleven  o’clock,  a.  m.,  on  March  31st, 
1859,  accompanied  by  my  daughter,  I repaired  to  the 
propeller  Circassian,  lying  at  pier  number  thirty-seven 
Hudson  River,  New  York,  where  we  met  many  dear 
and  valued  friends,  who  were  awaiting  our  arrival, 
in  order  to  bid  us  farewell.  This  painful  ceremony, 
not  unmixed  with  a subdued  pleasure,  was  closed  at 
twelve  o’clock  at  noon.  Many  of  our  friends,  how- 
ever, remained  on  the  wharf  while  the  steamer  was 
getting  under  way,  waving  their  handkerchiefs  occa- 
sionally, in  token  of  their  esteem  and  regard,  until 
we  lost  sight  of  each  other. 

The  pilot,  on  coming  on  board,  assumed  the  entire 
command  and  control  of  the  vessel,  until  we  had 
gone  some  miles  out  to  sea,  when  he  departed,  in  a 
small  yawl  for  the  pilot-boat  which  was  in  the  offing, 
waiting  his  coming  to  convey  him  back  to  the  har- 
bor. 

Shortly  after  his  departure,  we  passed  the  steamer 


14 


THE  DEPARTURE. 


Alps,  from  Liverpool,  bound  to  New  York.  The 
wind  was  then  blowing  what  landsmen  would  call  a 
gale  ; but,  as  it  was  favorable,  every  sail  was  set, 
and  we  bowled  along  at  the  rate  of  fifteen  knots  an 
hour.  The  sea  presented  a grand  but  terrific  appear- 
ance during  that,  and  for  several  succeeding  days. 

We  lost  sight,  some  time  before  sunset,  of  our  na- 
tive land,  endeared  to  us  bv  many  sweet  and  hal- 
lowed associations ; and,  as  the  night  came  on,  sped, 
with  flowing  sails,  on  our  course.  The  highlands  in 
New  Jersey,  called  Neversink,  well  known  to  Amer- 
ican mariners,  and  endeared  to  them  because  their 
bold  fronts  are  the  last  their  eyes  fall  on  when  leav- 
ing, and  the  first  that  greet  them  on  returning  to 
their  native  land,  so  that  with  them  they  always  asso- 
ciate their  fondest  thoughts  of  home  and  the  hopes 
of  a safe  return,  finally  sank  below  the  horison.  As 
several  of  my  own  family  reside  in  the  above-named 
patriotic  State,  I gazed  upon  the  fading  land  with 
feelings  similar  to  those  which  filled  the  breasts  of 
the  sailors  on  our  noble  vessel. 

As  the  land  disappeared  from  sight,  the  following 
words  of  Horace  in  regard  to  traversing  the  sea  with 
ships,  rose  to  my  mind  : — “ His  heart  must  needs 
have  been  bound  with  oak  and  triple  brass,  who  first 
committed  his  frail  bark  to  the  tempestuous  sea/’ 

When  one  embarks  for  the  first  time  upon  the 
ocean,  he  naturally  is  Hd  to  reflect  bn  the  advance- 
ment of  nautical  science,  from  the  time  when  the 
canoe  and  raft  constituted  the  only  craft  of  the  sail- 
lor ; the  narrow  precincts  of  a river,  a lake,  or  the 
border  of  the  sea,  the  bounds  of  his  watery  empire  ; 
and  the  adventurous  rover  deemed  himself  lost  if  he 
drifted  out  of  sight  of  land. 

A voyage  in  the  early  days  of  navigation  was  a 
momentous  and  painful  undertaking.  When  the 
time  appointed  for  the  sailing  of  a vessel  arrived,  the 


THE  DEPARTURE. 


15 


gods  were  solemnly  invoked  and  propitiated  by  nu- 
merous sacrifices ; the  friends  and  countrymen  who 
thronged  the  shore,  fervently  joined  in  prayer  for  the 
adventurers’  deliverance  from  danger,  and  commend- 
ed them  to  the  presiding  deities  of  the  winds  and  the 
waves.  Now,  by  the  assistance  of  the  compass,  the 
log,  and  sextant,  the  chronometer,  the  quadrant  and 
local  charts,  the  commander  of  one  of  the  noble  pack- 
ets or  steamers  of  the  present  day — which  vessels  are 
superior  in  all  respects  to  those  of  any  former  period 
— departs  on  a voyage  across  the  Atlantic  or  Pacific 
witli  comparative  confidence  in  the  successful  prose- 
cution of  his  voyage,  being  able,  at  all  times,  without 
reference  to  the  course,  or  distance  sailed,  the  capri- 
cious winds,  or  stealthy  currents,  to  determine,  with 
entire  accuracy,  his  precise  position  on  the  high  seas. 
Scientific  men  coincide  in  saying  that  it  is  vain  to 
speculate  concerning  the  laws  which  regulate  mag- 
netic attraction.  We  know  the  effect  of  the  pheno- 
mena, but  all  beyond  baffles  the  search  of  science. 

The  log,  of  which  I had  heard  much,  but  knew  so 
little  of  before  I had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  it  prac- 
tically employed,  I found  to  be  simply  a long  cord, 
having  a piece  of  wood  attached  to  one  end,  called 
the  chip.  This  is  of  a quadrangular  form,  and  slung 
at  the  corner  with  a line,  and  loaded  at  the  circum- 
ference. When  cast  overboard,  the  chip  remains 
erect  and  stationary,  and  drags  the  line  off  as  fast  as 
the  sliip  passes  through  the  water.  This  line  is  di- 
vided into  knots,  representing  miles  or  minutes  of  a 
degree,  to  which  they  have  the  same  proportion  as 
the  log-glass  does  to  an  hour.  The  log-glass  is  filled 
with  sand  to  run  through  in  thirty  seconds ; the  length 
of  a knot  is  fifty-one  feet,  the  first  bearing  the  same 
proportion  to  an  hour  as  the  last  is  to  a mile.  The 
log-reel,  upon  which  the  line  is  wound,  being  held  by 
one  of  the  sailors,  the  officer  places  himself  on  the 


16 


THE  DEPARTURE. 


taffrail,  while  a third  person  holds  the  glass,  the  chip 
being  prepared  so  that  the  peg,  fastening  it  in  a per- 
pendicular direction,  will  draw  out  when  the  reel  is 
stopped,  and  allow  it  to  be  easily  drawn  in.  Then, 
having  gathered  sufficient  line  in  his  hands,  he  throws 
it  so  far  to  leeward  that  it  will  not  be  affected  by  the 
eddies  which  follow  in  the  wake  of  the  vessel.  The 
slack  line,  which  allows  the  chip  to  fall  astern,  now 
runs  off,  and  the  instant  the  white  rag,  which  marks 
the  termination,  passes  through  the  hand  of  the 
officer,  he  cries,  “Turn,”  when,  immediately,  the  one 
holding  the  glass  turns  it  over.  The  officer  continues 
to  reel  out  the  line  until  the  sand  in  the  glass  runs 
out,  when  the  person  holding  it  exclaims,  “Stop.” 
Then  the  line  is  grasped,  and  the  number  of  knots 
that  have  passed  off  mark  the  speed  of  the  ship  per 
hour,  which  number,  multiplied  by  the  hours  sailed, 
gives  the  measure  of  the  run. 

It  afforded  me  much  pleasure  not  only  to  see  the 
casting  of  the  log,  but  to  observe  the  officers  obtain 
the  meridian  altitude  of  the  sun  through  the  sextant, 
the  verge  of  which  luminary  precisely  at  twelve 
o’clock,  is  brought,  by  the  reflection  of  the  mirror,  so 
that  its  lower  limb  sweeps  the  horizen,  or  dips,  appa- 
rently, into  the  water.  When  this  is  observed  the 
sun  has  just  passed  the  meridian,  and  the  altitude 
marked  by  the  index,  is  immediately  read  off  and 
noted.  The  navigator,  by  following  certain  rules  laid 
down,  will  then  find  no  difficulty  in  deciding  from 
these  observations  the  latitude  he  is  in.  A daily  and 
accurate  knowledge  ot  which  is  to  the  mariner  of  our 
day  a desideratum  of  easy  attainment,  and  enables 
him,  at  any  time,  to  point  out  on  the  chart  the  exact 
place  his  ship  occupies. 

April  3 d. — The  wind  is  still  blowing  a perfect 
gale.  The  sailors  admit  that  the  waves  are  rolling 
high;  but  say  they  have  seen  them  higher.  Our 


THE  VOYAGE. 


IT 


strongly  built  iron  steamer,  however,  rides  gracefully 
over  them,  regardless  of  their  threatening  and  frightful 
appearance.  There  is  no  sail  of  any  description  to 
be  seen.  The  view  of  an  apparently  shoreless  sea  is 
grand  and  imposing.  By  holding  to  the  railing  I am 
able  to  walk  the  deck,  notwithstanding  the  vessel  is 
rolling  and  pitching  at  a frightful  rate,  nor  have  I been 
afflicted  with  sea-sickness  in  the  slightest  degree. 

The  captain  has  jnst  made  his  reckoning  and  in- 
forms me  that  we  are  in  latitude  forty-two  degrees 
north,  and  nearly  on  the  meridian  of  fifty  degrees 
west  longitude,  which  brings  us  on  the  south  edge  of 
the  banks  of  Newfoundland,  upwards  of  one  thousand 
miles  from  New  York.  The  banks  extend  from  forty 
to  fifty  degrees  north  latitude,  forming,  as  it  were,  a 
bar  at  the  mouth  of  the  great  oceanic  river,  known 
as  the  Gulf  Stream.  The  depth  of  the  water  on  the 
banks  varies  from  fifteen  to  sixty  fathoms.  The  winds 
upon  them  during  the  summer  are  moderate,  and  the 
water  smooth ; but  they  are  then  covered  by  perpet- 
ual fog.  In  July,  August  and  September,  codfish  are 
taken  in  large  quantities,  and  constitute  a rich  harvest 
for  the  honest  and  industrious  fishermen  of  the  United 
States  engaged  in  the  business. 


CHAPTER  II. 

THE  VOYAGE. 

Snow  Storm.— Cape  Clear. — Icebergs —Distinguished  Passengers. — Father 

Point. 

April  4 th. — The  wind  abated  last  night  and  changed 
to  the  northeast,  bringing  with  it  a heavy  snow  storm, 
which  prevented  the  captain  from  taking  his  observ- 
ations ; consequently  he  was  unable  to  ascertain. 


18 


THE  VOYAGE. 


with  certainty,  the  precise  situation  of  the  steamer. 
Feeling  concerned,  however,  lest,  owing  to  the  storm, 
lie  might  meet  with  an  accident,  he  remained  on  deck 
himself,  keeping  watch.  At  about  ten  o’clock,  in 
the  evening,  he  discovered  that  we  were  Tunning  to  • 
ward  the  land,  and  were  within  three-quarters  of  a 
mile  of  it.  Thereupon  he  instantly  ordered  the  course 
of  the  steamer  to  be  changed  seaward ; and,  after 
running  several  miles  from  the  shore,  he  laid  the 
steamer  to  until  day  break.  Our  escape  from  ship- 
wreck upon  an  inhospitable  coast  was  altogether  pro- 
vidential. 

We  discovered,  in  the  morning,  that  the  point  of 
land  we  had  escaped  was  within  fourteen  miles  of 
CapeH'&ee,  and  that  our  vessel  was  lying  to,  during 
the  night,  within  a mile  of  an  iceberg.  This  berg, 
the  captain  estimated,  was  about  three  acres  in  ex- 
tent, and  rose  at  least  fifty  feet  above  the  surface  of 
the  water.  It  was,  to  me,  a grand  and  somewhat 
startling  sight  to  behold  so  vast  a body  of  ice  directly  * 
in  our  course. 

Various  and  beautiful  must  be  the  icebergs  of  the 
northern  ocean,  and  when  hundreds  of  them  are  ob- 
served floating  at  one  time  within  view,  I can  con- 
ceive of  no  grander  or  more  sublime  sight.  And 
when  one  of  those  huge  masses  topples,  the  scene 
must  be  fraught  with  interest  and  terror.  Onward  it 
it  comes,  marching  solemnly  and  stately  over  the  swell- 
ing waves : anon  it  pauses  in  its  onward  course,  its 
alabaster  towers  and  peaks  tremble  and  vibrate  for  a 
moment  ere  they  break  apart,  and  with  a roar  and 
crash  like  thunder,  sink  into  the  bosom  of  the  ocean. 

The  morning  of  the  fifth  was  mild  and  pleasant — • 
the  storm  having  ceased.  At  an  early  hour  we  passed 
around  the  headland  of  CapeRac^  and  run,  in  a 
northerly  direction,  at  no  great  distance  from  the 
coast,  which  is  bounded  by  mountains  rising  from  the 


THE  VOYAGE. 


19 


shore,  to  a height  exceeding  eight  hundred  feet.  Here 
we  observed  many  icebergs,  each  one  of  them  cover- 
ing a much  larger  surface  of  water,  and  rising  to  a 
far  greater  height  than  the  one  we  met  in  the  morn- 
ing. The  sight  of  them  was  truly  magnificent  and 
really  worth  a voyage  across  the  Atlantic  to  see. 

The  day  being  exceedingly  pleasant,  induced  most 
of  the  seasick  passengers  to  come  on  deck.  Having 
been  confined  to  their  rooms  during  the  passage,  it 
deprived  us  of  the  pleasure  of  making  their  acquaint 
ance  until  this  time.  I found  that  several  of  them 
occupied  distinguished  positions  in  society.  Among 
the  number  were  the  Honorable  and  Venerable  Dean 
Canfield,  of  Nassau,  New  Providence,  one  ot*  the  Ba- 
hama Islands,  on  his  way  to  Dublin,  for  his  family. 
The  Reverend  William  Reddjq  Reverend  E.  Cooney, 
and  Mr.  Stafford,  director  of  the  Regispolis  Institu- 
tion at  Kingston,  Canada  West,  my  good  friend  and 
former  host,  Mr.  Burroughs,  late  of  the  Irving  House, 
New- York,  and  several  ladieS.  We  had  on  board  the 
steamer  nineteen  first,  and  twenty-nine  second  class 
passengers,  with  one  hundred  in  the  ste  rage.  Cap- 
tain Ilalpin  is  a fearless  officer,  and  one  of  the  best 
traits  in  his  character  is,  that  he  is  always  to  be  found 
at  his  post. 

Thus  far  I can,  with  truth,  declare,  that  the  route  I 
have  marked  out  to  pursue  is  a most  desirable  one, 
as  it  enables  the  tourist  to  see  the  city  of  St.  Johns, 
in  Newfoundland,  the  South-west  part  of  Ireland; 
the  city  of  Dublin,  and,  if  he  choose,  he  may,  with 
very  little  delay,  visit  the  Killarney  lakes,  the  city  of 
Cork,  which  has  one  of  the  most  beautiful  harbors  in 
the  kingdom,  and  listen  to  the  bells  of  Shandon,  of 
which  Father  Prout,  sings  so  quaintly  and  touchingly  : 

“ With  deep  affection  and  recollection , 

I often  think  of  those  Suandon  bells, 

Whose  sounds  so  wild  would,  in  the  days  of  childhood, 

Fling  round  my  cradle  their  magic  spells. 


20 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 


“ On  this  I ponder  whereier  I wander, 

And  thus  grow  fonder,  sweet  Cork  of  thee, 

With  thy  bells  of  Shandon,  that  sound  so  grand  on 
The  pleasant  waters  of  the  river  Lee.” 


The  charming  river  Shannon,  is  one  of  the  most 
fashionable  places  of  resort  in  that  country.  All 
these  spots  may  be  visited  by  a tourist,  on  his  way  to 
London,  with  very  little,  if  any,  extra  expense. 


CHAPTER  III. 

NEW  FOUNDLAND. 

St  Johns— Its  Government — Public  Buildings  -Bishop  Mulloch— Cod  Fish- 
ery— Galway  teamers — French  Fishermen — Commissioner  Kent — Eu 
r oute — Divine  Service. 

At  two  o’clock,  p.  m.,  of  the  fifth,  we  entered  the 
bay  of  St.  Johns,  which  extends  from  the  sea  about 
four  miles,  and  is  one  ,mile  in  width.  It  is  a pic- 
turesque harbor,  and  contains  much  grand  scenery, 
being  surrounded  by  mountains  which  rise  from  five 
to  eight  hundred  feet  above  tide  water.  The  city  it- 
self is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  southern  slope  of  a 
high  hill,  on  the  northern  side  of  the  harbor,  and 
commands  a noble  view  of  the  bay  and  the  opposite 
mountains.  It  was  burnt  to  the  ground  in  1846, 
since  which  time  it  has  been  rebuilt,  chiefly  with  brick 
and  stone.  It  contains  a population  of  upwards  of 
thirty  thousand  inhabitants,  and  its  financial  affairs, 
as  well  as  those  of  the  province  of  Newfoundland,  of 
which  it  is  the  capital,  are  managed  with  great  econ- 
omy and  ability.  Its  government  is  entirely  in  the 
hands  of  the  Governor  and  the  Legislature,  conse- 
quently the  city  has  neither  mayor  nor  commonalty  ; 
and,  what  is  worthy  of  remark,  its  inhabitants  are 
exempt  from  taxation  of  every  description,  except 
indirect  ones  imposed  by  the  government  on  imported 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 


21 


articles.  The  police  of  the  city,  the  poor  and  the  in- 
sane, and  also  the  public  schools,  are  all  supported 
out  of  the  public  treasury.  Each  religious  denomina- 
tion receives  its  equal  part  of  the  school  fund,  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  number  of  children  connected  with 
it — Catholics  and  Protestants  both  sharing  alike  in  its 
distribution  ; but  the  schools  are  kept  separate.  Great 
attention,  indeed,  is  paid  by  the  inhabitants  to  educa- 
cation  in  all  its  phases. 

An  extensive  Catholic  college  is  in  process  of  erec- 
tion ; one  wing  is  already  completed,  and  when  the 
building  is  finished  it  will  rank  among  the  first  insti- 
tutions of  its  kind  in  the  British  provinces.  The  Gov- 
ernment House  is  a handsome  structure,  and  is  well 
adapted  for  the  purpose  for  which  it  was  erected. 
The  bishop’s  palace,  the  cathedral,  and  the  other  ec- 
clesiastical edifices  of  the  different  denominations, 
are  all  deserving  of  the  particular  attention  of  the 
tourist.  The  cathedral  is  a large  and  nob«e  edifice, 
one  hundred  and  twenty  by  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  in  extent.  The  Convent  of  the  Presentation  and 
the  Convent  of  Mercy  are  both  spacious  built  tings. 

The  Right  Reverend  Bishop  Mulloch,  the  present 
incumbent,  is  much  beloved  and  esteemed  by  his 
people,  and  is  a man  of  high  attainments  ana  Chris- 
tian worth.  The  palace  contains  a choice  collection 
of  paintings,  and  there  are  several  fine  pictures  and 
statuary  in  the  cathedral.  Among  the  latter  the  most 
noticeable  are  the  “ Dead  Christ,”  by  Hogan,  au  Irish 
artist,  and  a group  representing  St.  John  baptising 
our  Saviour. 

The  territorial  government  of  Newfoundland  em- 
braces not  only  the  island  itself,  but  all  those  adja- 
cent, and  the  coast  of  Labrador,  from  the  eastern  ex- 
tremity of  Hudson’s  bay  strait  to  a line  drawn  north 
and  south  from  Anse,  on  the  coast,  to  fifty -two  dep^ea 
north  latitude. 


22 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 


The  government,  by  a royal  grant,  is  placed  in  the 
hands  of  a Governor  and  Executive  Council,  which 
must  not  exceed  fifteen  members,  the  whole  number 
to  be  appointed  by  the  crown.  All  the  public  officers 
are  members  of  the  legislature.  The  householders 
and  freeholders  are  entitled  to  elect,  every  fourth 
year  thirty  additional  members  of  the  Assembly, 
which  compose  the  lower  house.  The  Governor  has 
the  power  to  appoint  all  judges  and  commissioners  of 
Oyer  and  Terminer  as  also  justices  of  the  peace,  with 
power  to  suspend  them  upon  sufficient  cause.  He 
also  possesses  the  veto  privilege,  and  the  power  to 
adjourn  and  prorogue  the  Legislature. 

The  laboring  population  are  mostly  engaged  in 
fishing  ; the  larger  part  of  them  have  acquired  a com- 
petence, and  many  amassed  handsome  fortunes  by 
their  industry  and  honesty  in  their  hazarduous  pur- 
suit. The  chief  desire  of  their  able  and  efficient 
Governor,  the  Honorable  Alexander  Banordman,  is 
to  find  employment  for  them  during  the  winter  sea- 
son. Their  sealing  business  commences  on  the  first 
of  March.  These  men,  so  hardy  and  daring,  are  the 
best  sailors  in  the  world,  for  they  enter  fearlessly  with 
their  vessels  into  extensive  fields  of  ice  in  the  northern 
sea,  where  the  seals  are  usually  to  be  found  among 
the  floating  cakes.  The  sealers  have  been,  f am  told, 
particularly  successful  in  their  voyages  this  apring, 
many  of  them  having  already  returned  into  port  with 
rich  cargoes.  Codfishing,  another  branch  of  their 
business,  commences  about  the  middle  of  May,  and 
ends  in  October.  These  fish  are  taken  in  large  quan- 
tities on  the  banks  of  Newfoundland  and  off  the  coast 
of  Labrador.  Salmon  fishing  commences  about  the 
middle  of  April. 

The  Legislature  of  the  provinces  is  now  in  session, 
and  an  act  has  recently  been  passed  by  that  honor- 
ab'e  body,  in  support  of  the  existing  Galway  line  ol 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 


23 


steamers,  increasing  the  annual  amount  of  the  appro- 
priation for  its  benefit  to  eight  thousand  five  hundred 
pounds.  This  act  met  with  opposition  in  both  branch- 
es ; but  was  carried  by  handsome  majorities.  The 
company  is  engaged  in  constructing  five  new  steam- 
ers of  the  largest  class,  to  be  placed  on  this  route, 
This  line  deserves  encouragement,  and  when  it  is  bet- 
ter known  to  the  travelling  ancL  business  public,  it 
will  doubtless  receive  its  full  proportion  of  passengers 
and  freight.  As  its  terminus  is  at  Hew  York,  that 
city  is  particularly  interested  in  its  success. 

The  people  of  this  province,  very  naturally,  are 
anxious  in  regard  to  the  termination  of  the  fishery 
question,  now  pending  between  Great  Britain  and 
France.  The  French  have  for  a long  time  been  in  the 
habit  of  affixing  large  fish-hooks,  properly  baited,  to 
ropes  extending  for  miles  in  every  direction  on  the 
banks,  which  are  retained  in  their  places  by  anchors, 
and  upheld  on  the  surface  of  the  water  by  buoys. 
This  manner  of  fishing,  it  is  alleged,  destroys  a large 
number  of  fish ; and  the  right  so  to  take  them  is  de- 
nied by  the  province.  There  are,  doubtless,  other 
points  of  difference  involved  in  this  question  to  be 
settled  between  the  high  contracting  powers. 

The  Honorable  John  Kent,  of  St.  Johns,  was  ap- 
pointed, some  time  ago,  Colonial  Commissioner  on 
this  subject.  He  left  St.  Johns  in  the  steamer  Pacific, 
early  in  March,  for  England,  and  was  attended  to  the 
wharf,  on  his  departure,  by  a large  concourse  of  peo- 
ple, who  heartily  cheered  him  on  taking  leave,  thus 
evincing  their  regard  for  him  and  the  interest  they 
took  in  his  mission.  He  and  his  friends  were  received 
on  board  in  a becoming  manner.  The  captain  had 
prepared  an  entertainment  for  them,  and  the  occasion 
was  one  which  called  forth  patriotic  toasts  and 
speeches,  and  showed  the  great  interest  felt  by  the 


24 


NEWFOUNDLAND. 


people  of  the  province  for  a speedy,  just  and  equita- 
ble settlement  of  the  question  at  issue. 

We  left  St.  Johns  on  the  sixth  of  April,  at  foui 
o’clock,  p.  m.,  with  a fair  wind,  and  under  a full  press 
of  sail,  and  within  three  hours  thereafter  lost  sight  of 
land,  with  every  prospect  before  us  of  making  a short 
and  uninterrupted  passage ; but,  at  ten  o’clock  at 
night,  we  run  into  a held  of  floating  ice,  which  covered  - 
the  sea  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  with  here  and 
there  an  open  space,  which  had  the  appearance  of  a 
lake.  No  other  than  a sailing  vessel  or  a prop>ell<>r 
could  have  made  its  way  through  it,  ahd  even  with 
us  the  advance  was  both  slow  and  hazardous.  It  was 
twelve  hours  before  we  were  free  from  this  floe,  and 
though  the  danger  was  not,  perhaps  imminent,  yet 
the  appearance  was  frightful.  I was  told  by  one  of 
the  assistant  officers,  who  had  been  previously  for 
twenty  years  engaged  in  the  seal  fishery,  that  he  had 
repeatedly  passed  through  similar  fields  in  the  arctic 
seas,  without  any  accident,  and  though  we  were  not 
altogether  free  from  danger,  lie  did  not  doubt  but  he 
would  carry  our  strongly  built  iron  propellor  safely 
through  the  field  : — which  he  fortunately  did,  much 
to  the  joy  and  relief  of  those  on  board. 

On  Sunday,  the  tenth  of  April,  divine  service, 
which  was  attended  by  all  the  passengers,  including 
many  from  the  steerage,  was  held'  on  the  after  deck. 
The  Honorable  and  Venerable  Dean  Canfield  lead 
the  service  of  the  Established  Church  of  England,  and 
afterwards  delivered  an  eloquent  and  comprehensive 
sermon,  on  the  transfiguration  of  our  blessed  Lord 
and  Saviour  on  Mount  Tabor,  which  was  listened  to 
with  deep  attention  by  all  present. 


IRELAND. 


25 


CHAPTER  IY. 

IRELAND. 


S/ght  of  Land— The  Pilot— Steam-tug  Galway  Station  Houses  -The  Coun- 
try- Turf  Land — Herds  and  Flocks — Linen — Dwellings  of  Farmers  - 
Greshinan  Hotel— Dublin— View  of  the  City  Botanical  Garden  -Pros- 
pect Cemetery  Bay  of  Dublin— Public  Buildings — Society— Holy-Head 
— Suspension  Bridge— Arrival  in  London. 


Our  passage,  after  we  had  cleared  the  ice,  was 
more  like  a pleasure  excursion  upon  an  inland  lake, 
than  a voyage  across  the  broad  Atlantic.  Day  after 
day  went  pleasantly  by  in  sunshine,  soft  airs  were 
wafted  around  us,  and  brilliant  starlight  nights  looked 
down  upon  us.  On  the  thirteenth  of  April,  the  cap- 
tain informed  us  that  we  should  make  land  before 
night;  and  even  while  he  was  imparting  to  me  this 
agreeable  intelligence,  the  lookout  discovered  a pilot- 
boat  in  the  distance.  This  fact  was  soon  known 
throughout  tlu  vessel,  and  most  of  the  passengers  as- 
sembled on  deck  to  witness  the  interesting  and  some- 
what exciting  spectacle  of  receiving  the  pilot.  All 
eyes  were  directed  toward  a small  black  vessel,  with 
a raking  mast,  a main-sail  and  two  jibs,  swiftly  ap- 
proaching us.  When  within  a short  distance  of  us 
we  laid  to,  while  a yawl,  as  black  as  the  pilot-boat 
itself,  was  launched  from  its  deck,  and  the  pilot,  fol- 
lowed by  one  of  the  sailors,  stepped  into  it,  and  was 
rowed  to  the  side  of  our  vessel.  The  mate  threw  a 
rope,  which  the  pilot  seized. 

“Don’t  hurry  yourself,  pilot,”  said  our  captain, 
u you  have  time  enough  yet.” 

“ Aye,  aye,”  he  replied,  swinging  himself  up  the 
side  of  the  steamer,  and  immediately  a hearty  jack-tar 
from  the  Emerald  isle  stood  before  us.  He  was  as 
cordially  received  by  all  the  passengers  as  though 

3 


26 


IRELAND. 


they  had  been  acquainted  with  him  for  years,  and  he 
to  their  great  delight,  distributed  among  them  a num- 
ber of  newspapers  of  late  dates. 

“ This  vessel,  sir,”  the  captain  said,  addressing  the 
pilot,  is  now  under  your  command.” 

The  steamer  was  soon  under  weigh  again,  under 
her  usual  head  of  steam,  with  all  her  sails  set  to  catch 
the  favoring  breeze,  and  sped  along  at  the  rate  of 
twelve  knots  an  hour  towards  its  destined  port.  Be- 
fore sunset  we  obtained  a full  view  of  the  shore ; but 
we  reached  our  place  of  anchorage  at  too  late  an  hour 
to  enable  us  to  land  that  night,  so  we  quietly  remain- 
ed in  our  berth  until  the  next  morning,  when  we 
disembarked  and  were  conveyed  to  Galway  in  a 
steam-tug,  through  a severe  hail  storm.  We  were 
detained,  however,  unfortunately,  upwards  of  an  hour 
on  board  this  uncomfortable  craft,  in  consequence  of 
the  depth  of  water,  at  that  time  of  the  tide,  not  being 
sufficient  to  float  her  to  the  wharf. 

Galway  is  a small,  but  exceedingly  pleasant  and 
agreeable  town.  Its  harbor  is  defended  by  a strong 
fort;  and  its  foreign  commerce  and  inland  traffic  are 
considerable — the  latter  being  much  facilitated  by 
means  ot  the  Lough  and  Cervil.  This  borough  has 
also  a great  trade  in  kelp,  and  a profitable  salmon 
fishery.  There  is  a very  beautiful  park  in  the  centre 
of  the  town,  and  a large  public  house,  built  after  the 
most  approved  model,  by  the  railroad  company.  Here 
we  were  served  with  everything  that  the  inclination 
could  wish  for  and  the  appetite  desire.  After  ram- 
bling through  this  beautiful  town,  viewing  its  noble 
streets  and  buildings,  we  departed,  at  one  o’clock,  p.m., 
by  railway,  for  Dublin.  The  station  houses  at  Gal- 
way, and  all  along  the  line  of  the  road,  are  beautiful 
and  commodious  structures,  being  built  of  stone,  in 
the  best  style  of  architecture.  Around  the  station 
houses  shrubbery  and  hardy  flowers  have  been 


IRELAND. 


27 


planted,  many  of  which  were  in  bloom.  Among  them 
I nrtficed  the  Persian  lilac,  the  flowering  currant, 
and  other  similar  plants,  all  of  which  attract  the  at- 
tention and  admiration  of  travellers. 

The  aspect  of  the  country,  for  several  miles  from 
Galway,  is  by  no  means  inviting,-  for  a large  portion 
of  it  is  literally  covered  with  stones,  and  the  farmers 
have,  in  order  to  clear  their  land  for  cultivation,  built 
immense  stone  walls,  and  here  and  there  throughout 
their  fields  have  piled  huge  pyramids  of  stones,  which 
both  serve  to  mark  their  own  industry  and  the  im- 
provement they  have  made  in  their  property. 

After  leaving  this  stony  region  we  came  to  the  turf- 
land,  where  they  cut  and  dry  the  peat  for  fuel.  It  is 
largely  employed  in  this  part  of  Ireland  for  that  pur- 
pose, and  when  charred,  or  scorched  to  a black  coal 
it  burns  more  slowly  and  gently,  and  will  bear,  with- 
out being  extinguished,  a trreater  diminution  of  the 
quantity  of  air,  with  which  it  is  supplied,  than  any 
of  the  other  solid  fuels. 

In  1809  the  commissioners  appointed  to  inquire 
into  the  nature  and  extent  of  Irish  bogs,  estimated 
them  at  two  millions  eight  hundred  and  thirty  thou- 
sand English  acres,  of  which  the  larger  portion  lay 
between  a line  drawn  from  Wicklow  Head  to  Gal- 
way, and  another  drawn  from  HowathHead  to  Sligo. 
The  greater  part  of  this  immense  bog  is  capable  of 
being  drained.  It  is  fortunate,  I think,  for  the  people 
of  Ireland,  especially  the  poorer  class,  that  they  have 
these  turf-lands  from  which  to  provide  themselves 
with  a cheap,  excellent,  and  abundant  supply  of  fuel, 
for  there  is  a remarkable  deficiency  of  wood  and 
forest  land  in  the  country  : at  least  such  appeared  to 
me  to  be  the  case  so  far  as  I.  could  observe  on  the 
route  we  travelled. 

After  leaving  these  turf-lands  we  found  the  country 
under  a high  state  of  cultivation.  Sheep,  cattle  and 


28 


IRELAND. 


swine  are  raised  in  great  numbers,  of  which,  a large 
portion  are  exported.  The  grass  in  the  fields,  §ven 
at  this  season,  was  green,  and  cattle  and  sheep  were 
to  be  seen  grazing  in  every  direction.  This  is  owing 
to  the  climate  being  in  general  more  temperate  than 
in  other  countries  situated  in  the  same  degree  of  lati- 
tude. The  heat  of  summer  is  less  oppressive,  and  the 
cold  of  winder  not  so  severe.  It  is  also  much  more 
inclined  to  moisture — even  when  there  is  no  rain  the 
air  is  usually  so  moist  as  to  show  its  effect  in  the 
dampness  which  gathers  on  the  houses  and  even  upon 
the  furniture  within.  The  soil  is,  generally  a fertile 
loam,  on  a rocky  substratum.  This  neighborhood  is 
particularly  noted  for  its  dairy  farms,  which  produce 
an  excellent  quality  of  butter.  Indeed  this  article  is 
the  chief  production  of  the  country,  and  the  butter 
trade  forms  a prominent  feature  in  its  business. 

I was  surprised  to  find  that  the  manufacture  of 
linen,  which  has  been  of  great  importance  to  Ireland, 
not  only  in  a commercial  but  in  a moral  point  of  view, 
is  a domestic  employment:  the  spinners  and  weavers 
being,  as  a general  rule,  peasants,  who  add  to  the 
manufacturing  of  linen  on  their  own  looms  set  up  in 
their  cottages,  the  care  and  cultivation  of  a few  acres 
of  ground. 

The  dwellings  of  the  farmers  throughout  the  coun- 
try are  very  much  alike  in  their  character,  and  are 
usually  one  story  in  height,  with  thatched  roofs.  The 
land  in  the  vicinity  of  Dublin  rents  for  thirty  dollars 
an  acre,  and  sells  for  four  thousand. 

We  reached  the  city  of  Dublin  shortly  before  sun- 
set, and  engaged  apartments  at  the  Gresham  Hotel, 
where  we  were  made  very  comfortable  by  our  host, 
and  enjoyed  a quiet  night’s  rest.  We  devoted  all  our 
time  during  our  sojourn  here  to  visiting  friends  and 
examining  such  objects  as  we  were  advised  were  de- 
serving of  consideration. 


IRELAND. 


29 


Tie  city  is  exceedingly  beautiful,  and  contains  be- 
tween two  hundred  and  fifty  and  three  hundred  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  Sackville  is  the  most  fashionable 
street.  It  runs  north  and  south,  and  is  over  one  hun- 
dred and  sixty  feet  in  width.  In  this  street,  a short 
distance  north  of  the  river  LifFey,  is  a tasteful  monu- 
ment, erected  to  Lord  Nelson,  the  hero  of  Trafalgar, 
which  towers  above  everything  else  in  the  city.  From 
its  top  a fine  view  rf  the  town  and  surrounding  coun- 
try may  be  obtained.  On  the  south,  within  six  miles 
of  the  boundary  of  the  place,  the  Dublin  range  of 
mountains  rises  between  fifteen  hundred  and  two 
thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  tide-water.  These 
mountains  contribute  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the 
landscape  on  that  side  of  the  city.  Dublin,  I was 
informed,  is  rapidly  extending  in  that  direction.  The 
river  LifFey  runs  in  an  easterly  course,  and  divides 
the  city  into  two  parts,  connected  by  seven  stone 
bridges,  which  like  those  of  London  and  Paris,  are 
graceful  structures,  and  attract  attention,  both  on  ac- 
count of  their  lightness  and  strength.  On  the  north- 
west of  the  city  the  Phoenix  Park  is  situated.  It 
covers  seventeen  hundred  and  fifty  acres  of  land,  and 
is  handsomely  laid  out  in  roads  and  walks.  Two  large 
columns  rise  in  its  central  part,  one  is  erected  to  the 
Duke  of  Wellington,  and  the  other  sustains  on  its 
summit  a Phoenix.  The  Lord  Lieutenant’s  mansion, 
a large  and  beautiful  structure  ; also  the  dwellings  of 
his  private  secretaries,  occupy  conspicuous  situations 
wi tliiu  its  boundary. 

On  the  north  of  the  city  lies  Prospect  Cemetery, 
adjoining  which  is  the  Royal  Botanic  Garden.  These 
grounds  are  laid  out  with  great  taste.  The  numerous 
and  expensive  monuments  of  the  rural  cemetery  arise 
amidst  beautiful  forest  trees  and  many  varieties  of 
hardy  shrubbery,  planted  by  the  loving  and  sorrowing 
friends  of  those  whose  remains  here  rest.  Like  our 


30 


IRELAND. 


own  Greenwood,  it  is  much  resorted  to,  and  a walk 
through  its  winding  and  carefully  kept  gravelled 
paths  incites  feelings  of  a subdued  and  mournful  cha- 
racter. 

On  the  east  the  eye  embraces  in  one  view  the  large 
and  commodious  Bay  of  Dublin,  dotted  at  all  times 
with  vessels  going  to  and  from  the  great  Metropolis. 
The  bay  is  at  least  thirty-live  miles  In  circumference 
from  headland  to  headland,  and  about  ten  miles  across 
in  its  widest  part.  Within  its  limits  the  government 
is  constructing  an  immense  breakwater  at  Kingston. 
Several  beautiful  villages  line  the  shore  between  that 
place  and  the  city,  and  are  connected  by  a railroad 
from  the  town,  passing  through  them,  rendering  them 
easy  of  access,  and,  indeed,  constituting  them  a part 
of  the  metropolis.  The  view  of  the  shore,  seen  from 
anj^  point  on  the  bay,  is  extremely  line.  The  houses 
of  the  city,  with  the  exception  of  the  principal  pub- 
lic edifices,  are  general^  constructed  of  brick,  and 
are  from  three  to  five  stories  in  height.  In  the  old 
part  of  the  town  the  streets  are  irregularly  laid  out, 
though  few  cities  of  its  size  can  boast  of  a greater 
number  of  magnificent  structures.  The  Castle,  which 
was  completed  and  flanked  with  towers,  in  1213,  is 
siiuated  near  the  centre  of  the  town,  and  is  the  seat 
of  government.  The  Castle  Chapel,  recently  rebuilt, 
is  an  exquisite  specimen  of  Gothic  architecture.  The 
other  public  edifices  are  the  Commercial  Buildings, 
the  Corn  Exchange,  the  Custom  House,  the  Stamp 
Office,  the  National  Bank,  the  Post  Office,  and  Tri- 
nity College,  which  last  is  of  Portland  stone,  and  of 
the  Corinthian  order.  It  is  situated  in  the  midst  of  a 
park,  of  twenty-six  acres,  handsomely  ornamented 
with  trees  and  shrubbery. 

There  are  also  the  Koyal  Barracks,  St.  Patrick’s 
Law  Courts,  and  the  Cathedral,  in  which  latter  editice 
the  remains  of  the  celebrated  Dean  Swift  now  repose. 


IRELAND. 


31 


The  citizens  of  Dublin  have  e ver  been  distinguished 
for  their  hospitality  to  strangers.  The  social  circles 
of  the  educated  and  higher  class  will  compare  favor- 
ably with  those  of  the  society  of  London  or  Paris, 
and  I think  that  the  refinement  and  elegance  of  man- 
ner which  characterizes  their  ladies  is  not  surpassed 
anywhere  in  the  world. 

We  left  Dublin  for  London,  on  the  sixteenth  inst., 
at  ten  o’clock,  a.m.,  in  a line  steamer,  by  the  way  of 
Iloly-IIead,  a seaport  town  of  Wales,  and  the  largest 
on  the  island  of  Anglesey,  where  we  arrived  at  one 
o’clock,  p.m.  It  is  a place  of  considerable  importance, 
and  has  been  so  since  it  first  became  the  great  point 
of  communication  to  the  Irish  capital,  and  a rendez 
vo us  of  the  mail  packets. 

The  town  consists  chiefly  of  a long  street,  with  de 
tached  and  straggling  buildings,  and  is  two  hundred 
and  seventy-eight  miles  from  London.  The  harbor 
was  formerly  very  unsafe  ; but  the  government  is 
constructing  an  extensive  breakwater,  which  is  now 
so  far  completed  as  to  allow  vessels  to  land  or  sail  at 
all  times  of  the  tide. 

After  dinner,  which  we  took  on  shore,  we  resumed 
our  journey,  passing  through  Bangor,  Conway,  Ryle, 
and  Holiwell,  which  last  place  takes  its  name  from  the 
famous  well  at  Winfred,  concerning  which  many 
fables  and  superstitions  have  prevailed.  We  also 
passed  through  the  large  manufacturing  town  of  Ches- 
ter. I ought  hot  to  omit  to  state  that  I passed  over 
the  very  first  suspension  bridge  ever  constructed.  It 
was  built  across  the  Menai  channel,  which  separates 
the  Island  of  Anglesy  from  the  Main.  There  were, 
beside,  several  tunnels  on  the  route,  and  one  iron 
trunk  bridge.  We  arrived  in  London  early  in  the 
evening  of  the  same  day,  completing  our  journey  of 
three  hundred  and  forty  miles  in  between  thirteen 
and  fourteen  hours. 


32 


LONDON  FROM  ST.  PAUL’S. 


CHAPTER  Y. 

LONDON  FROM  ST.  PAUL’S. 


Yauxhall  Bridge  -Westminster  Abbey — St,  Paul’s  Cathedral— The  Paris 
-The  Docks— The  Post  Office  -The  ower— Temple  Bar  -Origin  of  Lon- 
don—Library  of  St.  Paul’s — Form  of  St.  Paul’s— Monuments. 


I took  my  first  view  of  London  from  Yauxhall 
Bridge.  From  this  point  Westminster  and  Waterloo 
Bridges  are  in  full  view,  and  are  objects  of  peculiar- 
attraction,  on  account  of  their  architectural  beauty. 
The  Hew  Parliament  House,  which  is  not  surpassed 
in  magnificence  or  size  by  any  similar  edifice  in  Eu- 
rope, is  here  seen  to  great  advantage  It  stands  upon 
an  elevated  position,  on  the  banks  of  the  Thames. 
Westminster  Abbey  and  Somerset  House,  as  also  an 
extensive  view  of  London,  embracing  St.  Paul’s  Ca- 
thedral, which  towers  above  everything  else,  is  ob- 
tained from  this  point.  I gazed  upon  these  interest- 
ing objects  till  night  hid  them  from  my  sight,  when  I 
drove  through  the  new  road  which  runs  along  the  ri- 
ver, and  thence  through  Margaret,  Parliament  and 
White-Hall  streets,  to  Trafalgar  Square,  where  stand, 
in  bold  relief,  a beautiful  monument  to  Lord  Nelson, 
a handsome  equestrian  statue  of  King  George  the 
Fourth,  and  a statue  to  Sir  Charles  Napier.  Besides 
these  there  are  two  tasteful  fountains,  throwing  up 
large  volumes  of  water  for  the  comfort  and  amuse- 
ment of  Queen  Yictoria  and  her  loyal  subjects.  This 
fine  square,  with  the  chaste  and  classical  edifice,  the 
National  Gallery,  which  forms  its  western  side,  pro- 
mises to  be  one  of  the  noblest  ornaments  of  the  city. 

At  an  early  hour  the  following  morning  I repaired 


LONDON  FROM  8T.  PAUL’S. 


33 


to  St.  Paul’s  Cathedral,  from  the  iron  gallery  of 
which,  at  the  base  of  the  lantern,  I had  a perfet 
bird’s  eye  view  of  London  and  its  environs,  stretching 
out  on  both  sides  of  the  Thames.  The  buildings  on 
the  Middlesex  shore  follow  the  natural  bend  of  the 
river,  and  rise,  somewhat  ainphitheatrically,  from  east 
to  west;  and  on  the  Surrey  side,  following  the  seg- 
ment of  the  circle,  as  formed  by  the  river,  penetrate 
southward  to  an  extent  varying  from  one  to  five  or 
six  miles.  From  this  gallery  }rou  have  a fine  view  of 
St.  James’s  Palace,  and  Buckingham  Palace,  the  re- 
sidence of  the  queen  ; also  of  Green,  St.  James,  Hyde 
and  Begent’s  Parks,  and  Kensington  Gardens,  the  en- 
trance to  which  is  through  Hyde  Park.  These  parks 
all  lie  on  the  west  side  of  London,  and  are  laid  out 
with  great  taste.  They  contain  upwards  of  fifteen 
hundred  acres  of  land,  and  are  surrounded  by  magni- 
ficent public  and  private  edifices.  In  addition  to  the 
above-named  parks,  are  Grosvenor  Square,  in  the 
centre  of  which  is  a gilt  equestrian  statue  of  George 
the  First ; Bussell  Square,  where  a life-size  statue  of 
Francis,  Duke  of  Bedford,  is  seen  ; Bloomsbury,  in 
which  stands  a statue  of  Charles  James  Fox  ; Caven- 
dish, containing  an  equestrian  statue  of  William, 
Duke  of  Cumberland ; Soho,  wherein  is  a statue  of 
Charles  the  Second  ; St.  James’s,  Queen’s,  and  Port- 
land, each  of  which  is  ornamented  by  a statue. 

I looked  down  from  my  position  on  the  portion  of 
this  metropolis  which  extends  from  London  Bridge  to 
Dipford — a distance  of  four  miles:  the  river  presents 
an  increasing  succession  of  vessels  of  all  burdens  and 
from  all  nations,  moored  on  either  side  of  the  shore, 
and  engaged  in  being  loaded  or  unloaded.  A fine 
view  is  also  had  from  this  gallery  of  the  various 
docks  which  lie  east  of  the  Tower,  on  the  north  side 
of  the  river,  namely  St  Katherine,  London,  East  and 
West  India.  These  docks  are  excavated  at  great 

2* 


34: 


LONDON  FKOM  ST.  PAUL’S. 


depths,  walled  up  with  brick  and  cut-stone,  and  laid 
in  water  cement.  They  are  surrounded  by  extensive 
tire-proof  warehouses,  and  communicate  with  the  ri- 
ver by  canals  and  locks.  They  will  contain  upwards 
of  one  thousand  vessels  of  the  larger  class,  besides 
smaller  craft.  The  commerce  of  London  is  so  exten- 
sive that  it  would  be  impossible  to  carry  it  on  with- 
out these  docks,  for  the  river  does  not  exceed  a quar- 
ter of  a mile  in  width. 

The  Post-office,  by  the  grandeur  and  beauty  of  its 
architecture,  makes  an  impression  upon  all  who  visit 
it.  The  Bank  of  England,  which  covers  eight  acres 
of  ground,  the  new  Exchange,  the  Custom-House,  the 
Tower,  the  Inns  of  Court,  the  churches  and  theatres. 
- are  all  seen  from  St.  Pa  il’s  to  great  advantage,  and 
are  structures  of  beauty,  deserving  particular  atten- 
tion, 

The  ancient  wall  of  the  city,  commenced  at  the  ri- 
ver, on  the  Middlesex  side,  near  the  Tower,  and  after 
winding  around,  returned  to  the  river,  a little  below 
Waterloo  Bridge,  and  then  followed  the  same  to  the 
Tower,  from  whence  it  started.  Temple  Bar  gate, 
which  was  rebuilt  in  1670,  is  the  only  gate  now  re- 
maining of  the  Corinthian  order.  It  consists  of  a 
large  central  arch,  with  a smaller  one  on  each  side, 
for  foot-passengers.  On  state  occasions  the  gate  is 
closed  against  the  official  agents  of  royalty.  Permis- 
sion to  enter  the  city  is  tlieu  asked  in  the  queen’s 
name,  of  the  Lord  Mayor,  who  issues  a special  order 
to  that  effect,  and  then  accompanies  the  royal  escort 
to  its  destination.  The  heads  of  malefactors  who  had 
been  executed  were  formerly  exhibited  on  this  gate. 

In  looking  upon  this  great  city,  one  is  naturally  led 
to  inquire  into  its  early  history.  This  is  shrouded  in 
obscurity  ; but  London  certainly  was  a stronghold  of 
the. Britons  before  the  Christian  era.  Its  Roman  de- 
signation marks  it  as  the  capital  of  a province.  Ta- 


35 


LONDON  FKOM  ST.  PAUL’S. 

citus  speaks  of  Londinum  or  Colonia.  Augustus  al- 
ludes to  it  as  a commercial  mart  of  considerable  ce- 
lebrity in  a.  d.  61.  It  was,  subsequently — in  a.  tx 
193 — noted  as  a large  and  wealthy  city. 

In  descending  from  the  position  I occupied  in  the 
gallery,  I passed  through  the  library.  This  room 
contains  a fine  collection  of  ecclesiastical  works  and 
manuscripts.  The  floor  is  curiously  inlaid  with  small, 
square  pieces  of  oak,  to  the  number  of  two  thousand 
three  hundred  and  seventy-six.  St.  Paul’s  is  situated 
on  elevated  ground  nearly  in  the  centre  of  the  metro- 
polis. It  presents  a majestic  and  classical  appear- 
ance, and  is  a lasting  memorial  of  the  genius  of  the 
great  architect,  Sir  Christopher  Wren.  The  form  of 
the  ground  plan  represents  a cross.  The  erection  of 
the  building  occupied  thirty-five  years,  and  cost  seven 
and  a half  millions  of  dollars.  The  principal  entrance 
looks  westward,  on  Ludgate  Hill,  and  is  adorned 
with  a beautiful  portico,  consisting  of  twelve  Cor- 
inthian pillars  below,  and  above  eight  composite  ones, 
in  pairs,  supporting  a triangular  pediment — on  the 
entablature  of  which  is  represented  the  conversion  of 
St.  Paul,  sculptured  in  low-relief,  and  on  the  apex  of 
the  pediment  is  a classical  figure  of  the  same  apostle, 
as  also  one  of  St.  James.  Along  the  summit  of  the 
front  are  similar  statues  of  the  Evangelists.  In  front 
of  the  portico  is  a statue  of  Queen  Anne  in  her  robes 
of  state,  holding  in  one  hand  the  emblem  of  royalty. 
There  are  many  gems  of  sculpture  in  this  cathedral, 
as  monuments  to  the  brave  and  talented.  I examined 
with  interest  those  erected  to  the  learned  Dr.  John- 
son, Howard  (the  philanthropist,)  Sir  Joshua  .Rey- 
nolds, Lords  Kelson  and  Cornwallis,  Captain  John 
Cook,  Lords  Heathfield  and  Collingwood,  General 
Packenham,  (who  fell  in  the  battle  of  New  Orleans,) 
and  many  others,  including  an  equestrian  monument 
to  Sir  Ralph  Abercrombie,  who  is  represented  in  the 


WESTMINSTER  ABBEY. 


.16 

act  of  falling  from  liis  horse,  but  is  caught  and  sup- 
ported by  an  attendant  Highlander. 

The  city  now  embraces  in  its  circumference  upwards 
of  forty  miles,  and  contains  a population  exceeding 
two  millions.  It  is,  doubtless,  the  largest,  as  it  surely 
is  the  most  magnificent,  city  in  the  world. 


CHAPTER  YI. 

WESTMINSTER  ABBEY. 

Westminster  Abbey — Its  Early  History — The  North  Transept— Dooms-Day 
Book — Jacob's  Pillow— The  Tombs  in  the  Abbey — The  Poet’s  Comer- 
Monuments — Pitt— Newton— Money  Well  fpent. 

After  devoting  all  the  time  I could  spare  to  an 
examination  of  the  numerous  objects  of  interest  in 
and  around  St.  Paul’s  Cathedral,  I drove  to  West- 
minster Abbey.  Sebert,  King  of  Essex,  is  regarded 
as  the  founder  of  this  building,  which  was  commenced 
A.  d.  605.  His  remains  were  here  deposited.  Edward 
the  Con  lessor,  however,  improved  it,  and  spared  no 
cost  in  making  it  the  most  magnificent  church,  of  the 
Style  of  Gothic  architecture,  that  had  ever  been  erec- 
ted in  his  .dominions.  It  was  dedicated  in  1065,  and 
in  the  following  37e#rhis  remains  were  interred  there, 
with  great  pomp,  and  it  has  since  received  the  remains 
of  many  of  his  successors.  Every  sovereign  of  En- 
gland, since  1065,  has  been  crowned  in  this  edifice, 
except  Edward  the  Fifth.  The  coronation  chair  is 
kept  very  carefully,  and  is  an  object  of  great  curiosity. 
This  structure  was  the  first  one  in  the  form  of  a cross 
built  in  England.  Henry  the  Third  rebuilt  the  east- 
ern portion  in  a style  of  great  magnificence,  and,  in 
1503,  Henry  the  Seventh  added  the  .chape),  which, 
for  elegance  and  richness  of  ornament,  may  challenge 
competition  with  the  most  famous  in  the  world. 


WESTMINSTER  ABBEY. 


37 


The  front  elevation  of  the  north  transept  of  the 
Abbey  presents  an  example  of  that  elegant,  yet  fanci- 
ful display,  which  belongs  solely  to  this  style  of  archi- 
tecture. Its  imposing  effect  is  derived  from  its  im- 
mense buttress,  its  elevated  pinnacles,  and  its  Rose  or 
St.  Catherine  wheel-window,  which  forms  a circle  of 
thirty-two  feet  in  diameter.  The  Dooms-Day  Book, 
compiled  in  the  eleventh  century,  and  written  on  vel- 
lum, is  deposited  in  the  Cloisters  Chapel  House.  The 
far-famed  stone,  brought  from  Scotland  by  Edward 
the  First,  is  carefully  preserved  in  this  edifice.  Many 
traditions  are  connected  with  it.  The  old  legends 
affirm  that  it  formed  Jacob’s  pillow  on  the  memorable 
night  when  he  saw  the  vision  of  a ladder  reaching  to 
heaven.  Sir  James  Ware  states  that  it  was  brought 
into  Ireland  by  a colony  of  the  Tuatlia  de  Danans, 
and  that  it  had  the  property  of  issuing  sounds  resem- 
bling thunder.  It  is  said  that  Fergus,  first  King  of 
Scotland,  brought  it  with  him  from  Ireland,  and  was 
crowned  upon  it  330  years  before  Christ. 

The  principal  attraction  of  Westminster  Abbey  to 
its  visitors,  is  the  numerous  tombs  it  contains.  Here 
lie  the  mouldering  remains  of  kings,  queens,  nobles, 
statesmen,  warriors,  orators,  poets  and  all  the  most  il 
lustrious  persons  in  England’s  history.  A description 
of  the  various  monuments  in  the  . \bbey  fills  many 
volumes  ; indeed,  a large  work  with  illustrations  may 
be  found  in  several  of  the  public  libraries  in  the 
United  Slates.  The  tomb  of  Henry  the  Seventh,  and 
his  wife  Elizabeth,  is  deserving  of  particular  notice. 
It  was  erected  at  vast  expense,  by  Pietro  Lonego,  and 
the  figures  are  of  cast  copper,  once  resplendent  with 
gilding;  the  pedestal,  of  black  marble,  variously  or- 
namented : altogether  forming  a magniticent  monu- 
ment. Among  others  is  one  to  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots, 
one  to  the  Countess  of  Richmond,  and  one  to  Queen 
Elizabeth.  In  the  Chapel  of  Edward  the  Confessor 


38 


WESTMINSTER  ABBEY. 


stands  the  venerable  shrine  to  St.  Edward,  much  de- 
faced by  time.  There  is,  in  the  Chapel  of  St.  John 
and  St.  Michael,  a remarkably  fine  monument  to  the 
memory  of  the  Lady  Nightingale.  In  “The  Poets’ 
Corner,”  are  monuments  erected  to  Chaucer,  Dryden, 
Cowley,  Ben  Jonson,  Spenser,  Milton,  Butler,  Gray, 
Prior,  and  others.  The  one  erected  to  Shakspeare  is 
exceedingly  chaste  and  appropriate.  The  attitude, 
shape,  carriage  and  dress  of  the  figure,  are  finely  ex- 
ecuted. On  the  pedestal  are  the  heads  of  Henry  the 
Fifth,  Richard  the  Third,  and  Elizabeth — personages 
ably  described  in  his  plays.  The  scroll  exhibits  his 
lines  from  the  “ Tempest,”  on  the  mutability  of  hu- 
man affairs. 

Over  the  great  west  door  is  a monument  to  Wil- 
liam Pitt,  who  is  represented  in  his  robes  of  state. 
On  one  side  appears  History  recording  the  acts  of  his 
administration,  while  on  the  other  Anarchy  lies 
chained  at  his  feet.  At  the  entrance  of  the  choir  is 
a monument  to  Sir  Isaac  Newton.  He  is  represented 
in  a recumbent  position,  resting  his  arm  on  four  folios, 
ai)d  pointing  to  a scroll  supported  by  cherubims 
Above  is  a globe  projecting  from  a pyramid.  On  the 
globe  sits  the  figure  of  Astronomy,  with  her  book 
closed.  Beneath  is  a bas-relief  whereon  are  designed 
the  various  labors  in  which  he  employed  his  time. 
The  whole  is  rich  in  thought  and  execution.  Beauti- 
ful structures  of  the  above  described  character  are 
found  wherever  you  go  in  and  about  London  ; and,  in 
my  judgment  money  has  been  well  expended  in  this 
way  ; for  these  things  serve  to  keep  alive  in  the  breasts 
of  Englishmen  the  invaluable  services  of  those  whose 
names  they  commemorate. 


NATIONAL  AND  ROYAL  ACADEMY. 


39 


CHAPTER  VII. 

NATIONAL  AND  ROYAL  ACADEMY. 

Establishment  of  the  National  Gallery — Its  Location — Pictures — Sehastiano’s 
Lazarus — Its  Anatomical  Correctness. 


Most  of  die  governments  upon  the  continent  have, 
for  centuries,  appropriated  large  sums  of  money  for 
the  erection  of  stately  and  extensive  edifices  for  the 
reception  of  the  works  of  the  old  masters  and  others, 
whilst  Great  Britain  was  without  an  institution  of  this 
character  down  to  the  22d  of  June,  1822.  Its  estab- 
lishment at  that  time  was  owing  to  the  following  cir- 
cumstance: Isaac  Angerstein,  one  of  the  most  con- 
spicuous and  liberal  merchants  of  London,  collected, 
during  his  life,  an  extensive  gallery  of  pictures  by 
ancient  and  modern  artists.  He  was  aided  in  the 
collection  of  them  by  Sir  Thomas  Lawrence.  After 
his  death  they  were  advertised  for  sale,  when  the 
Earl  of  Liverpool,  then  first  Lord  of  the  Treasury, 
brought  the  matter  before  Parliament,  and  the  sum 
of  fifty-seven  thousand  pounds  sterling  was  appropri- 
ated for  their  purchase  : since  which  time  many  other 
pictures  have  been  added  to  this  collection.  In  1832 
the  sum  of  fifty  thousand  pounds  sterling  was  voted 
by  Parliament  for  the  erection  of  the  National  Gal- 
lery, and  three  years  after  a further  sum  appropriated 
to  be  applied  to  the  same  object. 

The  site  of  this  building  is,  perhaps,  the  finest  that 
could  have  been  selected  in  the  metropolis.  It  fronts 
on  Trafalgar  Square,  commanding  a view  of  the 
square  itself,  of  the  monument  erected  to  Lord  Nel- 
son, and  the  broad  vista  of  Parliament  and  White 
Hail  streets.  The  building  consists  of  a centre  and 


4:0 


NATIONAL  AND  ROYAL  ACADEMY. 


two  wings,  the  length  being  four  hundred  and  sixteen 
feet,  and  its  greatest  breadth  fifty-six.  The  main 
feature  of  the  building  is  the  central  portico,  adorned 
with  Corinthian  columns.  The  National  Gallery 
occupies  the  western  wing  and  the  Royal  Academy 
the  eastern.  In  this  edifice  are  several  pictures  by 
Raphael,  Titian,  Paul  Veronese,  Poussin,  Rubens, 
Rembrandt,  VanDyck,  DiVinci,  Salvator,  Murillo, 
besides  many  others.  It  is  seldom  that  persons  are 
favorably  impressed  with  pictures  at  first  sight,  ow- 
ing to  a want  of  capacity  fully  to  appreciate  their 
merit ; but  these  works  were  so  far  superior  in  every 
respect  to  any  pictures  I had  ever  seen  before,  that  I 
was  particularly  struck  with  their  excellence.  Pic- 
tures must  be  studied  as  attentively  as  books  before 
they  can  be  thoroughly  understood,  or  the  principles 
of  art  so  established  in  the  mind  as  to  render  works 
which  are  truly  beautiful  the  object  of  admiration. 
One  of  the  most  important  pictures  in  this  collection 
is  the  “ Lazarus,”  by  Sebastiano  del  Piombo.  It  is 
declared  to  be  the  second  best  picture  in  the  world  ; 
the  artist  received  some  assistance  from  Michael 
Angelo,  who,  being  jealous  of  Raphael,  encouraged 
Sebastiano  to  undertake  the  work,  in  competition  of 
his  rival’s  celebrated  picture  of  the  ‘‘Transfigura- 
tion.” It  is  supposed  that  Michael  Angelo,  who  had 
a profound  knowledge  of  anatomical  details  of  the 
human  frame,  executed  the  design  and  groupings  of 
the  figures.  The  body  of  Lazarus  displays  this  know- 
ledge in  a wonderful  degree — the  play  of  the  muscles 
in  action,  and  the  precision  with  which  they  are  de- 
fined, are  extraordinary.  This  picture  cost  the  gov- 
ernment ten  thousand  pounds  sterling,  and  many  of 
the  others  in  the  gallery  cost  from  three  to  live  thou- 
sand pounds  sterling  each.  No  one  should  visit  Lon- 
don without  devoting  one  day,  at  least,  to  viewing 
the  pictures  in  these  exhibition  rooms. 


RAMBLE  THROUGH  HAMPTON  COURT. 


41 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

RAMBLE  THROUGH  HAMPTON  COURT. 

Richmond — Thomson,  the  Poet — Cardinal  Wolsey — Henry  VIT — Victoria’s 
Residences— Hampton  Court — Portraits— Raffalle’s  Cartoons — The  Cham- 
bers— The  Tapestry — View  from  the  Palace— The  Park — Return  to  London. 

I drove  to-day  to  Hampton  Court,  and  stopped  on 
the  way  at  the  village  of  Richmond,  situated  on  the 
Surrey  side  of  the  Thames,  nine  miles  from  London, 
w ich  is  a place  of  much  resort  for  the  fashionable  people 
of  the  great  metropolis.  Many  noble  residences  stud 
the  hill  and  the  surrounding  country,  and  a fine  stone 
bridge  crosses  the  river  at  this  point.  The  village  it- 
self is  adorned  with  a grand  park,  containing  upward 
of  twenty-five  hundred  acres,  affording  delightful 
walks  and  drives  to  its  visitors. 

Thomson,  the  poet,  resided  here,  and  at  his  death 
was  buried  in  the  parish  church  : the  spot  where  he 
lies  is  marked  by  a brass  tablet,  with  an  inscription 
to  his  memory,  erected  by  the  Earl  of  Buear.  The 
drive  from  Richmond  to  Hampton  Court  is  one  of  in- 
terest. The  palace  at  this  place  was  erected  by  Car- 
dinal Wolsey.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a parallelogram, 
and  is  a magnificent  structure.  Although  Wolsey 
was  then  in  the  height  of  his  power,  we  are  informed 
by  historians  that  he  did  not  escape  the  envy  of  the 
people  nor  the  lash  of  the  satirist.  Skelton,  and  other 
writers  of  that  period,  published  some  severe  articles 
against  him  ; and  when  the  palace  was  finished  it 
excited  great  envy  at  court— so  much  so,  that  King 
Henry  the  Eighth,  in  1525,  questioned  the  cardinal  as 
to  his  intention  in  building  a mansion  that  far  sur- 
passed all  of  the  royal  places  in  England.  To  which 


42 


RAMBLE  THROUGH  HAMPTON  COURT. 


Wolsey,  with  great  presence  of  mind,  replied  : — That 
he  was  only  trying  to  construct  a residence  worthy  of 
so  great  a monarch,  and  that  Hampton  Court  Palace 
was  the  property  of  King  Henry  the  Eighth. 

This  palace  became  the  private  residence  of  King 
Henry,  and  during  his  reign  scenes  of  festivity  were 
here  exhibited  exceeding  anything  of  the  kind  that 
had  ever  before  taken  place.  It  was  used  as  the  re- 
sidence of  the  several  royal  families  from  that  period 
to  the  reign  of  George  the  Third.  Queen  Victoria 
lias  never  made  it  her  residence.  She  has  several 
royal  palaces  at  her  disposal,  namely : — Buckingham 
Palace,  her  city  residence,  on  which  about  three  mil- 
lions of  dollars  have  been  expended  in  its  construction, 
is  magnificent,  and  its  furniture  is  the  most  costly 
that  modern  art  can  produce  ; Windsor  Castle,  situ- 
ated a few  miles  above  Hampton  Court,  her  favorite 
country  residence,  is  the  largest,  if  not  the  most 
handsomely  finished,  palace  in  her  kingdom.  Be- 
sides these  she  has  St.  James  Palace,  and  Brighton, 
which,  as  well  as  the  others, ^refurnished  and  kept  in 
repair  at  the  public  expense. 

The  palace  at  Hampton  Court  is  now  celebrated 
chiefly  on  account  of  the  numerous  paintings,  num- 
bering more  than  one  thousand  which  it  contains. 
Among  them  are  to  be  seen  all  the  royal  physiogno- 
mies and  full-length  portraits  of  the  ladies  of  the 
court  of  the  several  periods.  These  paintings  were 
executed  by  the  most  distinguished  artists.  Here  also 
are  portraits  of  England’s  celebrated  men,  embracing 
officers  of  the  army  and  navy,  statesmen,  artists, 
poets,  and  men  of  science.  My  chief  object  in  visit 
ing  this  ancient  palace  was  to  see  the  cartoons  of  Haf- 
falle,  which  are  the  noblest  works  of  art?  ever  pro- 
duced by  man.  The  history  of  these  designs,  subse- 
quent to  their  completion,  is  extraordinary.  Battalia 
was  engaged  by  Leo  X.  to  design  this  series  of  sub* 


RAMBLE  THROUGH  HAMPTON  COURT. 


43 


jects,  taken  from  the  life  of  our  Saviour  and  the  Acts 
of  the  Apostles,  as  patterns  for  tapestry  to  decorate 
the  papal  palace.  Barnard  Yan  Orloy  was  employed 
to  superintend' the  weaving  after  the  designs;  and  it 
is  somewhat  surprising  that  when  the  tapestry  was 
completed  the  cartoons  were  not  reclaimed  or  sent 
back  to  Rome  ; they  were  thrown  aside  by  Yan  Or 
loy,  as  of  no  value,  and  left  to  moulder  and  decay 
among  the  lumber  of  the  manufactory.  From  this 
they  were,  on  the  recommendation  of  the  distinguished 
artist  Rubens,  purchased  by  Charles  I.,  and  brought 
to  England,  where  they  remained  for  a long  time  in 
neglect.  Charles  II.  sent  them  to  be  copied  in  tapes 
try,  and  while  in  the  manufactory  they  met  with  nt 
better  attention  than  when  at  Brussels,,  and  were,  in- 
deed, considerably  damaged.  William  Cook,  an  ar- 
tist of  much  merit,  under  whose  charge  they  were, 
repaired  and  restored  them  to  their  original  appear- 
ance, and  King  William  III.  fitted  up  the  present  gal- 
lery for  their  reception.. 

There  were  twenty -five  cartoons  in  all,  executed  by 
Raffalle,  of  which  seven  are  now  here,  viz  : — “ Paul 
Preaching  at  Athens;”  “The  Death  of  Ananias;” 
“Elymas  the  Sorcerer  struck  with  Blindness  ;”  “Christ 
Delivering  the  Keys  to  Peter;”  “The  Sacrifice  of 
Lystra;”  “The  Apostles  Healing  in  the  Temple,” 
and  “The  Miraculous  Draught  of  Fishes.”  These 
have  been  engraved  by  several  distinguished  artists. 

The  grand  chamber  is  a magnificent  room,  and  con- 
tains muskets,  helmets,  swords,  etc.,  disposed  in  various 
figures  upon  the  wall,  and  all  in  the  finest  order. 
From  this  apartment  we  passed  through  the  king’s 
first  and  second  presence  chambers,  audience- room, 
and  dining-hall,  into  King  William  the  Thircf’s  bed- 
chamber, which  contains  the  state  bed  of  Queen 
Charlotte,  covered  with  rich  and  beautifully  embroid- 
ered needlework. 


44 


RAMBLE  THROUGH  HAMPTON  COURT. 


We  visited  the  great  Gothic  Hall,  designed  by 
Wolsey,  and  finished  by  Henry  the  Eighth,  when 
Anna  Boleyn  was  in  the  height  of  favor.  It  was 
used  as  a theatre  during  the  reigns  of  Queen  Eliza- 
beth and  Janies  the  First;  and  there  is  a tradition 
that  some  of  Shakspeare’s  plays  were  first  acted  in 
this  hall.  The  walls  of  this  room  are  hun^  with  ta- 
pestry,  in  eight  compartments:  the  subject  is  the 
story  of  Abraham. 

The  view  from  this  palace — embracing  as  it  does  the 
public  grounds,  the  fine  park  with  its  avenue  of  elms, 
reaching  in  a straight  line  to  the  banks  of  the  Tiiames 
and  Kingston,  the  various  private  gardens,  the  maze 
and  the  wilderness, — is  euchautingly  beautiful.  The 
trees  in  the  wilderness  were  planted  l>y  King  William 
the  Third,  with  a view  of  hiding  the  irregularities  in 
the  northern  side  of  the  palace.  There  were  thou- 
sands of  well-dressed  persons  of  both  sexes  wander- 
ing through  the  grounds,  enjoying  this  charming  pro- 
menade. Children  were  running  about  and  playing, 
delighted  with  the  opportunity  thus  afforded  them  of 
recreation. 

I returned  to  London  before  sunset,  by  a small 
steamboat,  and  had  an  excellent  view  of  the  numer- 
ous country  seats  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  Thames. 
In  passing  Richmond  by  water,  the  view  of  it  was  so 
pleasing  that  nothing  could  induce  me  to  leave  the 
deck  until  I lost  sight  of  it  in  the  distance. 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  OLDEN  TIME. 


45 


CHAPTER  IX. 

ENGLAND  IN  THE  OLDEN  TIME. 

The  Old  and  New  World— England's  Illustrious  Men— Its  Agriculture,  Climate 
and  Productions -Its  Manufactures  in  King  .1  aines  the  Ist’s  time--Com- 
merce  of  the  Country — James  II.— Woolen  Cloths. 

I have  already  been  more  than  repaid  for  the  time 
I have  devoted  in  my  visit  to  this  country.  Centu- 
ries ag>,  my  ancestors  resided  here,  from  whence 
they  emigrated  to  the  Hew  World,  then  a desolate 
wilderness,  and  the  abode  of  savages.  I have  ex- 
amined with  interest  the  improvements  that  have  been 
made  here  during  centuries,  and  the  changes  which 
have  been  effected  from  time  to  time,  in  the  cultiva- 
tion of  the  soil,  the  building  of  towns  and  cities,  the 
construction  of  highways,  bridges,  railroads,  canals, 
and  other  facilities  for  the  transportation  of  the  pro- 
duce of  the  country. 

I have  observed  with  satisfaction  that  the  greatest 
attention  has  been  bestowed  by  the  government  in 
the  advancement  of  the  agricultural,  manufacturing, 
and  commercial  interests  of  this  country,  and  that  it 
honors  the  host  of  illustrious  men,  eminently  distin- 
guished for  their  learning,  their  wisdom,  their  scient- 
ific attainments,  and  their  devotion  to  the  sacred 
cause  of  religion  who  were  born  here. 

Limited  as  this  country  is  in  point  of  territory,  it 
has  become  under  the  hand  of  the  agriculturist,  the 
garden  of  the  world.  The  climate  is  rather  rigorous 
and  ungenial,  and  subject  to  sudden  and  frequent 
changes.  Its  atmosphere,  at  times  cold  and  damp,  is 
not,  however,  liable  to  great  extremes  of  either  heat 
or  cold.  Its  mines  and  quarries  afford  a constant  sup* 


46 


ENGLAND  IN  THE  OLDEN  TIME. 


ply  of  valuable  productions.  Iron,  tin,  and  coal  are 
found  in  great  abundance,  and  although  the  mines 
have  been  worked  for  centuries,  they  still  seem  inex- 
haustible. 

The  manufactures,  which  are  very  large,  have  chiefly 
contributed  to  the  nation’s  wealth  and  power.  It  is 
curious  to  look  into  the  history  of  their  rise  and  pro- 
gress, and  the  wonderful  increase  of  the  country’s 
commerce.  In  the  reign  of  Queen  Elizabeth  the 
state  of  the  English  manufactures  was  very  low.  The 
queen,  who  was  sensible  how  much  the  defence  of  the 
kingdom  depended  on  its  naval  power,  was  desirous 
of  encouraging  commerce  and  navigation,  but  the 
monopolies  granted  under  her  reign  tended  to  extin- 
guish all  domestic  industry,  which  is  in  a great  mea- 
sure the  foundation  of  a foreign  trade. 

A catalogue  of  the  manufactures  of  the  kingdom, 
in  the  reign  of  King  James  I.,  a.  d.,  1625,  would  ap- 
pear contemptible  in  comparison  with  those  which 
flourish  among  them  at  present.  Most  of  the  elabor- 
ate and  curious  arts  were  only  cultivated  abroad — 
principally  in  Italy.  Nine-tenths  of  the  commerce  of 
England  then  consisted  in  woolen  goods.  Most  of 
the  cloth  was  exported  in  an  unfinished  state,  and 
dyed  and  dressed  by  the  Dutch,  who  gained  seven 
hundred  thousand  pounds  a year  by  this  alone.  In 
so  lir tie  credit  was  the  fine  English  cloth  among  the 
English  people,  that  the  king  was  obliged  to  seek  ex- 
pedients to  cause  the  people  of  fashion  to  wear  it. 
The  manufacture  of  fine  linen  was  totally  unknown 
among  them,  and  the  silk  manufacture  had  no  footing, 
liy  the  king’s  direction  mulberry-trees  were  planted, 
and  the  silk  worm  introduced,  but  the  climate  seemed 
unfavorable  to. the  success  of  this  project. 

The  commerce  of  the  country  having  become  greatly 
embarrassed  by  the  grants  to  exclusive  companies,  as 
already  remarked,  the  system  was  finally  broken  up, 


GOODWOOD  RACES. 


47 


and  it  was  soon  found  that  the  manufactures  were 
thereby  placed  on  a much  better  footing.  In  the 
reign  of  James  II.,  1689,  several  manufactures  of 
brass,  iron,  silk,  glass,  and  paper  were  established. 
The  Duke  of  Buckingham  introduced  from  Yenice 
the  manufacture  of  glass  and  crystal.  It  was  about 
this  time  that  the  dyeing  of  woolen  cloth  was  intro- 
duced. This  was  at  the  period  when  the  low  countries 
were  threatened  with  a French  conquest,  and  many 
of  the  manufacturers,  apprehending  total  ruin,  emi- 
grated to  England  with  their  operatives.  Among  the 
most  eminent  was  Mr.  Brown,  a man  of  great  wealth, 
and  the  most  extensive  manufacturer  of  Flanders. 
The  government  was  induced  to  encourage  such  emi- 
gration, which  step,  together  with  the  increase  of  ils 
commerce,  has  placed  England  in  the  front  rank 
among  the  manufacturing  nations  of  the  earth,  and, 
consequently,  greatly  added  to  her  wealth  and  power. 


CHAPTER  X. 


GOODWOOD  RACES. 


South  Downs  Chichester— The  Race  Course— Enthusiasm  of  the  Spectators 
—The  Stand— Noblemen  and  Gipsies  -Gamblers  and  Jagglers — Roman 
Encampment  -Beautiful  View-  On  the  Road. 


I left  London  with  a pleasant  party,  for  the  pur- 
pose of  attending  the  u Goodwood”  races,  at  Chiches- 
ter. We  started  on  the  day  preceeding  the  races, 
passing  on  our  way  through  that  district  of  country 
called  the  South  Downs,  from  whence  come  the  cele- 
brated breed  of  sheep  of  that  name,  distinguished  by 
their  black  nose  and  feet.  Their  wool  is  of  a super- 
ior quality,  as  regards  fineness  and  length  ; and,  it  is 
said,  the  yield  is  much  greater  than  that  of  the  ordi 


GOODWOOD  RACES. 


48 

nary  sheep.  The  morning  fallowing  our  arrival  we 
passed  in  examining  the  old  church  at  Chichester, 
which  was  erected  in  the  year  1100.  Afterward  we 
were  conveyed  to  the  race  course,  which  is  located  on 
the  estate  of  the  Duke  of  Richmond. 

The  course  is  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above 
tide  water,  and  appeared  to  me  to  have  been  prepared 
at  great  expense,  for  it  is  cut  down  about  ten  feet, 
leaving  a ridge  of  ground  of  that  height,  extending 
on  one  side  of  the  course,  of  at  least  three  quarters 
of  a mile  long,  with  a wood  coming  up  to  its  edge, 
which  affords  a comfortable  and  desirable  shade  for 
the  spectators.  Under  the  stately  trees  were  several 
tents  and  small  huts,  placed  on  wheels,  in  order  to  he 
moved  from  place  to  place  with  little  trouble.  In 
these  a variety  of  articles  were  vended  by  the  occu- 
pants. Below  the  ridge,  and  between  it  and  the  race 
course  is  a level  plain  extending  the  length  of  the 
ridge,  and  about  one  hundred  and  twenty -five  feet  in 
width,  which  was  occupied  by  carriages  of  all  de- 
scriptions, filled  with  well-dressed  people  of  both 
sexes.  Beyond  this,  and  separated  from  it  by  a light 
fence,  is  the  course  itself,  at  least  two  hundred  feet 
wide.  At  the  extreme  end  of  the  track  there  is  a low 
hill,  around  which  tiie  course  runs,  and  high  enough  . 
to  conceai  the  horses  from  the  spectators.  This  is  a 
capital  idea,  and  adds  greatly  to  the  interest  of  the 
race  ; for,  wl\en  the  horses  start  from  the  stand,  every 
eye  is  fixed  upon  them,  until  they  pass  behind  the 
hill,  when,  for  a short  time,  the  spectators  are  left  in 
doubt  as  to  the  progress  of  their  favorites.  Upon 
the  horses  gaining  the  straight  course  again,  and 
coming  once  more  in  sight,  great  is  the  shouting  and 
wonderful  the  excitement  which  ensues.  Cries  of  the 
red  is  ahead,  the  yellow  has  fallen  back,  or  the  blue 
is  gaining,  in  allusion  to  the  colors  worn  by  the  riders, 
liii  the  air  on  every  side,  and  similar  cries  are  kept 


GOODWOOD  RACES. 


49 


\ 

up,  the  spectators  growing  wild  with  pleasurable  ex- 
citement, until  the  horses  reach  the  winning  post 
from  whence  they  started. 

The  stand  itself  is  a large,  well  built  stone  mansion, 
capable  of  accommodating  two  thousand  persons. 
There  is  a beautiful  saloon  within  it,  fitted  up  for  the 
ladies,  from  the  windows  of  which  a fine  view  of  the 
course  is  obtained. 

There  were  many  thousands  of  spectators  present 
on  this  occasion,  including  all  ranks  and  classes,  from 
tiie  nobility  down  to  the  wandering  gipsies.  I had  a 
favorable  opportunity  of  viewing  the  titled  aristo- 
cracy as  they  drove  up  to  the  stand  in  their  state  car- 
riages, drawn  by  well  groomed  horses.  Their  drivers 
and  outriders  were  clad  in  liveries  of  various  kinds. 
The  ladies  were  richly  attired,  and  the  gentlemen  also 
had  not  failed  in  their  attention  to  the  toilette.  My 
friend,  who  was  acquainted  with  the  most  of  the  dis- 
tinguished persons  present,  pointed  them  out  to  me  by 
name,  as  they  alighted  from  their  carriages.  After 
the  greater  part  of  them  had  assembled  we  passed 
through  the  saloon,  obtaining  another  and  more  agree- 
able view  of  all  present. 

As  soon  as  the  first  heat  was  run  the  course  was 
instantly  filled  by  the  crowd,  some  to  examine  the 
horses,  and  others  to  witness  the  feats  of  jugglers,  or 
those  engaged  in  ground  and  lofty  tumbling,  which 
performances,  usual  on  like  occasions,  were  being  en- 
acted. Nor  were  a goodly  number  of  thimble-rig- 
gers, with  their  associates,  lacking  in  the  assembly. 
In  walking  around  the  course,  it  seemed  to  me  that 
all  were  enjoying  themselves,  and  found  great  delight 
in  this  exciting  and,  I think  I may  add,  rational 
amusement. 

During  the  day  I visited  the  remains  of  an  old  Ro- 
man encampment,  situated  on  a hill  side,  overlooking 
the  race  ground,  and  within  a short  distance  of  it. 

3 


50 


GOODWOOD  RACES. 


From  this  elevation  the  view  is  magnificent,  embra- 
cing a district  of  country  many  miles  in  circuit,  ex- 
tending on  the  south  as  far  as  the  British  Channel ; 
and  on  the  southwest  to  the  arm  of  the  sea — separa- 
ting the  Isle  of  Wight  from  the  main  land — and  in- 
cluding the  greater  part  of  the  island  itself. 

The  numerous  parks,  many  of  them  enclosed  with 
hedge  fences  ; the  noble  edifices  and  towns  which 
are  within  sight,  tend  to  make  up  a grand  and  impos- 
ing picture.  Turning  from  this  beautiful  view  to  the 
race  course  itself,  I gazed,  with  pleasure,  upon  the 
thousands  assembled  there,  all  of  whom  were  attired 
in  their  richest  costumes,  and  many  of  them,  mem- 
bers of  the  most  distinguished  families  of  the  land. 
The  scene  was  one  of  such  magnitude  that  it  would 
have  defied  the  skill  of  the  most  noted  artist  to  have 
given  a correct  picture  of  it. 

On  the  last  day  of  the  races  we  left  the  course 
some  time  before  sundown,  for  London.  We  found 
the  highways,  for  several  miles,  lined  with  the  coun- 
try people,  who  gathered  by  the  roadside  to  obtain  a 
view  ot  the  nobility  and  gentry  as  they  passed  along 
in  their  splendid  carriages.  Whenever  any  person  of 
marked  distinction  went  by,  the  people  cheered,  and 
exhibited  other  evidences  of  their  gratification. 

Many  of  the  wealthy  and  titled,  as  they  rode  by 
threw  money  upon  the  ground  for  the  children  to 
scramble  after,  thus  seeking  to  evince  their  apprecia- 
tion of  the  enthusiasm  with  which  they  were  greeted. 
All  classes  seemed  to  be  more  or  less  excited  by  the 
great  races  which  had  just  taken  place.  I was  parti- 
cularly struck  by  the  deference  and  respect  which 
the  people  paid  to  those  holding  official  and  noble 
positions.  It  was  altogether  a grand  display,  and  I 
cannot  decide  which  most  to  admire,  the  orderly  be- 
havior of  the  masses  on  the  race  course,  or  the  enthu- 
siasm of  the  sturdy  farmers  and  laborers,  with  their 


HYDE  PARK  AND  A REVIEW. 


51 


families,  who  waited  on  the  road  side  for  hours  to 
witness  and  greet  the  returning  thousands  who  went 
bJ- 


CHAPTER  XI. 

HYDE  PARK  AND  A REVIEW. 

The  Frequenters  of  the  Park — Their  Enjoyments — A Reminiscence — A Review 
— 1843  and  1840 — The  Iron  Duke — On  the  Field  and  in  Parliament — Thurlow 
Weed — The  Duke’s  Monument  in  St.  Paul’s. 

In  one  of  my  rambles  about  London  I visited  Hyde 
Park  on  a bright  and  beautiful  day,  and  mingled  with 
the  throng  of  gay  visitors  who  tilled  that  fashionable 
place  of  resort.  The  animated  mid  constantly  chang- 
ing assemblage  was  made  up  of  thousands  of  persons 
of  both  sexes,  congregated  in  pursuit,  of  pleasure  and 
healthful  exercise.  The  tout  ensemble  presented  was 
of  the  most  brilliant  description.  Some  of  the  com- 
pany were  reclining  in  their  luxurious  carriages,  sur- 
rounded by  servants  in  livery  ; others  were  mounted 
on  the  full  blooded  horses  of  the  country,  and  still 
others  were  leisurely  wandering  through  the  finely 
gravelled  walks,  exclusively  devoted  to  the  use  of  pe- 
destrians. All  alike  appeared  equally  happy  and  de- 
lighted with  the  opportunity  of  breathing  the  pure 
air  of  this  delightful  season.  Such  occasions  are 
calculated  to  render  most  joyous  all  who  participate 
in  them,  and  restore  the  drooping  spirits  of  the  unfor- 
tunate, and  cause  them  for  a while  to  forget  the  sor- 
row and  troubles  of  life.  I do  not  believe  that  there 
is  a place  in  any  part  of  the  world  where  a more 
brilliant  spectacle  of  a similar  character  can  be  seen. 

While  meditating  upon  the  great  display  of  wealth, 
beauty,  and  rank  which  was  observable  around  me  in 
this  very  charming  Park,  which  has  long  been  the 


52 


II Y DIC  PARK  AND  A REVIEW. 


pride  and  admiration  of  the  metropolis,  it  brought  to 
my  mind  the  remembrance  of  a military  parade  and 
review  of  the  Cold  Stream  Guards,  which  I witnessed 
in  company  with  my  valued  companion  in  arms,  John 
Peck,  Esq.,  of  the  city  of  New  York,  in  the  same 
place  in  1843,  when  on  a former  visit  to  London. 
The  Iron  Duke,  the  great  Wellington  himself,  re- 
viewed the  regiment.  He  was  accompanied  by  the 
Xing  of  Hanover,  the  Duke  of  Cambridge,  and  many 
other  distinguished  personages.  The  daughter  of  the 
Duke  of  Cambridge  rode  beside  the  Duke  of  Wel- 
lington, mounted  on  a beautiful  horse,  perfectly  bro- 
ken and  full  blooded.  I was  the  more  interested  in 
witnessing  this  review  than  I otherwise  would  have 
been,  for  the  reason  that  1 was  present,  in  1840,  on 
the  Plains  of  Abraham,  in  Canada,  with  Henry  Van 
Der  Lyn,  Esq.,  of  Oxford,  N.  Y.,  a lawyer  of  much 
eminence  aud  an  old  and  esteemed  friend  of  many 
years’  standing,  and  with  whom  I have  made  many 
journeys  through  the  United  States,  when  this  same 
regiment  was  reviewed.  The  occasion  was  the  cele- 
bration of  the  anniversary  of  the  battle  of  Waterloo, 
where  Wellington  achieved  a victory  over  the  great- 
est general  of  his  day,  and  gained  for  himself  a dis- 
tinguished reputation  for  courageous  valor  and  mili- 
tary skill.  It  was,  too,  this  very  regiment,  headed 
by  Gdonel  McDonald,  its  brave  commander,  that 
covered  itself  with  glory  on  that  ever  momentous 
day. 

As  the  great  Duke  and  his  party,  after  the  review, 
moved  through  the  Park  on  a slow  walk,  the  thou- 
sands of  spectators  who  lined  the  route  on  each  side, 
cheered  the  hero  at  every  step,  until  he  reached  the 
gate  of  his  own  residence. 

At  that  period  there  was  no  man  in  England  more 
honored  and  respected  than  that  gallant  chieftain, 
and  none  who  so  well  deserved  the  laurel  wreath  of 


HYDE  PARK  AND  A REVIEW. 


53 


glory  or  the  honest  song  of  praise.  As  a soldier  he 
was  unrivalled,  as  a statesman  he  had  but  few  equals, 
and  as  an  English  nobleman  there  was  none  truer- 
hearted,  or  who  was  a greater  favorite  with  liis  coun- 
trymen. 

I was  fortunate  in  being  present  a few  days  after 
the  review,  in  the  House  of  Lords,  when  the  Duke 
made  a capital  speech  upon  the  then  absorbing  ques- 
tion of  the  day,  which  was  being  agitated  by  the  Irish 
repealers.  He  was  followed  by  Lord  Brougham, 
Lord  Palmerston  and  others.  Shortly  after  the  debate 
closed,  I had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  in  the  lobby  of 
the  House  Mr.  Thurlow  Weed,  the  distinguished  edi- 
tor of  the  Albany  Evening  Journal,  who  had  been 
listening  to  the  same  debate,  seated  at  a short  distance 
from  the  place  I occupied.  Our  meeting  was  most 
cordial,  and  exceedingly  agreeable  to  me. 

Wellington’s  noble  form  will  never  again  be  seen 
by  me,  as  it  was  on  that  bright  day  in  June,  eighteen 
years  ago,  when  he  reviewed  the  troops  in  the  Park, 
nor  his  voice  heard  as  it  was  on  that  other  occasion 
within  the  walls  of  the  House  of  Lords.  His  mortal 
remains  now  lie  entombed  under  a beautiful  and 
costly  monument,  erected  by  his  country,  in  the  cript 
of  6t.  Paul’s  Church.  I visited  his  tomb  a few  days 
since,  and  learned,  with  no  little  satisfaction,  that  few 
strangers  came  to  London,  who  failed  to  pay  a similar 
mark  of  respect  to  the  memory  ot'  the  illustrious  dead. 
Not  only  does  his  own  land,  and  the  world  at  large, 
venerate  his  name  for  his  goodness,  but  they  regard 
him  as  the  most  successful  warrior  of  his  time,  and 
one  of  the  noblest  spirits,  for  whom  his  country  has 
ever  been  called  upon  to  mourn. 


64 


LONDON  TO  OSTEND. 


CHAPTER  XII. 

LONDON  TO  OSTEND. 

The  Ostend  Steamer-  Running  Into  Harbor—  Ostend— Early  History  The 
Fortress-  Bathing  House— Casino  -Light  House  -Bird’s  Eye  Views — 
Mountain  Girdle — Harvest — Its  Population  - Going  to  Labor — Early 
Morning — Its  Boundaries — Battle  field  -Waterloo— The  Government — 
Senators. 

I left  London  for  Ostend,  in  a fine  steamer.  The 
average  time  occupied  in  maldng  the  passage,  is  fifteen 
hours,  seven  of  which  are  taken  up  in  descending  the 
Thames.  The  weather  was  remarkably  pleasant  when 
we  started,  and  we  had  every  prospect  of  an  agreeable 
voyage ; but  before  nightfall,  the  wind  had  increased 
to  a gale,  and  the  waves  rolled  high.  Our  vessel 
pitched  about  at  a frightful  rate,  and  most  of  the  pas- 
sengers complained  of  sea-sickness.  I had  the  good 
fortune  not  to  be  affected  by  it  in  the  slightest  degree  ; 
consequently  I was  in  a condition  calmly  to  view  the 
storm,  and  I was  particularly  struck  with  the  grandeur 
of  the  scene.  It  was  the  first  time  I had  seen  the 
ocean  in  its  angry  mood.  The  aspect  of  the  sea  pre- 
* sented  one  sheet  of  white  foam  ; the  waters  were 
thrown  and  dashed  about  in  every  direction  by  the 
violence  of  the  winds.  At  times,  the  waves  were 
tossed  against  our  noble  vessel,  so  as  to  cause  every 
part  of  her  to  tremble  like  an  aspen  leaf.  The  temp- 
est was  so  severe,  that  doubts  were  entertained  whe- 
ther the  captain  would  be  able  to  run  his  vessel  into 
the  harbor  of  Ostend  that  night ; but  he  proved  him- 
self to  be  a skilful  mariner*^  and  between  one  and  two 
o’clock  that  night  we  reached  the  harbor  in  perfect 
safety. 

Ostend  is  a strongly  fortified,  and  well-built  town# 


LONDON  TO  OSTEND. 


55 


situated  in  Belgium,  on  the  northern  or  German 
Ocean.  It  is  celebrated  for  the  siege  it  sustained  for 
three  years,  commencing  in  1601,  against  the  whole 
Spanish  powTer.  It  finally  capitulated  on  honorable 
terms  to  the  Spanish  forces.  Fifty  thousand  men  of 
the  besieged,  and  eighty  thousand  Spaniards,  are  said 
to  have  fallen  during  this  memorable  siege.  The 
bombardment,  when  the  wind  was  from  the  north- 
west, was  often  heard  in  London. 

The  fortress  fronts  the  ocean,  and  now  that  the  Bel- 
gians are  under  no  apprehension  of  war,  they  have 
constructed  upon  the  top  of  these  ramparts  a splendid 
promenade.  There  is  a fine  view  of  the  city  and 
ocean  from  this  beautiful  walk.  There  is  an  exten- 
sive beach  in  front  of  the  city,  admirably  adapted  for 
sea-bathing.  I observed  a number  of  small  bathing- 
houses  upon  wheels,  which  are  drawn  by  horses  some 
distance  from  the  shore,  and  there  left  until  the  ba- 
thing party  are  desirous,  of  returning.  This  town 
ranks  high  as  a watering  place,  and  is  much  resorted 
to  during  the  summer  months.  It  is  now  crowded 
with  strangers  of  distinction  from  every  part  of  the 
continent.  An  extensive  bathing-house  has  been  es- 
tablished close  to  the  sea-shore,  and  there  is  a fine 
casino  within  the  town,  which  is  used  as  an  assembly 
or  club-room.  It  contains  a handsome  ball-room  ; 
beneath  this  there  are  reading  apartments,  provided 
with  newspapers  from  all  parts  of  the  world ; also 
coffee  and  billiard  saloons.  This  ancient  city  con- 
tains between  fifteen  and  twenty  thousand  inhabitants. 

On  the  morning  after  my  arrival,  I ascended  to  the 
top  of  a lighthouse,  situated  near  the  harbor,  from 
which  I had  a bird’s  eye  view  of  the  city,  the  harbor, 
and  the  surrounding  country ; also  an  extensive  view 
of  the  canal  which  connects  it  with  the  cities  of  Bruges 
and  Ghent,  and  of  the  Belgian  and  Prussian  Pail- 
road,  which  extends  from  this  city  to  Cologne  on  the 


56 


LONDON  TO  OSTEND. 


Rhine.  I was  deeply  impressed  with  the  level  aspect 
of  the  country.  The  whole  of  the  eastern  continent 
to  the  north  of  ihe  great  mountain  girdle  extends  in 
a vast  plain,  unbroken,  except  by  the  Ural  Mountains, 
to  the  North  Pacific  Ocean.  It  embraces  the  north- 
ern part  of  France,  Belgium,  northern  Germany,  Den- 
mark, and  Russia,  and  consists  in  many  places  of  ex- 
tended plains  and  sandy  deserts.  This  country  is  un- 
der a very  high  state  of  cultivation,  and  during  the 
harvest  season  the  newly  reaped  grain  stands  in  shocks 
in  every  direction.  But  that  which  struck  me  as  being 
the  most  remarkable  feature  in  its  aspect,  is  the  fact 
that  there  are  no  fences  of  any  sort  to  be  seen,  nor  is 
there,  apparently,  anything  to  mark  the  division  lines 
between  the  farmers,  and  but  few  dwellings  upon  the 
highways,  or  anywhere  about  the  country,  excepting 
here  and  there  a posthouse  for  the  exchange  of  horses 
engaged  in  the  transportation  of  the  mails  ; but  in  the 
northern  and  eastern  provinces  the  population  is  so 
dense,  that  it  has  the  appearance,  in  many  places,  of 
one  vast  continuous  village.  The  population,  how- 
ever, throughout  Europe,  particularly  upon  the  con- 
tinent, is  chiefly  confined  to  walled  and  other  towns  ; 
these  being  esteemed  in  this  country,  which  has  been 
so  often  overrun  in  time  of  war  by  their  enemies,  as 
the  only  places  of  security. 

As  I had  taken  my  position  on  the  lighthouse  at  an 
early  hour  in  the  morning,  1 saw  the  farmers,  with 
their  wives  and  children — for  both  male  and  female 
labor  on  the  lands  in  this  country — leave  the  cities  for 
their  respective  farms,  as  soon  as  the  gates  of  the 
town  were  thrown  open  ; in  some  instances,  with  a 
cow  harnessed  to  their  cart.  Their  cattle,  sheep,  and 
swine  are  usually  kept  under  their  dwellings;  the 
sheep,  bearing  the  respective  marks  of  their  owners, 
are  driven  on  the  highway  and  common  grounds  every 
moruing,  and  returned  again  in  the  evening,  by  a 


LONDON  TO  03TEND. 


57 


shepherd,  who  is  employed  for  this  purpose  by  the 
fanners  for  some  small  consideration  per  week.  At 
the  time  I first  reached  the  top  of  the  lighthouse, 
there  was  not  a moving  thing  to  be  seen  on  the  nu- 
merous farms  surrounding  the  town ; but  in  a short 
time  they  were  covered  with  life  and  animation,  and 
everywhere  was  to  be  heard  the  shrill  whistle  or  the 
merry  song  of  the  laborers.  The  farms  contain  but 
few  acres ; every  inch  of  which,  however,  is  culti- 
vated like  a garden. 

Belgium  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  Holland,  on 
the  west  by  the  Atlantic,  on  the  east  by  Frussia,  and 
on  the  south  by  France.  It  is  composed  of  the  former 
Austrian  Netherlands,  or  the  Walloon  provinces,  and 
the  inhabitants  are  JDutch,  Germans,  Belgians — that 
is,  the  Walloons — and  Flemings  who  belong  to  the 
Greco  Latin  stock,  and  speak  a French  dialect.  The 
Belgian  provinces,  of  which  there  are  eight  in  num- 
ber, were  united  with  the  Dutch  provinces  under  the 
Spanish  dominions  in  1518.  In  1717,  they  were  re- 
ceded to  Austria,  and  were  then  called  the  Austrian 
Netherlands  ; and  at  the  close  of  the  last  century, 
they  were  incorporated  with  France,  but  in  1815  they 
were  separated  from  that  kingdom,  and  united  with 
the  Dutch  provinces,  to  form  the  kingdom  of  the  Ne- 
therlands. In  1830,  the  Belgians  seceded  from  the 
Netherland  monarchy,  and  declared  themselves  an  in- 
dependent state,  and  in  1831  elected  a king  for  tlSm- 
selves. 

This  country  has  for  centuries  been  the  great  battle- 
field of  Europe.  It  is  covered  with  places  remarkable 
in  history  as  the  scenes  of  great  victories  and  defeats, 
and  none  more  remarkable  than  that  of  Waterloo. 
The  Belgians,  according  to  the  testimony  of  Caesar, 
were  the  most  valiant  of  the  Germans,  and  particu- 
larly that  portion  which  resided  on  the  northern  Iron- 
tier  of  Germany.  They  were  at  that  p>eriod  called  the 

3* 


8 


LONDON  TO  OSTEND. 


Celtic  tribes,  and  a collection  of  Germans  of  their 
country  then  extended  from  the  Atlantic  to  the 
Rhine. 

From  time  to  time,  until  the  period  of  Caesar,  the 
German  nations  pushed  forward  beyond  the  Rhine, 
forcibly  expelling  the  Celts,  and  partly  uniting  with 
them ; and  from  this  union  sprang  a mixed  nation 
which,  in  language  as  well  as  manners,  resembled  the 
Germans  more  than  the  Celts.  The  government  of 
this  kingdom  is  a constitutional  monarchy.  The 
legislative  power  is  exercised  collectively  by  the 
king,  the  Chamber  of  the  Representatives,  and  the 
Senate.  The  initiate  pertains  to  each  of  the  three 
branches  of  the  legislative  power;  nevertheless,  every 
law  relating  to  the  revenue  and  expenditure  of  the 
kingdom,  or  to  ihe  contingent  of  the  army,  must  be 
first  voted  by  the  Chamber  of  Representatives.  The 
constitutional  powers  of  the  king  are  hereditary  in 
direct  and  natural  legitimate  descent  from  male  to 
male,  by  order  of  primogeniture,  to  the  perpetual  ex- 
clusion of  females  and  their  descendants.  The  king 
appoints  and  dismisses  his  ministers,  confers  rank  in 
the  army,  and  has  the  power  of  granting  letters  of 
nobility,  without  the  power  of  annexing  thereto  any 
privilege.  He  commands  the  army,  declares  war, 
and  makes  peace,  and  sometimes  promulgates  the 
law,s.  The  Chambers  assemble  by  their  own  right,  at 
the  city  of  Brussels,  on  the  second  Tuesday  of  Novem- 
ber in  each  year,  unless  convene^  earlier  by  the  king. 
The  Chamber  of  Representatives  is  composed  of  dep- 
uties, elected  in  proportion  of  one  to  every  forty -five 
thousand  inhabitants,  for  the  term  of  four  years,  one- 
half  elected  every  two  years.  They  are  chosen  by 
those  citizens  who  pay  a direct  tax  of  not  less  than 
twenty  florins.  The  members  of  the  Senate  are  elected 
by  the  same  electors,  for  eight  years,  consisting  of 
one-half  of  the  number  of  deputies,  one-half  cnosen 


* THE  CITIES  OF  BELGIUM. 


59 


every  fourth  year.  A senator  must  be  of  the  age  of 
forty  years,  and  worth  one  thousand  florins.  The 
judges  are  appointed  by  the  king  for  life.  Religious 
liberty,  freedom  of  the  press,  liberty  of  instruction, 
personal  liberty,  and  the  right  of  petitioning  the  king, 
are  secured  to  the  people. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

THE  CITIES  OF  BELGIUM. 

The  Canals— Southern  Provinces — Productions — Cattle  and  Horses — Decay 
and  Fall — Ruins  of  Antwerp — Revival  of  Trade — Its  Danger — Old  Cities — 
Public  Buildings — Picture  Galleries — Rubens — St.  Bavon — Notre  Dame— 
St.  Gudule — Basilicas — Leo  X.,  etc. 

The  canals  in  this  country  are  numerous;  not  less 
so,  perhaps,  than  those  of  Holland.  I will  only  men- 
tion the  great  Northern  Canal,  which  stretches  from 
Neuss,  on  the  Rhine,  in  Prussia,  by  Yanloo,  on  the 
Meuse,  to  Antwerp,  on  the  river  Scheldt,  and  which 
connects,  by  means  of  the  Scheldt,  the  Lonne  and 
Bruges  canals,  Ghent  and  Bruges ; the  Ostend  and 
.Dunkirk  canals,  reaching  the  sea  at  different  points; 
and  the  Brussels  and  the  Louvain  canals.  These 
canals  afford  every  facility  for  the  transportation  of 
merchandise  and  agricultural  products  to  and  from  all 
sections  of  this  beautiful  country. 

The  southern  provinces,  that  is,  Namur,  Hainault, 
Liege  and  Limburg,  have  long,  been  distinguished  for 
their  rich  mines  of  iron,  lead  and  copper,  their  exten- 
sive beds  of  fossil,  coal,  calamine,  and  sulphur,  and 
their  fine  quarries  of  marble  and  limestone.  These 
mines  and  quarries  have  been  worked  for  centuries, 
and  still  seem  to  be  inexhaustible.  The  manufactures 
in  these  provinces  are  among  the  most  important  in 


60 


THE  CITIES  OF  BELGIUM. 


Europe,  and  furnish  everything  that  pertains  to  the 
wants  and  conveniences  of  life  ; those  of  cloth  at 
Verviers,  of  linen  in  Liege,  of  iace  and  gold  stuff  in 
West  Flanders,  of  hats  in  South  Brabant,  of  cara- 
bines in  Hainault,  are  extensive,  and  give  profitable 
employment  to  thousands  of  persons.  The  numerous 
iron  establishments  and  brandy  distilleries  in  Liege 
and  South  Brabant,  put  in  circulation  many  millions 
of  dollars  annually. 

The  provinces  of  South  Brabant,  East  and  West 
Flanders,  are  under  a high  state  of  cultivation  : per- 
haps there  is  no  district  of  country,  of  the  same  ex- 
tent, in  the  world,  that  surpasses  this  in  that  respect. 
They  produce  flax  and  hemp  of  superior  quality,  and 
much  more  than  a sufficient  supply  of  excellent 
wheat  for  their  own  consumption,  large  quantities  of 
which  are  annually  exported  to  England  and  Spain. 
Fruit  and  vegetables  exist  in  abundance  almost  every- 
where throughout  the  country,  and  bulbous  roots  of 
every  description  are  raised  in  great  perfection. 

The  provinces  of  Limburg  and  Liege  have  ever 
been  distinguished  for  their  fine  breed  of  horned  cat- 
tle and  horses.  The  forests  of  the  Ardennes,  extend- 
ing from  France  through  the  provinces  of  Hainault, 
Namur,  Luxemburg,  is  the  only  wood-land  that  exists 
in  the  kingdom.  This  kingdom  in  the  fourteenth 
century  enjojmd  the  greater  part  of  the  commerce  of 
the  world:  the  principal  commercial  places  at  that 
time  were  Antwerp,  Bruges,  Ostend,  and  Ghent. 

The  decay  and  fall  of  the  prosperity  of  the  king- 
dom, and  with  it  its  commerce,  is  to  be  traced,  among 
other  things,  to  the  tyranny  of  the  cruel  Alva,  to  the 
establishment  of  the  Inquisition,  and  the  persecutions 
occasioned  by  it.  These  calamities  drove  upwards  of 
one  hundred  thousand  of  its  inhabitants  to  seek  an 
asylum  elsewhere ; among  whom  were  its  most  weal- 
thy merchants  and  skilful  mechanics  and  manufactur 


THE  CUTES  OF  BELGIUM. 


Cl 


ers.  To  this  persecution  England  is  chiefly  indebted 
for  her  silk,  woollen  and  other  manufactures,  which 
were  introduced  by  Flemish  refugees  from  Antwerp 
in  the  reign  of  Elizabeth  and  James  II.  Another 
blow  to  the  prosperity  of  the  commerce  of  the  king- 
dom was  the  memorable  seige  of  Antwerp,  oi  four- 
teen months,  in  1585,  which  ended  in  its  capture  by 
the  Duke  of  Parma  : one  of  the  most  memorable  ex- 
ploits of  warfare  of  that  period,  whether  we  consider 
the  strength  of  the  place,  the  bold  and  fearless  resist- 
ance offered  by  its  citizens,  who  yielded  at  last  only 
when  starved  out  by  famine,  or  the  political  conse- 
quences resulting  from  it. 

After  this  came  the  loss  of  the  navigation  of  the 
Scheldt,  which  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Dutch  at  the 
union  of  the  seven  united  provinces,  and  the  subse- 
quent closing  of  the  river  by  the  Peace  of  Westpha- 
lia, in  1684.  This  last  calamity  completed  the  com- 
mercial ruin  of  Antwerp,  and,  indeed,  the  whole 
kingdom.  Since  then  the  rise  of  manufacturing 
establishments  in  Great  Britain,  owing  in  a great 
measure  to  their  decline  in  Belgium,  has  enabled 
England  to  command  the  commerce  of  the  world,  and 
now  her  gigantic  naval  force  gives  her,  so  to  speak,  a 
power  over  the  commerce  of  the  world,  which  no 
other  nation  excepting  that  of 'the  United  States  pos- 
sesses. 

The  opening  of  the  trade  of  the  Scheldt,  bv  the 
treaty  of  peace  of  1795,  and  the  exertions  of  the 
French  government  to  promote  the  commerce  of  this 
kingdom,  at  the  expense  of  that  of  Holland,  have  re- 
vived in  some  measure  its  trade.  The  treaty  of  Paris 
and  Vienna  placed  the  commercial  rights  of  the 
northern  and  southern  Netherlands  on  an  equal  foot- 
ing. These  and  other  causes,  among  which  may  be 
recorded  the  trade  which  is  gradually  increasing  with 


62 


THE  CITIES  OF  BELGIUM. 


the  United  States,  may  augment  the  commerce  of  the 
kingdom  to  its  former  extent. 

Ilovv  long  this  kingdom  will  enjoy  an  independent 
government,  no  one  can  at  this  day  predict  with  any 
degree  of  certainty.  The  French  people  regard  the 
existing  frontiers  as  an  encroachment  on  the  national 
limits  of  France ; they  view  the  government  of  Bel- 
gium, Baden,  Bavaria,  and  the  Rhenish  provinces, 
somewhat  in  the  light  of  usurpers,  and  I have  no 
doubt  they  cherish  the  hope  that  the  old  boundaries 
of  France  will  at  no  distant  day  be  restored.  Such 
an  event,  unless  the  European  powers  interfere,  will 
eventually  happen,  and  this  beautiful  kingdom  be 
annexed  to  France.  If  this  should  happen,  the  mon- 
uments erected  by  England  and  other  nations  of 
Europe  on  the  battle-held  at  Waterloo,  to  perpetuate 
their  victory  over  Napoleon,  will  be  destroyed,  for 
they  have  ever  been  an  eyesore  to  the  French. 

The  fine  old  cities  of  Bruges,  Ghent,  Antwerp, 
Brussels,  Namur,  Louvain,  and  Liege,  are  filled  with 
objects  calculated  to  interest  and  delight  a traveller; 
and  no  one  having  leisure  should  pass  through  Bel- 
gium, without  giving  himself,  at  least,  sufficient  time 
to  examine  their  exceeding  richness  in  all  that  can 
gratify  the  eye  of  the  refined,  or  awaken  the  enthusi- 
asm of  the  antiquarian. 

The  picturesqueness  of  the  gothic  architecture,  as 
displayed  in  the  structure  of  their  public  and  private 
edifices — the  latter  being  richly  decorated  with  vari- 
ous ornaments,  with  a fantastic  variety  of  gable-ends, 
rising  step-wise  many  stories  high — arrests  the  stran- 
ger’s attention  at  every  turn,  and  at  once  amuses  and 
delights  him. 

The  municipal  structures  which  are  founded  in  the 
cities  and  towns  will  compare  favorably  with  the 
ecclesiastical  edifices  in  point  of  taste,  elegance  and 
magnificence  ; they  are  in  fact  civic  palaces,  destined 


THE  CITIES  OF  BELGIUM. 


63 


either  for  the  residences  of  the  chief  magistrates,  for 
the  meeting  of  guilds  and  corporations  of  merchants 
and  trades,  for  the  assemblies  of  municipal  govern- 
inent ; or,  as  courts  of  justice. 

The  academies  of  painting,  and  picture  galleries  in 
these  cities  contain  the  best  works  of  the  Flemish  ar- 
tists, and  are  not  elsewdiere  to  be  found  equally  ex- 
cellent J.  Yan  Eyck  is  esteemed  the  founder  or 
this  school  of  painters,  which  flourished  from  1370  to 
1445,  and  among  his  followers  are  Quintin  Matsys, 
Rembrandt,  and  Francis  Floris ; the  last-named  was 
called  the  “ Flemish  Raphael.”  But  the  works  of 
Rubens — who  was  the  founder  of  another  school  of 
painters — and  the  portraits  by  Yan  Dyke,  give  the 
highest  celebrity  to  these  fine  collections. 

The  famous  picture,  by  Rubens,  of  the  u Crucifix- 
ion of  Christ  between  the  two  Thieves,”  is  in  the  gal- 
lery at  Antwerp  This  is  said  to  be,  and  no  doubt  is, 
one  of  his  most  carefully  finished  pictures  both  as  re- 
gards composition  and  coloring.  In  the  cities  on  the 
Continent,  travellers  usually  employ  a resident  by  the 
day,  called  a commissioner,  to  point  out  such  objects 
as  are  worthy  of  notice,  and  these  men  invariably 
make  it  a point  to  conduct  you,  in  the  first  place,  to 
the  principal  ecclesiastical  edifices,  which  are  chiefly 
constructed  in  the  gothic  style,  and  are  buildings  of 
great  taste  and  elegance. 

The  St.  Sanseux,  in  Bruges,  is  a magnificent  cathe- 
dral, erected  1359,  and  is  the  handsomest  church  in 
that  city.  The  Cathedral  of  St.  Bavon,  at  Ghent, 
founded  in  the  year  994,  although  somewhat  heavy 
externally,  is  the  richest  church  of  that  town  in  its 
internal  proportions  and  decorations.  The  walls  are 
lined  with  black  marble,  the  balustrades  with  white 
variegated  marble,  and  the  gates  of  the  chapel  are 
brass.  The  Cathedral  of  Ffotre  Dame  at  Antwerp, 
is  one  of  the  largest  churches  and  finished  specimens 


64 


THE  CITIES  OF  BELGIUM. 


of  gothic  architecture  in  the  kingdom.  # It  was  com- 
menced in  the  middle  of  the  thirteenth  century:  its 
dimensions  are  five  hundred  feet  long,  by  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  feet  wide,  and  its  spire  four  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  in  height.  The  great  attraction  in  this 
church  is  the  celebrated  master- piece  of  Rubens,  “ The 
Descent  from  the  Cross.” 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Grudule,  in  Brussels.,  is  the 
finest  church  in  that  city.  It  is  a handsome  gothic 
edifice,  and  was  finished  in  the  year  1273.  It  is  re- 
markable for  the  beautifully  painted  glass  in  its  win- 
dows, especially  that  executed  by  Roger  Yander 
Weyde.  These  windows  are  considered  by  good  jud- 
ges as  among  the  finest  in  the  world.  The  statues  of 
the  twelve  apostles,  and  the  carved  pulpit  represent- 
ing Adam  and  Eve  driven  out  of  Paradise,  attract 
the  attention  of  all  who  visit  this  magnificent  church. 
I have  only  taken  notice  of  the  principal  churches  in 
these  cities  ; they  are  filled  with  many  more  well  de- 
serving of  careful  examination. 

In  looking  at  these  splendid  and  costly  edifices,  one 
is  naturally  led  to  inquire  when  the  extravagance  of 
erecting  edifices  of  this  character  was  first  introduced. 
Prior  to  the  commencement  of  the  third  century,  the 
early  Christians  were  obliged  to  worship  in  private 
houses,  in  the  open  air,  or  in  secret  places,  because 
they  were  not  acknowledged  by  the  state  until  that 
period  : they  could  not,  consequently,  venture  to  give 
more  publicity  to  the  service,  or  to  build  churches  for 
their  accommodation.  The  earliest  Christian  churches 
are  assigned  to  the  reign  of  Alexander  Severus.  The 
change  from  private  buildings  set  apart  for  that  pur- 
pose, to  a public  one,  may  have  been  at  an  earlier 
period.  Since  the  fourth  century  the  churches  have 
become  large  and  magnificent  buildings.  Of  this 
character  were  those  erected  by  Constantine,  and 
more  particularly  by  Theodosius  and  Justinian.  Many 


THE  CITIES  OF  BELGIUM. 


65 


pagan  and  heathen  temples  were  early  converted  into 
churches;  but  they  were  not  altogether  suited  to  the 
worship  or  ceremonials  of  Christianity. 

The  basilicas  which  were  erected  in  many  towns, 
and  at  every  imperial  residence,  as  places  for  holding 
courts  and  transacting  the  public  b isiness,  were  the 
iirst  editices  used  for  worshiping  in  by  the  Christians. 
Constantine  granted  to  them  the  use  of  the  Basilica, 
which  stood  at  Borne  on  the  spot  where  the  Cathedral 
of  St.  John  de  Lateran  now  stands  : hence  the  churches 
in  many  part  of  Europe  are  called  basilicas  to  this 
day.  In  the  middle  ages  many  splendid  editices  for 
the  performance  of  divine  service  were  constructed 
which  for  loftiness  and  grandeur  have  never  been  sur- 
passed. Some  of  the  most  splendid  of  these  are  St. 
Peter’s,  at  Bonie,  Milan  Cathedral,  St..  Paul’s,  at 
Borne,  St.  Paul’s,  at  London,  St.  Petrorrior,  at  Bol- 
ogna, Florence  Cathedral,  Antwerp  Cathedral,  St.  So- 
phia’s, at  Constantinople,  St.  John  Lateran,  Notre 
Dame,  at  Paris,  Pisa  Cathedral,  St.  Stephen,  at  Vien- 
na, St.  Donna,  and  St.  Peter’s,  at  Bologna,  Cathedral 
of  Suma,  and  St.  Mark’s,  at  Venice.  St.  Peter’s,  at 
Borne,  which  stands  upon  the  spot  hallowed  by  his 
martyrdom,  is  built  with  the  materials  of  Nero’s  Cir- 
cus— where  were  enacted  scenes  of  sanguinary  pleas- 
ures in  the  persecutions  of  the  Christians — and  cost 
upwards  of  fifty  millions  of  crowns  : a sum  exceeding 
the  cost  of  the  construction  of  all  the  churches  of 
the  United  States,  of  every  denomination.  The  tax 
imposed  upon  the  Catholics  in  Germany,  and  else- 
where, to  be  applied  to  the  completion  of  St.  Peter’s, 
was  one  of  the  causes  which  leh  to  the  Reformation. 
The  princes  and  people  of  Germany  not  only  com- 
plained against  the  exorbitant  taxes  raised  in  this 
way,  but  they  were  exasperated  against  tin*  Church, 
and  complained  against  the  pope  tor  raising  sums  for 
this  object  by  the  sale  of  indulgences,  which  were 


FROM  OSTEND  TO  BRUGES. 


f)G 

then  granted  even  without  repentance:  as  it  was  said, 
the  easy  absolution  from  the  deepest  guilt,  and  relief 
from  temporal  penance  and  external  punishment,  for 
a pecuniary  consideration,  were  so  alluriug  to  the 
people,  that  large  sums  through  this  source,  were 
brought  into  the  treasury  of  Leo  X.,  who  seemed  to 
think  that  he  was  placed  at  the  head  of  the  church 
merely  to  employ  its  side  revenues  in  gratifying 
princely  tastes. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

FROM  OSTEND  TO  BRUGES. 

Canals-  The  Hansa— First  Diet— The  Hanseatic  League — Bruges— Van  Eyck 
— Golden  Fleece— Hotel  de  Ville— Lace  an:l  Linen  -Public  Edifices — South- 
ey’s Lines— Trade  with  thi8  Country — Climate— Historical  Interest. 

I travelled  from  Ostend  to  Bruges  by  railroad, 
which  now  takes  the  place  of  all  other  channels  of 
conveyance.  This  city,  which  is  the  capital  of  Vest 
Flanders,  is  situated  about  six  miles  from  the  sea. 
Six  canals  concentrate  here,  rendering  it  the  centre 
of  an  extensive  commerce.  The  principal  ones  are 
those  which  lead  to  Slnys  and  Ostend  ; on  the  latter 
vessels  of  three  hundred  tons  can  come  up  to  Bruges. 

This  city,  at  a very  early  period,  was  an  important 
member  of  the  Hanseatic  confederacy,  called,  by  way 
of  eminence,  the  Ilansa , which,  in  the  old  Teutonic 
dialect,  signified  a league  for  mutual  defence.  It 
was  formed  in  the  middie  of  the  thirteenth  century,  in 
order  to  protect  the  commerce  and  trade  of  the  coun- 
try against  pirates.  The  sea  and  land  at  that  time  lit- 
erally swarmed  with  them.  The  numerous  kingdoms, 
principalities,  and  other  governments,  into  which  Eu- 
rope was  then  cut  up  and  divided,  having  totally  ne* 


FROM  OSTEND  TO  BRUGES. 


67 


glected  to  provide  for  its  protection,  obliged  the  mem- 
bers of  the  confederacy  to  make  some  provision  them- 
selves therefor. 

In  1268,  the  first  diet  was  held  under  the  confeder- 
ation at  the  city  of  Lubeck,  and  thereafter  regular 
meetings  took  place  every  three  years.  There,  too, 
the  archives  of  the  league  were  kept.  The  number 
of  the  Hauseatic  towns  belonging  to  this  league  va- 
ned  ; the  largest  number  was  eighty-five. 

Four  great  factories,  or  depots , were  established  by 
the  league — one  at  London,  one  at  Noogried,  one  at 
Bergen,  and  the  other  at  Bruges 

The  Hanseatic  cities  obtained  under  this  confeder- 
ation great  importance,  although  the  body  was  never 
formally  acknowledged  by  the  empire.  The  charters, 
however,  which  were  granted  by  several  of  the  Eu- 
ropean sovereigns,  gave  firmness  to  the  whole,  and  in 
the  year  1364,  an  act  of  confederation  was  drawn  up 
in  due  form  in  the  city  of  Cologne.  In  the  fourteenth 
century,  this  confederation,  or  league,  attained  every- 
where a high  political  importance,  and  gave  rise  to 
the  development  of  that  commercial  policy  which  has 
since  become  intimately  connected  with  all  political 
relations.  The  object  of  this  league  was  declared  to 
be — to  protect  the  people  forming  it,  and  their  com- 
merce from  pillage,  to  maintain,  increase,  and  ex- 
tend, if  possible,  the  rights  and  immunities  received 
from  the  European  sovereigns;  and  to  provide  for  the 
security  of  the  commerce  on  the  Baltic  and  North 
Seas.  In  the  country  under  its  immediate  influence, 
it  constructed  canals,  and  introduced  a uniform  sys- 
tem of  weights  and  measures.  The  last  diet  of  this 
remarkable  league  was  held  at  Lubeck  in  the  year 
16  -0,  when  the  confederation  was  dissolved;  but  this 
dissolution  did  not  take  place  until  the  sovereigns  of 
Europe  had  learned  the  advantage  of  trade  to  their 
own  estates,  and  not  until  they  had  turned  their  attem 


68 


FROM  OSTEND  TO  BRUGES. 


tion  to  the  formation  of  a naval  force  of  their  own 
for  the  protection  of  the  commerce  of  the  world, 
thereby  rendering  it  no  longer  necessary  for  the  con- 
federation to  keep  up  one  for  its  own  protection. 

The  rise  and  progress  of  Bruges  to  the  high  posi- 
tion it  once  occupied,  was  greatly  promoted  by  this 
confederation  or  league.  Bruges  was  a rich  and 
powerful  city  when  Antwerp  and  Ghent  were  only  in 
their  infancy  and  the  commerce  of  the  world,  during 
this  period,  concentrated  in  this  beautiful  city.  It 
was  also  called  the  great  work-shop  of  all  nations. 
Factories,  or  privileged  companies  of  merchants,  from 
seventeen  kingdoms,  were  settled  here,  and  twenty 
foreign  ministers  had  hotels  within  its  walls.  It  was 
long  the  residence  of  the  Counts  of  Flanders,  and  it 
reached  the  height  of  its  splendor  in  the  first  part  of 
the  fifteenth  century,  when  the  Duke  of  Burgundy 
lixed  his  court  here. 

It  is  a city  of  considerable  extent,  and  the  size  and 
splendor  of  its  public  and  private  edifices  give  evi- 
dence of  its  former  wealth  and  prosperity.  It  was 
here  that  Maximilian  was  seized  and  confined  in 
1487-8,  by  his  unruly  subjects,  who  became  irritated 
at  some  infringement  of  their  rights. 

Here,  in  the  ancient  cathedral  of  St.  Donatus,  re- 
pose the  mortal  remains  of  the  celebrated  painter 
John  Van  Eyck,  and  here  the  famous  order  <>f  the 
Golden  Fleece  was  established  by  Philip  the  Good, 
in  the  establishment  of  which  he  paid  a just  compli- 
ment, symb  dically,  to  the  skill  of  the  weavers,  who, 
by  the  perfection  to  which  they  had  brought  the  manu- 
facture of  wool,  had  mainly  contributed  to  the  rapid 
advancement  and  prosperity  of  the  city. 

I examined  the  holy  sepulchre  in  tiie  Jerusalem 
chapel,  which  is  said  to  be  a fao  simile  of  the  inter- 
ior of  the  tomb  at  Jerusalem.  Its  founder  made  sev- 


FROM  OSTEJSTD  TO  BRUGES. 


69 


rral  visits  to  tlie  holy  land  in  order  to  perfect  the  re- 
semblance. 

Being  desirous  of  taking  a view  of  the  city  and  sur- 
rounding country,  I ascended  the  tower  attached  to 
the  Hotel  de  Ville , situated  on  the  great  square. 
There  are  four  hundred  and  two  steps  of  easy  ascent 
leading  to  the  top.  The  bird’s-eye  view  from  this  eleva- 
tion is  enchanting.  The  whole  city  lies  before  you, 
with  its  numerous  canals  and  wharves,  and  with  an 
unbounded  view  of  the  surrounding  country.  In  as- 
cending the  tower  to  obtain  this  extensive  and  beau- 
tiful view,  one  is  naturally  attracted  by  the  chime  of 
bells  it  contains,  and  led  to  examine  them  particu- 
larly. This  chime  is  conceded  to  be  the  finest  in  Eu- 
rope, and  is  played  four  times  in  every  hour.  The 
machinery  consists  of  an  enormous  brass  cylinder,  act- 
ing like  the  ban-el  of  an  organ  and  setting  in  motion 
the  keys  of  the  instrument ; but  on  Sundays  the 
chime  is  played  by  a musician,  or  salaried  professor, 
usually  the  organist  of  the  church,  who  performs  upon 
it  by  touching  the  keys,  as  one  does  those  of  a piano. 
The  airs,  I am  told,  are  usually  change  1 every  year. 
There  are  forty-eight  bells  attached  to  this  celebrated 
chime. 

Tl  ie  building  of  this  tower  was  begun  in  1292.  The 
foundation  stones  are  placed  more  than  thirty  feet 
deep.  There  was  formerly  a magnificent  spire  above 
the  tower,  but  on  the  twenty-fifth  January,  1493,  it 
was  set  on  tire  by  lightning,  and  all  the  exterior  was 
destroyed.  On  the  thirtieth  of  April,  1741,  it  having 
been  previously  rebuilt,  it  was  again  destroyed  by 
fire,  and  all  the  bells  were  melted,  since  which,  it  has 
not  been  replaced. 

The  chief  articles  now  manufactured  in  Bruges,  are 
lace  and  linen.  The  city  also  exports  much  grain, 
and  when  the  English  ports  are  open,  immense  quan- 
tities are  shipped. 


70 


FROM  OSTEND  TO  BRUGES. 


The  Academy  of  Paintings,  the  public  library,  the 
numerous  Gothic,  public  aird  ecclesiastical  edifices, 
the  Hospital  of  St.  John,  the  ancient  palace  of  the 
Counts  of  Flanders,  the  palace  of  Justice,  the  con- 
vent of  Bregune  Nuns,  and  the  ancient  and  inimitable 
carvings  in  wood  in  several  of  the  public  edifices — ■ 
are  all  particularly  deserving  of  notice. 

This  ancient  and  beautiful  city,  which  has  so  much 
historically  to  attract  the  attention  and  admiration  of 
the  traveller,  no  doubt  contained  in  its  brightest  days 
several  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  but  it  is  now 
reduced  to  sixty  thousand,  several  thousand  of  whom 
are  paupers.  The  following  lines  of  Southey  elo- 
quently describe  its  former  grandeur  and  present  des- 
olation : — 

“ Fair  city,  worthy  of  her  ancient  fame  ; 

The  season  of  her  splendor  is  gone  by, 

Yet  everywhere  its  monuments  remain — 

Temples  which  rear  their  stately  heads  on  high, 

Canals  that  intersect  the  fertile  plain, 

Wide  streets  and  squares,  with  many  a court  and  hall 
Spacious  and  undefaced,  but  ancient  all. 
******* 

When  I may  read  of  tilts  in  days  of  old, 

And  tournays  graced  by  chieftains  of  renown, 

Fair  dames,  grave  citizens,  and  warriors  bold, 

If  Fancy  would  portray  some  stately  town, 

Which  for  such  pomp  tit  theatre  would  be, 

Fair  Bruges,  I shall  then  remember  thee.” 

It  is  impossible  for  language  to  give  a more  gra- 
phic and  correct  description  of  this  fine  old  town, 
than  is  given  in  the  above  lines.  It  is  melancholy  to 
look  back  upon  this  ancient  city  in  its  present  ap- 
parently deserted  condition,  still  I think  I can  see  a 
determination  among  the  citizens  to  restore  it  to  its 
former  grandeur.  The  trade  which  is  opening  with 
the  United  States,  will  aid  in  restoring  the  manufac- 
tories to  their  former  usefulness,  and  greatly  contrb 
bute  to  its  already  increasing  wealth  and  population. 

The  climate  is  temperate  and  salubrious,  and  the 
living  'much  cheaper  than  in  England.  Its  contiguity 


THE  CITY  OF  GHENT. 


71 


to  numerous  other  cities  and  watering-places,  the 
pleasant  drives  around  and  about  the  country,  the 
great  desire  of  its  inhabitants  to  show  every  attention 
and  civility  to  strangers,  besides  its  being  filled  with 
places  of  historical  interest,  render  it  a desirable  place 
of  residence  for  persons  of  leisure  during  the  summer 
months. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

THE  CITY  OF  GHENT. 

Ghent-  Grand  Canal — Time  of  Charles  the  Vth.-  Harvest-Fields— Treaty  of 
Ghent — England  our  Mot  >er— Policy  of  the  United  States — The  University 
—Counts  of  Flanders-  Trades  Unions -Brewer  of  Ghent— Philip  Van 
Artevaldt -Dudeburg — Charles  the  Vth — Duke  of  Alva  -The  Boulevards 
— Exhibition. 

The  city  of  Ghent  is  the  capital  of  the  province  of 
East  Flanders — formerly  of  the  whole  Country  of 
Flanders,  and  at  an  earlier  period,  of  the  Austrian 
part  of  that  country.  ^ It  is  situated  at  the  confluence 
of  the  river  Scheldt  with  the  Lys.  These  rivers  and 
the  canals  which  pass  through  the  city  in  every  di- 
rection, divide  the  town  into  twenty-six  islands,  con- 
nected bv  eighty  fine  bridges.  It  contains  a popula- 
tion of  upwards  of  a hundred  thousand  inhabitants. 
Vessels  drawing  eighteen  feet  of  water,  find  no  diffi- 
culty in  entering  the  basin  under  the  walls  of  the 
town,  where  they  discharge  and  receive  their  car- 
goes. 

The  grand  canal,  which  communicates  with  the  sea, 
enters  the  Scheldt  at  Tenereuse.  This  canal  gives  the 
city  all  the  advantages  of  a seaport.  In  the  time  of 
Charles  the  Fifth,  the  city  contained  thirty-five  thou- 
sand houses,  and  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  thou- 
sand inhabitants,  and  was  then,  doubtless,  a larger 
city  than  Paris ; for  that  Emperor  used,  sportively. 


72 


CITY  OF  GHENT. 


to  say  that  lie  could  put  all  Paris  in  his  glove,  ( ganf .) 
The  circumference  of  its  walls,  at  the  present  day,  is 
between  seven  and  eight  miles. 

In  travelling  from  Bruges  to  Ghent,  1 was  favored 
with  a bright  and  beautiful  day.  It  was  the  lattei 
part  of  Apr  d,  and  the  farmers  were  everywhere  en- 
gaged in  their  cultured  fields,  and  were,  no  doubt, 
hoping  they  might  be  the  recipients  of  abundant 
crops.  It  seems  to  me  that  there  is  not  iti  Europe,  or 
in  any  part  of  the  world,  a more  beautiful,  fertile,  or 
richer  country  than  that  lying  between  these  two  an- 
cient towns.  Here  the  fields,  when  they  are  well  cul- 
tivated, yield  all  that  the  owners  or  occupants  can 
hope  or  wish  for,  and  the  highly  cultivated  and  beau- 
tiful gardens,  every  where  to  be  seen  on  the  route,  at 
once  astonish  and  delight  the  traveller.  I passed  over 
the  route  traversed  by  Caesar,  at  the  head  of  his  bril- 
liant army,  when  on  his  way  to  invade  England  and 
where  Maximillian  the  Great,  and  the  Emperor  Ha 
poleon,  with  other  eminent  warriors,  marched  and 
countermarched  their  forces  for  the  bloody  contest. 
Now  the  din  of  war  is  no  longer  heard,  but  instead 
thereof,  the  farmers  and  their  families  are  engaged  in 
peaceful  and  agricultural  pursuits. 

While  musing  on  what  was  passing  before  me,  and 
occasionally  thinking  of  the  thrilling  and  bloody  his- 
tory of  the  country,  some  one  exclaimed  Ghent !” 
I turned  my  eyes  in  the  direction  pointed  out,  and 
saw  the  spires  of  the  city  rising  against  the  sky  in 
the  distance,  and  glittering  like  burnished  spears  in 
the  sunshine.  This  tine  town  is  particularly  interest- 
ing to  an  American,  for  the  war  of  181:4  between 
Great  Britain  and  the  United  States,  was  terminated 
here  on  the  twenty-fourth  of  December,  1814,  by  the 
treaty  of  Ghent,  entered  into  by  Messrs.  J.  Q. 
Adams,  Albert  Gallatin,  and  Henry  Olay,  commis- 
sioners oil  the  part  of  the  United  Stales,  aiid  by  Lord 


THE  CITY  OF  GHE'ST. 


73 


Garabier,  and  Messrs.  Henry  Gonlbnrn  and  William 
Adams,  commissioners  on  the  part  of  Great  Britain. 
1 sincerely  hope  and  trust  that  this  treaty  will  endure 
forever.  There  is  no  reason  why  the  two  govern- 
ments should  ever  be  involved  in  another  war  with 
each  other,  but  every  reason  why  they  should  culti- 
vate and  encourage  only  friendly  relations.  There 
never  ought  to  be  any  real  ground  of  quarrel  with 
Great  Bri  tain.  The  interests  of  the  two  countries  are 
identical,  their  language,  their  moral  principles,  and 
their  religion  are  the  same.  They  have  a common  lit- 
erature. The  libraries  in  the  United  States  are  tilled 
with  the  works  of  their  best  writers — Shakspeare, 
Milton,  Bacon,  Pope,  Addison,  Scott,  Byron,  and  a 
long  array  of  other  illustrious  names  which  adorn  the 
literature  of  England.  The  same  old  Saxon  laws  shed 
their  light  upon  both  countries.  Their  writers  on  j u- 
risprudence— Bacon,  Blackstone,  and  a host  of  others 
— are  as  familiar  to  the  members  of  that  learned  pro- 
fession in  America  as  in  England.  The  works  of  their 
painters  and  artists  are  to  be  met  with,  not  only  in 
the  mansions  of  our  wealthy  merchants  and  others  in 
the  cities  on  the  seaboard,  but  in  the  log  cabins  of  our 
citizens  in  the  remotest  parts  of  the  country  ; and, 
above  all,  the  same  blood  flows  in  their  veins.  The 
largest  portion  of  the  people  of  the  United  States 
look  upon  England  as  their  father-land.  To  England 
the  commerce  and  commercial  system  of  the  United 
States  are  of  vital  interest : for  its  people  are  the 
largest  foreign  consumers  of  their  products  and  man- 
ufactures, and  the  most  profitable  employers  of  their 
accumulated  capital.  The  falling  off,  at  any  time,  of 
Americau  consumption  of  the  products  of  England 
will  be  severely  felt  not  only  in  England  but  in  the 
whole  of  Europe.  Half  of  the  manufacturing  popu- 
lation of  Europe  that  is  engaged  in  manufacturing 
goods  for  exportation,  is  supported  by  the  labor  re- 

4 


74 


THE  CITY  OF  GHENT. 


quisite  for  the  American  market.  It  is  so  in  the  silk 
districts  in  France,  in  the  cotton  and  woollen  districts 
in  England,  and  with  the  woollen  districts  in  Ger- 
many. Such  an  event  would  reduce  the  manufactur- 
ing people  who  depend  on  an  American  market,  al- 
most to  a state  of  want ; and  it  would  ultimately  be 
felt  by  the  higher  classes,  and  in  the  high  seats  of 
financial  and  political  power. 

The  goods,  wares,  and  merchandise  manufactured 
and  exported  to  the  United  States,  are  vended  in  every 
city,  town,  hamlet  and  village  within  its  extensive 
limits.  Hundreds  of  millions  are  expended  by  the 
people  of  the  United  States  in  the  purchase  of  these 
articles,  and  so  long  as  these  countries  remain  at 
peace  with  each  other  these  expenditures  will  be  yearly 
increased,  instead  of  diminished.  It  is,  and  long  has 
been,  and  I trust  ever  will  be,  the  policy  of  the  gov- 
ernment of  the  United  States  to  remain  at  peace  with 
all  the  world.  This  government  lias  no  desire  for 
conquest.  Ho  effort  has  been  made  to  wrest  from 
Great  Britain  her  provinces  of  Upper  and  Lower  Ca- 
nada, or  any  of  her  possessions  adjoining  the  United 
States,  since  the  war  of  1812,  and  none  will  ever  be 
made.  It  is  a very  grave  question  whether  these  pro- 
vinces would  be  admitted  into  the  Union  in  case  their 
people  should  at  any  time  achieve  their  own  indepen- 
dence, and  ask  to  be  admitted.  The  slave  question, 
which  has  been  so  long  agitated,  would  operate  against 
?uhe  admission  of  such  an  extensive  free  territory  as  is 
embraced  within  the  limits  of  these  provinces.  Be- 
sides, it  is  the  interest  of  the  United  States  to  extend 
its  limits  to  the  Pacific,  and  no*doubt  remains  but  that 
a large  portion,  if  not  the  whole  of  Mexico  will  ulti- 
mately be  annexed  to  the  United  States,  if  it  can  be 
effected  by  purchase  and  voluntary  cession,  as  will 
also  the  island  of  Cuba. 

I will  not,  however,  dwell  on  this  subject  longer; 


THE  CITY  OF  GHENT. 


75 


for  if  seems  to  me  that  the  wise  and  sagacious  states- 
men of  both  countries  will  avoid  in  future,  so  far  as  it 
can  be  done  with  honor,  all  causes  which  might  lead 
to  hostilities. 

But  to  return  to  the  city  itself.  The  character  of 
the  ecclesiastical,  municipal,  public,  and  private  edi- 
fices are  not  unlike  those  of  Bruges.  The  University 
is  a very  handsome,  modern  structure,  with  a chaste 
and  beautiful  Corinthian  portico,  built  on  the  site  of 
a college  of  the  Jesuits.  It  was  founded  by  William 
King  of  Holland,  in  1820.  The  Marche  au  Vendredi 
or  Market  Square,  is  surrounded  by  ancient  houses; 
and  is  named  from  the  day  on  which  the  market  i$> 
held  in  it.  The  ceremonies  of  the  inauguration  of  the 
Counts  of  Flanders  were  celebrated  on  this  spot. 
Here,  also,  was  the  rendezcous  of  the  “ Trades 
Unions  ” of  the  middle  ages,  whenever  a real  or 
supposed  breach  of  the  privileges  of  their  guilds  or 
corporations  on  the  part  of  their  rulers  excited  those 
turbulent  spirits  to  rebellion.  Here  their  standards 
were  planted,  around  which  they  rallied  in  arms. 

On  this  spot  Jacques  Van  Artevaldt,  a descendant 
of  one  of  the  noblest  families  of  Flanders — but  called 
the  Brewer  of  Ghent,  because  he  had  enrolled  him- 
self in  the  corporation  of  brewers,  to  flatter  the  popu- 
lar vanity  by  ranking  himself  among  the  people  as 
the  head  of  his  partisans,  chiefly  weavers — encoun- 
tered the  opposite  faction  of  fullers,  in  a civic  broil, 
with  such  blood-thirsty  fury,  that  fifteen  hundred 
persons  were  slain  by  their  fellow  citizens,  and  their 
bodies  left  on  the  square. 

it  was  on  this  plain,  forty  years  after,  that  his  son, 
Philip  Van  Artevaldt,  was  selected  as  Protector  of 
Ghent,  and  received  in  a.  d.  1381,  the  oath  of  fidelity 
by  his  townsmen,  when  called  upon  to  lead  them 
against  their  oppressor,  Louis  de  Mall.  It  was  in  the 
Square,  at  a later  period,  under  the  Duke  of  Alva, 


76 


THE  CITY  OF  GHENT. 


that  the  fire  of  the  Inquisition  was  lighted.  Many 
thousands  perished  during  these  religious  persecu- 
tions, and  the  best  and  most  industrious  citizens  of 
Ghent  were  dispersed  through  this  cause  over  other 
lands,  while  a fatal  blow  at  her  commercial  prosperity 
was  the  result  of  it. 

In  the  Place  Pharulde,  near  the  Marche  aux  Pois- 
son, still  stands  the  old  turretted  gateway  called  the 
Oudeburg,  a relic  of  the  castie  of  the  Counts  of  Flan- 
ders, built  by  Bauldwin  Bias  de  Fai  in  863.  The 
small  portion  that  remains  of  the  building,  consisting 
of  an  old  archway  or  turret,  is  now  incorporated  in  a 
cotton  factory.  It  is  much  visited  on  account  of  its 
being  one  of  the  oldest  existing  buildings  in  Belgium. 

The  Emperor  Charles  V.,  was  born  in  Ghent.  Hav- 
ing been  driven  from  the  city  by  the  turbulence  and 
sedition  of  his  subjects,  he  suddenly  arrived  before 
and  surrounded  it  with  a large  army.  Messengers 
were  despatched  to  sue  for  his  forgiveness ; but, 
without  granting  conditions,  he  demanded  instant 
admittance  within  its  walls  ; then,  posting  guards  at 
the  gaes,  he  proceeded  to  take  measures  for  chas- 
tising its  inhabitants. 

It  was  while  deliberating  on  the  punishment  to  be 
indicted,  that  the  infamous  Duke  of  Alva  suggested 
the  annihilation  of  all  within  the  city.  Charles,  how- 
ever, was  satisfied  with  a cruel  but  less  sweeping 
retribution.  Fourteen  of  the  ringleaders  were  be- 
headed, others  were  banished,  and  their  goods  for- 
feited. The  city  was  declared  guilty  of  sedition,  and, 
in  consequence,  the  magistrates,  and  principal  citi- 
zens, the  chief  of  the  guilds,  and  of  the  corporation 
of  weavers,  were  compelled  to  present  themselves 
before  Charles  in  black  gowns,  with  bare  heads  and 
feet,  halters  about  their  necks,  and  on  their  knees  to 
ask  pardon  of  him  for  their  transgressions.  He 
exacted  as  a further  penalty,  that  magistrates  should 


THE  CITY  OF  GHENT. 


77 


never  appear  in  public  without  the  halter.  This, 
which  was  intended  as  a badge  of  infamy,  was  after- 
ward converted  into  a decoration.  The  rope,  in  the 
course  of  years,  became  a rich  silken  cord,  and  was 
worn  around  the  neck  as  an  ornament.  These  histori- 
cal sketches,  and  others  which  might  be  given,  add 
much  to  the  interest  a traveller  feels  for  this  ancient 
and  beautiful  town. 

One  of  the  principal  promenades  of  the  city,  is  by 
the  side  of  the  canal,  cut  in  1758,  to  unite  the  Lys 
and  Bruges  canals  together.  It  is  lined  with  double 
avenues  of  trees,  rendering  it  in  the  heat  of  summer 
a delightful  resort  for  its  citizens.  The  Boulevards 
around  the  town,  which  o-ccupy  the  site  where  its  an- 
cient ramparts  once  stood,  are  also  fashionable  and 
agreeable  walks,  and  at  the  place  of  arms,  which  lies 
within  the  town,  a military  band  usually  plays  on 
summer  evenings,  which  calls  together  the  elite  of 
the  city. 

Ghent,  although  fallen  from  its  high  position,  and 
sunk  both  in  population  and  extent  of  manufactures 
below  what  it  was,  is,  nevertheless,  the  Belgic  Man- 
chester. In  1804,  while  united  to  France,  it  was 
ranked  by  Napoleon  as  the  third  manufacturing  town 
in  his  dominions.  It  is  now  a place  of  much  com- 
merce, and  I observed  while  there,  among  the  vessels 
which  were  loading  and  unloading  at  its  wharves, 
jne  from  New  Orleans. 

I attended  a public  exhibition  of  the  manufactures, 
which  attracted  the  attention  of  its  distinguished 
citizens,  as  well  as  a large  number  from  every  part 
of  the  kingdom.  It  was  one  of  the  finest  I had  seen  in 
Europe,  and  gave  assurance  that  their  manufactured 
goods  would  compare  favorably  with  that  of  any 
other  country. 

After  having  visited  most  of  the  cities  and  points 
of  interest  in  this  country,  including  the  once  great 


78 


FROM  MARSEILLES  TO  MALTA. 


commercial  city  of  Antwerp,  which  at  one  time 
enjoyed  the  commerce  of  the  world,  we  pursued  our 
journey  to  Paris,  by  the  way  of  the  beautiful  city  of 
Brussels,  and  from  thence  to  Marseilles. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


FROM  MARSEILLES  TO  MALTA. 


Hotel  l’Empereur— The  Old  and  New  Town — View  of  the  City — Its  Trade- 
French  Troops — Courtesy  of  a French  Colonel — The  Voyage  in  the  Medit- 
erranean— Sardinia— Corsica — Sicily — Neapolitan  Prison. 


At  Marseilles  we  engaged  rooms  at  the  Hotel 
l’Empereur,  a large  and  fashionable  establishment, 
well  tilled  at  the  time  with  guests  from  every  quar- 
ter of  the  globe. 

This  tine  old  town,  which  dates  its  origin  to  at 
least  six  hundred  years  before  Christ,  was  founded  by 
the  Phocians,  and  was,  during  the  early  period  of  its 
existence,  a republic.  It  was  styled  the  Athens  of 
Gaul  by  Cicero,  and  the  mistress  of  the  sciences  by 
Pliny.  After  its  capture  by  Julius  Caesar,  and  when 
under  the  dominion  of  the  Romans,  it  rivalled  Alex- 
andria and  Constantinople  in  commerce,  and  it  still 
is  the  commercial  seaport  town  of  France.  Its  pre- 
sent population  is  three  hundred  thousand.  The  old 
town  is  chieliy  composed  of  narrow,  steep,  and  wind- 
ing streets.  The  new  city  is,  however,  laid  out  in 
wide  thoroughfares,  with  several  agreeable  promen- 
ades and  squares,  well  filled  with  forest  and  orna- 
mental trees.  The  cathedral  of  St.  Victor  is  one  of 
the  oldest  in  France,  having  been  built  in  the  second 
century,  and  is  remarkable  for  its  crypt,  in  which, 
tradition  asserts,  several  of  the  early  Christians,  when 
persecuted,  found  a safe  refuge. 

The  view  of  the  city,  as  seen  from  a hill  on  the 


FROM  MARSEILLES  TO  MALTA. 


79 


east,  is  picturesque  and  commanding.  A large  am- 
phi theatrical  plain,  enclosed  with  high  mountains, 
surrounds  it  on  the  land  side.  The  plain  itself  is 
adorned  with  numerous  beautiful  country  residences 
and  farm  houses,  and  is  tastefully  planted  with  olives 
and  evergreen.  Numerous  villages  rise  in  every  di- 
rection, and  add  much  to  the  beauty  and  variety  of 
the  landscape. 

The  city  commands  considerable  commerce  with 
all  parts  of  the  world,  particularly  with  Italy,  Spain, 
the  Barbary  States,  and  the  Levant.  One  quarter  of 
the  entire  cotton,  in  bales,  imported  by  France,  is 
brought  into  this  city.  It  is  at  this  day,  as  it  was  of 
yore,  distinguished  for  its  many  institutions  of  learn- 
ing on  liberal  foundations. 

During  the  time  we  were  in  this  city,  comprising 
several  days,  in  which  we  were  awaiting  the  sailing 
of  the  steamer  for  Alexandria,  and  which  we  passed 
in  a most  agreeable  manner,  it  was  one  vast  camp, 
being  filled  with  soldiers  destined  for  the  war  in 
Italy.  We  availed  ourselves  of  the  opportunity  thus 
presented  of  attending  several  dress  parades,  and  in 
visiting  the  encampments  within  the  city  and  its 
neighborhood.  The  fine  bands  of  music  which  played 
the  national  airs  of  France,  and  also  other  pieces,  on 
these  occasions,  contributed  greatly  to  the  gratifica- 
tion of  the  numerous  visitors. 

We  embarked  in  the  steamer  Elora,  Captain  Rob- 
erts, on  the  twenty-eighth  of  April,  for  Alexandria. 
The  vessel  is  an  iron  propeller,  belonging  to  the  Pen- 
insular and  Oriental  Steam  Navigation  Company. 
The  crew  are  all  English,  and  under  a perfect  state 
of  discipline.  Everything  is  kept  in  perfect  order. 
We  went  on  board  the  steamer  at  nine  o’clock,  a.  m.? 
but  were  prevented  from  sailing  at  the  hour  named? 
by.ap  unexpected  military  order,  until  after  the  em- 
barkation of  the  French  army  for  Genoa.  I was  my. 


80 


FROM  MARSEILLES  TO  MALTA. 


self  pleased  at  the  delay,  as  it  gave  me  an  opportunity 
of  witnessing  this  fine  military  display. 

The  outer,  or  new  harbor,  where  the  embarkation 
took  place,  and  where  our  vessel  was  lying  at  anchor, 
is  protected  by  a grand  breakwater,  with  a fine  walk 
upon  its  top,  and  steps  of  easy  ascent  leading  to  it 
from  the  wharf  in  front,  which  also  forms  a part  of 
the  great  work.  The  wharf  is  of  considerable  width, 
and  extends  from  the  shore  on  the  north  side  to  the 
extreme  southern  end  of  the  breakwater.  The  Cap* 
tain  tendered  us,  together  with  a few  of  the  other 
passengers,  a yawl,  which  conveyed  us  to  the  break- 
water, on  the  top  of  which  we  walked  while  the 
troops  were  marched  from  their  encampment,  by 
regiments,  to  the  wharf.  We  had  a perfect  bird’s-eye 
view  of  this  military  display  from  our  elevated  posi- 
tion. The  horses  were  taken  on  board  with  great 
ease  and  rapidity.  The  dragoons,  after  dismounting, 
held  the  horses  by  the  bridle,  while  a wide  band  was 
placed  under  the  body  of  the  animals  and  secured  ; 
the  next  instant  they  were  raised  from  the  ground 
and  hoisted  on  board  the  vessel.  Their  struggles 
lasted  only  for  a moment,  when  they  gave  themselves 
up  unresistingly  to  the  power  which  controlled  their 
actions,  and  remained  perfectly  quiescent  while  sway- 
ing in  the  air,  and  until  set  down  upon  the  deck  of 
the  vessel.  In  tiiis  manner  an  entire  regiment  of 
dragoons  was  taken  on  board  in  an  almost  incredible 
short  space  of  time.  We  returned  to  our  steamer 
before  the  troops  had  all  embarked  ; and  as  we  came 
down  on  the  wharf  the  Colonel  of  an  infantry  regi- 
ment courteously  directed  its  ranks  to  be  opened, 
through  which  we  p ssed,  and  were  soon  on  board 
our  vessel,  in  a short  time  thereafter  the  French 
steamers,  crowded  witli  soldiers,  began  to  move  from 
the  harbor,  passing  near  by,  thus  yielding  us  another 
opportunity  of  seeing  the  troops  on  their  way  to  the 


FROM  MARSEILLES  TO  MALTA. 


81 


Beat  of  war.  The  inspiring  and  soul-stirring  music, 
which  rose  from  the  bands  on  the  various  vessels  as 
they  swept  past,  }7ielded  additional  interest,  to  the 
scene.  The  officers  and  men  all  seemed  in  high 
spirits,  although  little  enthusiasm  was  manifested 
by  the  people  on  shore.  This  apparent  indifference 
on  the  part  of  the  populace  at  the  departure  of  the 
soldiers  is  attributed,  as  I vras  informed,  to  an  appre- 
hension of  the  citizens  that  the  war  will  have  a disas- 
trous effect  on  their  commerce  ; besides,  it  is  said 
that  Louis  Napoleon  was  never  very  highly  esteemed 
by  the  inhabitants  of  Marseilles.  The  scene  which  I 
had  witnessed  was,  to  ine,  brilliant  and  imposing,  and 
believing  that  France  is  in  the  right,  I wished  the 
army  success  with  all  my  heart. 

We  left  the  harbor  at  five  o’clock,  p.  m.,  and  on 
every  side  of  us  the  sea  was  covered  with  steamers 
and  other  craft,  loaded  down  to  the  water’s  edge 
with  troops,  horses,  provisions  and  munitions  of  war 
of  every  description. 

We  are  having  a most  delightful  voyage.  The 
wind  is  favorable,  and  we  are  making,  as  the  captain 
reports,  thirteen  knots  an  hour.  We  sailed  this  day 
through  the  straits  of  Bonifacio,  between  Sardinia 
and  Corsica,  both  islands  being  in  full  view,  and  also 
passed  through  a narrow  passage  separating  a cluster 
of  Sardinian  islands  from  the  main  land.  Some  of 
the  islands  were  inhabited  and  cultivated,  and  others 
Duly  barren  clumps  of  rocks.  We  were  for  a short 
time  in  the  midst  of  these  islands,  which  rose  on  every 
side  of  us,  so  that  the  sea  had  the  appearance  of  being 
a river  or  lake. 

In  sailing  over  these  ancient  and  classic  waters, 
which  have  been  the  scene  of  many  thrilling  histori- 
cal events,  where  millions  of  lives  have  been  lost  in 
numerous  brilliant  naval  combats,  one’s  mind  is  tilled 
with  pleasing  and  yet  melancholy  reflections.  Whilst 

4* 


82 


FKOM  MARSEILTES  TO  MALTA. 


I am  writing,  the  cry  of  the  seamen  on  deck  proclaims 
that  Sicily  is  in  sight.  Indeed,  we  no  sooner  lost 
sight  of  one  island  than  we  come  within  that  of  ano- 
ther. For  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  we  sailed 
along  the  coast  of  Sardinia — the  mountains  rising 
from  the  sea-sliore,  several  hundred  feet  in  height. 
There  was  apparently  but  one  level  space  to  be 
seen,  sufficiently  large  for  a town,  on  that  part 
of  the  island,  which  was  occupied  by  a small  vil- 
lage. 

The  large  towns  are  situated  on  the  opposite  or 
southern  side  of  the  island.  We  sailed  about  one 
hundred  and  eighty  miles  along  the  coast  of  Sicily, 
and  within  view  of  Marsala,  Givgenti,  and  Palma. 
They  are  all  handsome  towns.  We  passed,  on  our 
way  Mantione,  a small  island,  rising  to  the  height  of 
five  hundred  feet  above  tide  water,  and  upon  the  sum- 
mit of  one  of  its  most  inaccessible  and  barren  clumps 
of  rocks,  at  the  height  of  one  hundred  feet  from  the 
level  of  the  sea,  stands  the  castle  or  prison,  of  which 
much  has  been  said  and  written,  where  the  Neapoli- 
tan government  confines  its  prisoners  charged  with 
high  offences.  Entrance  to  the  prison  is  had  only 
through  a cove,  accessible  by  small  boats,  from  whence 
steps  cut  in  the  rock  lead  up  to  doors  ; and  when  once 
the  bolts  are  turned  upon  a prisoner  all  hopes  ot*  his 
escape  are  at  an  end. 

A short  distance  to  the  east  of  this  strong  prison 
at  the  base  of  the  mountain,  is  a small  village,  con- 
taining from  twenty  to  thirty  houses.  This  is  the 
only  spot  on  the  entire  island  at  all  capable  of  culti 
vation. 


MALTA. 


83 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

MALTA. 


Harbor  of  Malta — John  de  la  Y alette—  streets — Palace — Library— E.'  ly 
History — St.  Paul’s  Shipwreck — Productions — Character  of  the  Maltese-  - 
Cathedral  of  St.  John — Crusaders— Knights  of  Malta— Battle  of  Acre- 
Treaty  of  Amicus. 


We  arrived  at  Malta  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morn- 
ing of  the  first  of  May.  The  approach  to  the  city  of 
Valetta,  its  capital,  is  exceedingly  picturesque  and 
beautiful.  The  fortifications,  close  to  which  vessels 
entering  the  harbor  must  pass,  are  impregnable,  and 
sufficiently  formidable  to  annihilate*  the  most  power- 
ful naval  force  that  could  be  sent  against  it.  There 
are  two  harbors,  separated  from  each  other  by  a nar- 
row neck  of  land,  containing  about  five  hundred  and 
fifty  acres,  on  which  the  city  is  built,  consequently 
the  town  is  almost  surrounded  by  water.  The  har- 
bor possesses  great  advantages,  and  the  shores  are  so 
bold  that  a line  of  battle  ships  might  lie  close  beside 
them. 

The  first  stone  of  this  beautiful  city  was  laid  by 
the  Grand  Master  John  de  la  Valette,  in  a.  d.  1566. 
Tiie  streets  intersect  each  other  at  right  angles,  and 
the  town  being  built  on  an  elevation  most  of  the  trans- 
verse streets  are  constructed  with  flight  of  steps  from 
the  wharves.  The  houses  are  low,  rarely  exceeding 
two  stories  in  height,  are  built  of  the  stone  found  on 
the  island,  and  are  provided  with  window  balconies 
and  flat  terraced  roofs.  The  city  is  supplied  with  wa- 
ter from  extensive  cisterns,  and  by  meaus  of  an  aque- 
duct. The  streets  are  wide  and  well  paved.  The  pa- 


* This  was  written  before  Erricsson  had  given  us  the  Monitor. 


84 


MALTA. 


lace  occupied  by  the  Governor  was  formerly  the  resi- 
dence of  the  Grand  Master  of  the  Order  of  Malta, 
and  is  a large,  quadrangular  building,  containing  a 
spacious  court  yard  in  the  centre.  There  is  a library 
of  forty  thousand  volumes,  that  belonged  to  the 
Knights,  in  a g«>od  state  of  preservation,  which  is 
worthy  of  attention,  not  only  for  its  antiquity,  but  on 
account  of  the  many  scarce  and  valuable  works  it 
contains.  The  hotels  are  most  of  them  large  and 
handsome  buildings,  and  are  all  well  kept.  We  were 
supplied,  while  at  Malta,  with  fresh  vegetables  and 
excellent  fruit  for  which  the  island  is  justly  celebra- 
ted. At  the  period  the  Knights  took  possession  of 
the  island,  according  to  the  account  of  their  historians, 
there  was  only  one  town  upon  it,  this  was  called  Cetta 
Naleble,  now  Cetta  Viehia,  styled  by  them  a miser- 
able, half  deserted  place.  The  entire  population  of 
the  island  at  that  time  was  le6S  than  twelve  thousand, 
and  these,  as  they  said,  were  poor  and  wretched,  owing 
to  the  barrenness  of  the  soil.  If  such  were  its  con- 
dition at  that  period,  there  must  have  been  a great 
falling  off  in  its  prosperity,  for  Diodorus  Siculus 
states  that,  in  his  day,  it  was  furnished  with  several 
harbors,  that  the  inhabitants  were  very  rich,  and  pos- 
sessed the  knowledge  of  many  of  the  useful  arts. 
Among  the  artificers  were  excellent  weavers  of  fine 
linen,  the  houses  were  stately  and  beautiful,  and  the 
inhabitants  came  from  Phoenicia,  which  had  ever 
been  famous  for  the  extent  and  active  nature  of  its 
commerce.  Hence  it  is  said  by  those  who  hold  that 
when  Paul  was  shipwrecked,  at  the  time  he  was  sent  pri- 
soner to  home,  that  this  occurred  on  the  island  of  Me- 
lita,  now  known  as  Melida,  in  the  Adriatic  sea,  and 
not  Malta,  for  the  inhabitants  of  that  island  answered 
to  the  description  of  the  barbarous  people,”  among 
whom  he  fell,  while  those  of  Malta,  according’  to 
Diodorus  Siculus  were  uuder  a high  state  of  civilizu- 


MALTA. 


85 


lion  at  that  period.  Moreover,  they  urge  that  St. 
Paul  “fell  into  a place  where  two  seas  met,”  which 
they  maintain  must  have  been  Melida,  for  that  island 
js  washed  by  the  Adriatic  on  one  side  and  the  Medi- 
terranean on  the  other  ; while  Malta  lies  in  the  mid- 
dle of  the  latter  sea.  But,  notwithstanding  all  that 
has  been  said ,pro  and  con , on  this  subject,  the  mass 
of  evidence  seems  to  be  in  favor  of  the  island  of 
Malta.  For  many  centuries  the  Bay  of  St.  Paul,  in 
the  island  of  Malta,  has  been  regarded  as  the  place 
where  that  event  occurred.  We  sailed  insight  of  the 
Bay,  and  but  a short  distance  from  it.  There  is  here 
ft  small  river  or  creek  entering  the  sea,  and  upon  the 
h or th  point  of  land  which  crowns  the  bay,  the  Knights 
of  St.  John  erected  a church,  called  St.  Paul’s,  to 
commemorate  that  event.  The  island  was  granted  to 
the  knights  by  Charles  the  Fifth,  when  they  were  ex- 
pelled from  Rhodes,  and  it  was  held  by  them  from 
1530  to  1798. 

The  western  part  of  the  island  has  little  land  ca- 
pable of  cultivation;  but  it  abounds  with  odoriferous 
plants,  and  has  extensive  salt  works.  The  eastern 
portion,  which  is  by  far  the  largest,  is  very  fertile, 
and  produces  great  quantities  of  cotton,  lemons, 
oranges,  almonds  and  grapes.  This  island  is  subject, 
to  the  sirocco — a south-east  wind  which  is  very  op- 
pressive, and  enervating  in  its  character.  We  were, 
however,  favored  with  mild  weather  while  we  were 
in  its  neighborhood — the  thermometer  standing  at 
about  75  degrees. 

The  Maltese  sustain  the  reputation  of  an  honest,  in- 
dustrious, and  frugal  race  of  men.  They  have  always 
preserved  their  original  character,  which  sufficiently 
proves  their  descent,  and  at  the  same  time  shows  they 
have  mixed  very  little  with  any  ot  the  various  people 
who  have  at  times  governed  the  country.  The  popu- 
lation comprises  Jews,  Maltese,  Greeks,  Turks,  lta- 


86 


MALTA. 


lians,  arid  English.  The  common  people  speak  the 
Arabic,  but  the  higher  classes,  especially  those  which 
reside  in  the  city,  the  Italian  and  English  languages. 
The  town  has  the  reputation  of  being  a gay  and  in- 
teresting place.  Its  commercial  activity,  and  its  cen- 
tral situation  in  the  Mediterranean,  combine  to  make 
it  a place  of  resort  for  all  nations. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  John,  which  occupies  a con- 
spicuous position  in  the  city,  is  a vast,  but  remarkably 
plain  and  unostentatious  appearing  editice.  Within 
it  is  a spacious  oblong  aria,  on  each  side  of  which  are 
aisles,  with  especial  altars  or  chapels  of  the  different 
nations  composing  the  order,  adorned  with  paintings 
and  sculpture.  The  pavement  is  richly  emblazoned 
in  mosaic  with  the  armorial  bearings  of  the  Knights 
of  St.  John.  This  celebrated  order  had  its  origin  in 
the  hospital  of  St.  John,  which  was  erected  in  Jeru- 
salem iu  1018,  through  the  pious  care  of  some  Italian 
merchants,  for  the  entertainment  of  poor  and  sick  pil- 
grims. The  fraternal  love  and  devotedness  with  which 
they  tended  on  those  who  required  their  assistance, 
led  to  the  endowment  of  the  hospital,  with  rich  man- 
ors, in  every  part  of  Europe,  and  at  the  time  the 
Christians  captured  Jerusalem,  many  of  the  Crusaders 
entered  the  order,  and  it  became  a regular  incorpor- 
ated monastic  society,  with  obligatory  laws  and  regu- 
lations, and  branch  establishments  in  different  parts 
of  the  world.  Military  duties,  at  an  early  period, 
were  added  to  their  peaceful  vocations,  and  their  mi- 
litary exploits,  wealth  and  influence,  soon  placed 
them  in  the  front  ranks  of  Christendom.  The  order 
bears  the  various  titles  of  Knights  Hospitallers  of  St. 
John,  Knights  of  Rhodes,  and  Knights  of  Malta.  The 
lirst  they  acquired  while  at  Jerusalem,  the  second  du- 
ring their  sojourn  in  Rhodes,  and  the  third  when  they 
went  to  Malta.  From  the  time  of  the  origin  of  the 
order  down  to  the  period  of  their  defeat  at  Acre, 


ALEXANDRIA  IN  EGYPT. 


87 


where  the  survivors — a mere  handful  of  the.  gallant 
band  that  went  into  battle,  only  seven  in  number — 
retired,  covered  with  wounds  and  glory,  from  the 
smoking  ruins  of  that  ill-fated  city,  their  last  strong- 
hold in  Palestine,  their  history  in  that  land  was  one 
of  untiring  exertion  and  unsurpassed  bravery. 

The  defense  of  Malta  by  them  in  1565,  under  their 
Grandmaster,  La  Yalette,  was  not  less  celebrated  than 
that  of  Rhodes.  This  noble  battle  was  the  last  of 
their  military  achievements,  for  they  surrendered  to 
Napoleon  in  1793,  almost  without  striking  a blow. 
The  treaty  of  Amiens  contemplated  the  restoration 
of  the  order  ; but  war  broke  out  afresh,  and  the  treaty 
of  Paris,  in  1814,  ceded  Malta,  with  its  dependencies, 
to  the  British  crown.  Since  then  only  the  shadow  of 
the  order  has  lingered  upon  the  earth. 


CHAPTER  XYIII. 

ALEXANDRIA  IN  EGYPT. 

Arrival  at  Alexandria— Egyptian  Darkness  -Pompey’s  Pillar— Island  of  Pha- 
ros—Its  Lighthouse— The  Harbour -Strabo’s  Description  of  the  City — 
Its  Four  Gates  -Its  Commerce-  Feast  Day— Pilgrims— Amusements — Night 
-Ancient  Queens— Aqueduct -Cleopatra's  Needle — Antiquarian  Research 
_ Ruins— Catacombs— Sepulchres— Present  City— Courteous  Treatment. 

In  resuming  onr  voyage,  after  our  visit  to  the  beau- 
tiful island  of  Malta,  our  sailing  course  for  the  re- 
mainder of  the  distance  was  one  point  south  of  east. 
We  arrived  at  Alexandria  after  a pleasant  and  agree- 
able trip.  Most  of  the  passengers  on  board  were 
bound  for  the  East  Indies,  and,  as  we  proposed  to  stop 
at  Alexandria,  we  took  leave  of  them  with  much  re- 
gret, wishing  them  all  health,  happiness,  and  a speedy 
return  to  their  families  and  friends. 

Our  passage  from  Marsailles  to  Alexandria  occu- 


88 


ALEXANDRIA.  IN  EGYPT. 


pied  six  days ; but  the  harbor  being  a difficult  one  to 
enter  after  sundown,  and  our  captain  being  unwilling 
to  encounter  their  “ Egyptian  darkness,”  which  is 
truly  intense,  the  anchors  were  cast  for  the  night. 
We  made  our  way  into  the  harbor  at  an  early  hour 
the  following  morning.  I went  upon  deck  as  I heard 
the  sailors  moving,  and  gazed  in  every  direction  upon 
the  shore,  in  hopes  to  catch  a view  of  Pompey’s  Pil- 
lar, as  do  many  travellers  when  first  they  look  upon 
this  oriental  city.  I had  been  led  to  believe  that  the 
famous  pillar  stood  beside  the  sea-shore;  but  such  is 
not  the  case.  It  is  situated  within  the  limits  of  the 
old  city,  and  consequently  the  summit  of  it  only  can 
be  seen  towering  above  the  dwellings  which  surround 
the  harbor. 

I next  directed  my  attention  to  the  island  of  Pharos, 
where  the  ancient  kings  of  Egypt  had  planted  their 
military  colony  to  protect  the  coast  against  the  inroads 
of  the  Greek  pirates,  and  where,  also,  the  celebrated 
light-house  stood,  which  was  considered  one  of  the 
wonders  of  the  world.  It  was  five  hundred  feet  in 
height.  Pharos  has  for  centuries,  6ince  the  construc- 
tion of  that  edifice,  been  used  to  express  the  word 
light-house,  and  it  is  even  now  significant  of  light  in 
the  English  language.  The  channel  between  the  city 
and  the  island  is  upward  of  a mile  in  width.  The 
island  itself  is  of  an  oblong  form,  and  performs  the 
part  of  a breakwater  to  the  harbor.  The  causeway 
which  the  ancients  erected  centuries  ago,  in  order  to 
connect  the  island  with  the  city7,  is  now  filled  up,  and 
has  become  a solid  mass  of  earth  and  stone.  It  di- 
vides the  harbor  into  two  parts.  Before  the  construc- 
tion of  this  embankment,  vessels  entering  port  from 
the  southwest  side  could  pass  out  on  the  northeast, 
and  vice  versa  j but  now  a vessel  lying  in  the  north- 
western harbor  bound  on  a northeasterly  voyage,  must 
first  sail  around  the  island  in  order  to  reach  that  part 


ALEXANDRIA  IN  EGYPT. 


89 


of  the  Mediterranean  called  the  Egyptian  sea,  through 
which  its  course  lies. 

We  entered  the  southwestern  harbor,  which  is  not 
only  very  capacious,  but  a perfectly  secure  port.  It 
was  tilled  with  vessels  from  all  parts  of  the  world, 
e asily  distinguishable  from  each  other  by  their  na- 
lional  flags,  which  were  all  unfurled  to  the  hreeze,  in 
consequence  of  the  day  being  the  great  Ramadan 
feast,  called  the  “ Breaking  of  the  Fast.” 

Strabo,  in  describing  this  city,  as  it  existed  in  his 
day,  says,  two  seas  wash  its  sides,  the  one  on  the  north 
being  called  the  Egyptian,  and  that  on  the  south 
known  as  Lake  Mereotes,  which  is  six  hundred  miles 
in  circumference.  The  city  was,  as  he  states,  in  the 
form  of  a Macedonian  mantle,  of  which  the  two 
largest  sides  were  bathed  with  the  waves  of  the  sea 
on  the  one  side  and  with  those  of  the  lake  on  the 
other.  The  entire  town  was  intersected  by  two  spa- 
cious streets,  through  which  chariots  freely  passed. 
Thereby  the  historian  conveys  the  idea  that  the  other 
streets  were  too  narrow  for  that  purpose.  The  streets 
ran  at  right  angles  with  each  other,  and  were  of  great 
width,  and  the  point  of  their  intersection  formed  a 
great  square.  In  this  open  space  Pompey’s  Pillar 
stands,  three-quarters  of  a mile  from  the  sea-shore, 
and  a like  distance  from  the  lake.  At  each  of  the  ex- 
tremitiesof  these  streets  stood  the  four  principal  gates 
of  the  city ; the  Canopia  on  the  east  side,  the  hlicro- 
polis  on  the  southwest,  and  the  Sun  and  the  Moon,  at 
the  end  of  the  streets  running  from  the  sea  to  the 
lake. 

Ships  lying  in  the  harbor  on  the  lake  side  could  be 
seen  from  the  harbor  on  the  sea  shore,  and  vice  versa . 
The  port  on  the  lake,  according  to  our  above  quoted 
authority,  was  more  commodious  and  far  richer  than 
the  beautiful  harbor  formed  by  the  Isle  of  Pharos. 
This  was  owing  to  the  circumstance  that  the  commerce 


90 


ALEXANDRIA  IN  EGYPT. 


of  the  whole  of  Egypt  with  the  East  Indies  passed 
over  the  lake.  It  is  well  known  that  the  East  India 
trade,  at  all  times,  enriched  those  who  carried  it  on. 
This  was  the  chief  fountain  of  the  costly  treasures 
which  Solomon  amassed,  and  which  enabled  him  to 
build  the  magnificent  temple  at  Jerusalem.  It  made 
wealthy  the  Tyrians,  who  enjoyed  this  trade  beyond 
that  of  any  other  nation  on  the  globe.  When  the 
Ptolomies  had  made  themselves  masters  of  Egypt  they 
soon  drew  die  whole  of  this  trade  into  their  own  king- 
dom, by  building  Berinice  and  other  ports  on  the  Red 
Sea,  and  establishing  their  chief  mart  at  this  empori- 
um. All  the  traffic  which  the  western  world  then  had 
with  Persia,  India,  Arabia,  and  the  eastern  coast  of 
Africa,  was  wholly  transacted  through  this  great  lake, 
thereby  enriching  Alexandria,  and  rendering  it  the 
wealthiest  city  in  the  world.  At  length  the  route  by 
the  way  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope  was  discovered 
and  opened.  The  eastern  commerce  was  then,  for  a 
century,  engrossed  by  the  Portuguese,  and  the  period 
of  their  rule  was  appropriately  termed  the  golden 
age  of  Portugal,  and  Lisbon  was  styled  the  India  of 
^Northern  Europe.  This  trade  is  now  no  longer  a mon- 
opoly belonging  to  any  one  company  or  nation  ; but 
is  open  to  the  entire  world.  But  as  the  railroad  is 
now  completed  between  Alexandria  a;id  Suez,  owing 
to  the  enterprise  and  capital  of  Great  Britain,  this 
trade,  or  a very  large  part  of  it,  may  once  more  find 
its  way  through  this  ancient  city. 

W e were  fortunate  in  arriving  at  Alexandria  on  the 
day  of  its  great  May  festival,  which,  this  year,  was 
celebrated  with  more  than  usual  oriental  magnificence. 
Its  incoming  was  announced  the  evening  previous  by 
a discharge  of  cannon  from  all  the  fortifications  and 
armed  vessels  in  the  harbor,  just  before  we  had  cast 
anchor. 

!Not  far  distant  from  the  city  was  an  encampment 


ALEXANDRIA.  IN  EGYPT. 


91 


of  soldiers,  with  tents  of  various  colors,  and  marques 
for  the  Pasha  and  persons  of  distinction,  of  unequalled 
splendor.  The  Arabic  burying  ground,  and  the  sub- 
urbs of  the  city,  were  thronged  with  pilgrims  on  their 
way  to  Mecca  ; but  who  had  halted  for  the  purpose 
of  participating  in  the  festival. 

Persons  of  all  ages,  sexes,  and  conditions,  dressed 
in  their  richest  costumes,  and  which  to  us  seemed  ex- 
ceedingly fantastic,  were  moving  to  and  fro — some 
toward  the  military  encampment  and  others  toward 
the  Arabian  burying  grounds  to  visit  the  pilgrims  who 
there  encamped.  Some  on  donkeys  and  some  in  or- 
dinary wagons,  without  bodies,  seated  back  to  back, 
with  their  feet  hanging  down  outside.  There  were  a 
few  elegant  carriages  ; but  by  far  the  larger  part  of 
the  population  was  on  foot.  A dress  military  parade 
formed  part  of  the  exercises,  and  the  troops  marched 
through  the  great  square  to  the  parade  ground.  We 
rode  through  the  city,  or  that  portion  of  it  where  the 
streets  were  sufficiently  wide  to  permit  the  passage  of 
a carriage,  in  order  to  examine  the  site  of  the  ancient 
gates,  palaces,  etc.  The  people  were  collected  in 
great  numbers  at  various  points  on  the  route,  witness- 
ing the  remarkable  legerdemain  tricks  or  feats  of  jug- 
glers, which  seemed  to  delight  them  exceedingly, 
borne  of  the  strollers  performed  on  the  tight  rope, 
others  recited  fables  and  stories  tro  vast  crowds,  not 
unlike  those  related  in  the  “ Arabian  Nights.”  These 
eastern  jugglers  are  particularly  distinguished  for 
their  extraordinary  feats,  of  which  some  of  the  most 
famous  are  swallowing  swords,  catching  sharp  knives 
thrown  into  the  air,  and  cutting  off,  apparently,  an 
arm  from  a living  person  and  restoring  it  so  that  it  is 
quite  as  good  as  a new  one  ought  to  be.  This  optical 
illusion  is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  feats  1 ever 
witnessed.  Everything,  so  far  as  i could  ascertain, 
passed  off  pleasantly.  There  was  no  disorderly  con- 


92 


ALEXANDRIA  IN  EGYPT. 


duct,  no  drunkenness  in  the  streets  ; but  all  the  people 
appeared  happy,  and  rejoiced  that  their  sovereign  per- 
mitted them  thus  to  enjoy  this  great  festival. 

As  soon  as  night  came  the  streets  were  instantly 
quiet,  for  no  person  is  then  allowed  to  be  abroad  with- 
out a pass,  and  even  then  he  must  bear  with  him  a 
lighted  lamp.  The  cry  of  the  watchmen,  “ Whaka ,” 
—all’s  well — is  heard  every  quarter  of  an  hour  dur- 
ing the  night. 

In  our  rambles  through  the  city  and  its  surround- 
ings we  could  discern  but  few  marks  of  the  magnifi- 
cence which  belonged  to  it  when  it  was  the  great  city 
of  the  conqueror  of  Asia,  the  emporium  of  the  east, 
and  the  chosen  theatre  of  the  luxurious  Queens  of 
Rome  and  Egypt.  There  are  no  traces  remaining  of 
its  grand  temples,  and  other  ornamental  edifices  ; al- 
though some  parts  of  the  old  wall  of  the  city  are  still 
standing,  flanked  with  large  towers,  at  the  distance 
of  two  hundred  paces  from  each  other,  with  smaller 
intermediate  ones.  The  reservoir,  vaulted  with  much 
skill,  and  extending  under  the  city,  is  almost  entire. 
This  great  work  was  constructed  upwards  of  two  thou- 
sand years  ago,  and  the  arches  are  at  this  day  so  per 
feet  that  I have  no  doubt  they  will  stand  for  two  thou- 
sand years  to  come.  Csesar,  in  speaking  of  this  work 
in  his  Commentaries,  says : — u The  city  is  almost  quite 
hollow  underneath,- occasioned  by  the  many  aqueducts 
to  the  Nile  that  furnish  private  houses  with  water : 
where,  being  received  in  cisterns,  is  settled  by  de- 
grees, and  becomes  perfectly  clear.  This  is  preserved 
for  the  use  of  the  master  and  his  family  ; for,  the 
water  of  the  Nile  being  extremely  muddy,  is  apt  to 
breed  many  distempers.  The  common  people,  how- 
ever, are  forced  to  content  themselves  with  it,  for 
there  is  not  a single  spring  in  the  city/’ 

buch  wTas  the  condition  of  the  aqueduct  in  his  day, 
as  we  have  it  from  under  his  own  hand.  The  site  of 


ALEXANDRIA  IN  EGYPT. 


93 


Caesar’s  palace  is  pointed  out,  and  a part  of  the  wall 
still  remaining.  There  is,  however,  nothing  left  of 
Cleopatra’s  palace,  which  fronted  the  northeast  har- 
bor. Here  are  the  two  obelisks,  called  Cleopatra’s 
needles ; they  are  of  Egyptian  marble,  and  covered 
with  hieroglyphics.  These,  according  to  tradition, 
were  brought  either  from  ileliopoles  or  Thebes,  to 
adorn  the  entrance  of  the  palace  of  the  Ptolomies. 
One  of  them  is  still  standing,  the  other,  which  is  pros- 
trate, was  given  to  the  British  Government,  by  the 
Viceroy  of  Egypt;  but  it  has  not,  as  yet,  been  re- 
moved to  London.  These  are  each  a single  stone,  and 
are  about  sixty  feet  in  height  by  seven  feet  square  at 
the  base. 

We  visited  Pompey’s  Piliar  several  times.  It  stands 
upon  a pedestal  twelve  feet  high.  The  shaft  is  round, 
and  about  ninety  feet  in  length.  It  is  surmounted  by 
a beautiful  Corinthian  capital,  which  adds  ten  feet 
more  to  its  altitude.  The  foundation  is  beginning  to 
give  way,  and  unless  this  is  repaired  there  is  danger  of 
its  falling  at  no  distant  day.  Mr.  Salt,  a distinguished 
antiquarian  writer,  seeks  to  prove  that  it  was  erected 
by  Psamaticus,  one  of  the  sovereigns  of  Egypt,  and 
long  before  Pompey’s  days. 

If  such  were  tiie  case  it  must  have  been  removed 
either  from  the  city  of  Heliopoles,  or  some  other  one 
of  the  cities  in  Egypt,  for  Psamaticus  reigned  four 
hundred  and  one  years  before  the  Christian  era,  and 
sixty  nine  before  the  city  of  Alexandria  was  built. 
This  order  of  architecture  was  invented  by  Callimac- 
hus of  Corinth,  five  hundred  and  forty  years  before 
Christ,  consequently  the  column  might  have  been 
erected  by  that  sovereign  in  some  other  city,  but  not 
on  the  spot  where  it  now  stands  The  earliest  authen- 
ticated structure  of  this  order,  now  standing,  how- 
ever, is  the  monument  at  Athens,  to  the  memory  ol 
Sy  sc  rates,  335  b.g. 


94: 


ALEXANDRIA  IN  EGYPT. 


On  each  side  of  what  is  represented  by  the  citizens 
of  tli is  ancient  town  to  have  been  one  of  the  princi- 
pal streets,  are  still  to  be  seen  overthrown  columns, 
the  ruins  of  a magnificent  colonade  which  extended 
between  the  gates  of  the  Sun  and  the  Moon,  and  was 
regarded  as  the  most  beautiful  and  imposing  orna- 
ment of  the  place.  The  remains  of  the  mighty  city 
is  discernable  for  miles,  and  may  be  traced,  in  every 
direction,  by  heaps  of  bricks  and  mortar,  mingled  with 
broken  marble  shafts,  and  elaborately  carved  capitals. 
Most  of  this  desolation  is  attributed  to  the  effects  of 
the  fatal  earthquake  which  swallowed  fifty  thousand 
of  its  inhabitants,  and  threw  down  the  loftiest  of  their 
edifices.  The  sight  of  these  vast  ruins  produces  on 
the  mind  of  the  beholder  reflections  of  a melancholy 
and  suggestive  character.  Was  the  event  a judgment 
sent  by  Heaven  upon  its  people  for  their  wickedness  ? 
and  if  so,  are  the  inhabitants  of  my  own  country  ex- 
empt from  a similar  punishment,  whether  it  comes  in 
the  form  of  an  earthquake,  a famine,  or  a war?  I 
could  not  but  ask  myself  this  question  while  gazing 
around  me,  and  while  I felt  that  our  nation  had  not, 
for  the  eighty  years  of  its  existence,  lived  sinless  ; yet 
I could  earnestly  pray  that  my  beloved  land  might 
never  be  overthrown  and  destroyed,  either  by  natural 
causes,  outward  violence,  or  civil  strife. 

In  passing  over  and  amidst  the  ruins  of  this  once 
noble  city  the  tourists  vainly  ask  of  the  citizens 
who  now  fill  its  thoroughfares,  to  point  out  the  sites 
of  its  great  libraries  and  colleges  for  which,  in  earlier 
days,  it  was  so  highly  distinguished,  but,  alas!  even 
the  memory  of  them  is  unknown  to  the  present  inhab- 
itants. The  catacombs  are  most  extensive;  but  they 
present  nothing  very  remarkable  excepting  their 
arched  roofs.  . Some  of  those  situated  near  the  sea- 
shore are  exposed  -to  view,  and  although  they  have 
been  built  for  ages  are  yet  in  good  condition.  The 


ALEXANDRIA  IN  EGYPT. 


95 


original  entrance  to  the  catacombs  lias  not  been  dis- 
covered. The  present  passage  into  them  opens  to- 
wards the  sea,  and  at  no  great  distance  from  the  beach. 

The  Bedouins  residing  near,  it  not  within  them,  furn- 
ished us  with  lights,  and  conducted  us  through  such 
of  the  chambers  as  were  accessible;  but  most  ot 
them  are  choked  up  with  sand,  and  the  only  way  to 
effect  an  entrance  is  on  one’s  hands  and  knees.  There- 
fore we  did  not  attempt  to  explore  them. 

We  examined,  within  the  walls  of  the  city,  and  at 
no  great  distance  from  Pompey’s  Pillar,  extensive  sub- 
terranean excavations  which  were  no  doubt,  the  former 
sepulchres  of  the  distinguished  among  the  ancient  in- 
habitants; but  which  are  now  used  as  small  mosques. 
It  is  said  by  some  that  it  was  here  the  body  of  Al- 
exander the  Great  was  deposited  when  it  was  brought 
from  Babylon,  by  one  of  the  largest  and  most  magnifi- 
cent funeral  corteges  ever  known.  The  sarcophagus 
which  once  contained  the  body  of  this  renowned  war- 
rior is  now  in  the  British  Museum.  Dr.  Clarke,  a 
celebrated  oriental  traveller  and  antiquarian,  who  has 
given  much  attention  to  investigating  this  subject, 
entertains  no  doubt  of  the  identity  of  this  sarcophagus. 

. The  present  city  is  pleasantly  situated,  being  built 
partly  upon  the  island  of  Pharos,  and  partly  on  the 
great  embankment  which  connects  the  island  with  the 
old  town,  as  also  on  the  site  of  the  latter  town  itself, 
which  faces  and  surrounds  the  north-wTestern  harbor. 

The  great  square  is  situated  on  the  embankment. 
One  of  the  largest  and  most  gorgeously  furnished 
of  the  Pasha’s  palaces  stands,  in  full  view,  upon  the 
island  fronting  the  harbor  on  the  left  side  as  you  enter 
it  The  grounds  surrounding  the  edifice  are  under  a 
high  state  of  cultivation.  Many  of  the  hotels  are  on 
the  square.  The  Peninsular  and  Oriental  Hotel  cov- 
ers several  acres  of  ground,  and  has  a large  court- 
yard in  the  centre.  The  hotel  is  not,  however,  in  good 


90 


CAIRO. 


repair,  tut  it  is  well  kept,  and  we  were  received  by 
its  proprietors  with  much  kindness. 

We  attended  during  our  stay  here,  divine  service 
held  in  an  Episcopal  Church,  in  company  with  sever- 
al distinguished  British  officers  and  other  strangers* 
who  were  on  their  way  to  the  East  Indies.  W e were 
much  indebted  to  the  courtesy  and  kindness  of  Mr. 
A.  St.  John  Fossman,  of  the  Bank  of  Egypt,  and  his 
accomplished  wife,  during  our  sojourn  here,  for 
idaking  our  visit  agreeable.  We  passed  several  days 
in  a most  pleasing  manner,  and  our  friends  did  all  in 
their  power  to  cause  us  to  feel  quite  at  home. 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

CAIRO. 


Railroad  to  Cairo— The  Nile— Farming— Lower  Orders— Upper  Ten— Dwell- 
ings— Climate — Foundation  of  the  City — The  Present  Town— A Police 
Regulation  Quarter — Hotels — Bazaars  Mt.  Mokettain  - Joseph’s  Well — 
Palace  of  the  Pasha — Emier  Bey — Saladin — Mahomed  Ali. 

•'% 

We  left  Alexandria  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morn- 
ing by  railroad,  and  reached  Cairo,  a distance  of  two 
hundred  and  fifty  miles,  some  time  before  sunset  of 
the  same  day.  We  travelled  for  miles  along  the 
shore  of  Lake  Merotes,  and  at  no  great  distance 
from  the  canal  which  connects  the  Nile  with  Alexan- 
dria. The  railroad  bridge  over  the  Nile  is  not  yet 
finished,  and  we  were  consequently,  obliged  to  cro-s 
the  river  in  a ferry  boat,  during  the  hottest  part  of 
the  day,  the  thermometer  standing  at  ninety -five  de- 
grees in  the  shade.  We  fell  the  heat  most  oppres- 
sively when  descending  and  ascending  the  river  banks, 
in  passing  to  and  from  the  boat.  An  excellent  din- 
ner, got  up  in  true  English  sty  le,  and  accompanied  with 


CAIRO. 


97 


claret  and  ice,  was  provided  in  the  station-house,  for 
the  passengers.  It  was  served  by  both  Egyptian  and 
English  servants.  At  this  point  I drank  the  waters 
of  the  Nile  for  the  first  time  in  my  life. 

I observed  when  we  conrinued  on  oar  journey,  that 
the  farmers  everywhere  along  our  route  were  engaged 
in  harvesting  their  crops.  The  wheat  was  threshe  i 
on  the  ground,  for  there  are  no  barns  in  the  country, 
by  horses  which  were  tied  together  and  driven  round 
and  round  over  the  grain,  in  some  instances  drawing 
a rude  sled,  made  rough  at  the  bottom,  in  which  the 
driver  was  seated. 

The  Egyptians  depend  entirely  upon  the  river  for 
fertilizing  the  soil : rain  being  of  very  rare  occurrence 
in  Egypt,  except  in  that  part  of  it  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  Mediterranean,  sea.  As  the  seasons  are  rarely 
variable  in  their  character,  the  farmers  may  make 
their  arrangements  with  the  utmost  precision  regard- 
ing the  time  of  planting  and  gathering  their  crops. 
Their  duties  are  laborious  when,  as  sometimes  hap- 
pens, it  becomes  necessary  to  irrigate  their  crops  by 
raising  water  from  the  streams,  otherwise  they  are 
quite  light,  for,  as  their  land  is  not  fen  (fed,  they  have  no 
fences  to  make  and  keep  in  repair,  nor  are  they  obliged 
to  toil  during  summer  in  cutting  wood  for  winter  fuel, 
since  the  weather  is  always  mild,  and  little  fire  is  re- 
quired. Neither  are  they  obliged,  as  are  the  farm- 
ers with  us,  to  work  a portion  of  time  on  the  high- 
ways, since  there  are  none  in  the  country  to  require 
their  services. 

The  lower  order  of  the  Egyptian  Arabs  are  de- 
scribed as  a quiet,  inoffensive  people,  with  many  good 
qualities.  They  are  certainly  more  active  in  tlieir 
agricultural  pursuits  than  we  should  be  led  to  expect 
from  the  habits  of  the  larger  class  of  them,  residing 
in  towns,  and  from  the  circumstance  that  they  do  not 
own  the  laud  they  cultivate.  The  poorer  sort  seldom 

o 


98 


CAIRO. 


can  afford  to  eat  animal  food  ; but  subsist  chiefly  on 
rice,  dates,  gourds,  melons  and  milk.  Wine  is  pro- 
hibited to  every  believer  of  the  Prophet  Mahomet. 
Their  costume  is  remarkably  simple.  They  wear  a 
pair  of  drawers  and  a long,  full  shirt  or  gown  of  blue 
linen  or  cotton,  or  brown  woolen,  open  from  the  neck 
nearly  to  the  waist,  with  wide  flowing  sleeves.  Over 
this  gown  some  wear  a white  or  red  woolen  girdle 
wound  around  the  waist,  and  upon  the  head  a turban, 
formed  from  a w’hite,  red  or  yellow  wroolen  shawl ; 
but  many  of  the  people  are  so  poor  as  to  be  obliged 
to  wear  the  skirt  without  drawers.  Those  who  are 
able  add  to  their  personal  attire  red  or  yellow  mo- 
rocco sheepskin  shoes  or  slippers ; but  the  larger  pro- 
portion go  without  any.  The  dwellings,  except  those 
belonging.to  the  higher  class  of  the  people,  consist 
of  only  one  room,  built  with  mud,  and  containing  but 
little  furniture.  The  better  houses  have  a low  sofa, 
called  a divan,  extending  around  the  sides  of  the 
apartment.  When  taking  their  meals  they  seat  them- 
selves on  mats,  placed  upon  the  floor,  surrounding 
low  tables.  The  climate,  during  the  greater  part  of 
the  year,  is,  I am  assured  by  the  inhabitants,  salubri- 
ous. The  exhalations  rising  from  the  soil,  however, 
after  the  period  of  the  inundations  in  the  latter  part 
of  autumn,  make  the  country  less  healthy  than  it  is 
during  the  other  portions  of  the  year.  For  a period 
of  fifty  days,  called  El-Kum-’aseeny,  commencing  in 
April,  and  lasting  throughout  the  month  of  May,  hot, 
sultry  winds  occasionally  prevail  for  three  days  toge- 
ther. These  winds  seldom  cause  the  thermometer  to 
rise  above  ninety-five  degrees  in  lower  Egypt,  or  one 
hundred  and  five  degrees  in  the  upper  country  ; yet, 
while  they  prevail  the  heat  is  exceedingly  oppres- 
sive. We  journeyed  between  Alexandria  and  Cairo 
during  one  of  these  heated  terms. 

The  country  is  also  subject  during  the  spring  and 


CAIRO. 


99 


summer  months  to  hot  winds,  called  the  simoom 
which  are  still  more  oppressive  than  the  former,  al- 
though they  are  of  short  duration,  seldom  lasting  at 
any  one  time  longer  than  one  quarter  of  an  hour. 
This  wind  generally  arises  in  the  southwest,  and  is 
accompanied  with  clouds  of  dust  and  sand.  The 
thermometer,  during  the  winter  season  never  sinks 
below  fifty  degrees,  and  rarely  rises  above  sixty. 
During  the  night,  the  French  troops,  under  Napoleon, 
found  the  air  so  chilly  as  to  make  a fire  in  their  tents 
, necessary. 

Cairo  is  undoubtedly  the  largest  Arab  city  of  the 
present  day.  The  natives  regard  it  as  standing  with- 
out an  equal,  and  as  being  the  mother  of  the  world. 
It  is  certainly  not  an  ancient  city,  for  it  was  founded 
in  A.  D.  969,  by  the  First  Caleph  of  the  Fatimite 
dynasty,  and  Salaflin,  about  two  hundred  years  after- 
ward, built  the  ramparts  around  it.  This  is  the  only 
place  where  a complete  knowledge  of  the  most  civil- 
ized Arabs  can  be  obtained.  They  are  a fine  looking 
body  of  men,  and  those  who  have  not  been  exposed 
to  the  sun  have  a sallow  appearance  ; but  possess  a 
clear  complexion — the  others  are  of  a darker  and 
coarser  hue.  The  houses  in  the  city  are  well  built 
of  stone,  but  their  external  appearance  on  the  street 
is  exceedingly  gloomy  in  consequence  of  their  being 
without  front  windows,  the  interiors  being  lighted 
from  windows  which  open  into  the  back  courts  or 
quadrangles.  The  streets  are  narrow,  which  serves 
to  protect  the  inhabitants  from  the  full  effect  of  the 
meridian  sun,  and  the  more  effectually  to  accomplish 
th^s  a slight  canopy  is  extended  across  the  street 
from  house  top  to  house  top.  Most  of  the  streets  are 
provided  with  gates,  which  are  closed  as  soon  as  the 
darkness  of  the  night  comes.  A canal,  fifteen  to 
twenty  feet  wide,  runs  through  the  city,  supplied 
with  water  from  the  Nile.  There  are  several  hundred 
4 


100 


CAIRO. 


mosques  in  the  city  of  Cairo,  a few  of  which  arc 
splendid  editices,  adorned  with  antique  columns  of 
rare  beauty  brought  from  Heliopolis  and  Memphis. 
In  the  Frank  part  of  the  town  carriages  can  pass  free- 
ly ; but  most  of  the  streets  are  only  wide  enough  to 
admit  the  passage  of  persons  in  single  file  on  horse- 
back. This  city  is  surrounded  by  a wall,  with  nume- 
rous turrets.  The  gates  of  the  various  entrances  are 
clo-ed  at  night,  and  no  one  is  permitted  in  the  streets 
after  dark  without  he  has  a pass,  and  then  not  unless 
he  carries  a lighted  lamp.  The  police  regulations 
are  very  stringent,  and  the  punishment  for  a viola- 
tion of  the  law  is  exemplary  and  summary. 

The  town  is  divided  into  several  quarters,  among 
which  the  larger  and  most  populous  are  the  Jewish, 
the  Frank,  and  the  Copt.  The  population,  which  is 
nearly  three  hundred  thousand,  is*divided  into  Mos- 
lems, Egyptians,  Christians,  Turks,  Syrians,  Greeks, 
Armenians,  Franks  and  Copts.  The  latter  are  re- 
garded as  the  direct  descendants  of  the  true  Egyp- 
tians, and  possess  a sallow  complexion. 

There  are  several  large  and  expensively  constructed 
palaces,  and  a number  of  hotels— -the  latter  are  situ- 
ated on  the  public  square.  The  Shepherd  Hotel 
covers  several  acres  of  ground,  and  is  admirably  kept. 
We  put  up  at  this  grand  caravansary  while  we  so- 
journed in  this  city,  and  received  every  attention 
from  the  obliging  host  and  hostess,  whose  gracious 
and  agreeable  manners  are  admirably  adapted  to 
give  satisfaction  to  their  guests. 

The  bazaars  of  the  city  are  fashionable  places  of 
resort  for  strangers  and  citizens.  They  are  not,  how- 
ever, on  as  grand  a scale  as  those  at  Constantinople. 
The  display  of  goods  at  these  establishments  are  of 
the  richest  characters,  and  a brisk  and  profitable 
trade  is  carried  on  here  by  the  merchants,  many  of 
whom  have  amassed  large  fortunes.  Some  of  the 


GAIKO. 


101 


shops  are  tastefully  arranged,  but  all  are  exceedingly 
small. 

Mount  Mokettam  lies  to  the  east  of  the  city,  and 
runs  along  the  course  of  the  Nile  from  Cairo  to  Up- 
per Egypt : sometimes  receding  from  the  river,  leav- 
ing  a plain  three  miles  in  width,  and  at  other  points 
opposing  its  barren  rocks  to  the  stream.  Upon  its 
northern  extremity,  directly  east  of  the  city,  stands 
the  citadel  or  castle,  the  exterior  of  which  is  three 
miles  in  circumference.  Here  once  stood  an  ancient 
city.  The  road  leading  to  it  is  hewn  out  of  the  solid 
rock,  and  is  of  easy  ascent.  There  are  several  re- 
mains of  this  ancient  city  still  existing.  A number 
of  red  granite  pillars,  each  formed  from  one  piece, 
are  pointed  out  as  being  the  identical  columns  which 
supported  the  roof  of  Joseph’s  Hall,  which  is  said  to 
have  once  stood  on  this  hill.  Near  by  is  Joseph’s 
well,  which  is  two  hundred  and  seventy  feet  in  depth. 
The  palace  and  well  are  supposed  to  have  been  con- 
structed under  the  direction  of  Joseph  himself.  Among 
the  modern  edifices  is  a palace  of  the  Pasha,  and  one 
of  the  largest,  most  superb  and  richest  mosques  of 
Cairo,  built  of  oriental  alabaster.  It  stands  on  the 
north  side  of  a large  square,  ornamented  with  a foun- 
tain in  the  centre.  It  was  from  this  citadel  that  Emir 
Bey  escaped,  during  the  massacre  of  the  Mamelukes, 
under  the  order  of  Mahotnmed  Ali,  by  leaping  his 
horse  through  a gap  in  the  walls.  In  examining  the 
spot  it  seems  incredible  that  any  one  should  have 
had  the  temerity  to  have  attempted  such  a leap ; but 
certain  death  awaited  him  within,  and  he  doubtless 
considered  it  wiser  to  risk  perishing  by  seeking  to 
escape,  than  to  be  inhumanly  butchered  by  remain- 
ing, as  were  his  companions  in  arms.  The  walk  along 
the  ramparts  is  one  of  the  finest  that  can  be  con- 
ceived, commanding,  as  it  does,  the  most  extensive 
prospect  in  Egypt.  It  embraces  a view  of  the  site 


102 


HELIOPOLI8. 


of  the  city  of  Memphis,  the  Pyramids,  the  great  plain 
of  the  Nile,  where  Napoleon  fought  the  battle  of  the 
Pyramids,  leaving  three  thousand  of  the  enemy  slain 
on  the  field.  There  is  also  a view  of  Heliopolis, 
and  its  celebrated  obelisk,  still  standing  on  the  south 
side  of  the  river,  of  the  Cemetery  of  the  Mamelukes, 
of  the  several  palaces  surrounding  Cairo,  of  the  city 
itself,  with  its  pinnacles  and  towers,  lying  spread 
out  at  the  base  of  the  citadel  like  a map,  and  an  ex- 
tensive view  of  the  river  both  above  and  below  the 
city,  winding  its  way  towards  the  sea. 

Saladin,  in  his  day,  occupied  a palace  on  this  hill, 
and  in  removing  the  rubbish  of  the  old  city  he  dis- 
covered and  opened  the  well  of  Joseph,  which  had 
been  covered  up  for  centuries.  Mahomed  Ali  spends 
a part  of  his  time  in  this  palace,  but  he  usually  re- 
sides at  Shoubra,  where  he  built  a splendid  palace, 
and  planted  a garden,  after  the  European  fashion. 
The  interior  of  the  palace  is  richly  furnished. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

HELIOPOLIS. 


Bite  of  the  City — Its  Antiquities— Its  Ancient  Grandeur — Its  Origin — Our  Sa- 
viour— Plato — Its  Learning — Joseph  and  Mary — The  Fountain  of  the  Sun. 


The  site  of  the  ancient,  city  of  Heliopolis  is  about 
five  miles  from  the  citadel  of  Cairo,  and  I think  the 
city  formerly  extended  to,  and  included  the  citadel 
itself  within  its  limits.  We  rode  over  the  ground 
where  this  renowned  city  once  stood,  which,  in  its 
day,  was  one  of  the  most  extensive  and  richly  adorned 
of  any  in  Egypt.  Tt  was  called  Beth-shemesh  by  Je- 
remiah, the  prophet,  and  known  as  On,  the  city  of  the 


HELIOPOLIS. 


103 


priest,  whose  daughter  Joseph  married,  (Gen.  xli.45,) 
and  by  Septuagent  identified  with  Aven  (Ezekiel, 
xxx.  17,)  and  called  Heliopolis,  the  city  of  the  Sun, 
by  Herodotus.  There  are  several  granite  pillars  lying 
upon  the  ground  which  are  said,  to  have  belonged  to 
the  temple  of  Re,  celebrated  in  history  as  one  of  the 
- most  magnificent  temples  in  the  world.  It  was  adorned 
in  front  by  order  of  Sesostris  and  Ramises,  with  an 
extensive  avenue  of  phoenixes  and  sacred  obelisks. 
This  once  great  city  is  now  a crumbled  mass  of  ruins, 
buried  in  the  sands  of  the  desert,  which  have  en- 
croached upon  it,  leaving  nothing  of  its  princely  gran- 
deur except  a single  lofty  obelisk,  which  is  still  stand- 
ing, and  on  which  we  gazed  as  did  the  patriarch  Jo- 
seph, when  he  first  arrived  in  the  city,  three  thousand 
seven  hundred  and  forty-five  years  ago.  The  height 
of  this  obelisk  is  sixty-seven  feet,  and  its  breadth  six 
feet.  It  is  a solid  column  of  red  granite,  and  is  cov- 
ered with  hieroglyphics  which  record  the  name  of 
Osirtasen  the  First,  who  is  regarded  by  the  learned  to 
be  that  Pharaoh  whose  dream  Joseph  interpreted. 

. The  origin  of  this  once  great  metropolis,  as  like- 
wise that  of  the  citadel  at  Cairo,  is  lost  in  obscurity. 
This  was  the  chief  seat  of  learning  in  Egypt,  and  the 
priests  and  sheiks,  during  the  flourishing  ages  of  the 
Egyptian  monarchy,  here  acquired  and  taught  the  ele- 
ments of  knowledge  and  the  higher  branches,  within 
the  precincts  of  its  temples.  Cambysis,  King  of  Per- 
sia, waged  a sacrilegious  war  on  this  city,  burning 
the  temples,  despoiling  the  palaces,  and  destroying 
the  most  precious  monuments  of  antiquity. 

At  the  period  when  Strabo,  the  historian,  resided 
in  this  city,  soon  after  the  death  of  our  Saviour,  the 
apartments  were  shown  where  Plato  labored  to  learn 
the  philosophy  of  Egypt,  and  where  he,  no  doubt, 
obtained  all  the  knowledge  he  possessed  of  the  im- 
mortality of  the  soul. 


104 


HELIOPOLIS. 


Egfpt  has  ever  been  regarded  as  the  cradle  of  science, 
and  even  during  the  most  flourishing  period  of  the 
Grecian  Republic,  no  Greek  was  considered  truly 
learned  .until  he  had  sojourned  a certain  period  on 
the  banks  of  the  Nile,  and  particularly  within  the 
limits  of  Heliopolis. 

It  was  at  Heliopolis  that  tradition  asserts  that  Jo- 
seph and  Mary  rested  with  our  Saviour  on  their  es- 
cape from  Herod.  Here  yet  stands  the  sycamore  tree, 
or  some  portion  of  its  huge  trunk,  whose  wide  spread- 
ing branches  afforded  them  a shelter  from  the  meii- 
dian  sun  ; and  near  by  is  the  spring  of  pure  water 
where  they  satisfied  their  thirst  after  their  journey 
across  the  desert.  We  drank  the  water  of  this  cele- 
brated spring,  and  rested,  for  a while,  in  the  shadow 
of  this  ancient  tree.  Thousands  of  names  are  written 
on  its  trunk  in  every  language  and  character  of  which 
we  have  any  knowledge. 

The  spring,  the  placid  waters  of  which  once  re- 
flected the  countenance  of  our  Saviour,  is  called  even 
at  this  day  the  fountain  of  the  Sun. 

Most  readers  have  heard  the  story  related  by  Dyony- 
sius,  in  one  of  his  letters  to  a friend  : it  seems  he 
was  at  this  ancient  city  on  the  day  of  the  crucifixion 
of  our  Saviour,  when  a strange  darkness  of  the  hea- 
vens, not  unlike  an  eclipse  of  the  Sun  occurred,  upon 
which  he  turned  to  a friend  near  him  and  exclaimed  : 
“ either  the  Deity  is  suffering,  or  lie  is  sympathising 
with  the  sufferer.”  If  this  statement  be  true  it  is 
certainly  one  of  the  most  wonderful  testimonies  re- 
corded of  this  remarkable  event. 


MEMPHIS. 


105 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

MEMPHIS. 


Antiquity  of  this  City— Its  Great  Extent — The  Pyramids — Cheops-  Its  Cham- 
her.? — Around  the  Pyramids— Purpose  of  their  Construction— Astronomi- 
cal  Observation  -Tombs— Migration  of  Souls  -The  Sphynx. 


We  visited  the  site  of  the  no  less  ancient  city  of 
Memphis,  called  Noph  by  Jeremiah — xBi.,  19.  The 
foundations  of  which  stretch  beyond  the  limits  of  au- 
thentic history.  The  attempt  made  by  Nebuchadnezer 
to  destroy  even  the  vestiges,  and  totally  obliterate 
every  trace  of  it,  by  removing  the  stones  and  mater- 
ials of  which  it  was  built,  aided  by  the  destroying 
hand  which  Time  has  since  laid  upon  it,  is  most  com- 
plete, since  no  relics  of  its  former  magnificence  now 
occupy  the  ground  on  which  it  once  stood.  To  this 
purport  we  may  consult  EzekieD&ix.,  19,  and  also  Je- 
remiah xlvi.,  19.  But  we  learn  from  Edrisi,  an  old 
writer  who  visited  the  city  in  the  twelfth  century, 
that  its  ruins  then  extended  to  the  distance  of  half  a 
day’s  journey  in  any  one  direction  from  its  centre. 
If  this  statement  be  true — and  we  have  no  reason  to 
doubt  it — the  north  side  of  the  city  must  have  reached 
a point  near  to  the  Pyramids  of  Djizett,  consequently 
Memphis  approached  to  a line  nearly  opposite  the  ci- 
tadel at  Cairo,  as  it  is  less  than  half  a day’s  journey 
from  the  Pyramids  to  the  centre  of  the  site  of  the 
city,  as  ascertained  by  Denon  in  his  researches  when 
he  accompanied  Napoleon  into  Egypt.  In  Strabo’s 
time,  although  the  city  was  in  ruins,  it  was  a populous 
city,  second  only  to  Alexandria. 

In  visiting  the  Pyramids  at  Memphis  we  crossed 
5* 


MEMPHIS. 


„he  river  at  old  Cairo,  at  an  early  hour  m the  morn- 
ing, accompanied  by  a dragoman  and  muleteers,  with 
a sufficient  number  of  donkeys,  and  a sufficient  supply 
of  provisions  to  last  us  through  the  day.  We  also 
carried  wax  candles  to  enable  us  to  examine  the  rooms 
in  the  interior  of  the  pyramids.  These  pyramids  are 
situated  on  a platform  of  rocks  or  mountain  ridge, 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  the  plain,  and 
seven  miles  from  the  river.  In  times  of  flood  the 
waters  of  the  Nile  cover  these  extensive  plains,  and 
come  up  to  the  base  of  the  ridge.  While  crossing  the 
plains  the  Bedouins,  who  reside  near  the  pyramids, 
and  lay  claim  to  them,  met  us  while  we  were  yet  two 
miles  distant  from  the  mountain  ridge.  Those  who 
reached  us  first  we  employed  as  guides.  The  number 
of  laborers  who  are  constantly  at  work  under  the 
charge  of  persons  in  the  pursuit  of  antiquities  in  un- 
covering tombs,  establishes  beyond  a doubt  the  fact 
which  has  long  been  maintained,  that  a vast  cemetery, 
if  not  for  all  classes,  at  least  for  the  distinguished  dead 
of  the  cities  of  Memphis  and  Heliopolis,  extended  to 
the  north  and  south  of  these  pyramids  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  reach.  Many  of  the  tombs  are  uncovered, 
disclosing  several  apartments  highly  ornamented, 

, with  rich  carvings  and  paintings. 

The  number  of  pyramids  scattered  over  Egypt  is 
very  great;  but  the  most  remarkable  are  those  de- 
scribed by  Herodotus,  situated  opposite  Cairo,  at 
JJjizett.  They  are  still  regarded  as  the  finest  monu-  k 
ments  of  this  class  in  Egypt.  We  visited  the  Pyra- 
mid of  Cheops,  the  largest  of  the  three.  A number 
of  Bedouins,  whom  we  had  hired,  led  the  way.  The 
entrance  to  it,  as  well  as  to  each  of  them,  is  on  its 
northern  side.  We  descended  for  a considerable  dis- 
tance at  an  angle  of  about  twenty-six  degrees,  and 
from  thence  we  ascended,  with  much  trouble,  to  the 
first  apartment.  The  rooms  we  examined  were  of  the 


MEMPHIS. 


107 


following  dimensions : — The  one  called  the  Queen’s 
Chamber,  which  is  the  first  in  order,  is  thirty-seven 
feet  two  inches  long,  by  seventeen  feet  two  inches 
wide.  Then  comes  a chamber,  attainable  by  a simi- 
lar passage,  thirty  feet  by  seventeen,  and  twenty  feet 
high.  This  is  known  as  the  King’s  Chamber,  and  is 
lined  all  around  with  highly  polished  granite  slabs. 
At  the  western  extremity  of  the  room  stands  the 
sarcophagus,  without  a lid,  which  once  contained  the 
remains  of  Cheops,  but  which  now  is  entirely  empty. 
It  is  seven  feet  six  inches  long,  three  feet,  three  inches 
wide,  and  three  feet  deep.  There  is  a third  room, 
still  higher  in  the  body  of  the  pyramids,  which  was 
discovered  by  Mr.  Davidson,  the  British  Consul. 
This  apartment  is  four  feet  longer  than  the  one  below 
it,  the  width  being,  however,  the  same.  Davidson 
also  discovered  the  well  which  is  cut  through  the 
solid  rock  to  the  level  of  the  Kile. 

The  only  way  one  can  fully  realize  the  gigantic 
size  of  this  great  pyramid  is  to  recollect  that  it  cov- 
ers an  area  of  eleven  acres  of  ground — it  being  seven 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  long  on  each  of  its  sides  at  the 
base,  and  rising  to  a height  of  four  hundred  and 
eighty  feet. 

The  learned  who  have  given  their  attention  to 
these  stupendous  monuments,  maintain  that  the 
priests,  in  their  construction  of  them,  availed  them- 
selves of  the  means  thus  afforded  to  connect  their 
sacred  duties  with  their  favorite  studies,  and  com- 
bined the  sentiment  of  piety  with  the  sublime  con- 
ceptions of  astronomy.  Among  the  benefits,  they 
allege,  which  this  union  has  conferred  upon  poster- 
ity, is  that  of  having  fixed  with  precision  the  faces  of 
the  pyramids,  which  enables  us  to  know  that  the 
poles  of  the  earth  have  not  been  changed.  For  the 
pyramids  still  present  their  four  sides  correctly  to  the 


108 


MEMPHIS. 


four  points  of  tlie  compass,  as  they  did  when  first 
erected. 

The  scholars  also  maintain  that  these  structures 
were  formerly  used  to  correct  the  measurement  of 
time,  from  the  circumstance  that  the  main  approaches 
to  them  are  invariably  from  the  north,  and  incline 
downward  at  an  angle  of  twenty-seven  degrees,  with 
the  plane  of  the  horizon,  which  gives  a line  of  direc- 
tion not  far  removed  from  that  point  in  the  heavens 
where  the  polar  star  crosses  the  meridian  below  the 
pole.  The  observation  of  this,  or  some  other  star 
across  the  meridian,  would  give  them  an  accurate 
measure  of  siderial  time — a matter  of  the  first  impor- 
tance in  any  age  when  it  is  probable  no  other  instru- 
ments than  rude  solar  gnomous,  or  expedients  still 
more  imperfect,  were  in  use.  The  observations  were 
probably  made  by  a person  standing  at  the  bottom 
of  the  first  platform,  by  ranging  the  eye  along  the 
then  smooth  surface  of  this  entrance. 

It  has,  however,  been  denied  by  able  writers  that 
these  ancient  structures  were  erected  for  astronomi- 
cal observations;  for,  if  such  were  their  object,  they 
would  not  have  been  crowded  together  in  such  num- 
bers near  Memphis,  but  would  have  been  placed  in 
other  parts  of  the  kingdom,  and  especially  in  Heliop- 
olis, where  the  priests  were,  from  the  most  ancient 
times,  famed  for  their  astronomical  knowledge.  But 
others  again  maintain  that  they  were  simply  intended 
as  tombs  for  their  kings,  and  two  reasons  are  given 
therefor.  First,  the  religious  faith  of  the  old  Egyp- 
tians is  well  known,  viz  : that  the  soul  leaves  the  body 
after  death  and  wanders  through  those  of  various  ani- 
mals for  purification,  and  not  until  after  a succession 
of  thousands  of  years  returns  back  to  the  same  human 
body,  to  live  again  in  it.  This  was  reason  enough  for 
mighty  kings,  to  erect  the  pyramids,  either  to  hold 
back  the  soul  in  the  body  and  wholly  to  escape  the 


MEMPHIS. 


109 


dread  wanderings,  or  at  least  to  preserve  the  body 
from  an}7  corruption  until  the  requickening.  On  this 
account  the  bodies  of  all  Egyptians  were  embalmed 
and  placed  in  air-tight  catacombs.  Second---Policy, 
viz:  The  Israelites  were  forced  to  perform  the  hard- 
est of  labor,  because  their  rulers  hoped  thus  to  prevent 
their  increase  ; but  if  this  was  the  sole  object  they 
had,  it  seems  to  me,  they  might  have  been  employed 
on  some  worthier  and  more  useful  work,  in  the  build- 
ing of  canals,  and  other  national  improvements. 

The  Sphinx,  which  stands  at  a short  distance  from 
the  largest  pyramid,  is  regarded  by  most  travellers 
as  a rival  to  tlie  pyramids  themselves.  The  engrav- 
ings of  the  pyramids  and  this  Sphvnx,  wdiich  are  to 
be  met.  with  in  every  print-shop,  give  a very  perfect 
idea  of  their  apf>earauce  ; but  the  magnitude  of  the 
Spliynx  surprised  me.  It  is,  indeed,  a gigantic  and 
wonderful  work  of  . art.  Its  features  resemble,  in 
some  respects,  the  Copts  of  the  present  clay,  thus  go- 
ing far  towards  proving,  if  any  evidence  of  that  fact 
were  required,  that  tli^y  belong  to  the  ancient  Egyp- 
tian race,  which  is  quite  different  from  the  negro- 
featured  race.  What  the  Egyptians  signified  by  this 
symbolical  figure  seems  not  to  be  exactly  known. 
Some  writers  think  it  is  the  type  of  womanhood,  in 
which  power  is  engrafted  on  gentleness  and  beauty. 
This  is  represented  by  a woman’s  face,  neck  and 
bosom,  connected  with  the  body  of  a lioness,  not  in 
fierce  and  violent  action,  but  in  eternal  repose.  Dr. 
Pococke  says  there  is  an  entrance  both  in  the  back 
and  the  top  of  the  h ad.  The  latter,  he  thinks,  might 
have  served  the  priests  in  the  utterance  of  oracles. 
Its  dimensions,  according  to  the  same  writer,  are 
twenty-seven  feet  above  tlie  ground,  thirty -three  feet 
wide  across  the  breast,  and  the  entire  length  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  feet.  Pliny  estimated  its  height,  in 
his  day,  to  be  sixty  feet.  It  is,  therefore,  more  than 


110 


SUEZ. 


probable  that  the  sands  of  the  desert  have,  since  that 
period,  raised  the  ground  at  its  base  many  feet,  thus 
reducing  it  to  its  present  height. 


CHAPTER  XXII. 

SUEZ. 

Departure  from  Cairo — Barrenness  of  the  Route— Maga — Trade  of  Suez — Pas- 
sage of  the  Red  Sea — Authorities  Quoted — Diodorus — The  Ford — Valley 
of  the  Chariots— Robinson’s  Opinion — Conclusion. 

We  left  Cairo  at  seven  o’clock  in  the  morning,  by 
the  railroad  which  leads  over  the  desert  at  no  great 
distance  irom  the  route  formerly  traversed  by  the 
caravans.  There  is  no  water,  nor  tree,  nor  vegetation 
of  any  kind  to  be  found  on  this  extensive  and  dreary 
plain.  It  is  as  barren  as  the  surface  of  the  ocean  it- 
self. The  water  which  is  required  to  supply  the 
engine  is  carried  in  iron  tanks  on  cars  made  for  that 
purpose,  from  the  Hile,  and  such  part  of  it  as  is  not 
used  is  sold  to  the  citizens  of  Suez,  wrho  are  destitute 
of  pure  water.  The  only  good  water  which  they 
obtain  is  brought  from  the  well  of  Maga,  six  miles 
distant. 

This  town  is  supposed  to  occupy  the  site  of  an  an- 
cient city,  by  the  name  of  Arsinae.  There  are  no 
gardens  or  fields  surrounding  the  city,  nor  is  there  a 
single  patch  of  verdure  to  be  seen  anywhere  near  it. 
The  desert  comes  up  to  its  very  walls.  It  contains 
upwards  of  three  thousand  inhabitants.  Before  the 
commencement  of  the  great  railroad  which  connects 
the  Red  Sea  with  the  Mediterranean,  Suez  was  nbt 
considered  an  important  town ; but  the  immense 
trade  now  centering  here  from  the  East  Indies,  lias 


SUEZ. 


Ill 


/ 

given  it  a. new  impulse,  and  it  will  doubtless  ere  long 
become  a place  of  great  importance. 

The  privilege  which  the  Ottoman  Government  has 
granted  to  England,  of  using  this  railroad  for  the 
transport  of  troops,  munitions  of  war,  and  merchan- 
dise, to  and  from  their  Eastern  possessions,  will  have 
a tendency  to  cement  more  closely  the  ties  which 
have  heretofore  bound  these  nations  together,  not- 
withstanding the  efforts  made  by  religious  fanatics  to 
break  up  the  friendly  relations  existing  between  them. 
They  allege  that  England  disregards  the  “injured 
innocence  of  its  religion,”  by  such  connections  ; and 
they  ask,  “ Why  should  a Christian  people  concern 
themselves  about  the  welfare  of  those  Whose  rule  of 
guidance  in  life  is  the  Koran  ? For  why  should  those 
who  live  under  a free  constitution  desire  the  mainte' 
nance  of  an  empire  founded  in  despotism?”  But  the 
wise  and  sagacious  statesmen  of  Great  Britain  are 
not  likely  to  inaugurate  a crusade  against  the  Mahom- 
medan  religion  at  this  enlightened  period,  by  sugges- 
tions of  this  or  a like  character,  more  especially  since 
it  would  end  in  the  loss  of  this  direct  route  to  China 
and  India,  which  is  of  inestimable  value  to  that  Gov- 
ernment. 

The  largest  class  of  vessels  engaged  in  the  Eastern 
trade  cast  their  anchors  three  or  four  miles  from  the 
city,  there  not  being  a sufficient  depth  of  water  at  its 
wharves  to  float  them.  The  city  stands  upon  a point 
of  land,  with  the  sea  on  the  east  and  north  sides,  and 
a bay  on  the  south,  which  is  bounded  by  the  moun- 
tain Jabel  Ataka.  This  mountain  extends  along  the 
west  side  of  the  seashore  for  twelve  miles ; it  then 
curves  around  to  the  north  West,  and  terminates  in  a 
promontory  in  the  desert,  several  miles  from  the  sea. 
The  railroad  passes  around  this  point,  which  increases 
the  distance  between  Cairo  and  Suez.  The  great 
plain  in  the  rear  of  the  city  is  sufficiently  extensive 


112 


SUEZ. 


for  the  encampment  of  an  army  of  upwards  of  a mil- 
lion of  soldiers.  Whether  or  not  this  is  the  place 
where  the  wonderful  miracle  and  fearful  act  of  retri- 
bution occurred  to  Pharaoh  and  his  host,  must  ever 
remain  a doubtful  point.  The  traditionary  account, 
however,  of  the  Arabs  fixes  it  at  this  place;  but 
learned  travellers  have,  by  their  ingenious  method  of 
reasoning  on  the  subject,  rendered  it  extremely  prob- 
lematical. One  thing  is  quite  certain,  that  it  answers 
well  enough  to  the  description  given  in  the  Bible. 
For  here  was  a space  large  enough  for  the  whole  force 
of  the  Israelites  to  have  encamped,  and  here  lay  be- 
fore them  the  sea ; and,  on  the  right,  as  they  faced 
the  sea,  rises  the  Jebel  Ataka,  “ the  frightful  and  in- 
terminable mountain.”  “Lofty  and  dark,”  with  the 
desert  behind  them,  which  opened  a way  between  the 
mountain  and  sea  for  the  pursuit  of  Pharaoh,  with  an 
organized  military  force  of  six  hundred  chariots  of 
war  ; and,  being  thus  entangled  in  the  land,  their  de- 
struction would  seem,  but  for  the  providence  of  God, 
inevitable.  The  sea  is  now  fordable  here,  and  does 
not  exceed  three  miles  in  its  widest  place ; but  whe- 
ther it  was  fordable  at  that  period  must  remain  an 
unsettled  question.  It  is  quite  probable  that  the 
sands  of  the  desert  may  have  filled  up  the  channel  to 
some  extent.  The  tide  rises  five  feet  in  height,  and 
the  east  winds  are  so  severe  at  times  that  the  waters 
are  driven  back,  and  there  then  exists  less  difficulty 
in  passing  the  ford  than  at  ordinary  times.  It  is  a 
remarkable  fact  that  Diodorus,  in  speaking  of  the 
Red  iSea,  has  made  one  remark,  won  by  of  our  atten- 
tion : “ A tradition,”  says  that  historian,  “ has  been 
transmitted  through  the  whole  nation,  from  father  to 
son,  for  many  ages,  that  once  an  extraordinary  ebb 
dried  the  sea,  so  that  its  bottom  was  seen  ; and  that  a 
violent  flow  immediately  after  brought  back  the 
waters  to  their  former  channel.” 


SUEZ. 


113 


w It  is  evident,”  Rollin  the  historian  remarks, 
“ that  the  miraculous  passage  of  Moses  over  the  Red 
Sea  is  here  hinted  at ; and  I make  this  remark  pur- 
posely to  admonish  young  students,  not  to  slip  over, 
in  the  perusal  of  authors,  those  precious  remains  of  an- 
tiquity, especially  when  they  bear,  like  this  passage, 
any  relation  to  religion.” 

Some  maintain  that  the  place  where  the  Israelites 
passed  through  the  sea  was  twelve  miles  below  Suez, 
where  there  is  a chain  of  mountains  that  runs  from. 
Cairo  to  the  Red  Sea,  and  on  the  south  side  of  this 
chain  is  a narrow  vailey  ; but  this  valley,  it  is  asserted 
by  others,  is  not  wide  enough  to  have  contained  the 
camp. 

From  Etham  the  Israelites,  the  former  declare, 
might  have  made  their  way  to  this  vailey  by  a circuit 
around  Ataka,  through  a pass  to  the  mountain  west 
of  it;  or  they  may  have  marched  under  the  cliffs  of 
Mount  Ataka,  along  the  sea  shore.  But  the  interior 
route  would  have  led  them  back  to  a point  no  great 
distance  from  the  Nile,  and  in  the  face  of  the  Egyp- 
tian army.  It  seems  to  me  very  improbable  that 
tiiey  would,  for  this  reason,  have  taken  this  course. 
And  to  have  followed  the  route  by  the  seashore  along 
the  beach,  if  practicable,  with  so  large  a force,  and 
so  great  a number  of  cattle  as  they  drove,  would 
have  been  attended  with  serious  difficulty. 

Those  who  regard  Suez  as  the  place,  say  it  is  the 
very  spot  to  have  been  most  effected  by  strong  east 
winds.  Again,  they  assert,  the  road  from  Ethan, 
where  they  turned  off  to  the  right,  leads  directly  to 
this  place.  And,  furthermore,  they  declare,  that  the 
traditions  of  the  Arabs,  who  have  always  resided 
here,  locate  the  passage  at  the  eastern  end  of  Wada 
el  Araba.  The  Valley  of  the  Chariots,  and  the  Valley 
•and  Mountain  of  “Pharaoh’s  Hosts,”  on  the  opposite 
shore,  derive  their  names,  as  the  Arabs  assert,  from 


1 u 


SUEZ. 


the  destruction  which  fell  upon  Pharaoh’s  army. 
They  say,  too,  that  the  depth,  of  the  sea  at  all  other 
points  on  the  coast  would  have  been  too  great  to 
have  allowed  of  its  division  being  compared  to  a 
wall ; and,  moreover,  the  great  width  at  all  other 
points  would  have  required  a longer  time  for  the  pas- 
sage than  is  given  in  the  Bible.  It  is  not,  however, 
a matter  of  much  moment  at  this  late  day,  whether 
or  not  that  wonderful  event  took  place  here  or  twelve 
miles  further  south.  It  is  quite  certain  that  the 
Israelites  visited  this  place  on  that  occasion  ; and,  if 
any  reliance  can  be  placed  in  the  traditionary  ac- 
counts given  by  the  Arabs,  then  the  weight  of  evi- 
dence is  in  favor  of  Suez. 

In  conclusion,  I would  remark,  that  I have  been 
much  pleased  with  my  visit  to  this  interesting  local- 
ity. Indeed,  I have  been  more  than  repaid  for  the 
time  I have  devoted  in  my  long  journey  to  my  visit 
to  this  city.  This  place  can  now  be  reached  with 
ease  from  New  York,  since  the  railroad  from  Alex- 
andria was  completed,  in  twenty-two  days,  and  that, 
too,  at  the  small  expense  for  one  person  of  two  hun- 
dred and  seventy-live  dollars.  .In  hurrying  on  to  this 
point  in  order  to  reach  the  extreme  southern  part  of 
the  country,  with  a view  of  avoiding  the  hot  wea- 
ther, the  tourist  will  be  obliged  to  postpone  his  visit 
to  intermediate  places  until  his  return. 


FROM  ALEXANDRIA  TO  GAZZA. 


115 


CHAPTER  XXIII. 

FROM  ALEXANDRIA  TO  GAZZA. 


Steamers— Peter  Yahoop — American  Consul— Our  Vessel— Cleopa.ra’s  Barge 

— Our  Crew — The  Winds — The  Weather — Coffee — Pelusium — The  Char- 
acter of  the  Turks — Edom — Gazza. 

I was  detained  in  Alexandria,  in  Egypt,  waiting 
for  a conveyance  to  Palestine.  Heretofore  there  has 
been  great  regularity  in  running  the  steamers  of  the 
various  lines  on  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  for  the  ac- 
commodation of  tourists,  and  at  no  place  within  its 
waters  more  so  than  at  the  city  of  Alexandria  ; but 
the  war  in  Europe,  and  other  causes,  have,  in  some 
measure,  deranged  them  for  the  present.  The  Aus- 
trian steamers  have  been  withdrawn,  and  the  French 
line  decline  to  touch  at  or  land  passengers  at  this 
place,  owing  to  the  delay  they  are  subjected  to  from 
the  quarantine  regulations  here.  Such  being  the  case, 
I determined  to  employ  a dragoman,  with  a view 
either  of  taking  the  route  by  the  short  desert,  or  by 
the  sea-coast,  in  order  to  enable  me  to  view  the 
mouths  of  the  Xile  and  sites  of  the  several  ancient 
cities  situated  on  or  near  the  sea-shore.  On  consult- 
ing with  gentlemen  who  had  long  resided  at  Alex- 
andria, and  in  whose  judgment  I had  entire  confi- 
dence, I became  satisfied  that  the  route  by  the  sea- 
coast  was  decidedly  preferable  to  that  of  the  arid  des- 
ert at  this  season  of  the  year,  and  without  further  hes- 
itation I concluded  a contract  with  Peter  Yahoop,  of 
Syria,  a very  competent  and  most  faithful  man ; he 
undertaking,  on  his  part,  for  a consideration  agreed 
upon  between  us,  to  furnish  myself  and  daughter 


116 


FEOM  ALEXANDRIA  TO  GAZZA. 


with  horses  properly  caparisoned  for  the  convey- 
ance of  ourselves  and  luggage  through  the  Holy 
Laud  ; to  supply  us  witli  provisions  and  as  many 
courses  at  breakfast  and  dinner  as  I should  direct,  to- 
gether witli  beds,  bedding,  china  and  glass-ware,  wa- 
ter-tilters  for  purifying  the  water  for  use,  and  all  such 
other  articles  as  are  required  for  a journey  of  that  ex- 
tent. He  also  stipulated  to  furnish  us  with  a cook, 
a servant,  and  at  least  four  muleteers,  at  no  time  to 
require  us  to  ride  during  the  heat  of  the  day,  and  to 
pay  all  expenses  incurred  in  removing  the  baggage, 
etc.,  on  the  route.  This  contract  was  executed  by  us 
in  the  presence  of  the  American  Consul  at  the  city 
of  Alexandria,  who  witnessed  it  under  his  official  seai. 
A part  of  the  consideration  money  was  paid  in  ad- 
vance; the  balance  to  b&  paid  by  a draft  on  our  arri- 
val at  Beyrout  in  Syria.  As  the  terms  of  the  con- 
tract rendered  it  unnecessary  for  me  to  take  any  mon- 
ey or  other  valuables  with  me,  I retained  but  a few 
sovereigns  in  my  purse,  which  fact  was  well  known  to 
my  employees..  I therefore  felt  under  no  apprehen- 
sion of  being  disturbed  on  the  route  by  the  wild  Bed- 
ouins, or  other  persons  no  less  wild,  whom,  it  was 
said,  we  should  meet  everywhere  throughout  tli p 
country,  on  foot,  or  mounted  on  fleet  and  well-bro- 
ken Arabian  horses,  armed  to  the  teeth  with  guns,  and 
immense  long  lances,  which  latter  they  throw  while 
under  full  speed  w’ith  much  accuracy. 

The  contract  being  thus  definitely  settled,  I di- 
rected my  dragoman  to  enter  into  an  agreement  with 
some  competent  and  trusty  commander  for  the  voy- 
age ; and,  in  pursuance  of  these  instructions,  he  en- 
gaged Captain  Armahanshent,  of  Tripoli,  the  owner 
and  commander  of  the  Malesaaka,  a small  coasting- 
vessel,  measuring  only  forty-five  feet  in  length,  by 
twelve  feet-in  width.  As  there  was  no  cabin  or  other 
accommodations  on  board,  our  tent  was  pitched  on  the 


FROM  ALEXANDRIA  TO  GAZZA. 


117 


deck  of  the  vessel,  everything  was  arranged  in  a way 
to  render  ns  as  comfortable  as  we  could  be  under  the 
circumstances,  and,  I think,  we  were  quite  as  much 
so  as  Cleopatra  was,  centuries  ago,  on  the  same  wa- 
ters, on  her  celebrated  voyage  to  meet  Antony  at 
Tarsus,  in  Cilicia,  with  this  difference,  however,  that 
her  magnificent  galley  was  covered  with  gold,  pro- 
pelled by  purple  silken  sails  and  silver  oars,  and  with 
oarsmen  or  marines  richly  and  gorgeously  appareled ; 
while  our  seamen  had  barely  clothing  sufficient  to 
cover  their  persons,  and  our  unpretending  vessel  had 
neither  gold  nor  paint  upon  it,  nor  otherwise  orna- 
men  ted. 

We  embarked  on  the  evening  of  the  sixteenth,  and 
sailed  the  following  morning.  The  sea  being  always 
calm  at  this  season  of  the  year  in  Egypt,  I felt  in  no 
wav  concerned  either  in  regard  to  the  smallness  of 
our  vessel,  or  of  being  drenched  with  the  spray 
of  the  sea  in  the  event  of  a storm,  as  we  would 
inevitably  have  been,  for  our  tent  would  have 
afforded  us  no  protection  against  it ; but,  although  our 
voyage  was  completed  in  two  or  three  days’  less  time 
than  it  would  have  been,  had  we  taken  the  route  by 
the  desert,  it  was,  nevertheless,  an  uncommonly  long 
one  by  the  sea — being  seven  days  and  seven  nights. 
We  were,  however,  fortunately,  favored  with  fine 
weather,  and  with  an  excellent  opportunity  of  view- 
ing the  entire  coast.  Our  crew  and  employees  con- 
sisted of  six  Turks  and  seven  Assyrian  Christians, 
none  of  whom  spoke  the  English  language  excepting 
our  dragoman,  and  he  only  in  broken  and  very  im- 
perfect sentences  ; he,  however,  spoke  the  French  lan- 
guage. 

The  winds  on  the  coast  of  Egypt  always  blow  from 
the  north  during  the  months  of  May,  June,  July,  and 
August,  which  circumstance  induced  the  ancient 
Egyptians  to  attribute  the  rise  of  the  rivers,  and  the 


118 


FROM  ALEXANDRIA  TO  GAZZA. 


overflowing  of  the  hanks  of  the  Nile,  to  that  cause,  as 
we  are  informed  by  Herodotus,  the  first  historian  of 
whom  we  have  any  knowledge. 

The  wind  blew  gently  from  the  north  on*  the  day 
we  sailed  from  Alexandria,  and  the  thermometer  stood 
at  seventy-five  degrees,  varying  but  little  from  that 
during  the  whole  voyage : the  weather  was  so  mild 
and  pleasant  that  we  suffered  no  inconvenience  on  ac- 
count of  the  heat,  or  otherwise.  We  passed  the  Ro- 
setta mouth  of  the  Nile,  thirty  miles  distant  from  Al- 
exandria, at  four  o’clock,  p.  m.,  of  the  day  of  our  de- 
parture. As  we  left  Alexandria  our  cook  entered  up- 
on his  duties,  and  served  us  at  an  early  hour,  with  an 
excellent  cup  of  Mocha  coffee,  as  is  the  custom  of  the 
Turks  in  the  Orient.  They  drink  no  spirituous  liquor 
of  any  sort,  but  partake  of  coffee  at  all  hours  of 
the  da}L  Our  coffee  was  made  in  the  most  approved 
manner,  and  gave  assurance  of  the  excellent  qualities 
of  the  cook : who  had  had,  I doubt  not,  much  experi- 
ence, for  he  proved  himself  to  be  the  best  one  I 
met  with  in  the  country.  At  nine  o’clock,  a.  m.,  our 
dejeuner  a la  fourchette  was  served,  which  consisted 
of  excellent  tea  and  an  omelette , mutton  chops,  etc., 
etc.,  accompanied  with  the  choicest  fruit  of  the  sea- 
son. At  five  o’clock,  p.  m.,  we  sat  down  to  as  good  a 
dinner  as  could  be  obtained  at  either  Shepherd’s 
grand  hotel  at  Cairo,  or  at  the  Peninsula  and  Orien- 
tal Hotel  at  Alexandria.  We  were  favored  with  all 
the  delicacies  which  the  country  affords  ; and  I take 
this  opportunity  to  state  that  we  had  no  cause  of  com- 
plaint for  want  of  good  fare  or  proper  attention  on  the 
part  of  our  employees  during  the  voyage.  We  passed 
the  ancient  city  of  Pelusium  on  the  morning  of  the 
eighteenth,  which  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  examin- 
ing the  other  mouth  of  the  Nile,  and  the  site  of  that 
once  great  commercial  town,  which  continued  to  ad- 
vance in  importance  and  grandeur  until  the  founda 


FROM  ALEXANDRIA  TO  GAZZA. 


119 


tion  of  the  city  of  Alexandria  was  laid.  The  Isthmus 
Canal,  which  is  to  connect  the  Red  Sea  with  the 
Mediterranean,  will  terminate  at  no  great  distance 
from  this  point.  There  is  much  said  for  and  against 
this  great  project,  and  from  what  I can  learn  from  the 
best  informed  gentlemen  with  whom  I have  conversed 
on  the  subject,  I think  it  not  only  practicable,  but 
that  it  will  be  completed  at  no  distant  day,  thereby 
opening  a direct  communication  from  the  Atlantic, 
through  the  Mediterranean  and  Red  Seas,  to  the  East 
Indies,  with  steamers  and  all  other  classes  of  vessels. 
The  wind,  during  the  night,  was  favorable,  and  we 
might  have  made  much  greater  progress  than  we  did, 
but  our  seamen  did  not  feel  disposed  to  keep  our  ves- 
sel under  way  during  the  night,  owing  to  their  indo- 
lent habits.  I find  that  the  Turks  will  do  no  more,  in 
the  way  of  labor,  than  is  barely  sufficient  to  obtain  for 
themselves  a living,  and  in  a mild  climate,  such  as 
this,  but  little  labor  is  required  in  order  to  procure 
enough,  even  at  the  small  wages  they  receive  for  their 
services,  to  satisfy  their  humble  wants,  more  especial- 
ly as  they  wear  but  little  clothing,  and  consume  no 
more  fuel  than  is  necessary  for  their  cooking  and  oth- 
er culinary  purposes.  The  larger  portion  of  the  la- 
boring classes  have  no  shoes  to  their  feet,  and  no 
more  clothing  than  is  barely  sufficient  to  cover  their 
persons,  and,  judging  from  the  careless  manner  in 
which  they  wear  that  little,  there  is  no  danger  that 
their  pride  of  dress  will  be  the  cause,  of  their  ruin. 
While  the  Turks  are  naturally  indolent,  they  have 
strong  animal  impulses,  and  when  prompted  by  pas- 
sion, are  as  extreme  in  their  activity  as  they  are  at 
other  times  in  their  repose.  Of  this  trait  in  their 
character  I had  ocular  demonstration  this  day.  It 
seems  that  twe?  of  the  seamen  had  a difficulty,  grow- 
ing out  of  some  slight  occurrence  between  them,  and 
alter  the  use  of  violent  language  on  both  sides,  and 


120 


FROM  ALEXANDRIA  TO  GAZZA. 


vehement  and  threatening  gesticulations,  one  of  them, 
who  had  become  perfectly  infuriated,  seized  a club 
and  swore  he  would  kijl  bis  adversary.  They  were, 
with  much  difficulty,  separated  from  each  other,  and, 
after  a sufficient  time  had  elapsed  to  allow  their  pas- 
sions to  subside,  under  the  soothing  advice  of  friends, 
the  sailor  who  had  used  the  club  was  observed  kneel- 
ing and  praying  in  the  usual  manner  of  the  Moham- 
medans, and  that,  too,  by  the  side  of  the  very  man 
with  whom  he  had  had  the  controversy.  This  affair 
was  calculated  to  shake  the  confidence  we  had  reposed 
in  our  crew,  but  they  were  one  and  all  so  very  kind 
to  us.,  that  I apprehended  no  danger  from  them  what- 
ever ; besides,  their  devotion  to  theirreligion  mi  board 
increased  my  faith  in  them.  If  you  can  judge  of  a 
mail’s  honesty  of  heart  by  seeingliim  at  his  devotions, 
then  I am  satisfied  I can  place  all  reliance  in  these 
men,  for  go  where  you  may  you  will  not  fail  to  find 
them  at  their  devotions,  and  that,  too,  wherever  they 
may  happen  to  be  at  the  time  of  prayer — whether  in 
the  mosque  or  on  the  highways,  in  the  field  or  on  their 
vessels.  Tin  y stand  in  the  first  place  perfectly  erect, 
with  their  arms  folded  on  their  breasts,  and  their  eyes 
upturned.  After  remaining  for  a short  time  in  this 
position,  they  fall  upon  their  knees  and  bend  their 
bodies  forward,  and  kiss  the  earth  several  times : they 
then  rise  again  to  their  feet,  but  soon  drop  on  their 
knees  as  at  the  first,  and  this  they  repeat  for  a stated 
number  of  times.  I have  never  heard  them  prny 
aioud,  but  I have  no  doubt  they  repeat  their  prayers 
to  themselves. 

Our  course  lay  for  several  days  along  the  drearv 
desert  of  Idumaea  or  Edom.  Nothing  but  sand- 
mounds  are  to  be  met  with.  There  is  no  vegetation 
or  trees  of  any  sort  to  be  seen.  It  is  a frightful  and 
dreary  district  of  country  to  look  upon,  and  I feel 
tiiat  we  are  far  better  off  . sailing  along  its  coast  than 


FROM  ALEXANDRIA  TO  GAZZA. 


121 


we  should  be  in  passing  through  it  on  the  backs  of 
camels,  at  the  slow  and  uncomfortable  pace  with 
which  these  animals  move. 

Our  commander  and  seamen  joined  in  a musical 
party  this  evening  for  our  entertainment,  and  I have 
no  doubt  that  they  belived  they  were  imparting  much 
pleasure  to  us  ; but  the  truth  is,  there  is  no  music  in 
the  souls  of  the  Turks.  They  have  no  music  of  any 
sort  in  their  mosques,  and  I am  told  they  hold  in  con- 
tempt all  musical  professors ; and  yet  they  employ 
dancing  girls  to  dance  in  their  harems  for  the  amuse- 
ment of  their  numerous  wives,  which  affords  them,  it 
is  said,  great  pleasure. 

We  reached  the  ancient  city  of  Gazza,  six  days  after 
leaving  Alexandria,  this  city  acquired  imperishable 
fame  from  Samson’s  great  strength  and  exploits.  It 
is  situated  two  or  three  miles  from  the  sea,  and  has 
now  more  the  appearance  of  a number  of  mud  vil- 
lages than  that  of  a regularly  built  town  : the  public 
edifices  are  constructed  of  stone,  and  are  weli  adapted 
to  the  objects  for  which  they  are  applied.  There  is 
an  extensive  belt  of  naked,  drifting  sand,  commencing 
at  the  sea-shore,  and  extending  within  one  mile  of  the 
town  itself,  which  seems  to  be  advancing  nearer  and 
nearer  to  the  city  every  year,  and  should  it  continue 
to  do  so  for  a few  years  longer,  the  country  will  soon 
be  in  the  same  condition  it  was  in  St.  Luke’s  day, 
when  he  declared  it  to  be  a desert  place.  This  is  one 
of  the  most  ancient  cities  in  the  world.  Of  this  there 
can  be  no  doubt,  for  we  have  recorded  evideuceof  its 
antiquity  in  Gen.  x.  9.  It  was  occupied  by  the  Cana- 
an ites  long  before  the  Israelites  left  Egypt.  (Deut. 
ii.)  It  is  also  well-established,  by  the  same  sacred  au- 
thority, that  it  was  at  one  time  in  the  possession  of 
the  giants,  the  descendants  of  Anak,  as  were  the  ci- 
ties of  Gath  and  Aslidod  on  the  same  coast,  or  no 
great  distance  from  it.  Joshua  extended  his  conquest 


122 


FROM  ALEXANDRIA  TO  GAZZA. 


to  it,  but  did  not  subdue  this  remarkable  people.  It 
was,  however,  subsequently  captured  by  the  He- 
brews. 

As  this  city  is  situated  at  the  commencement  of  the 
great  desert,  and  on  the  line  of  march  of  the  numer 
ous  armies  to  and  from  Egypt,  it  was  always  liable  to 
be  captured  by  them,  from  the  reign  of  Seso9tris  to 
its  final  overthrow.  At  one  time  it  was  possessed  by 
the  Egyptians  ; and  at  another  period  it  was  in  the  pos- 
session, and  regarded  as  the  key  of  the  Assyrians.  Cam- 
byses  made  it  his  chief  magazine  when  he  marched 
into  Eg)  pt  with  his  mighty  army.  It  was  captured 
by  Alexander  the  Great  333  b.c.,  after  a desperate 
siege  of  two  months,  during  which  all  its  brave  de- 
fenders perished.  It  was  sacked  by  Antiochus,  and 
was  several  times  taken  from  the  Syrians  by  the  Mac- 
cabees. In  634  it  was  taken  by  the  Moslems,  and  in 
1152  by  the  Crusaders,  who  erected  a strong  fortress 
on  the  hill,  the  command  of  which  was  entrusted  to 
the  Knight  Templars,  and  in  the  twelfth  century  it 
fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Arabs.  No  tourist  can  or 
ought  to  pass  this  interesting  town  without  examining 
it  with  attention,  and  yet  no  one  can  visit  it  without 
its  exciting  the  most  melancholy  and  painful  emotions 
on  account  of  its  bloody  history.  A detailed  descrip- 
tion thereof  would  fill  many  volumes.  It  now  con- 
tains only  fifteen  thousand  inhabitants. 


FROM  ASKELON  TO  JOPPA. 


123 


CHAPTEK  XXIY. 

FROM  ASKELON  TO  JOPPA. 


Antiquity  of  Askelon— Its  Ruins— Joppa— The  Quarantine  -Its  Regulations 
— Vision  Traditionary — Dr.  Barclay — Formation  of  the  Holy  Land- 
Plain  ol  Sharon— Plain  of  Jordain— Gardens— Palestine— Model  Farm  and 
Industrial  Institution  for  Jewish  Converts — Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hershon— 
P umps —Vie  w— Productions . 


The  day  following  our  departure  from  Gazza  we  ar- 
rived at  the  site  of  Askelon,  fourteen  miles  from  the 
former  place.  Along  the  shore  runs  a line  ot*  bold 
cliffs  from  one  to  two  miffs  in  extent,  and  from  fifty 
to  sixty  feet  in  height,  within  which  boundaries  stood 
the  nncient  city.  It  now  presents  a scene  of  utter  de- 
solation : the  sands  of  the  desert  are  rapidly  approach- 
ing it,  and  will  soon  cover  it  entirely.  The  old  walls 
of  the  town  are  broken  down,  and  thousands  of 
shattered  marble  and  granite  columns  are  spread 
around  in  every  direction.  This  city  was  captured  by 
the  Israelites,  but  only  held  by  them  for  a short  time. 
Its  inhabitants  harbored  an  inveterate,  deadly  and  un- 
forgiving hatred  against  the  Jews.  It  was  one  of  the 
royal  cities  of  the  Philistians,  and  judging  from  Da- 
vid’s observation  respecting  it,  was  one  of  the  most 
magnificent  cities  of  the  East  in  his  day.  His  cele- 
brated remarks  in  regard  to  it  will  be  recollected  by 
all  who  have  perused  the  sacred  book,  viz.,  “Tell  it 
not  in  Gath,  publish  it  not  in  the  streets  of  Askelon.’’ 
(2  Sami.  i.  20.)  Besides,  if  we  can  rely  at  all  upon 
tradition,  it  furnished  to  the  Assyrians,  at.*a  very 
early  period,  one  of  the  most  distinguished  female 
commanders  of  armies  that  the  world  ever  produced, 
and  if  she  did  not  build  the  great  city  of  Nineveh, 


1 24: 


FROM  ASKELON  TO  JOPI’A. 


as  it  is  claimed  slie  did  bv  some  historians,  it  is  cer 
tain  that  she  contributed  materially  to  its  enlargement 
and  adornment.  Askelon,  in  common  with  its  neigh- 
boring cities,  was  the  scene  of  many  bloody  battles. 

In  1097,  soon  after  the  capture  of  Jerusalem,  the 
Caliph  of  Cairo  advanced  from  Egypt  with  a large 
army,  and  was  joined  by  the  Mussel  men  of  Syria. 
Godfrey,  at  the  head  of  his  army  met  these  forces  on 
the  plains  of  Askelon,  and  totally  defeated  and 
routed  them.  The  enemy’s  loss,  found  killed  on  the 
battle  field,  was  equal  to  the  entire  army  of  the  Crusa- 
ders. The  former  lost  besides  upwards  of  sixty  thou- 
sand on  their  retreat.  The  loss  of  the  Crusaders  was 
but  slight. 

The  city  was  captured  by  Alexander  the  Great,  and 
also  by  the  Ptolemy 8.  The  Crusaders,  after  a siege 
of  two  months  obtained  possession  of  it,  and  when 
abandoned  by  them,  it  began  to  decay.  Its  total  des- 
truction had  been  prophesied,  and  that  prophecy  is 
literally  fulfilled,  for  there  is  nothing  remaining  but 
its  ruins. 

We  were  not  permitted  to  enter  the  city  of  Joppa 
upon  our  arrival,  but  were  first  required  to  pass  in 
quarantine  several  days  We  were  landed  fronting 
the  quarantine  quarters,  and  carried  to  the  shore  on 
the  backs  of  our  seamen.  The  quarantine  building 
is  not  kept  as  neatly  as  it  ought  to  be,  owing  to  the 
indolence  of  the  people,  and  their  apparent  disregard 
*>f  cleanliness.  It  is  surrounded  by  a high  wall,  within 
which,  and  next  to  it,  are  rooms  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  its  inmates,  those  who  are  able  to  pay  for 
apartments  have  the  best  assigned  to  them.  To  the 
poor,  jnore  indifferent  quarters  are  given.  There  is  a 
garden  adjoining  the  quarantine,  which  might  be  con- 
verted into  a fine  promenade,  but  is  far  from  being 
attractive  as  it  now  exists.'  We  had  the  privilege  of 
walking  on  an  extensive  beach,  embracing  fine  bath- 


FROM  A8KEL0N  TO  JOPPA, 


125 


ing  grounds,  where  those  who  are  partial  to  sea  bath- 
ing might  enjoy  the  same  exceedingly.  In  walking 
along  the  beach  I noticed  seven  or  eight  small  tarn 
neries,  near  the  edge  of  the  banks,  showing  that  the 
tanning  of  skins  is  still  carried  on  here  as  in  the  days 
of  Simon,  the  tanner. 

All  persons  confined  within  the  quarantine  grounds, 
must  supply  themselves  with  bed,  bedding,  and  what 
other  articles  of  furniture  they  may  desire.  I am  told 
that  travellers  can  make  an  arrangement  with  the 
hotel  proprietors  of  this  place  to  supply  them  with 
all  the  furniture  and  provisions  they  may  require  at 
a reasonable  rate.  My  dragoman,  however,  pitched 
our  tent,  which  is  handsomely  lined  and  tastefully  or- 
namented, in  the  interior  of  the  ground,  and,  as  we 
have  all  the  necessary  furniture,  we  suffer  no  incon- 
venience. The  common  people  of  the  country — and 
the  larger  portion  of  those  now  here  from  Egypt  are 
of  that  class — have  no  furniture  in  their  frail  mud 
huts,  and  consequently  have  no  need  of  any  here.  A 
loaf  of  bread  and  a little  water  is  all  they  require  for 
the  day.  The  water  is  supplied  them  from  a well 
within  the  enclosure,  and  the  bread  is  brought  to  their 
quarters  in  large,  oval,  flat  cakes,  which  are  sold  at 
reasonable  rates.  The  day  we  entered  the  quarantine 
grounds  was  one  of  the  hottest  of  the  season,  the  ther- 
mometer rising  in  our  tent,  at  twelve  o’clock,  to  one 
hundred  and  twelve  degrees.  This  was  too  much 
for  us  to  endure,  and  we  went  into  the  building,  where 
we  remained  till  evening,  when  we  returned  to  our 
tent,  and  rested  well  during  the  night. 

While  here  we  received  many  calls  from  citizens  of 
the  United  States,  who  kindly  offered  to  serve  us. 
We  could  not,  in  consequence  of  the  stringent  quar- 
antine regulations,  invite  them  into  our  tent,  lest  some 
contagious  disease  should  be  imparted  to  them ; but 
we  were  graciously  permitted  by  our  attendant,  who 


126 


FROM  ASKELON  TO  JOPPA. 


stood  between  ns  and  our  visitors  with  a staff  in  hi3 
hand,  to  hold  conversation  with  them. 

We,  however,  passed  an  agreeable  half-hour  to- 
gether, and  on  taking  leave  they  left  a file  of  the 
latest  New-York  newspapers,  the  perusal  of  which 
gave  us  employment  for  the  balance  of  the  day. 

Joppa  is  conceded  by  the  most  distinguished  histo- 
rians of  former  days,  as  well  as  those  of  the  present, 
to  be  one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  of  the  world.  Its 
biblical  and  historical  associations  are  of  the  most 
stirring  character.  What  remains  of  it  is  built  on  a 
promontory  projecting  out  in  the  sea.  It  was  founded 
by  Japhet,  the  son  of  Noah,  and  its  foundation  was 
laid  before  the  flood.  Pliny  entertains  this  opinion.  It 
is  said,  that  here  Noah  went  into  the  ark,  and  accord- 
ing to  the  tradition  of  the  country,  it  is  the  sepulchre 
of  the  second  father  of  mankind.  The  Greeks  place 
in  the  neighborhood  of  this  city,  the  adventure  of 
Perseus’  deliverance  of  Andromeda.  Jerome  relates 
that  in  his  day,  the  rock  and  the  ring  to  which  Andro- 
meda was  bound,  were  still  pointed  out  to  travellers. 
Its  inhabitants  have  suffered  from  time  to  time 
more  than  tongue  can  tell,  from  the  calamities  of  war, 
pestilence,  and  famine,  and,  I believe,  it  has  been 
more  than  once  severely  injured  by  earthquakes.  It 
has  often  been  left  with  but  few  inhabitants  to  narrate 
the  sad  stories  of  its  destruction.  It  was  here  that 
Jonah  embarked  for  Tarsus,  at  the  time  he  was  cast 
into  the  sea.  It  was  here,  too,  that  Peter  restored 
Dorcas  to  life,  and  where  he  saw  the  vision.  Tradi- 
tion points  out  the  house  in  which  Dorcas  resided,  and 
also  the  residence  of  Simon,  the  tanner.  Eight  thous- 
and of  its  citizens  were  butchered  at  the  time  it  was 
captured  by  the  Komans,  and  several  thousands  more, 
who  had  taken  refuge  in  the  fleet  during  the  siege, 
perished  in  the  sea  in  a severe  storm  which  raged 
with  fury  many'  days.  At  a much  later  period,  in 


FROM  ASKELON  TO  JOPPA. 


127 


1799,  twenty -five  hundred  of  its  brave  defenders  de- 
livered themselves  up  to  Napoleon,  on  condition  that 
their  lives  would  be  spared:  but  a court-martial, 
afterwards  convened  to  decide  their  fate,  condemned 
them  to  die,  and,  in  pursuance  of  that  sentence,  they 
were  shot  on  the  south  side  of  the  town,  and  on  the 
very  spot  where  the  quarantine  is  now  situated. 

This  city  was  the  great  port  or  harbor  for  Jerusalem, 
but  is  now  only  calculated  for  small  coasting  vessels. 
Dr.  J.  T.  Barclay,  a resident  of  Jerusalem,  and  a 
gentleman  of  high  attainments,  has  examined  its  pre- 
sent harbor  and  surrounding  country,  and  has  come 
to  the  conclusion  that  at  a very  early  period  it  cover- 
ed a large  space  on  the  north-east  side  of  the  city, 
which  is  now  firm  land.  The  doctor  is  here  with  a 
view  of  making  some  arrangement  with  respect  to 
supplying  the  city  with  pure  water,  and  also  to  pro- 
vide for  constructing  a railroad  between  it  and  Jeru- 
salem. 

While  sailing  along  the  coast  cf  Egypt  and  Pales- 
tine, I observed  that  the  whole  of  the  interior  of  the 
Holy  Land,  commencing  from  Beersheba,  consists  of 
hilly  and  broken  ground  divided  longitudinally  by  the 
Lake  of  Tiberias,  the  river  Jordan,  and  the  Dead  Sea, 
the  whole  forming  a conspicuous  and  distinct  line 
throughout  the  entire  length  of  Judea,  Samaria,  and 
Galilee,  covering  at  least  three  quarters  of  that  coun- 
try, and  dividing  the  waters  that  flow  east  into  the 
river  Jordan  and  the  Dead  Sea  from  those  that  run 
westward  towards  the  Mediterranean.  Jerusalem  is 
situated  on  one  of  the  highest  of  these  ranges.  The 
mountains  on  the  west  side  of  the  Dead  Sea  rise  from 
one  thousand  five  hundred  to  two  thousand  nine  hun- 
dred feet  in  height  ; and,  on  the  eastern  shore,  to  a 
much  greater  elevation. 

The  Plain  of  Sharon  lies  on  the  west  of  the  moun- 
tains, commencing  at  Gaza,  by  the  sea-coast.  It  varies 


128 


FROM  ASKELON  TO  JOPPA. 


in  width  from  one  to  twenty  five  miles,  and  extends 
to  the  Mount  Carmel  range,  which  divides  the  plain 
of  Sharon  from  that  of  Esdraelon,  called  by  Josephus 
the  Great  Plain.  This  vast  plain,  exclusive  of  three 
great  arms  which  stretch  eastwards  toward  the  valley 
of  Jordan,  is  in  the  form  of  an  acute  triangle. 

The  Plain  of  Jordan  lies  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
of  that  name,  and  is  fifty  miles  in  length,  by  six  to 
eight  in  width.  These  valleys  have  always  been  es- 
teemed the  most  productive  regions  in  the  Holy  Land, 
but  the  Plain  of  Sharon  is  always  parched  up  during 
the  dry  season  for  lack  of  rain,  and  no  portions  of  it 
produce  a second  crop,  excepting  such  as  are  kept  as 
gardens  and  irrigated  with  water  from  the  wells. 

In  the  neighborhood  of  Joppa,  and  other  towns  on 
the  sea-board,  there  are  many  portions  thus  cultivated 
which  yield  an  abundance  of  fruit  and  vegetables  of 
all  descriptions.  A company  consisting  of  foreign 
capitalists  has  been  formed  to  experiment  on  the  best 
method  of  cultivating  these  barren  lands.  I visited 
their  settlement  before  leaving  Joppa.  It  is  called 
the  “ Palestine  model  farm  and  industrial  institution 
for  Jewish  converts.”  Three  years  have  elapsed  since 
the  idea  was  first  started  by  gentlemen  in  England 
and  elsewhere,  of  establishing  an  agricultural  settle- 
ment in  this  country,  in  order  that  converted  Israelites 
might  thus  obtain  an  honest  livelihood,  and  at  the 
same  time  enjoy  the  advantage  of  Christian  sympathy 
and  fellowship  in  the  land  of  their  fathers. 

Its  founders  have  liberally  contributed  to  its  sup- 
port, and  judging  from  what  was  apparent  of  their 
labors,  I think  their  object  has  been  successfully  ac- 
complished. Two  valuable  plantations,  with  build- 
ings attached  to  them,  have  been  advantageously  pur- 
chased, the  committee  having  the  establishment  in 
charge,  have  succeeded  in  securing  as  the  superinten- 
dent of  it,  Mr.  Paul  Isaac  Hershon,  a Christian  Israel- 


FROM  ASKELON  TO  JOPPA. 


129 


ite,  who  with  Mrs.  Hershon,  an  accomplished  lady, 
arrived  here  in  March,  1857.  Great  ecomony  has 
been  observed  in  its  management.  The  actual  am- 
ount expended  up  to  January  last  was  £228  8s.  8d., 
only  £16  18s.  8d.,  of  which  had  been  expended  in 
England  in  its  organization.  This  part  of  the  work 
has  been  effected  without  - any  paid  agency.  The 
money  paid  out  thus  far  has  been  applied  to  the  pur- 
chase of  the  land,  erection  of  buildings,  payment  of 
wages,  the  expenses  attendant  upon  the  cultivation  of 
the  farm,  purchase  of  tools,  implements,  etc.  The 
chief  part  of  the  funds  has  been  absorbed  in  the 
building  expenses,  and,  as  the  land  requires  to  be  ir- 
rigated, wells  have  been  sunk,  and  another  large  item 
of  the  same,  was  employed  for  this  purpose  and  also 
for  the  placing  of  the  pumps  themselves,  which  were 
made  in  England.  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  for  the 
outlay  required  for  the  purchase  of  these  pumps,  the 
institution  has  received  but  little  equivalent  in  the 
way  of  benefit  accruing  from  their  use. 

It  would  have  been  a large  saving  of  their  funds, 
if  they  had  constructed  such  pumps  as  are  used  by 
the  inhabitants  of  the  country  instead  of  importing 
English  ones.  The  native  pump  is  very  simple  in  its 
construction,  and  with  the  aid  of  horses  the  people 
manage  to  supply  their  grounds  with  an  abundance 
of  water,  their  pumps  are  easily  repaired,  if  they  get 
out  of  order,  and  no  one  is  so  unskilful  as  to  require 
the  assistance  of  a mechanic  to  effect  it.  I was  parti- 
cularly struck  with  the  beauty  and  healthfulness  of 
the  situation,  the  excellent  condition  of  the  garden 
and  orange  orchard,  and  with  the  capabilities  or 
the  arable  land'  adjoining  the  latter.  The  dwell- 
ing house  is  situated  on  elevated  ground,  and  com- 
mands an  extensive  view  of  the  Mediterranean  sea, 
the  great  plain  of  Sharon,  and  the  city  of  Joppa, which 
is  distant  about  two  miles.  The  house  is  large  and 

6* 


130 


FROM  JOPPA  TO  JERUSALEM. 


built  of  stone,  and  is  well  calculated  for  the  object  for 
which  it  is  intended.  In  Mr.  Hershon  the  company 
possses  an  able,  intelligent,  and  devoted  agent,  who 
seems  to  thoroughly  understand  the  important  duties 
of  his  office.  The  Christian  character  which  he  and 
his  wife  possess  render  them  in  ail  especial  manner 
qualified  to  be  at  the  head  of  such  an  establishment. 

We  were  most  kindly  received  by  them,  and  were 
hospitably  entertained  while  there.  They  served  us 
with  refreshments,  including  some  choice  black  tea, 
together  with  such  delicacies  as  their  means  and  the 
season  afforded.  The  product  of  this  farm  is  to  be  em- 
ployed first  towards  the  support  of  the  inmates; 
second,  to  supply  the  markets  of  the  neighboring 
country,  and  third,  when  it  is  adapted  to  the  purpose, 
for  exportation.  The  income  from  the  orange  and 
lemon  orchards  alone,  which  produce  the  choicest 
kind  of  fruit,  will,  I doubt  not,  prove  more  than  ade- 
quate for  the  support  of  the  establishment,  and  will 
soon  enable  the  company  to  declare  a dividend  upon 
the  capital  stock,  or  greatly  to  enlarge  their  establish- 
ment, which  they  doubtless  desire  to  do. 


CHAPTER  XXV. 


FROM  JOPPA  TO  JERUSALEM. 


Out  of  Quarantine — Visiting— Dinners — Travelling — My  Views  Confirmed— 
Our  Cortege — Ramleh — Joseph  of  Arithmathea — Its  Location — Latin 
Convents — Square  Tower — View  from  its  Summit — Historical  Associa- 
tions— Olive  Groves— First  Sight  of  Jerusalem — Valley  of  Elah— David 
and  Goliath — Jerusalem. 


While  we  were  detained  in  Quarantine  at  Joppa, 
we  were  called  upon  by  the  American  and  English  part 
of  its  population,  who  kindly  tendered  their  services 
to  us,  and  were  indeed  exceedingly  civil.  I felt  the 


FROM  JOPPA  TO  JERUSALEM. 


131 


obligation  so  much  that,  upon  being  relieved  from 
Quarantine,  we  returned  their  calls  in  person.  - We 
dined  by  invitation,  in  company  with  the  American 
Consul  at  Jerusalem,  who  happened  to  be  at  that 
time  at  Joppa,  at  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Saunders,  who  did 
all  in  their  power  to  render  the  entertainment  agree-  * 
able.  Mr.  Saunders  is  a Baptist  Missionary  at  Joppa, 
and  Mrs.  Saundersran  accomplished  lady. 

While  we  were  at  Mr.  Saunders’  I told  the  party 
how  unhappy  our  friends  at  home  were  in  conse- 
quence of  being  apprehensive  that  I had  selected  for 
my  journey  an  unpropitious  season  of  the  year.  They, 
in  reply,  assured  me  that  the  views  I had  presented 
to  them,  and  which  I informed  them  I had  learned 
from  the  old  writers,  were  correct.  They  said  that 
die  latter  part  of  May,  and  the  whole  of  June  were 
the  healthiest  portions  of  the  year  in  the  Holy  Land. 
They  further  remarked  that  the  Siroco  winds,  which 
are  so  weakening  and  prejudicial  to  the  health,  and 
destructive  to  the  constitution  of  the  unacclimated, 
end  about  the  20th  May,  and  that  the  north  winds 
prevail  through  May  and  June;  that  I would  meet 
with  no  rain  or  other  storms;  that  I would  find  the 
whole  country  parched  up  for  the  want  of  it;  and 
that  there  was  no  rain  from  the  latter  part  of  April 
till  the  end  of  September ; and  they  assured  me,  fur- 
ther, that  my  journey,  unless  1 should  meet  with 
some  accident,  would  be  one  of  uninterrupted  plea- 
sure ; that  it  was  in  fact  the  best  season  of  the  year  I 
could  have  chosen,  I have  found  this  statement  to 
be  reliably  true  in  every  respect,  the  thermometer 
rarely  rising  above  TO  degrees,  and  generally  stand- 
ing at  from  65  to  TO,  and  sometimes  as  low  as  55  de- 
grees. We  have  not  been  delayed  for  a single  mo- 
luent  on  account  of  the  state  of  the  weather  or  sick- 
pess. 

VVe  left  for  Jerusalem  immediately  after  dinner, 


132 


FROM  JOPPA  TO  JERUSALEM. 


and  were  accompanied  by  some  of  the  party  a short 
distance  on  our  route,  when  they  took  leave  of  us, 
wishing  us  health  and  happiness.  We  found  our 
tent  pitched  for  us  at  Ramleh  -on  our  arrival,  four- 
teen miles  from  Joppa.  Our  dragoman  had  supplied 
us  with  seven  men,  comprising  cook,  servants  and 
muleteers,  and  twelve  horses  for  the  conveyance  of 
ourselves,  tents,  provisions  and  baggage.  This  may 
seem  almost  too  many  men  and  horses  for  the  con- 
veyance of  only  two  persons,  but  1 do  not  see  how 
we  could  dispense  with  a single  man  or  horse. 

The  town  of  Ramleh  was  first  known  under  its 
present  name  a.  d.,  870.  It  is  supposed  to  stand  on 
the  site  of  the  ancient  Arimathea,  the  birth-place  of 
Joseph,  that  righteous  man  whose  glory  and  privi- 
lege it  was  to  bury  our  Saviour.  It  is,  nevertheless, 
not  a very  ancient  city,  though  it  was  in  a flourishing 
condition  a.  d.,  1150,  as  we  are  informed  by  Edvise, 
a distinguished  traveller  of  that  day.  According  to 
his  statement,  Jerusalem  and  Ramleh  were,  at  that 
period,  the  two  most  important  cities  of  Palestine. 

Ramleh  is  situated  on  the  great  caravan  route 
from  Damascus  to  Egypt;  but  it  now  is,  like  most  of 
the  towns  and  cities  of  the  Holy  Land,  in  ruins,  and 
its  population  is  reduced  to  less  than  three  thousand 
souls,  composed  chiefly  of  Greeks  and  Armenians. 
The  houses  are  mostly  built  of  stone.  The  Latin  Con- 
vent here  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  country.  My 
friend,  the  American  Consul,  gave  me  a letter,  which 
would  have  secured  me  a kind  and  cordial  reception 
within  this  hospitable  establishment ; but  I preferred 
to  lodge  in  my  tent,  outside  of  the  city,  in  order  to 
be  prepared  to  resume  my  journey  towards  Jeruea- 
sem  at  an  early  hour,  in  the  morning,  with  a view  to 
avoiding  the  heat  of  the  noonday  sun. 

The  chief  object  of  attraction  remaining  here,  is  an 
ancient  square  tower,  one  hundred  and  thirty  feet  in 


FROM  JOPPA  TO  JERUSALEM. 


133 


height,  situated  within  a few  minutes’  walk  of  the 
western  side  of  the  city,  and  standing  on  the  most 
elevated  point  of  land  in  this  vicinity.  It  is  of  Sara- 
cinian  architecture,  and  built  of  hewn  stone.  There 
is  no  satisfactory  account  to  be  found,  either  of  the 
time  when,  or  the  purpose  for  which  it  was  erected. 
Most  travellers  who  have  given  opinions  on  the  sub- 
ject, think  it  was  originally  used  as  a belfry  to  one 
of  the  earliest  Christian  churches  of  the  country. 

There  is  to  be  obtained  a magnificent  view  of  the 
city,  and  surrounding  country  fr*>m  its  top,  and  one 
possessing  great  interest  to  the  Christian  tourist,  from 
the  fact  that  the  scenes  it  overlooks  are  many  of  them 
holy  in  their  reminiscent  character.  The  Mediterra- 
nean Sea,  with  its  beautiful  coast,  lies  in  full  view, 
and  if  the  ancient  cities  of  Gazza,  Askelon,  Aslidad, 
and  others  no  less  historically  interesting,  were  stand- 
ing as  of  yore,  in  all  their  glory  and  grandeur,  they 
could  be  observed  from  this  tower.  The  mountains 
of  Judea,  and  the  great  plain  of  Sharon,  stretching 
from  Gaza  to  Mount  Carmel,  are  also  distinctly  seen 
from  this  elevation,  together  with  the  cities  of  the 
plain  or  rather  their  sites,  embracing  the  town  of 
Lydda,  where  Peter  performed  the  miracle  of  making 
Eneas  whole,  who  had  been  sick  and  confined  to  his 
bed  for  eight  years,  with  the  palsy. 

The  historical  associations  of  this  town,  so  far  as 
relate  to  the  invasion  of  the  Crusaders,  are  full  of  in- 
terest. it  was  abandoned  by  the  infidels  in  1099,  on 
the  approach  of  the  Crusaders,  who  took  possession 
of  it  as  a conquered  town.  It  was  considered  a posi- 
tion of  great  importance  to  the  Christians  during  the 
wars,  in  consequence  of  its  location  between  Joppa 
and  Jerusalem.  In  1187,  after  the  fatal  battle  of 
flatten,  sometimes  called  the  battle  of  Tiberias,  waged 
between  Saladin  and  the  Crusaders,  the  town  fell  in- 
to the  hands  of  the  former.  On  the  approach  of  the 


13  4: 


FROM  JOPPA  TO  JERUSALEM. 


army  led  by  Richard  of  England,  he  of  the  lion  heart, 
in  a.  d.  1191,  Saladin  caused  the  fortifications  of  As- 
kelon  to  be  demolished,  and  Ramleh,  and  the  other 
cities  of  the  plain  to  be  razed,  before  they  fell  again 
into  the  hands  of  the  Christians.  From  this  time  it 
continued  in  their  possession  until  1266,  when  they 
were  finally  driven  from  the  country. 

The  only  things  particularly  noticeable  in  and  about 
Ramleh  at  this  day  are  the  olive  groves,  and  gardens 
of  delicious  fruit,  which  surround  the  town  on  all 
sides,  enclosed  by  impenetrable  hedges  of  prickly 
pears.  These  hedges  do  not,  in  my  opinion,  add  to 
the  beauty  of  the  gardens  ; but  at  certain  seasons  of 
the  year,  they  bear  fragrant  flowers,  and  a fruit  which 
is  considered  very  palatable. 

We  left  Ramleh  at  five  o’clock  in  the  morning,  and 
arrived  at  Jerusalem  at  two  the  same  day,  much  fa- 
tigued, but  in  good  spirits.  The  path — for  they  have 
no  roads  in  this  country — was  intolerably  bad  from 
the  moment  we  reached  the  mountain  region.  Noth- 
ing but  up  and  down  hill,  and  such  hills  as  would 
startle  one  out  of  his  quiet  seat  even  at  the  thought 
of  having  to  cross  them.  Most  of  them  rise  from  800 
to  1,000  feet  in  height,  covered  with  loose  stones,  so 
that  in  going  up  or  down  you  would  say  that  it  were 
impossible  to  pass  over  them  in  safety  ; but  the  horses 
of  this  country  are  accustomed  to  these  wretched 
p iths,  and  we  were  in  no  instance  unhorsed  in  conse- 
quence of  their  bad  state.  The  journey  seemed  to  me 
as  though  it  would  never  end,  notwithstanding  the 
whole  distance  from  the  sea  to  Jerusalem  does  not  ex- 
ceed forty  miles. 

The  only  spot  which  we  saw  to  interest  us  on  our 
route  was  the  valley  of  Elah,  no  great  distance  from 
the  city,  where  the  Philistine  army  was  encamped,  on 
one  of  those  huge  mountains,  against  the  army  led  by 
Saul  on  the  other,  at  the  time  that  David  killed  Go* 


FROM  JOPPA  TO  JERUSALEM. 


135 


liath  with  his  sling  and  stone  in  the  valley  lying  be- 
tween the  two  armies.  After  leaving  this  thrilling 
spot  our  head  muleteer  soon  called  out  in  a loud  voice, 
“ Jerusalem,  Jerusalem!”  which  was  repeated  by  one 
and  all  with  great  joy,  for  it  ended  our  painful  labors 
of  that  day.  As  soon  as  we  reached  the  summit  of 
the  hill  whence  this  view  was  obtained,  we  halted  for 
some  time  and  gazed  upon  this  memorable  city, 
which  is  distant  four  and  a half  miles,  with  no  hill  or 
other  object  to  obstruct  one’s  view.  This  scene  called 
to  my  mind  the  following  lines  from  Paradise  Re- 
gained : 

“ The  Holy  City  lifted  high  her  towers, 

And  higher  yet  the  glorious  temple  reared, 

The  pile  far  off  appearing  like  a mount 
Of  alabaster  topped  with  golden  spires.” 

We  became  so  much  excited  while  gazing  for  the 
first  time  on  the  Holy  City  that  it  was  long  before  we 
were  sufficiently  composed  to  permit  us  to  resume 
our  journey.  The  path  runs  over  a great  plain  to  the 
Joppa  gate.  When,  however,  we  were  fairly  under 
way  again,  we  quickened  our  speed,  and  soon  en- 
tered the  city  at  the  Jaffa  gate,  and  were  conducted 
through  narrow  streets,  where  a carriage  never  en- 
tered, and  where  none  ever  can,  for  they  are  barely 
wide  enough  for  one  to  pass  on  horseback  in  single 
file,  and  the  paving  stones  are  worn  so  smoothly  that 
no  horse  unaccustomed  to  them  could  keep  his  feet 
for  a single  moment.  We  were  so  much  fatigued 
that  we  went  to  bed  immediately,  and  after  resting 
ourselves  were  conducted  through  and  around  the 
city,  to  most  of  the  points  of  interest,  which  we  vis- 
ited time  and  again  under  the  most  favorable  cir- 
cumstances, for  we  were  accompanied  by  our  assis- 
tant consul  and  other  gentlemen  of  distinction,  who 
were  at  home  on  every  subject  and  who  made  us  ac- 
quainted with  everything  in  and  about  that  Holy 
(Jity. 


136 


JERUSALEM. 


CHAPTER  XXYI. 

JERUSALEM 

Site  of  Jerusalem — Convenience  of  Access — Necessary  Arrangements — Anti- 
quity of  the  Holy  City— Change  of  Its  Name— Its  Grandeur,  Beauty,  and 
Riches— I)r.  Barclay — View  from  the  Mediterranean  Hotel— .The  Four 
Hills— Mount  Zion— David  and  the  Royal  Residences  of  his  Successors — 
The  House  where  the  Redeemer  celebrated  His  Passover-  The  Crusaders, 
etc. , etc. 

I thank  heaven  that  my  life  has  been  spared  to  vi- 
sit this  “ venerable  city,  the  joy  of  many  generations, 
and  at  this  day  mournfully  interesting  for  its  sacred 
associations.”  Jerusalem  occupies  an  irregular  pro- 
montory, in  the  midst  of  masses  of  rocks,  crags,  and 
hills;  yet  no  one  can  enter  this  city,  renowned  in  the 
history  of  the  Jewish  nation  and  of  the  world,  and 
celebrated  in  sacred  song,  without  feeling  the  occa- 
sion to  be  one  of  the  most  memorable  in  his  life,  and 
an  event  never  to  be  eradicated  from  his  memory.  I 
know  of  no  more  desirable  place  on  earth  for  a travel- 
ler to  visit.  And  now  that  there  are  several  lines  of 
steamers  running  to  the  ancient  seaport  of  Joppa, 
from  England,  France,  Italy,  Austria,  etc.,  a visit  to 
Jerusalem  is  no  longer  attended  with  serious  inconve- 
nience or  danger.  During  the  months  of  April,  May, 
and  June  the  weather  here  is  usually  mild  and  pleas- 
ant, the  rainy  season  is  over,  and  the  inhabitants  deem 
this  the  healthiest  portion  of  the  year.  An  Ameri- 
can traveller,  furnished  with  a bill  of  credit  on  the 
well-known  house  of  Duncan,  Sherman  & Co.,  of 
New  York,  will  meet  with  no  difficulty  in  supplying 
himself  with  current  funds  in  any  part  of  the  civil- 
ized world.  Until  recently,  travellers  from  the  United 


JERUSALEM. 


137 


States  were  obliged  to  make  their  arrangements  for 
funds  either  in  London  or  Paris,  which  sometimes 
subjected  them  to  serious  inconvenience.  Now,  how- 
ever, all  difficulties  of  this  nature  are  removed. 

Jerusalem  is  conceded  by  the  learned  as  well  as  by 
antiquarians,  to  be  one  of  the  most  ancient  cities  in 
the  world.  In  the  days  of  Abraham,  the  patriarch, 
it  was  known  by  the  name  of  Salem,  for  it  is  written 
in  Genesis  fourteen — that  on  the  return  of  Abraham 
from  the  pursuit  and  overthrow  of  the  enemies  of  the 
Sodomites,  Melchisedek,  King  of  Salem,  brought 
forth  to  Abraham  bread  and  wine.  Its  name  was 
changed  to  Jerusalem  at  an  early  period  ; since,  be- 
fore Joshua  crossed  the  Jordan  with  the  Israelites,  it 
was  distinguished  by  this  name,  and  in  the  list  of 
thirty-one  cities  conquered  by  him,  Jerusalem  is  men- 
tioned. It  was  esteemed  by  Moses  as  one  of  the  most 
important  cities  in  Palestine.  Jeremiah,  in  his  day, 
called  it  the  “ Admirable  City,”  and  David  styled  it 
“The  most  glorious  and  most  illustrious  city  of  the 
earth.”  Such  was  its  grandeur,  even  before  the  temple 
was  built  by  Solomon,  or  the  city  otherwise  adorned 
by  him.  He,  however,  made  it  in  his  time  the  seat 
of  the  refinements  and  arts.  Its  beauty,  its  riches, 
and  its  wise  men  attracted  to  it,  at  that  period,  the 
learned  and  distinguished  of  all  nations. 

It  would  require  volumes  to  impart  an  accurate 
description  of  it,  and  all  the  historical  associations 
therewith  connected.  My  purpose  is  briefly  to  speak 
ot‘  such  objects  as  seem  to  deserve  particular  notice. 
For  more  extended  accounts,  1 recommend  the  valu- 
able work  on  Jerusalem  by  Dr.  J.  T.  Barclay,  an 
American,  who  now  resides  there,  and  has  for  many 
years  made  it  liis  home. 

As  soon  as  I had  recovered  from  the  fatigue  of  my 
journey,  I ascended  to  the  roof  of  the  Mediterranean 
Hotel,  which  is  situated  in  one  of  the  most  elevated 


138 


JERUSALEM. 


portions  of  the  city,  from  whence  I obtained  an  ex- 
tensive view.  The  four  hills  are  still  traced  which 
secured  to  Jerusalem  its  most  remarkable  features. 
These  are  Mounts  Zion,  Moriah,  Acra,  and  Bezetha. 
The  several  valleys  which  divide  the  one  from  the 
other  serve  to  mark  the  different  quarters  of  the  city. 
Mount  Zion,  so  familiar  to  ail  readers  of  sacred  his- 
tory, extends  a considerable  distance  on  the  southwest 
side  of  the  city,  and  rises  from  lift.y  to  one  hundred 
feet  higher  than  either  of  the  other  eminences;  con- 
sequently, every  part  of  it  is  seen  to  advantage  from 
the  spot  I occupied.  dSTo  one  can  look  on  it  for  the 
lirst  time  without  being  moved  almost  to  tears  by  the 
recollection  of  the  mournful  and  thrilling  events  which 
transpired  there  centuries  ago. 

Here  was  David’s  house  and  the  royal  residences 
of  his  successors.  Here,  too,  stands  the  celebrated 
fortress  of  David,  a part  of  which  is  the  famous 
tower  of  Hippicus.  On  this  hill,  also,  stood  the  house 
of  Caiaphas,  the  high  priest,  and  here  now  stands  the 
Church  of  St.  James,  said  to  have  been  erected  where 
the  apostle  James  was  buried.  Here  are  pointed  out, 
even  at  this  day,  the  tombs  of  David  and  Solomon, 
and  near  to  them  stood  the  house  in  which  our  Sa- 
viour celebrated  his  last  passover.  No  part  of  the 
ancient  wall  which  embraced  this  hill,  as  described 
by  Josephus,  was  standing  at  the  time  of  the  capture 
of  the  city  and  the  destruction  of  upward  of  seventy 
thousand  of  its  infidel  inhabitants  by  Godfrey,  at  the 
head  of  the  Crusaders,  on  the  fifteenth  of  July,  a.  d., 
10J9.  The  walls  then  only  embraced,  as  we  learn 
from  the  historians  of  that  day,  Mounts  Moriah, 
Bezetha  and  Acra.  Now  only  a part  of  Zion’s  hill  is 
embraced  within  the  present  walls. 


• JERUSALEM. 


139 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 


JERUSALEM. 


Mount  Moriah— Valley  of  the  Cheesemongers— Mosque  of  Omar — El  Haram— 
Abraham  and  Isaac — The  Guide — Herod’s  Palace — The  Church  of  Flage- 
letia— Pool  of  Hezekiah — Mount  Calvary — Helena,  the  Mother  of  Constan- 
tine— Bishop  Eusebius — King  Agrippa — Emperor  Adrian — Empress  Eu- 
dixia— The  Crusaders — Our  Lord’s  place  of  Sepulchre. 


Mount  Moriah  occupies  the  south-eastern  portion 
of  Jerusalem,  and  is  separated  from  Mount  Zion  by 
theTyropseon  Valley,  (also  known  by  the  unhistorical 
name  of  the  Valley  of  the  Cheesemongers,)  which 
extends  in  a southerly  direction  through  the  city. 
These  two  mounts  were,  at  an  early  period,  united  by 
a bridge  of  several  arches,  crossing  the  valley;  the 
bridge  is  no  longer  standing,  but  the  base  of  one  of 
the  arches  is  still  pointed  out,  and  is  an  object  of 
especial  interest  to  all  tourists. 

Mount  Moriah,  with  its  far  famethMosque  of  Omar, 
lies  much  below  that  part  of  the  city  where  I dwelt ; 
so  that  the  whole  of  the  grounds  within  the  enclosure 
were  spread  out  like  a map  before  me.  The  mosque 
is  not  so  much  a single  edifice  as  a collection  of  build 
mgs.  Its  proper  appellation  is  Ei  Haram,  which  signi- 
fies, in  the  Turkish  language,  a temple — a place  con- 
secrated by  the  presence  of  divinity.  The  Mussul- 
mans, we  are  told,  recognize  only  two  temples  as 
especially  holy,  namely,  this  one  and  the  mosque  at 
Mecca.  This  of  Omar  occupies  the  site  o*f  the  ancient 
temple.  The  historians  describe  this  temple  as  hav- 
ing measured  one  thousand  five  hundred  and  sixty- 
nine  feet  in  length,  by  nine  hundred  and  thirty-eight 


140 


JERUSALEM.  * 


feet  in  breadtli.  The  El  Hararn  forms  a court  or 
closed  area,  and  is  entered  by  nine  gates — of  which 
five  are  on  the  west  side,  one  on  the  north-west,  and 
three  on  the  north  side.  Mount  Moriah  is  celebrated 
as  having  been  regarded  by  the  Jewish  Rabbis  as  the 
identical  spot  on  which  Abraham  offered,  as  a sacri- 
fice, his  son  Isaac. 

In  turning  from  the  southern  to  the  northern  sec- 
tion of  the  city,  my  guide,  a learned  Armenian,  well 
acquainted  with  its  topography,  pointed  out  the  val- 
ley traversing  the  city  from  the  south-west  to  east 
north  east,  extending  to  the  St.  Stephen’s  or  eastern 
gate,  forming  the  two  eminences  or  hills  of  Acra  and 
Bezetha,  lying  to  the  North  of  Zion  and  Mariah.  On 
Bezetha  once  stood  the  palace  of  Herod,  and  at  no 
great  distance  from  its  sire  is  the  Church  of  Flagele- 
tia,  erected  on  the  spot  where  our  Saviour  underwent 
the  ignominious  punishment  of  stripes.  Mount  Acra 
is  situated  on  the  north-west  side  of  the  city,  and  in- 
cludes within  its  limits  the  ancient  pool  of  Hezekiah, 
which  is  now  filled  with  water.  On  this  hill  is  sit- 
uated all  that  remains  of  the  palace  of  the  Knights 
of  St.  John,  and  also  what  tradition  recognizes  as 
Mount  Calvary,  on  the  site  of  which  stands  the  Church 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre — beyond  all  doubt  the  most 
interesting  object  in  Jerusalem.  I gazed  long  and 
attentively  upon  it,  and  my  mind  was  naturally 
drawn  to  consider  the  questions  of  which  so  much  has 
been  said  and  written  : Hid  the  second  wall  of  the  city, 
as  described  by  Josephus,  embrace  the  site  of  this 
church?  From  what  I have  read  in  regard  to  this 
subject,  I have  long  entertained  the  opinion  that  it 
did  not ; and  my  belief  in  this  is  strengthened  by  my 
visit  here,  and  the  assurances  of  my  learned  friend, 
who  has  long  been  an  inhabitant  of  Jerusalem,  whose 
opinions  accord  with  mine  in  every  respect.  I have 
even  believed  that  Helena,  the  aged  and  pious  mo- 


JERUSALEM. 


141 


Cher  of  Constantine,  could  not  have  been  deceived  by 
those  persons  who  pointed  out  the  site,  on  her  visit  to 
Jerusalem  ; for  it  was  less  than  three  centuries  from 
the  time  of  the  crucifixion  to  the  date  of  the  inaugu- 
ration of  the  church  by  the  illustrious  Bishop  Euse- 
bius, in  the  presence  of  thousands  of  Christians,  who 
had  come  from  all  parts  of  the  western  and  eastern 
world  to  witness  the  interesting  ceremony,  and  to 
listen  to  the  panegyric  of  the  Saviour  from  the  mouth 
of  one  of  the  most  holv  and  learned  men.  Besides,  it 
should  be  recollected,  that  in  order  to  keep  that  thrill- 
ing event  alive  in  the  minds  of  that  generation  it 
w<>uld  have  required  only  four  persons,  each  of  the 
age  of  seventy-five  years,  throilg; i whom  it  may  have 
been  handed  down  to  their  respective  descendants. 
Again,  I would  further  remark  that  the  walls  of  the 
city  which  now  embrace  it,  may  have  formed  a por- 
tion of  the  third  wall,  erected  by  King  Agrippa  some 
ten  years  after  the  crucifixion ; or,  this  church  may 
may  have  been  enclosed  within  the  walls  when  they 
were  rebuilt  by  Adrian,  a.  d.  130  ; or,  when  they 
were  rebuilt  by  the  Empress  Eudixia,  a.  d.  437. 
Again,  let  it  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  walls  of  the 
city  were  battered  down  and  rebuilt  several  times, 
with  many  alterations,  during  the  eighty-eight  years 
it  was  held  under  the  Crusaders,  and  it  may  have 
veen  erected  by  them  in  order  to  protect  the  sacred 
edifice  ; for  during  the  whole  of  that  eventful  era 
peace  seldom  dwelt  within  the  enclosure.  The  walls 
were  surrounded  the  greater  part  of  that  period  by 
numerous  hostile  nations,  and  Jerusalem  was  in  a 
constant  state  of  siege.  There  is  a vast  body  of  evi- 
dence to  prove  that  the  spot  on  which  that  edifice 
now  stands  is  really  that  which  was  consecrated  by 
the  burial  of  our  Lord. 


142 


JERUSALEM. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII. 

JERUSALEM. 

Identity  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre— The  Early  Writers’  Views — Adrian’s  Sacri- 
legious Act — Jupiter  and  Venus — In  Sixty  Years — Elliot  Quoted — The 
Truth  Satisfactorily  Established — Dr.  Robinson’s  Opinions — The  King  of 
Persia— Taking  of  the  Holy  City — Sufferings  of  Christians— Mahomet  and 
his  Followers — Desperate  Siege — Terms  of  the  Capitulation — Account  of 
Peter  the  Hermit — Indignation  of  the  Western  Christians 

The  best  argument  I have  met  with  on  the  subject 
treated  of  in  my  last  chapter,  is  given  by  Mr.  Elliot.  If 
there  be  a difficulty,  he  sa}Ts,  in  believing  the  identity 
of  the  reputed  site  of  the  holy  sepulchre,  some  minds 
find  it  equally  difficult  to  disbelieve  it.  On  the  one 
hand  it  is  urged  that  since  the  crucifixion  the  site  of 
the  city  itself  is  forgotten  ; but  at  any  rate  the  real 
place  of  sepulchre  was  outside  the  walls,  whereas  the 
one  here  named  as  such,  never  could  have  been  thus 
located.  To  this  objection  it  is  answered  : first,  that 
the  testimony  of  Eusebius,  Jerome,  Cyril,  Theodoret, 
and  other  early  writers,  coincides  with  the  tradition  ; 
secondly,  that  Adrian,  who  reigned  in  the  beginning 
of  the  second  century,  erected  a statue  of  Jupiter,  on 
the  side  of  the  sepulchre,  and  another  of  Venus  on 
Calvary,  in  order  to  desecrate  those  places,  held 
sacred  by  the  Christians.  That  these  statues  existed 
until  the  days  of  Constantine,  whose  mother,  Helena, 
substituted,  for  that  of  Jupiter,  a church  which, 
though  subsequently  destroyed,  was  rebuilt  within 
forty  years,  and  never  doubted  to  have  stood  on  the 
foundation  of  the  present  structure.  The  advocates 
of  the  authenticity  of  the  tradition  further  urge  that 
the  trace,  if  lost  at  all,  must  have  been  during  the 


JERUSALEM. 


143 


sixty  years  which  intervened  between  the  destruction 
of  the  city  by  Titus,  and  the  erection  of  Adrian’s 
statues ; which  is  highly  improbable,  since  the  sepul- 
chre was  pre-eminently  venerated  and  much  resorted 
to  by  the  early  Christians — a fact  established  by  the 
attempt  to  (Jesecrate  it. 

“ These  facts,”  says  Elliot,  “ can  scarcely  be  set 
aside  by  the  scoff  of  the  sceptic,  or  the  doubt  of  the 
too  timid  inquirer.  But  when  the  circumstances  of 
the  early  Christians  are  considered,  the  frequent  en- 
deavors of  the  Jews  to  disprove  the  Messiah’s  resur- 
rection, and  the  pertinence  with  which  his  disciples 
maintained  it;  their  hopes  of  future  happiness  based 
thereon ; their  boldness  even  unto  death,  and  their 
great  zeal,  rising  superior  to  all  worldly  considera- 
tions— it  seems  hard ly  possible  that,  within  the  period 
of  a single  generation,  the  scenes  of  that  great  event 
should  be  forgotten  ; that  men  who  endangered  life 
to  attest  the  resurrection  of  the  Lord,  honoring  above 
every  other  the  spot  where  it  occurred,  and  having 
that  place  within  their  reach,  should  have  suffered  its 
identity  to  become  doubtful.” 

The  latest  and  most  ingenious  writer  on  the  other 
side  is  Ur.  Kobiuson,  whose  argument  is  familiar  to 
the  student  of  the  Holy  Land.  But  he  has  been  ably 
answered  by  the  iiev.  G.  Williams,  whose  impressions 
are  all  on  the  side  of  that  belief  which  leaves  us  in  the 
quiet  enjoyment  of  our  old  associations.  But  as  it  is 
not  in  the  power  of  man,  by  any  argument  he  may 
use,  to  prevent  scepticism  on  the  subject  of  religion 
or  matters  relating  to  it,  it  is  not  to  be  wondered  at 
that  unbelief  exists  in  relation  to  a subject  of  so  much 
interest  as  the  above.  As  regards  the  present  Church 
of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  I would  remark  that  the 
engravings  representing  its  exterior  and  interior, 
everywhere  to  be  met  with,  are,  so  far  as  I am  able  to 


144 


JERUSALEM. 


judge,  after  a careful  examination  of  the  church 
itself,  perfectly  correct. 

This  celebrated  edifice  remained  without  injury 
from  the  time  of  its  inauguration  until  a.  d.  614, 
a period  of  nearly  three  centuries;  and  during  the 
whole  of  that  time,  pious  pilgrims  to  tin*  Holy  Land 
were  uninterrupted,  notwithstanding  the  world  was 
then  ravaged  by  the  Goths,  the  Huns,  and  the  Van- 
dals ; but  at  this  period  the  King  of  Persia,  at  the 
head  of  a powerful  army,  having  invaded  and  con- 
quered Egypt,  Syria,  and  Palestine,  attacked  Jerusa- 
lem, which  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  worshipp  rs  of 
lire — the  inveterate  enemies  of  the  Christians.  All 
who  survived  that  terrible  conflict  were  taken  from 
the  Holy  City,  and  led  into  captivity.  The  church 
itself  was  burnt  to  the  ground  ; out  the  Emperor, 
Heraclius,  after  ten  years  of  reverses,  triumphed  over 
his  enemies,  and  brought  back  to  Jerusalem  the 
Christians  whose  chains  he  had  broken,  and  in  a.  d. 
6^8  lie  rebuilt  the  church  on  its  former  foundation. 

A few  years  previous  to  this  event  Mahomet  had 
introduced  his  religion;  and  such  was  the  political 
state  of  the  east  at  that  time,  that  no  obstacle  seemed 
to  arise  to  deter  its  progress,  which,  from  its  birth, 
showed  itself  every  where  with  lire  and  sword.  With 
this  new  religion  a new  empire  arose  under  the  armed 
doctrines  of  Mahomet.  Arabia,  Persia2  and  Syria, 
were  soon  conquered  by  his  tro-*ps,  and  Jerusalem  it- 
self was  besieged  in  the  year  636  by  the  great  mili- 
tary commander,  Omar,  Second  Caliph  of  the  Mus- 
sulmans, and  after  a desperate  siege  of  four  months, 
in  which  the  Christians  performed  prodigies- of  valor, 
they  were  obliged  to  surrender  the  city  and  submit  to 
a capitulation,  the  terms  of  which  were  as  follows : 
The  inhabitants  shall  retain  their  lives,  their  property 
and  churches,  but  they  shall  build  no  new  churches, 
nor  place  crosses  upon  those  which  they  already 


JERUSALEM. 


145 


have  : they  shall  not  ring  the  bells : they  shall  con- 
vert no  one  from  Mahometanism  : they  shall  neither 
bear  arms,  nor  sell  wine:  they  shall  remain  faithful 
to  the  Caliph,  and  regularly  pay  their  taxes. 

Their  sufferings  under  the  iron  rule  of  the  Mussul- 
mans were  such  as  to  excite  the  sympathies  of  the 
Christians  throughout  the  world,  and  as  time  lolled 
on,  their  condition,  instead  of  being  improved,  became 
more  and  more  deplorable.  The  Church  of  the  Holy 
Sepulchre,  so  much  venerated  by  them,  was  seriously 
injured  by  the  followers  of  Mahomet,  and  the  Chris- 
tians themselves  were  finally  driven  from  their  homes, 
insulted  in  their  churches,  and  compelled  to  wear  a 
leathern  girdle  around  their  necks  as  a badge  of  their 
servitude.  The  thrilling  account  of  their  sufferings, 
which  Peter  the  Hermit  gave  to  the  western  Chris- 
tians, on  his  return  from  a visit  to  Palestine,  aroused 
that  spirit  of  indignation  against  the  infidels  which 
continued  for  upward  of  two  centuries,  and  which  in- 
duced millions  of  the  western  Christians  to  march  to 
the  relief  of  their  brothers  in  the  faith. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


JERUSALEM. 


Church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre— Wittman’s  description— Stone  of  Unction- 
Singular  Cleft— The  Angels’  Chapel— The  Grating— Chapel  of  St.  Helena 
— Proof  of  Christ’s  Divinity — Via  Dolorosa — Verronica,  the  Pious  Woman 
— Simon — The  Prae  tori  urn,  etc. 


Although  the  church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre  was 
much  injured  during  these  troublesome  times,  it  nev- 
ertheless remained  standing  for  one  thousand  two 
hundred  and  eighty  years,  and,  indeed,  until  1808, 

7 


146 


JEEUSALEM. 


when  it  was  utterly  destroyed  by  fire — there  being 
nothing  saved  from  the  ravages  of  the  flames  but  the 
tomb  itself  and  its  ornaments.  It  was,  however,  soon 
rebuilt  in  all  its  ancient  grandeur,  and  there  is  every 
reason  to  believe  that  in  its  reconstruction  it  has  un- 
dergone no  material  alteration.  It  stands  now  as  it 
did  when  first  visited  by  the  pilgrims  who  were  ready 
to  shed  their  blood  to  deliver  it  from  the  hands  of  the 
infidels. 

Sands’  description  of  it,  as  it  appeared  upward  of 
two  centuries  ago,  when  he  visited  it,  and,  also,  that 
by  William  Wittman,  who  was  at  Jerusalem  in  1799 
— nine  years  only  before  it  was  destroyed  by  fire — 
would  answer,  so  far  as  I can  judge,  of  the  present  ed- 
ifice, Wittman’s  description  reads  thus: — “On  en- 
tering the  church,  the  stone  of  unction  presents  it- 
self, where  our  Saviour  was  embalmed  by  Joseph  and 
Hicodemus,  to  the  right  of  which  is  the  ascent  to 
Mount  Calvary  by  twelve  steps,  where  is  seen  the 
hole  in  which  the  cross  was  placed,  and  where  is  a 
cleft  in  the  mountain,  occasioned  by  the  earthquake 
after  our  Saviour’s  death.  From  the  place  of  cruci- 
fixion you  descend  to  the  holy  sepulchre,  where  forty 
lamps  are  constantly  kept  burning.  Before  the  en- 
trance to  the  tomb  is  the  angel’s  chapel,  a little  larger 
than  the  sepulchre.  Here  sat  the  angel  who,  after 
the  resurrection  of  our  Lord,  appeared  to  the  holy 
women.  On  leaving  the  chapel,  at  the  distance  of  a 
few  paces,  is  the  place  where  the  Lord,  after  he  had 
risen,  was  seen  by  Mary  Magdalene.  Hear  by  is  the 
church  where  our  Lord  made  his  first  appearance  to 
the  holy  mother  after  the  resurrection.  On  the  right 
of  the  great  altar  is  a place  closed  from  sight  by  a 
screen  or  grating,  within  which  is  a part  of  the  col- 
umn to  which  he  was  bound  and  scourged  ; on  the 
left  is  a portion  of  the  holy  cross,  and  near  it  is  the 
spot  where  it  was  found.  By  a descent  of  twenty- 


JERUSALEM. 


147 


nine  steps  yon  reach  the  chapel  of  St.  Helena,  huilt 
upon  the  place  where  she  stood  when  the  cross  was 
discovered.  Under  the  mount  of  Calvary  is  the  chapel 
of  Adam.  Behind  the  holy  sepulchre  is  the  monu- 
ment of  Joseph  of  Ariinathea,  who  obtained  of  Pilate 
the  body  of  Jesus.”  Some  of  the  objects  spoken  of  in 
the  above  account  were  destroyed  or  changed  in  ap- 
pearance by  the  fire ; but  I think,  after  a careful  ex- 
amination of  the  church  itself,  Mr.  Wittman’s  des- 
scription  of  it,  as  it  was  previous  to  the  lire,  is  cor- 
rect, and  satisfactorily  describes  it  as  it  exists  at  the 
present  day. 

In  regard  to  the  rents  in  the  rock,  it  may  be  inter- 
esting to  remark  that,  in  Fleming’s  “ Christiology,” 
it  is  stated  a learned  traveller,  who  had  long  been  a 
student  of  nature,  after  examining  them  carefully, 
said  he  was  sure  they  were  never  produced  by  an  or- 
dinary earthquake  ; since  in  such  an  event  the  rock  is 
split  according  to  the  veins,  and  where  it  is  weakest. 
But  it  is  quite  otherwise  here,  for  they  are  broken 
across  the  veins,  in  a strange,  and  supernatural  man- 
ner. He  pronounced  this  tc^)e  a standing  testimony 
of  a miraculous  power  by  which  God  gives  proof  to 
this  day  of  the  divinity  of  Christ.  On  leaving  the 
church  of  the  Holy  Sepulchre,  I took  the  Via  Doloro- 
sa— the  road  along  which  our  Saviour  passed  on  his 
way  to  Calvary,  and  which  is  marked  by  so  many  ten- 
der memorials  of  his  patience  and  suffering.  I passed 
the  gate  of  judgment — or  all  that  remains  of  it — 
through  which,  under  the  Jewish  reign,  criminals 
formerly  passed  to  judgment. 

“ Here,”  said  my  guide,  “ is  where  our  Lord  and 
Saviour  entered  on  the  open  path  to  Calvary,  and 
which  is  only  eight  hundred  paces  from  the  house  of 
Pilate.  Here,”  he  continued,  as  we  advanced,  “ is 
the  place  where  Yerronica  dwelt,  the  pious  woman 
who,  seeing  our  Lord  and  Saviour  covered  with  blood, 


148 


JERUSALEM 


which  streamed  from  his  wounded  brow,  gave  him  a 
napkin,  and  was  rewarded  with  a miraculous  impres- 
sion of  his  countenance  on  the  cloth.” 

“ There,”  he  said,  “is  the  spot  where  stood  the 
crowd  of  weeping  women  to  whom  He  said,  4 Weep 
not  for  me,  ye  daughters  of  Israel.5  And  here,”  he 
added,  stopping  at  the  corner  of  the  street  leading 
from  the  Damascus  gate,  “is  the  place  where  Simon, 
a Cyrenian,  who  passed  by,  was  compelled  to  bear  the 
cross. 

• We  next  came  to  the  spot  where  the  mother  of  our 
Lord  met  him  on  his  way  to  Calvary  ; and  then  the 
palace  of  Pilate,  within  which  was  the  judgment  seat 
wliere  our  Lord  was  given  into  the  hands  of  the  Jews 
to  be  crucified,  and  was  by  them  carried  into  the  Prge- 
torium — a hall  within  the  same  edifice — where  they 
bound  him  to  the  column  and  put  a crown  of  thorns  on 
his  head,  saying,  “ Hail,  king  of  the  Jews  !”  My  guide 
next  pointed  out  the  place  where  he  was  scourged,  and, 
also,  all  that  remained  of  the  arch  where  Pilate  stood 
when  he  pronounced  tl^e  memorable  words,  “ Behold 
the  man  !”  I saw,  too,  the  place  where  he  is  said  to 
have  fallen  under  the  weight  of  the  cross.  Here  we 
carefully  examined  the  hole,  still  remaining  in  the 
foundation  walls  of  the  building,  where,  it  is  believed, 
the  cross  rested  at  the  time  he  fell  with  it. 

From  here  we  proceeded  to  the  pool  of  Bethesda, 
now  entirely  dry.  It  was  at  this  pool  where,  it  is 
written  in  the  Scriptures,  “ a certain  man  was  there 
which  had  an  infirmity  thirty  and  eight  years.  When 
Jesus  saw  him  lie,  and  knew  that  he  had  been  now  a 
long  time  in  that  case  he  saitli  unto  him,  Wilt  thou 
be  made  whole?  _ The  impotent  man  answered  him, 
Sir,  1 have  no  man,  when  the  water  is  troubled,  to 
put  me  into  the  pool:  but  while  I am  coming,  another 
steppeth  down  before  me.  Jesus  saith  unto  him, 
Iiise,  take  up  thy  bed,  and  walk.  And  immediately 


JERUSALEM. 


149 


the  man  was  made  whole,  and  took  up  his  bed,  and 
walked.” 

After  examining  this  pool  and  reflecting  upon  the 
wonderful  aud  miraculous  cure  effected  thus  by  our 
Saviour,  we  proceeded  to  St.  Stephen’s  gate. 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

JERUSALEM. 


Birthplace  of  the  Virgin  Mary -St.  Stephen’s  Martyrdom— Damascus  Gate— 
Wailing-Place— Golden  Gate  of  the  Temple— The  Jews’  Quarter — The  He- 
brews’ position  in  Palestine— Division  of  the  City — Place  of  Lepers. 

Near  St.  Stephen’s  Gate  is  pointed  out  a mosque, 
where  it  is  said  the  Virgin  Mary  was  born,  and  just 
without  the  Gate  is  the  spot  where  St.  Stephen  was 
stoned  by  the  Jews,  not  far  distant  from  the  cistern 
into  which  his  body  was  afterward  thrown.  After  ex- 
amining these  localities,  with  much  interest,  I passed 
outside  of  the  walls  to  the  Damascus  Gate,  which 
presents  the  most  perfect  and  beautiful  specimens  of 
Syrian  architecture  anywhere  to  be  found. 

Leaving  the  Gate,  I walked  through  the  Via  Dol- 
orosa, and  from  thence  to  the  wailing-place  of  the 
Jews,  on  Mount  Moriah.  This  is  esteemed  by  the 
Hebrews  the  most  sacred  place  within  the  limits  of 
Jerusalem,  on  account  of  its  vicinity  to  the  u Holy 
of  Holies.”  Here  large  numbers  of  them  repair  daily 
to  wail  and  to  pray  ; and  on  Fridays  the  number  is 
much  greater  than  on  other  days.  The  people  face 
the  wall,  which  they  believe  to  be  a part  of  the  ori- 
ginal wall  of  the  temple.  On  the  day  I visited  the 
place,  there  were  many  assembled — both  males  and 


150 


JERUSALEM. 


females  : some  were  reading  their  prayers,  in  an  un- 
dertone, while  others  were  devoutly  praying,  or  read- 
ing their  prayers  aloud,  exclaiming,  with  broken  sobs, 
<k  How  long  yet,  oh  Lord  ! oh,  Lord,  how  long?”  To 
me  it  was  an  impressive  service,  and  I felt  that  their 
prayers  were  offered  in  the  full  belief  that  the  Lord 
will  appear  to  them,  at  no  distant  da}r,  and  restore 
this,  their  former  home,  to  them  and  their  descen- 
dants. 

Hot  far  from  this  holy  place,  stands  the  celebrated 
Golden  Gate  of  the  temple,  now  closed,  it  having  been 
blocked  up  by  the  Mussulmans,  on  account  of  the  be- 
lief they  entertain  that  at  some  future  day,  should 
they  neglect  this  precaution,  it  will  be  entered  by  a 
king,  who  will  not  only  take  possession  of  the  city, 
but  will  extend  his  reign  over  the  whole  earth. 

I next  vjsited  what  is  called  the  Jews’  quarter  of 
the  city,  and  was  conducted  through  their  various 
public  edifices,  including  their  synagogues.  I was 
courteously  shown  by  them  everything  which  they 
thought  deserving  of  particular  notice.  I received 
from  all  marks  of  respect  and  kindness.  The}r  are  a 
fine-looking  class  of  people,  and  even  if  the  friend  who 
accompanied  me  on  this  occasion,  had  not  informed 
me  where  I was,  I should  have  had  no  difficulty  in 
knowing  that  I was  in  the  Jewish  section  of  the  citv  ; 
for  they  are,  indeed,  a peculiar  people,  and  the  same 
traits,  both  of  feature  and  mind,  are  apparent  in  them 
all,  whether  they  dwell  in  Europe,  Asia,  Africa,  or 
America.  If  the  Jews  do  not  occupy  a position  such 
as  they  formerly  did  in  Palestine,  they  are,  at  least, 
both  here  and  throughout  the  Turkish  dominions,  in  a 
measure  restored  to  the  rights  of  man. 

The  inhabitants  of  Jerusalem,  as  I learn,  have,  with- 
out consultation  among  themselves,  selected  different 
parts  of  the  city  for  their  respective  residences.  The 
Christians  reside  chiefly  west  of  the  street  leading 


JERUSALEM. 


151 


from  the  Damascus  to  Zion’s  Gate.  The  Jews  occupy 
the  northeast  side  of  Mount  Zion,  and  the  Turks  all 
other  parts  of  the  city. 

Being  in  the  neighborhood  of  Zion’s  Gate,  I was 
conducted  to  the  spot  occupied  by  those  who  are 
afflicted  with  that  loathsome  disease,  the  leprosy — a 
disease  of  which  Iliad  read  and  heard  much,  though 
I knew  little  of  its  real  character,  until  my  visit  to 
this  spot.  It  is  not  regarded  there  either  as  conta- 
gious, or  deserving  of  special  repugnance.  It  wa&, 
however,  with  a feeling  of  great  disgust  that  I looked 
on  these  miserable  objects.  Their  faces  are  swollen, 
and  covered  with  eruptions,  their  hair  fallen  off,  and 
their  c<ynplexions  livid  and  colorless.  Still  they  marry 
and  children  are  born  to  them  who  invariably 
inherit  the  frightful  disease  of  their  parents.  The 
lepers  usually  range  themselves  in  rows,  and  extend 
their  hands  toward  the  passers-by,  for  alms.  Their 
condition  is  so  frightful  that  no  one  is  disposed  to  re- 
main long  among  them. 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

JERUSALEM. 

Population  of  Jerusalem  at  Various  Times— Its  Oriental  Character— Accom- 
modations for  Pilgrims— Building  Improvements— Armenian  Hospitals — 
The  Patriarch’s  Palace — Greek  School— Catholic  Edifices— Jewish  Syna- 
gogues—Episcopal  Churches— Lack  of  Lumber  -Timber  from  Maine— 
Beasts  of  Burden — Railroad  from  Joppa — The  Lion — Cisterns. 

There  is  now  but  little  in  Jerusalem  to  recommend 
it  as  a place  of  sojourn  to  the  tourist  beyond  its  sacred 
and  historical  associations,  but  these  give  to  it  a glory 
of  its  own,  which  neither  the  sword  of  the  conqueror, 
the  ploughshare  of  the  agriculturist,  nor  the  ravages 
of  time,  can  ever  destroy. 


152 


JERUSALEM. 


Its  population  does  not  much  exceed  twenty-five 
thousand,  and  yet,  if  we  are  to  credit  the  account 
given  of  it  by  Josephus,  at  the  time  it  was  razed  to 
tiie  ground  by  Titus,  a.  d.  70,  it  must  then  have  pos- 
sessed a population  of  between  one  and  two  millions. 
Josephus  says  there  were  one  million  one  hundred 
thousand  Jews  who  perished  in  that  fatal  conflict ; but 
whether  his  statement  is  correct  or  not,  it  is  quite  cer- 
tain that  it  was  one  of  the  most  terrible  and  desperate 
of  sieges,  and  one  in  which  more  lives  were  lost  than 
in  any  other  on  record.  It  must  be  conceded,  how- 
ever, that  the  city,  as  now  enclosed,  could  not  contain 
such  a population,  or  even  that  which  it  held  when, 
in  587  b.  c.,  it  was  captured  by  Nebuchadnezzar,  nor 
when  Alexander  the  Great  removed  upward  of  one 
hundred  thousand  of  its  inhabitants  into  Egypt ; but 
probably  the  walls  of  the  city  in  those  days  extended 
far  beyond  its  present  limits,  for  there  are  no  obstacles 
in  the  way  of  such  extension.  The  plain  from  the 
Joppa  gate  extends  in  a westerly  direction  upwards 
of  four  miles,  and  some  live  or  six  miles  on  the  north- 
west and  north  sides  thereof.  The  city  is  peculiarly 
Oriental  in  its  character;  the  streets  are  narrow,  baivly 
wide  enough  to  admit  the  numerous  caravans,  with 
their  long  trains  of  camels  in  single  files,  from  Meso- 
potamia and  the  far  East,  laden  with  the  valuable  pro- 
ductions of  those  regions.  Caravans  from  Egypt,  the 
sea-coast,  and  Damascus,  are  to  be  met  with  through- 
out the  city.  The  dwellings  are  built  of  stone,  are 
all  fire-proof,  and  hence  it  is  a rare  occurrence  for 
any  property  within  the  walls  to  be  destroyed  by 
fire. 

In  my  rambles  through  the  town,  I saw  many  im- 
provements recently  made,  and  others  in  progress, 
such  as  churches,  palaces  for  the  clergy,  and  public 
edifices  of  various  cnaracters — some  designed  for  in- 
stitutions of  learning,  others  for  hospitals  for  the  sick, 


JERUSALEM. 


153^ 

and  still  others  for  the  accommodation  of  pilgrims 
from  all  parts  of  the  world.  The  number  of  religious 
pilgrims,  instead  of  decreasing,  as  has  been  repre- 
sented, annually  increases. 

The  Armenians  have  erected,  south  of  the  Joppa 
gate,  an  extensive  edifice,  covering  eight  acres  of 
ground,  and  capable  of  accommodating  eight  thou- 
sand pilgrims.  No  expense  or  skill  has  been  spared 
in  its  construction.  The  same  people  have  also  erected 
a large  hospital  near  the  Zion’s  gateway  for  the  sick 
and  disabled,  and  a noble  palace,  richly  ornamented, 
for  their  patriarch.  On  visiting  the  palace,  I wa^s  pre- 
sented to  his  highness,  and  was  afterward  conducted 
through  the  numerous  apartments,  which  were  sump- 
tuously furnished,  and  the  walls  and  ceilings  decor- 
ated in  excellent  taste.  Many  of  the  rooms  were  cov- 
ered with  Turkish  carpets,  and,  indeed,  everything 
corresponded  therewith.  I noticed  some  tine  paint- 
ings and  many  admirable  engravings.  From  the 
roof  of  the  palace  a good  view  is  obtained  of  the  city 
and  surrounding  country. 

The  Greeks  have,  also,  erected  several  large  pub- 
lic edifices,  including  hospitals  and  schools.  The 
Catholics  have  likewise  expended  much  money  in 
building  new  edifices,  and  in  repairing  and  adorning 
many  others. 

The  Jews  are  now  engaged  in  building  a large  hos- 
pital, connected  with  a puolic  school.  The  money  for 
this  purpose  was  given  by  a Mr.  Truro,  a wealthy  mer- 
chant of  New  Orleans,  to  whom  a:l  honor  is  due. 
They  are  also  erecting  a splendid  synagogue  with  funds 
given  them  by  a rich  Jew  of  Bagdad.  The  Episco- 
palians have  a chaste  and  beautiful  church,  and  are 
about  erecting,  I was  told,  a palace  for  their  bishop. 

I will  not  undertake  to  enumerate  all  the  improve- 
ments already  made,  nor  those  in  progress  and  con- 
templation ; sufficient  to  state  that  when  completed 

7* 


\*154 


JERUSALEM. 


they  will  add  greatly  to  the  beauty  of  the  city  and 
the  comfort  of  the  inhabitants.  The  Greeks  and  Ar- 
menians have  each  expended  much  more  money  in 
these  works  than  any  of  the  other  denominations.  The 
greatest  difficulty  they  have  to  encounter  in  making 
these  improvements,  is  the  want  of  timber  and  lum- 
ber ; for  there  are  none  in  the  country.  These  mater- 
ials are  imported  from  other  countries  to  the  several 
seaport  towns  in  Palestine.  I noticed,  with  a feeling 
of  pleasure,  while  I was  on  the  sea-coast,  that  a line 
vessel  from  Boston  was  discharging  a cargo  of  lum- 
ber, brought  from  the  state  of  Maine.  As  there  are 
no  public  roads  in  Palestine,  all  the  building  mater- 
ials, of  every  description,  are  conveyed  to  and  from 
the  cities  on  the  backs  of  camels,  mules,  or  donkeys. 
I have  seen  hundreds  of  donkeys  in  a line,  bearing 
heavy  loads  of  stones,  which  they  appear  to  carry 
with  ease  over  the  most  difficult  passes.  1 have  further 
seen,  in  the  rural  districts,  droves  of  camels  loaded 
with  sheaves  of  wheat,  piled  up  in  stacks  on  their 
backs,  on  their  way  to  and  from  the  threshing  floors. 
I am,  however,  induced  to  think  that  the  difficulty  in 
the  way  of  transportation  will  soon  be  removed,  for 
the  Syrians  have  it  seriously  in  contemplation  to  con- 
struct a railroad  from  Joppa  to  Jerusalem,  which  dis- 
tinguished engineers  have  assured  them  is  practicable, 
notwithstanding  the  mountain  ranges  of  Judea  seem  to 
present  insurmountable  obstacles  in  the  way  of  sucli 
an  improvement. 

I regard  the  walls,  ramparts,  and  gates  of  the  city, 
which  have  been  standing  for  so  many  centuries,  as 
objects  of  great  attraction.  Among  other  decorations 
at  these  gateways,  I noticed  the  figure  of  the  lion, 
which,  doubtless,  was  designed  to  represent  the  “ Lion 
of  the  tribe  of  Judah.”  1 w as,  also,  much  interested 
in  examining  the  numerous  public  and  piivate  cis- 
terns for  the  reception  of  rain-water,  which  falls  dur- 


JERUSALEM. 


155 


ing  the  winter  or  rainy  season.  The  water  thus  col- 
lected furnishes  an  ample  supply  for  all  purposes  dur- 
ing the  dry  or  summer  season.  Formerly,  when  the 
country  was  involved  in  a war,  the  armies  besieging 
the  city  were  often  compelled  to  abandon  the  siege 
for  want  of  a supply  of  water,  but  the  inhabitants 
within  the  walls  were,  by  reason  of  their  cisterns, 
never  without  it. 


CHAPTER  XXXH. 

JERUSALEM. 

Situation  of  Jerusalem— The  Valleys — Mount  of  Olives— Pool  of  Gihon— King 
Solomon — Hill  of  Evil  Counsel — Tophet— Baal — Moloch. 

The  city  of  Jerusalem  is  often  represented  in  en- 
gravings as  lying  on  a side  hill,  inclining  toward  the 
south.  This  position  is  not  the  correct  one — for  it 
actually  is  on  the  plain  at  the  top  of  the  mountain. 
Zion’s  Hill  is  higher  by  about  fifty  feet  than  any  part 
of  the  southern  portion  of  Jerusalem,  which  shows 
that  the  town  cannot  slope  toward  the  south. 

In  regard  to  the  valleys,  I would  remark  that  Jhe 
Gihon  valley  (the  valley  of  Grace)  on  the  west  side  of 
the  city,  does  not  reach  to  the  full  extent  of  the  walls 
on  that  side,  as  I was  led  to  believe  it  did.  It  com- 
mences a little  south  of  the  Joppa  gate,  and  passes  in 
a southerly  direction  some  distance,  and  turns  to  the 
east.  Going  down  the  valley,  I obtained  a tine  view 
of  the  Kedron  valley  at  a point  where  the  two  unite 
at  the  southern  base  of  the  Mount  of  Olives.  Here 
the  waters,  commingling,  flow  through  a deep  gorge 
in  an  easterly  direction  toward  the  Dead  Sea.  I had 
also  a perfect  view  of  the  southern  termination  of  the 
lull  on  which  Jerusalem  is  situated,  as  also  that  of 


156 


JERUSALEM. 


* 

the  Mount  of  Olives.  These  ridges  run  parallel  with 
each  other,  and  that  of  the  latter  extends  a little 
farther  south  than  the  former.  The  Gihon  valley 
varies  in  width  from  two  hundred  and  seventy-five  to 
four  hundred  feet.  It  is  the  former  width  at  the 
reservoir,  or  Pool  of  Gihon,  which  is  formed  by 
a wall  of  that  extent  running  like  a mill-dam  across 
it.  The  pool  is  nearly  six  hundred  feet  in  length  and 
over  forty  feet  in  depth.  The  upper  pool  of  Gihon 
is  some  distance  above  the  lower,  is  similar  in  its 
construction,  and  about  half  the  size  of  the  lower 
one.  These  pools  are  now,  and,  indeed,  have  been 
for  many  centuries,  identified  with  the  historical  cir- 
cumstance that  at  one  of  them  Solomon  was  crowned 
king,  in  the  year  1017  b.  c.,  as  related  in  First  Kings, 
first  chapter,  and  thirty  third  verse ; but  whether  at 
the  upper  or  lower  pool  is  a question  involved  in 
doubt.  My  own  opinion  is,  that  as  the  plain  at  the 
upper  pool  is  an  extensive  one,  and,  therefore,  better 
calculated  than  the  other  for  accommodating  a large 
assemblage  of  people,  which  such  an  occasion  would 
be  likely  to  bring  together,  that  it  was  selected  for  the 
performance  of  tiie  ceremony.  At  no  great  distance 
from  the  upper  pool  is  located  the  charnel-house, 
filled  with  human  skeletons,  whose  bodies  were 
brought  there  for  interment. 

In  passing  down  the  valley,  my  guide  pointed  out 
the  Hill  of  Evil  Counsel,  situated  on  the  slope  of  the 
ridge  that  bounds  the  valley  on  the  south.  Here  Ju- 
das, the  betrayer  of  our  Lord  and  Saviour,  consulted 
with  those  who  would  take  him,  as  to  the  means  to 
be  employed. 

We  next  came  to  that  part  of  the  valley  called  To- 
pliet:  and  it  is  proper  at  this  place  to  observe  that 
the  valley,  although  one  and  the  same,  is  known  by 
several  names.  It  is  called  Gihon  valley,  from  its 
commencement  to  the  aqueduct;  from  thence  it  is 


JERUSALEM. 


157 


known  by  the  name  of  Hinnom,  and  has  been  since 
the  days  of  Joshua;  a part  of  the  way,  at  a point 
south  of  Jerusalem,  it  is  called  in  Scripture  the  valley 
of  Tophet.  It  was  at  this  point  that  the  kings  of  Ju- 
dea, at  a very  early  period,  ordained  the  idolatrous 
priests  to  burn  incense  to  Baal,  the  sun,  the  moon,  all 
the  planets,  and  the  entire  heaven.  Here  the  children 
of  Jerusalem  were  offered  up  as  living  sacrifices  to 
Moloch  by  casting  them  into  the  arms  of  the  heated 
statue  of  that  god,  (Jeremiah,  seventh  chapter,  thirty- 
first  verse  ;)  and  here,  too.  as  if  to  atone  in  some 
measure  for  the  sin  of  that  horrible  worship  by  the 
wanton  sacrifice  of  so  many  human  beings,  between 
one  and  two  hundred  thousand  of  the  dead  bodies  of 
the  Jews  were  indiscriminately  thrown,  at  the  time 
the  city  was  taken  and  destroyed  by  Titus — thus  lite- 
rally fulfilling  the  prophecy  of  the  prophet  Jeremiah, 
as  written  in  the  seventh  chapter  and  thirty-second 
verse. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 

JERUSALEM. 

Jacob’s  Well— Valleys  of  Jehoshaphat,  Gethsemane,  Siloam,  and  Kedron — Pool 
of  Siloam— Hill  of  Ophel — Mount  of  Corruption — Fountain  of  the  Virgin 
— Tomb  of  the  Virgin  Max*y. 

As  we  proceeded  east,  toward  the  junction  of  the 
valleys  of  Hinnom  and  Kedron,  we  came  to  the  an- 
cient well  of  Jacob,  which  has  for  centuries  past  fur- 
nished a large  supply  of  pure  and  wholesome  water. 
Standing  by  the  well,  I had  a fine  view  of  the  valley 
on  the  east  side  of  the  city,  which  is  known  un- 
der several  names — that  is  to  say,  Jehoshaphat,  Geth- 


158 


JERUSALEM. 


semane,  Siloara,  and  Kedron.  The  northern  part  of 
it  is  called  Jehoshaphat,  and  the  southern  portion 
Kedron.  All  travellers  visit  this  valley  with  great 
interest.  It  varies  in  width  from  four  to  six  hundred 
fept.  The  widest  part  is  at  the  southern  extremity 
where  lie  the  king’s  gardens.  Tradition  informs  us 
that  these  gardens  were  laid  out  with  much  taste,  and 
covered  with  groves  and  flowering  shrubs ; but  at 
present  only  a few  old  trees  remain  of  all  its  former 
magnificence.  These  gardens  were  irrigated  by  the 
waters  of  the  pool  of  Siloatn,  as  related  in  the  third 
chapter  of  Hehemiah,  thus  showing  that  this  pool  is 
of  a very  ancient  date,  and  that  the  entrance  to  it 
from  the  city  of  David  was  by  a private  stairway. 
The  walls  of  the  city  have  undergone  great  changes 
since  that  period,  but  this  celebrated  pool  still  re- 
mains, at. the  junction  of  the  Hinnom  with  the  Kedron 
valley,  at  the  foot  of  the  Mount  of  Ophel. 

It  was  of  the  fountain  of  Si  loam  that  our  Saviour 
said,  addressing  the  man  who  had  been  blind  from  his 
birth,  “ Go,  wash  in  the  pool  of  Siloam  from  whence 
he  returned  with  his  sight  restored.  Here,  too,  stood 
the  tower  of  Siloam,  which,  falling,  killed  eighteen 
men.  It  was  near  this  pool,  when  Jesus  was  told  of 
the  Galileans,  whose  blood  Pilate  had  mingled  with 
his  sacrifices,  he  made  use  of  these  memorable  words  : 
— ‘‘Suppose  ye,  that  these  Galileans  were  sinners 
above  all  Galileans,  because  they  suffered  such  things? 
I tell  ye  nay;  but  except  ye  repent,  ye  shall  all  like- 
wise perish.”  It  is  impossible  for  any  one  to  visit  so- 
venerated  a shrine  without  feelings  of  the  deepest 
emotion. 

I ascended  the  hill  of  Ophel,  on  one  occasion,  from, 
this  pool ; there  is  no  regular  pathway,  but  as,  the  as- 
cent is  a gentle  one,  the  distance  being  about  sixteen 
hundred  feet,  I experienced  no  difficulty  in  making 
my  way.  The  thermometer,  I found,, om reaching, th& 


JERUSALEM. 


159 


top,  stood  at  eighty-five  degrees.  From  this  point  I 
obtained  several  fine  views  of  the  valley  and  the  sur- 
rounding country. 

But  to  return  to  the  narrative  of  my  walk  up  the 
celebrated  valley.  On  proceeding  a short  distance 
bejmnd  the  pool,  I came  to  the  Mount  of  Corruption, 
Scandal,  or  Offence,  situated  on  the  southern  slope  of 
the  Mount  of  Olives..  It  was  here  that  Solomon,  in 
his  old  age,  became  as  ingloriously  distinguished  for 
his  effeminacy  and  folly  as  in  his  youth  he  was  re- 
nowned for  his  wisdom.  Here  he  built  a high  place 
for  Chemoh,  the  abomination  of  Moab  and  Moloch,  of 
the  children  of  Ammon,  and  likewise  for  all  his  wives, 
who  burnt  incense  and  sacrifices  unto  their  strange 
gods.  This  place  is  now  the  site  of  Siloam,  doubtless 
called  so  in  consequence  of  its  being  situated  opposite 
the  fountain  of  that  name.  Sometimes,  however,  it 
is  called  the  Sepulchral  village.  I think,  myself,  it 
might,  with  propriety,  still  be  called  the  Place  of 
Abomination,  for  its  present  inhabitants  are  nor,  es- 
teemed the  most  honest  in  Judea.  The  sepulchres 
cut  in  the  solid  rock  at  this  spot  are  now  used  as  pla- 
ces of  abode  by  the  villagers.  I passed  on  foot  with 
much  difficulty  through  this  village,  in  descending, 
on  one  occasion,  the  Mount  of  Olives.  There  is  no 
regular  street  or  path  through  it.  Its  dwellings  rise 
step-wise  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  which,  in  some 
places,  is  quite  precipitous. 

After  leaving  this  village,  I passed  up  the  valley  to 
the  Fountain  of  the  Virgin,  or  King’s  Pool,  situated 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  hill  of  Ophel,  below  the 
south-east  angle  of  the  walls  of  the  city.  There  are 
some  persons  who  maintain  that  it  is  the  pool  of  Be- 
th esda,  because  of  its  being  an  intermittent  fountain, 
rising  and  falling  at  irregular  intervals,  which  they 
say  were  indicative  of  the  u troubling  of  the  waters.” 
These  waters,  though  slightly  saline,  are  constantly 


160 


JERUSALEM. 


used  for  domestic  purposes,  and  are  devoid  of  any 
medicinal  virtues.  This  pool  has  a covered  enclosure 
of  stone,  with  a number  of  stone  steps,  affording  an 
easy  descent  to  the  water.  In  continuing  my  ramble 
up  the  valley,  I came  to  the  tombs  of  Jehoshaphat, 
Zachariah,  St.  James,  and  the  pillar  of  Absalom,  hewn 
out  of  the  solid  rock.  These  ancient  tombs  are  In  a 
better  state  of  preservation  than.any  of  the  remains  I 
have  met  with  here,  and  they  cannot  but  attract  the 
attention  of  all  tourists. 

I came  next  to  the  tomb  of  the  Yirgin  Mary,  situ- 
ated on  the  north  side  of  the  path  leading  from  St. 
Stephen’s  gate  to  the  summit  ot*  the  Mount  of  Olives. 
A very  handsome  subterranean  chapel  is  erected  on 
the  spot,  dedicated  to  the  Yirgin.  It  is  ornamented 
with  line  paintings,  and  other  costly  ornaments,  and 
is  brilliantly  lighted  at  all  times.  Several  priests  are 
usually  in  attendance  at  the  chapel,  and  at  stated 
hours  each  day  prayers  are  offered,  in  which  large 
numbers  of  pilgrims  from  all  parts  of  the  world  unite. 


CHAPTER  XXXIY. 

JERUSALEM. 

Garden  of  Gethsemane  — Cave  of  Jeremiah  — Excavations — Their  Original 
Use — Dr.  Barclay — Tombs  of  the  Kings. 

Every  step  that  one  takes  in  and  about  Jerusalem, 
brings  to  his  mind  some  association  of  a religious 
character.  There  is  not  a valley  or  a rock,  either 
within  or  near  its  limits,  which  has  not  a name  in- 
scribed on  the  sacred  pages  of  history.  Indeed,  all 
that  one  sees,  seems  to  awaken  and  warm  his  enthusi- 
asm in  the  highest  degree.  But  the  most  interesting 


JERUSALEM. 


161 


and  soul-stirring  object  in  this  valley,  is  the  Garden 
of  Gethsemane.  Here  the  Saviour  prayed  and  wept — ■ 
here,  in  the  mysterious  hour  of  his  agony,  he  was  be- 
trayed into  wicked  hands,  to  be  crucified,  and  slain. 

At  a short  distance  from  the  tomb  of  the  holy  vir- 
gin, on  the  same  side  of  the  path  as  you  go  toward 
the  east,  is  a plot  of  ground  containing  several  an- 
cient olive-trees,  which  the  Catholics  enclosed  a long 
time  ago  with  a heavy  stone  wall ; and  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  same  path  is  a similar  enclosure,  in 
every  respect,  made  more  recently,  however,  by  the 
Greeks.  Each  of  these  enclosures  is  maintained  to 
be,  by  its  respective  possessor,  the  identical  garden 
of  Gethsemane  in  which  our  Saviour  wandered.  But, 
as  the  valley  is  only  four  hundred  feet  in  width  at 
this  point,  it  is  probable  that  all  the  grounds  north  of 
the  king’s  garden,  which  was  appropriated  exclusively 
to  the  use  of  the  royal  family,  were  laid  out  into 
walks  for  the  recreation  of  the  inhabitants  and  stran- 
gers visiting  Jerusalem,  and  c^led  Gethsemane : so 
that  in  reality  both  the  Catholic  and  Greek  enclosures 
formed  a part  of  that  garden.  Besides,  all  the  ac- 
counts agree  in  declaring  that  the  Son  of  God  was 
betrayed  somewhere  in  this  garden,  and  at  a point 
not  far  from  the  present  travelled  way  already  named, 
it  can,  however,  be  of  no  particular  moment,  at  this 
distant  day,  whether  the  precise  spot  has  been  discov- 
ered or  not. 

Before  taking  our  departure  from  this  sacred  val- 
ley, I would  remark  that  in  examining  the  mountains 
and  hills  on  both  sides  of  it,  as  well  as  all  the  hills 
within  the  vicinity  of  Jerusalem,  it  is,  1 think,  very 
clear  that  they  were,  at  an  early  day,  pierced  or  ex- 
cavated in  every  direction.  The  cave,  or  grotto,  of 
Jeremiah  is  one  ot'  those  excavations,  on  the  west  side 
of  the  city.  It  is  into  this  cave  that  the  prophet  was 
said  to  have  retired  after  the  Jews  had  been  removed 


162 


JERUSALEM. 


by  the  Assyrians  to  Babylon.  Near  the  Damascus 
gate,  Dr.  Barclay,  the  well-known  writer  and  travel- 
ler, discovered  a remarkable  cave,  extending  under 
the  greater  part  of  the  city  itself.  It  consists  of  a suc- 
cession of  vast  halls,  with  vaulted  roofs,  supported  by 
numerous  natural  pillars.  These  excavations  are, 
doubtless,  far  more  extensive  than  discoveries  have 
yet  shown.  Josephus  speaks  of  excavations  under  the 
city  in  his  day,  and  at  the  time  it  was  captured  and 
destroyed  by  the  Homans.  Whether  these  caverns 
were  intended  as  tombs  for  the  dead,  or  for  other 
purposes,  there  is  much  doubt.  Dr.  Barclay,  how- 
ever, entertains  the  opinion  that  they  were  opened  in 
quarrying  stones  for  the  building  of  the  temple,  as 
many  hewn  blocks  ready  to  be  removed  still  are 
found  in  them.  All  around  the  walls  of  the  city, 
wherever  there  is  a spot  of  ground  large  enough  for  a 
burying-place,  or  for  the  erection  of  a tomb,  it  is  thus 
appropriated. 

To  the  northwest,,  af  the  present  limits  of  the  city, 
are  situated  the  tombs  of  the  kings.  These  were  ex- 
pensive excavations,  or  structures,  finished  in  good 
taste,  and  richly  decorated  with  sculpture  in  bas- 
relief,  and  fine  paintings.  But  the  bodies  of  the  kings 
are  no  longer  found  entombed  in  them.  The  only 
tombs  that  have  not  been  disturbed,  and  in  all  human 
probability  never  will  be,  are  those  which  are  free 
from  ornaments,  the  inmates  of  which  were  interred 
without  pomp  or  ceremony. 


JERUSALEM. 


163 


CHAPTER  XXXV. 


JERUSALEM 


Antiquarians  Busy— Ascension  Day  on  the  Mount  of  Olives— The  Imprint  on 
the  Rock — Wax  tapers— View  from  the  Turkish  Minaret — John  the  Bap- 
tist— Plain  of  Rephaim— Mizpeh— Samuel— Gibeon— Bethany — Dr.  Cum- 
ming. 


The  antiquarians  of  to-day,  and  of  several  centuries 
past,  have  sought  for  and  removed  from  all  the  an- 
cient cities  in  the  world  such  bodies  as  were  embalmed 
or  deposited  in  costly  tombs,  not  even  excepting 
those  that  were  found  in  the  celebrated  Pyramids  of 
Egypt.  In  very  many  instances,  too,  not  only  the 
bodies,  but  the  sarcophagi  in  which  they  were  en- 
tombed, have  been  removed,  as  any  one  who  visits 
the  museums  in  the  principal  cities  of  Europe  and,  in 
a few  instances,  those  in  the  united  States,  where 
they  have  been  placed  on  exhibition,  cannot  fail  to 
perceive.  The  only  excuse  which,  it  seems  to  me, 
can  be  offered  for  thus  sacrilegiously  disturbing  the 
dead,  is  where  it  is  done  with  a view  of  ascertaining 
historical  facts.  As  regards  the  extent  to  which  this 
desecration  has  been  carried,  I would  remark  that  I 
have  everywhere  seen,  on  my  journey  through  the 
East,  many  a stone  sarcophagus,  from  which  the  body 
of  the  dead  has  been  removed,  lying  broken  by  the 
wayside,  or  used  as  a fountain,  and  tilled  with  water, 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  thirsty  traveller,  from 
private  or  public  reservoirs. 

Of  all  the  places  in  the  environs  of  Jerusalem,  de- 
serving of  consideration,  the  Mount  of  Olives  stands 
preeminent.  I visited  this  venerated  spot  on  several 
occasions,  sometimes  on  foot  and  at  other  times  on 


164 


JERUSALEM. 


horseback.  It  is  only  about  three  thousand  feet  dis- 
tant from  St.  Stephen’s  Gate.  On  Ascension  l)a}r, 
which  occurred  during  my  stay  in  Jerusalem,  I at- 
tended the  religious  meetings  of  the  Greeks,  Arme- 
nians, and  Catholics,  on  the  Mount  of  Olives.  Sev- 
eral thousand  communicants  partook  of  the  sacrament 
on  that  solemn  occasion. 

The  rock  that  bears  the  imprint  of  the  foot  of  our 
Saviour,  made  (it  is  said)  at  the  time  of  His  ascen- 
sion, is  enclosed  within  a neat  chapel  erected  around 
it  for  the  express  purpose  of  preserving  it  from  in- 
jury. On  the  occasion  above  referred  to,  I observed 
that  many  of  the  pious  members  of  the  church 
brought  wax  tapers  with  them,  which  they  gave  to 
the  priest  at  this  ceremony,  who  kept  a large  number 
of  them  constantly  lighted  and  placed  within  a few 
inches  of  the  holy  footprint,  in  order  to  enable  all 
present,  who  desired  it,  to  see  and  examine  the  same 
with  the  care  and  attention  it  so  deservedly  merits. 

I ascended  to  the  top  of  the  Turkish  minaret,  which 
is  at  no  great  distance  from  this  chapel,  from  the  gal- 
lery of  which  I obtained  a commanding  prospect  of 
the  mountains  of  Ephraim  on  the  north,  and  the  hilly 
country  of  Judea,  commencing  at  and  stretching 
south  of  Bethlehem,  which  town  also  is  in  sight.  The 
mountains  of  Moab  and  Pisgah  lie  at  the  east  and  be- 
yond the  Jordan.  The  sight  of  the  towering  heights 
of  Pisgah  carries  one’s  mind  back  to  the  time  that 
the  great  lawgiver  of  Israel  viewed  therefrom  this 
goodly  land.  The  atmosphere  is  so  perfectly  clear 
and  transparent  in  this  climate  that  the  mountains  do 
not  seem  to  be  over  sixbfiiles  distant. 

The  hilly  region,  which  extends  from  Jerusalem 
east  to  the  Jordan — a distance  of  twenty -live  miles, 
and  which  is  assumed  to  have  been  the  wilderness 
wherein  John  the  Baptist,  forerunner  of  our  Lord, 
began  his  ministry,  aud  where  our  Lord  Himself,  af- 


JERUSALEM. 


165 


ter  His  baptism,  retired  for  forty  days  and  nights 
in  fasting  and  praying — consists  of  ranges  of  moun- 
tains following  each  other  like  the  waves  of  the 
troubled  ocean,  and  descending  rapidly  at  least  three 
thousand  feet,  until  they  reach  the  Dead  Sea,  where 
they  form  an  irregular  breastwork  upward  of  one 
thousand  feet  in  height,  along  its  shores,  of  perpendic- 
ular cliffs  and  ragged  points  ; in  places  receding  from 
the  water,  and  then  again  jutting  out  into  the  sea. 
The  view  of  this  great  expanse  of  water,  the  lofty 
mountains  piled  on  each  other  in  various  positions, 
presenting  everywhere  yellow  rocks  and  gray  sand,  to 
be  seen,  with  the  Jordan  and  the  plains  of  Jericho  in 
the  distance — combine  to  render  the  scene  one  of 
vast  and  absorbing  interest. 

There  are  many  other  objects  which  lie  in  full  view 
of,  and  at  no  great  distance  from  the  Mount  of  Olives, 
deserving  of  consideration.  Among  which  is  the 
Pephaim,  commencing  south  of  the  valley  of  Hinnom 
and  extending  in  a south-westerty  direction  live  or 
six  miles  from  Jerusalem.  It  was  on  this  plain  that 
the  army  of  the  Philistines,  after  having  advanced  to 
the  very  gates  of  the  city,  were  thrice  signally  de- 
feated and  finally  overthrown  by  David,  as  described 
in  2 Samuel,  chapter  v. 

Mizpeh,  the  celebrated  gathering  place  of  the  Jews, 
lies  in  full  view  toward  the  north-west,  and  within  four 
miles  of  the  city.  The  ancient  site  of  this  town  is  on 
an  eminence  live  hundred  feet  above  the  adjoining 
plain,  and  from  which  there  is  a commanding  pros- 
pect extending  from  sea  to  sea. 

It  was  there  that  Samuel  was  crowned  judge  and 
seer  of  Israel,  and  there  he  offered  up  sacrifices  and 
judged  the  people.  There  Saul  was  chosen  king  by 
lot;  and  there,  at  this  day,  stands  a monument, 
claimed  by  some  to  have  been  erected  to  the  memory 
of  the  great  judge  Samuel,  and  which  is  distinctly 


166 


JERUSALEM. 


seen  from  all  the  principal  approaches  to  Jerusalem. 
Other  persons,  however,  maintain  that  his  remains 
were  entombed  in  another  place. 

The  sites  of  the  ancient  cities  of  Beeroth  and  Gib- 
eon,  and  the  celebrated  valley  of  Ajalon,  which  sep- 
arates them,  lie  within  view  of  the  mount,  and  distant 
about  five  miles  from  Jerusalem.  Gibeon  was  at  an 
early  day  one  of  the  royal  cities.  The  stratagem  of 
the  Gibeonites  practised  on  Joshua,  his  defence  of 
them  afterward  against  the  live  confederate  kings  of 
the  south,  and  the  great  battle  in  the  valley  of  Ajalon, 
when  the  sun  stood  still  on  Gibeon,  are  events  which 
will  ever  render  this  land  memorable. 

The  town  of  Bethany,  which  is  now  in  a state  of 
desolation,  was  spread  before  me.  It  occupies  the 
eastern  declivity  of  the  Mount  of  Olives,  not  a quar- 
ter of  a mile  from  its  summit.  It  is  claimed  by  some 
that  our  Saviour  ascended  into  heaven  from  this 
(Bethany)  mount,  and  by  others  that  it  was  from  the 
Mount  of  Olives.  My  opinion  is  that  the  occurrence 
may  have  taken  place  here,  and  that,  too,  without  its 
conflicting  with  the  other  claim,  as  the  town  of  Beth- 
any, doubtless,  at  that  period,  extended  to  the  very 
top  of  the  Mount  of  Olives. 

The  view  of  Jerusalem  from  this  point  is  unequalled  : 
its  streets,  lanes,  walls,  gates,  and  battlements,  are  all 
distinctly  seen.  While  gazing  upon  the  scene  before 
me,  taking,  as  it  were,  my  last  look  at  Jerusalem  and 
the  valley  of  JehosophatJ1  or,  as  it  is  also  called,  “ The 
valley  of  the  judgment  of  the  Lord,”  the  prediction 
lately  made  by  Dr.  Gumming,  of  which  you  have 
doubtless  read,  respecting  these  holy  places,  predica- 
ted upon  the  words  of  the  angel,  who,  when  our  Lord 
ascended  into  heaven,  proclaimed,  “ That  this  same 
Jesus  which  is  taken  up  into  heaven  shall  so  come  in 
like  manner  as  ye  have  seen  Him  go  into  heaven 
and  as  His  ascension  was  from  this  mount,  so  it  is  be- 


JERUSALEM. 


10)7 

lieved  He  will  on  this  spot  return — this  prediction,  I 
say,  brought  to  my  mind  a like  one  made  at  the  close 
of  the  ninth  century,  announcing  the  end  of  the  world 
and  the  approaching  advent  of  Jesus  into  Palestine; 
in  consequence  of  which  thousands  of  Christians,  from 
every  section,  arrived  at  this  place,  with  a view  of 
dying  here,  or  awaiting  the  coming  of  the  Sovereign 
Judge. 

Near  nine  hundred  years  have  passed  away  since 
that  day  was  looked  for  with  so  much  confidence  by 
the  numerous  pilgrims  that  here  assembled,  and  now 
we  have  a similar  prediction.  “But  the  end  shall 
not  be  yet,”  for  it  is  written,  as  Jesus  sat  upon  this 
very  mount,  over  against  the  temple,  Peter,  and  James, 
and  John,  and  Andrew  asked  him  privately,  “Tell 
us,  when  shall  these  things  be?”  To  which  he,  an- 
swering, said,  “ But  of  that  day  and  that  hour  know- 
etli  no  man  ; no,  not  the  angels  which  are  in  heaven, 
neither  the  Son,  but  the  Father.”  Notwithstanding 
this  most  sacred  assertion,  Dr.  Cumming  has  predict- 
ed that  that  day  is  now  certainly  at  hand.  And  this 
mount,  should  it  happen,  may  become  the  theatre  of 
stupendous  events — the  glories  and  terrors  of  the  se- 
cond advent,  which  the  doctor  says  may  occur  at  any 
time  between  the  commencement  of  the  year  1860 
and  the  close  of  the  year  1868  ; and  if  not  before,  it 
will  certainly  happen  at  the  latter  period,  unless,, 
he  says,  he  is  deceived  in  his  calculations. 


163 


BETHLEHEM. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 

BETHLEHEM. 


The  Joppa  Gate— Route  to  Bethlehem— Plain — The  State  of  the  Country—* 
Large  Grapes — Mellons  and  Beans  - Fertility  of  the  Soil-  The  Hill  Coun- 
try-Climate Wise  Men  of  the  East — The  Shepherd — Ruth  Gleaning— 
Sepulchre  of  Rachel — Birthplace  of  Holy  Men — Streets  of  the  City- 
Church  of  < onstantine’s  time — Empress  Helena — Place  of  the  Nativity— 
Jerome — Monastery — Kindness  of  the  Monks. 


On  our  journey  from  Jerusalem  to  Bethlehem  we 
passed  out  of  the  Joppa  gate,  around  the  north  and 
west  sides  of  the  Gilion  valley,  and  over  the  broad 
plain  of  Rephaim,  lying  just  outside  the  walls  of  the 
city.  This  plain  extends  at  least  ten  miles  in  a south- 
westerly direction  from  Jerusalem  to  a narrow  deiile 
in  the  mountain,  through  which  the  road  leads  the 
traveller  to  the  ancient  Philistia.  The  route  going  to 
Bethlehem  parts  from  the  last-named  road  at  no  great 
distance  from  the  Gihon  valley,  and  runs  in  a south- 
westerly direction,  encountering  in  its  course  a terri- 
fic ravine,  within  two  miles  of  Bethlehem,  of  at  least 
live  hundred  feet  in  depth,  the  descent  and  ascent  of 
which  is  attended  with  much  difficulty.  With  this 
exception  the  road  between  the  two  cities  is  perfectly 
level. 

The  Franks  and  citizens  of  leisure  of  Jerusalem 
often  ride  on  horseback  upon  this  plain  for  exercise 
and  pleasure.  It  might  be  converted  into  a most 
agreeable  place  of  resort  for  riding  and  driving,  if 
gravelled  highways  and  paths  were  made  for  the  use 
of  the  public;  but  the  government  pays  no  attention 
whatever  to  improvements  of  this  character,  for  the 
reason,  perhaps,  that  there  are  no  carriages  in  the 
country.  There  is  no  available  accommodation  for 


BETHLEHEM. 


169 


tourists  but  a beaten  path  made  by  the  caravan  and 
by  pedestrians,  and  travellers  on  horseback  on  their 
way  to  Bethlehem  and  Hebron. 

The  country  between  the  two  cities  is  under  a much 
better  state  of  cultivation  than  I have  as  yet  met  else- 
where in  Palestine.  Several  large  private  mansions 
and  public  edifices  have  been  erected  on  the  route 
by  the  Greeks  within  the  last  few  years,  and  also  a 
number  of  industrial  settlements,  which  have  been 
established  in  the  country  west  of  Bethlehem.  These 
settlements,  as  we  learned  from  their  published  re- 
ports, raise  two  crops  a year.  Their  grapes  almost 
rival  the  clusters  of  Escliol,  a single  vine  having  been 
known  to  produce  one  hundred  bunches,  each  three 
feet  long,  and  each  grape  three  and  a half  inches  in 
circumference.  Their  Indian  corn  grows  to  the  height 
of  eleven  feet,  water  mellons  attain  an  enormous 
size,  weighing  from  twenty  to  forty  pounds,  beans 
flourish  almost  as  luxuriantly  as  the  one  celebrat- 
ed in  the  fairy  tales,  bearing  pods  thirteen  inches  long 
and  growing  six  on  a stem.  The  quince-trees  yield 
four  hundred  quinces  each,  and  from  a single  citron- 
tree  tive  hundred  pounds  of  fruit  are  obtained.  That 
these  assertions  are  correct  there  can  be  no  question, 
and  it  is  manifest  even  to  the  most  casual  observer 
that  the  soil  of  Palestine  is,  at  this  day,  quite  as  fer- 
tile, under  proper  cultivation, 'as  it  was  of  old. 

The  hill  sides  of  the  valley  on  the  north  of  Bethle- 
hem are  terraced  wiih  great  labor  and  care,  and 
covered  with  thrifty  fruit  trees,  presenting,  no  doubt, 
the  same  picturesque  scenery  of  the  hill  country  of 
Judea,  as  they  did  in  the  prosperous  days  of  the 
Jewish  State,  and  I think  it  is  destined,  at  no  distant 
day,  to  become  equally  productive,  under  the  foster- 
ing care  of  the  present  industrious  and  energetic  popu- 
lation, for  there  has  been  no  change  in  its  climate  or 
variation  in  its  seasons.  There  are  but  two  sea'sons 

8 


170 


BETHLEHEM. 


here,  the  rainy  and  the  dry.  The  former  begins  in 
October,  with  occasional  showers  and  intervals  of 
sunshine.  The  cold  attains  its  greatest  severity  dur- 
ing December  and  January.  Snow  often  falls  in  the 
winter  months ; but  the  ground  is  not  frozen.  In 
February  and  March  the  weather  is  usually  very  fair, 
but  rain  continues  to  fall  through  the  latter  month. 
The  first  rains  in  October,  and  the  last  in  March,  on 
which  the  productiveness  of  the  year  in  a great 
measure  depends,  were  anciently  known  and  spoken 
of  in  the  Bible  as  the  former  and  the  latter  rains,  as 
may  be  seen  by  referring  to  Deut.  chap.  14,  Jere- 
miah chap.  3,  ver.  3,  ch.  5,  ver.  24,  James  chapter  5 
verse  7. 

When  within  three  miles  of  Bethlehem  we  passed 
the  fountain  or  well  where  the  wise  men  of  the  East, 
after  having  been  dismissed  by  Herod,  were  reclining 
when  they  again  saw  the  star,  and  “ rejoiced  with  ex- 
ceeding great  joy.”  The  fountain,  as  we  passed  by 
it,  was  surrounded  by  numerous  herds  of  cattle  and 
sheep  waiting  their  turn  to  be  watered. 

Continuing  on  our  journey,  our  dragoman  pointed 
out  to  us,  wiien  within  a mile  and  a half  of  Bethle- 
hem, the  fields  lying  in  the  valley  which  winds  its 
way  towards  the  Jordan,  where  Ruth  followed  the 
reapers  of  her  uncle  Boaz,  and  where  the  shepherds 
were  attending  in  the  fields  keeping  watch  over  their 
flocks  by  night,  when  the  angel  of  the  Lord  brought 
“good  tidings  of  great  joy,  which  shall  be  to  all  peo- 
ple.” The  valley,  the  scene  of  this  ever-memorable 
event,  as  viewed  from  the  road  leading  to  the  city,  is 
unrivalled  in  beauty,  and,  on  account  of  the  many 
sacred  historical  associations  connected  with  it,  pos- 
sesses an  enduring  and  abiding  interest. 

Our  dragoman  next  directed  our  attention  to  a 
small  white  structure  standing  on  the  west  side  of  the 
road : “ That,”  said  he,  “ is  the  sepulchre  of  Rachel, 


BETHLEHEM. 


171 


and  is  one  of  the  few  tombs  in  Palestine  that  the 
Mussulmen,  Jews  and  Christians  agree,  in  regarding 
its  identity,  and  also  in  honoring  and  preserving.  In 
the  thirty-fifth  chapter  of  Genesis,  from  the  sixteenth 
to  the  twentieth  verse  inclusive,  is  written  the  touch- 
ing account  of  the  death  and  burial  of  Rachel.  “ And 
they  journeyed  from  Bethel;  and  there  was  but  a 
little  way  to  come  to  Ephrath,  and  Rachel  died  and 
was  buried  in  the  way  to  Ephrath,  which  is  Bethle- 
hem, and  Jacob  sat  a pillar  upon  her  grave,  that  is 
the  . pillar  of  Rachel’s  grave  to  this  day.” 

Every  inch  of  ground  between  Jerusalem  and  Beth- 
lehem is  filled  with  thrilling  mementos  relative  to  the 
annals  of  the  ancient  Hebrews. 

Bethlehem  is  memorable  as  being  the  scene  of  the 
books  of  Ruth,  and  as  the  birthplace  of  Boaz,  Obed, 
Jesse,  Jacob,  Abishai  and  Asliel,  also  of  David  the 
Psalmist,  who  was  crowned  king  of  Jerusalem,  and 
above  all  as  the  scene  of  the  nativity  of  our  Lord  and 
Saviour, 

This  renowned  and  venerable  city  is  only  six  miles 
from  Jerusalem,  and  is  built  on  an  oblong  ridge  rising 
2,538  feet  above  the  Mediterranean  sea,  and  sixty 
feet  higher  than  Jerusalem.  It  was  fortified  by  Re- 
hoboam,  as  we  read  in  Cliron.  9 chap.  6 verse.  The 
houses  are  roughly  built  of  limestone,  of  which  the 
whole  region  is  composed,  and  the  streets  are  narrow. 
Many  of  the  dwellings  were  undergoing  repairs  while 
we  were  there,  which  fact  lead  us  to  infer  that  its 
inhabitants  were  determined  to  improve  its  condition, 
and  restore  it  to  something  of  its  former  glory.  It 
contains  at  the  present  time,  a population  of  between 
three  and  four  thousand  inhabitants. 

The  celebrated  church,  which  was  built  by  Con- 
stantine, at  the  instance  of  the  Empress  Helena,  and, 
as  it  is  asserted,  was  afterwards  either  rebuilt  or  re- 
paired  by  Justinian  in  a more  sumptuous  manner,  is 


172 


BETHLEHEM. 


situated  within  the  walls  of  a monastery  belonging 
to  the  Armenians.  The  prospect  from  the  cloister 
embraces  a view  of  the  Jordan  and  the  Dead  Sea. 
There  is  no  church  in  Palestine  equal  to  this  in  beauty 
of  decoration.  The  engraved  views  of  its  exterior 
and  interior,  which  are  so  often  met  with,  are  very 
correct.  A flight  of  fifteen  steps  convey  the  pilgrims 
to  the  cave  in  the  rock  in  which  our  Lord  was  born. 
This  cave  is  thirty-nine  feet  long,  eleven  wide,  and 
nine  high.  The  walls  and  floor  are  covered  with 
marble,  thirty-two  lamps  are  kept  constantly  burn- 
ing, and  a slab  of  white  marble  bearing  a silver  glory 
and  the  inscription,  “ITic  de  Yirgini  Maria  Jesus 
Christas,”  marks  the  most  sacred  spot  in  the  sacred 
cavern.  A manger  of  white  marble,  an  altar,  several 
paintings  of  the  Italian  and  Spanish  schools,  repre- 
senting the  mysteries  of  the  place,  the  virgin  and 
child,  after  Raphael,  the  Annunciation,  the  Adora- 
tion of  the  wise  men,  the  coming  of  the  Shepherds, 
with  others  equally  noticeable,  adorn  and  form  part 
of  its  interior.  Incense  is  continually  burning  before 
the  cradle  of  our  Saviour. 

u No  place  in  the  whole  world,”  says  father  Nere, 
“ exacts  more  profound  devotion.” 

At  a short  distance  from  the  cave  of  Nativity  is 
the  spot  where  Jerome  passed  so  many  years  of  study 
and  devotion.  It  was  here  that  this  learned  divine 
translated  the  Scriptures  into  the  Greek  and  Latin 
languages. 

We  were  received,  on  our  arrival  at  the  monastery, 
by  the  priests  in  attendance,  in  the  most  gracious 
manner.  This  marked  attention  to  us  was  owiug  in 
a good  measure,  to  our  friends  resident  in  Jerusalem, 
who  kindly  accompanied  us  to  Bethlehem. 

We  were  conducted  tn  the  Urst  place  into  the 
grand  recaption  room,  where  we  remained  until  we 
had  recovered  from  the  fatigue  of  our  journey.  In 


FROM  JERUSALEM  TO  SECHEM. 


173 


the  meantime  refreshments  of  various  kinds  were 
passed  around.  Indeed  every  courtesy  was  profferred 
us  that  would  assist  in  rendering  our  visit  agreeable. 
Many  inquiries  were  made  by  the  priests  respecting 
the  state  and  condition  of  the  Latin  Church  in  the 
United  States,  which  we  answered  to  the  best  of  our 
ability.  We  were  afterwards  conducted  through  the 
monastery  and  church,  and  had  pointed  out  to  us 
every  thing  of  interest  m that  sacred  place,  and,  also, 
many  objects  of  regard  in  the  city  and  environs.  I 
shall  long  remember,  with  deep  gratitude,  the  atten- 
tions bestowed  on  us  while  sojourning  at  Bethlehem. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 

FROM  JERUSALEM  TO  SECHEM. 

Sechem-  In  Camp — Gate  of  Damascus-  Last  of  Jerusalem— Titus — Milman's 
Description—The  Country — Ai— Tomb  of  Bethel  Bethel  in  Abraham’s 
Time-  State  of  the  Country — Camping  Ground— Travellers  and  Travel- 
ling. 

When  we  arrived  in  the  ancient  city  of  Sechem, 
our  tent  was  pitched  on  the  west  side  of  the  town, 
within  the  chain  of  sentinels  of  a large  body  of  Otto- 
man troops  en  route  to  Dajnascus.  At  nine  o’clock 
p.  m.,  precisely,  their  band  played  the  tattoo,  which, 
as  with  us,  is  a signal  for  the  soldiers  to  extinguish 
their  lights  and  retire  for  the  night ; and,  as  we  were 
much  fatigued  by  our  day’s  journey,  we  cheerfully 
submitted  to  the  regulations  of  the  camp,  and  were 
soon  asleep.  The  morning  found  us  much  refreshed 
by  our  night’s  repose,  and  prepared  to  seek  for  and 
study  the  antiquities  of  the  neighborhood. 

This  place  is  about  thirty-five  miles  north  of  Jeru- 
salem, and  nearly  the  same  distance  south  of  Haza- 


174 


FROM  JERUSALEM  TO  SECHEM. 


reth.  It  lies  equidistant  between  the  Mediterranean 
Sea  and  the  river  Jordan,  and  consequently  forms  an 
important  landmark  in  the  geography  of  Palestine. 
We  were  two  days  journeying  from  Jerusalem  to  this 
spot.  The  bridle  paths  over  the  mountain  ridges  are 
so  difficult  and  dangerous  to  pursue,  that  our  horses 
could  not  go  off  a walk,  and  we  rarely  made  more 
than  three  miles’  travel  in  an  hour. 

We  left  Jerusalem  by  the  gate  of  Damascus,  and 
passed  over  that  part  of  the  site  of  the  old  town 
which  lies  north  of  the  walls.  It  was  some  time  be- 
fore we  lost  sight  of  the  holy  city;  and  I availed  my- 
self of  every  elevation  over  which  our  road  lay,  to 
stop  and  let  my  eyes  rest  again  upon  the  city  so  dear 
to  the  hearts  of  Christians.  This  I continued  to  do 
until  we  had  passed  the  Hill  of  Scopus,  or  the  Watch- 
Tower,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  beyond  which  spot 
it  is  no  longer  visible.  One  is  never  satisfied  in 
gazing  on  it  while  approaching  its  walls  for  the  first 
time  ; nor  when  departing  from  it,  as  I did  on  this 
occasion,  with  the  conviction  that  it  was  to  be 
forever. 

Titus,  the  conqueror  of  Jerusalem,  as  we  are  in- 
formed by  the  historians  of  that  day,  beheld,  from 
this  hill  or  watch-tower,  with  mingled  awe  and  won- 
der, its  massive  walls,  its  mighty  towers  and  bul- 
warks, and  its  temples  resplendent  with  an  almost 
supernatural  glory.  In  Milman’s  “Fall  of  Jerusa- 
lem,” the  following  beautiful  passage  occurs,  descrip- 
tive of  the  admiration  and  astonishment  of  the  Ro- 
mans, when  they  first  gazed  upon  it  from  the  same 
elevation : 

“ How  boldly  doth  it  front  us  ; how  majestically  I 
Like  a luxurious  vineyard,  the  hill  side 
Is  hung  with  marble  fabrics,  line  o’er  line, 

Terrace  o’er  terrace  nearer  still,  and  nearer. 

To  the  blue  heavens.  Here  bright  and  sumptuous  palaces, 

With  cool  and  verdant  gardens  interspersed  ; 

Here  towers  of  war  that  frown  in  massy  strength  : 

While  over  all  hangs  the  rich  purple  eve, 


FROM  JERUSALEM  TO  SECHEM. 


175 


As  conscious  of  its  being  her  last  farewell 
Of  light  and  glory  to  that  fated  city. 

And  as  our  clouds  of  battle,  dust  and  smoke, 

Are  melted  into  air,  behold  the  Temple, 

In  undisturbed  and  lone  serenity, 

Finding  itself  a solemn  sanctuary 

In  the  profound  heaven  ! It  stands  before  us, 

A mount  of  snow  fretted  with  golden  pinnacles  ! 
The  very  sun,  as  though  he  worshipped  there, 
Lingers  upon  the  gilded  cedar  roofs  ; 

And  down  the  long  and  branching  porticos, 

On  every  flowery -sculptured  capital, 

Glitters  the  homage  of  his  parting  beams. 

By  Hercules  ! the  sight  might  almost  win 
The  offended  majesty  of  Rome  to  mercy.” 


The  country,  as  we  journeyed  over  the  mountains 
of  Ephraim,  soon  assumed  the  same  rough  character 
that  marked  the  route  from  Joppa  to  Jerusalem. 
The  slopes  of  the  hills  were  formerly  laid  out  in  ter- 
races from  base  to  summit ; now  the  stones  with 
which  these  terraced  walls  were  built,  lie  scattered 
around  in  every  direction.  The  farmers  have,  how- 
ever, gathered  some  of  them  together  in  heaps ; and, 
in  a few  places,  where  the  mountains  are  steep,  have 
rebuilt  or  repaired  the  terraces,  and  drawn  the  earth 
upon  them  again,  in  order  to  render  the  land  suscep- 
tible of  cultivation.  Every  spot  thus  improved,  if  no 
larger  than  a man’s  hand,  is  put  to  some  use.  Fig 
and  olive  trees  are  cultivated  extensively,  and  the 
former  seems  to  thrive  on  the  mountain  side  quite  as 
well,  if  not  better,  than  in  the  valley. 

On  our  route  we  passed  the  celebrated  city  of  Ai — 
the  second  town  captured  by  Joshua  on  this  side  of 
Jordan,  and  the  first  he  laid  siege  to  in  the  mountain 
region  of  Judea.  The  capture  of  this  town  gave  him 
a foothold  in  this  region. 

We  also  passed  the  ancient  town  of  Bethel,  lying 
three  miles  north-west  of  Ai,  and  not  more  than  fif- 
teen miles  north  of  Jerusalem.  Nothing  remains  of 
those  ancient  towns  but  the  ruins  of  their  walls  and 
foundations.  The  present  inhabitants  have  erected 


176 


FROM  JERUSALEM  TO  SECHEM. 


their  frail  huts,  in  the  midst  of  these  remains,  with 
the  fallen  stones  of  the  old  cities. 

Bethel  was  situated  on  an  eminence,  and  covered 
the  entire  surface  of  the  ridge.  All  that  now  remains 
of  it  are  the  ruins  of  an  immense  cistern,  three  hun- 
dred and  fourteen  by  two  hundred  and  seventeen 
feet  wide,  and  a portion  of  a square  tower.  From  the  top 
of  this  tower  a distinct  view  is  had  of  the  dome  of  the 
Mosque  of  Omar  at  Jerusalem. 

It  was  at  Bethel  wThere  Abraham,  on  his  return 
from  Egypt,  parted,  on  friendly  terms,  with  Lot.  The 
latter  journeyed  to  the  plains  of  Jordan,  while  Abra- 
ham dwelt  in  the  land  of  Canaan.  It  was  here  that 
Jacob  had  his  memorable  dream,  when  he  said,  “ Tins 
is  no  other  but  the  house  of  God,  and  this  is  the  gate 
of  heaven.”  At  the  time  wTe  visited  it,  its  inhabit- 
ants wrere  engaged  in  the  midst  of  their  harvest ; some 
were  reaping  the  grain,  while  others  were  threshing 
it  out.  This  process  is  the  same  now  as  it  was  thou- 
sands of  years  ago.  Their  threshing-floors  are  usually 
a flat  rock  or  ground  prepared  expressly  for  the  pur- 
pose, and  the  grain  is  threshed  with  oxen,  cowTs,  or 
horses  tied  together  and  driven  around  the  floor,  in 
some  instances  drawing  a rude  sled,  made  rough  on 
the  bottom,  with  the  driver  seated  upon  it.  The  grain 
is  freed  from  the  dust  and  chaff  by  laborers,  who  with 
shovels  cast  it  into  the  air  when  the  wind  is  blowing 
fresh,  which  carries  away  the  light  chaff  while  the 
full  grain  falls  on  the  threshing-floor.  All  this  work 
is  necessarily  performed  out  of  doors,  as  they  have  no 
barns  or  stables  in  the  country,  and,  as  no  rains  or 
storms  occur  during  the  summer  months,  there  is  no 
apprehension  felt  that  the  grain  will  be  damaged  by 
exposure  to  the  weather.  The  wind  was  favorable  for 
thrediing  the  day  we  were  there,  and  we  could  see, 
from  our  elevated  position,  the  chaff  flying  in  every 
direction  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  reminding  us, 


FROM  JERUSALEM  TO  SECHEM. 


177 


by  its  appearance,  of  the  flurries  of  snow  which  we 
were  not  unaccustomed  to  behold  in  the  winter  sea- 
son from  our  home  near  the  Highlands  of  the  Hud- 
son. Everywhere  about  us  the  farmers  were  indus- 
triously engaged  in  the  labors  of  the  season.  Ho  me- 
chanical contrivances  like  the  reaper,  the  threshing- 
machine,  or  the  fanning-mill,  have  as  yet  been  intro- 
duced into  this  country  ; and,  as  the  people  are  great- 
ly attached  to  their  ancient  habits  and  customs,  there 
is  little  probability  that  these  or  similar  labor-saving 
articles  will  be  employed  here  for  centuries  to  come. 
The  reaper  could  be  used  to  advantage  in  the  numer- 
ous and  extensive  valleys  and  plains. 

On  our  journey  we  passed  through  the  beautiful 
valleys  of  St.  John  and  Labona,  or  Leban.  These 
valleys  were  covered  with  fields  of  wheat,  ripe  for  the 
harvest,  and,  judging  from  what  we  could  see,  they 
promised  to  yield  an  abundant  and  excellent  crop  to 
repay  the  husbandmen  for  their  labors. 

We  halted,  for  our  lunch,  under  the  shadow  of  a 
fine  old  olive-tree,  in  the  latter  valley,  which  marks 
the  boundary  line  between  Samaria  and  J udea.  Be- 
neath the  wide-spreading  branches  of  this  noble  tree, 
protected  from  the  heat  of  the  mid-day  sun,  our  drag- 
oman had  spread  his  matting,  carpeting,  and  cush- 
ions, thus  enabling  us  to  rest  in  comfort  and  at  our 
ease.  Our  tent  had  been  sent  forward  in  the  morn- 
ing to  the  spot  selected  for  the  nights  camping-ground, 
so  that  we  could  not,  even  had  we  desired  it,  have 
obtained  better  accommodations,  since  there  are  no 
public-houses  on  the  route,  nor  are  the  private  dwell- 
ings spread  over  the  face  of  the  country  as  in  our  own 
fair  land,  but  are  confined  to  rural  towns  built  upon 
the  summits  of  the  mountains,  and,  hence,  oftentimes 
most  difficult  of  access  ; besides,  the  dwellings  are  not 
such  as  could  afford  a traveller  any  comforts,  for  they 
raiely  contain  more  than  one  room,  and  that  poorly 

8* 


178 


FROM  JERUSALEM  TO  SECIIEM. 


furnished  and  indifferently  protected  from  the  scorch- 
ing sun  of  summer-time  and  the  heavy  rains  of  the 
winter  season. 

The  travellers  in  Palestine  must,  for  these  and  sim- 
ilar reasons,  dwell  in  tents,  as  did  the  patriarchs  of 
old,  and  must  select  pleasant  weather  for  their  jour- 
ney ings,  since  it  is  not  an  x agreeable  task  to  travel 
during  the  day  in  the  drenching  rain  ; or,  when  night 
comes,  to  pitch  your  tent  and  spread  your  bed  in  the 
yielding  mud.  The  rainy  season,  which  commences 
in  October  and  ends  in  March,  and  the  burning  and 
unclouded  summer  sun,  should  alike  be  avoided.  Dur- 
ing the  summer  months  the  landscape  assumes  an  as- 
pect ot'  barrenness,  the  result  of  drought,  cheerless  to 
look  upon.  The  Scriptures  express  it  perfectly  and 
forcibly  when  they  say  “ the  heavens  become  brass 
and  the  earth  iron.”  The  spring  and  a part  of  the 
autumn  alone  remain  in  which  the  traveller  may  pur- 
sue with  pleasure  his  jouneyings  in  the  holy  land. 
The  balminess  of  the  air  at  these  seasons  is  unsur- 
passed, and  seldom  does  anything  arise  to  mar  the 
enjoyment  of  the  tourist.  We  have  not  been  de- 
tained a single  moment  on  account  of  unpleasant 
weather.  The  thermometer  seldom  rises  over  sixty- 
live  degrees,  except  during  the  mid-day,  in  these 
mountain  regions,  and  then  never  higher  than  seven- 
ty-live or  eighty  degrees.  The  sirocco  winds,  so  de- 
structive to  the  constitutions  of  the  unacclimated, 
cease  about  the  twentieth  of  May,  from  which  time  to 
the  beginning  of  July,  the  prevailing  wind  is  from 
the  north,  and  commences,  usually,  every  afternoon 
at  about  three  o’clock;  thereby  rendering  the  air  re- 
freshing and  agreeable,  and  adding  to  the  comfort  of 
travellers.  It  was  at  this  hour,  after  resting  and  re- 
freshing ourselves  under  the  olive-tree,  we  left  the 
valley  of  Leban  and  descended  into  the  plain  of  Mo- 
reh. 


PLAIN  OF  MOREH. 


179 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 

PLAIN  OF  MOREH. 


Plain  of  Moreh — Jacob’s  Well— Joseph’s  Tomb — Nabelus — Ebal  and  Gerizim 
— Antiquity  of  Shechem — Dinah — Samaritan  Priests — Elliot’s  Opinion — 
Sacred  Localities — Valley  of  Shechem — Its  Inhabitants. 

The  plain  of  Moreh  is  about  twelve  miles  in  length 
from  north  to  south,  and  four  miles  in  width.  It  is 
bounded  on  the  west  by  a ridge  of  mountains  five  or 
six  hundred  feet  high,  and  on  the  east  by  an  irregular 
line  of  hills.  Hear  the  centre  of  the  Western  range 
is  the  opening  or  valley  of  Shechem,  which  varies 
from  one-quarter  to  half  a mile  in  width,  running 
from  east  to  west.  It  was  facing  this  valley,  and 
within  a short  distance  of  it,  on  the  plains  of  Moreh, 
that  Jacob,  when  he  came  from  Padan-aram,  pitched 
his  tent,  and  there,  as  it  is  written,  “ He  bought  a 
parcel  of  a field,  where  he  had  spread  his  tent,  at  the 
hand  of  the  children  of  Hamor,  Shechem’s  father,  for 
an  hundred  pieces  of  money.”  (Gen.  xxxiii.,  19.). 

The  lands  thus  purchased  lie  on  both  sides  of  a 
living  stream  of  water,  and  no  doubt  afforded  him  an 
abundant  support,  both  in  pasture  and  water,  for  his 
numerous  herds  of  cattle.  The  mildness  of  the*cli- 
rnate  at  all  seasons  allowed  of  the  cattle  running  at 
large  during  the  entire  year.  The  pasturing  is  much 
better  during  the  rainy  or  winter  months  than  in  the 
midst  of  summer  ; for  then  the  soil  is  dry  and  the 
herbage  parohed  with  the  scorching  heats,  except 
where  the  ground  is  irrigated  by  a supply  of  water, 
as  is  the  case  on  this  great  plain. 

Jacob’s  well,  of  which  so  much  has  been  spoken, 
and  written,  is  situated  on  the  south  side  of  this 


130 


PLAIN  OF  MOREH. 


stream.  Over  it  formerly  stood  a large  church,  built 
in  the  form  of  a cross,  erected  by  that  great  and  de- 
vout patroness  of  the  Holy  Land,  the  Empress  Helena. 
But  the  ravages  of  time,  aided  by  the  sacrilegious 
hand  of  the  Moslem,  have  left  of  it  only  a tew  broken 
columns  and  a portion  of  the  foundation  walls.  The 
well  is  now  nearly  filled  with  rubbish,  and  no  water 
is  to  be  seen  in  it. 

On  the  north  side  of  the  stream,  and  opposite  to  the 
well,  stands  Joseph’s  tomb  on  the  lot  which  Jacob 
gave  to  him.  Its  enclosure  is  circular  in  form  and 
open  at  the  top.  Within  this  tomb  the  body  of  Jo- 
seph was  deposited  by  the  Israelites  on  their  return 
from  Egvpt,  and  here  it  still  reposes.  Joseph  was 
one  of  the  noblest  characters  depicted  in  the  ancient 
history  of  the  world,  even  when  contrasted  with  illus- 
trious kings,  warriors,  or  lawgivers.  His  tomb,  and 
also  the  small  mosque  within  which  it  is  enclosed,  are 
covered  with  the  names  of  the  thousands  who  have 
visited  it,  traced  in  every  written  language  of  which 
we  have  a knowledge.  This  tomb,  it  is  said,  is  now 
venerated  equally  by  Jews  and  Samaritans,  Mussul- 
man and  Christians. 

The  city  of  Sliechem  is  called  Nabelus  by  its  pres- 
ent-inhabitants. It  is  situated  between  two  and  three 
miles  from  Jacob’s  well,  and  isrnn  the  line  of  the  cen- 
tral route  from  Jerusalem  to  Galilee.  It  contains  up- 
ward of  ten  thousand  inhabitants.  The  famous  sum- 
mits of  Ebal  aitd  Gerizim— the  mountains  of  blessing 
and  cursing — bound  the  valley  on  the  north  and  south, 
and  rise  about  eight  hundred  feet  in  height. 

The  town  itself  has  ever  been  memorable  in  the 
history  of  the  Jewish  nation,  and  is  beyond  all  doubt, 
one  of  the  oldest  cities  within  the  limits  of  Palestine. 
Long  before  Greece  or  Bonie  was  heard  of,  its  meridian 
age  had  passed.  It  was  known  and  distinguished  as 
Shechem  before  Abraham,  by  divine  command,  re- 


PLAIN  OF  MORE II. 


181 


moved  with  his  kindred  and  servants  from  Karan  in 
Mesopotamia,  to  this,  which  then  was,  to  him,  a 
strange  land.  Jt  was  here  that  he  pitched  his  tent 
two  thousand  and  thirty -five  years  before  Christ,  and 
while  the  Canaanites  were  still  in  possession.  It  was 
on  this  hallowed  ground  that  the  Lord  appeared  unto 
him  and  said,  as  we  read  in  the  twelfth  chapter  of 
Genesis,  “ Unto  thy  seed  I give  this  land  and  here, 
as  it  also  is  written,  “ he  budded  an  altar  to  the  Lord.” 

I felt  satisfied  while  passing  through  this  city  and 
beautiful  valley,  that  my  feet  were  pressing  the  very 
ground  that  had  once  been  trod  by  that  illustrious  pa- 
triarch exactly  three  thousand  nine  hundred  and  nine- 
ty-four years  ago.  Here,  too,  was  enacted  the  terrible 
tragedy,  connected  with  the  dishonor  of  Dinah,  by 
Shechem,  the  son  of  Ilainor,  the  prince  of  the  coun- 
try. In  consequence  of  this  act,  all  the  male  inhabi- 
tants of  the  city,  together  with  Hamor  and  She- 
chem, were  slaughtered  by  the  sons  of  Jacob,  who, 
with  his  entire  household,  immediately  thereafter  re- 
moved to  Bethel. 

It  was  here  that  the  Israelites,  after  their  return 
from  Egypt,  ratified  the  law  of  the  Lord.  Six  tribes 
on  Ebal,  and  as  many  on  Gerizim — the  ark  and  the 
attendant  priests  in  the  valley  below — pronounced 
the  blessing  and  the  curse,  and  all  the  assembly  res- 
ponded to  heaven  wfith  a solemn  Amen.  (Deuf.  xxvii.) 
And  here  Joshua  assembled  the  hosts  for  the  last  time, 
and  renewed  the  covenant  between  them  and  the 
Lord.  (Joshua  xxiv.)  This  place  was  also  the  scene 
of  the  treachery  of  Abimelech,  and  the  parable  of 
Jotham.  (Judges  ix)  And  above  all  it  was  at  Ja- 
cob’s well,  but  a short  distance  from  the  city,  that 
Jesus,  in  the  middle  of  his  second  day’s  journey  from 
J erusalem,  seated  himself  for  rest,  while  his  disciples 
passed  up  the  valley  to  the  city  for  the  purchase  of 
provisions ; and  it  was  while  awaiting  their  return 


182  . 


PLAIN  OF  MOREH. 


that  the  Saviour  conversed  with  the  woman  of  Sam- 
aria, who  had  come  to  draw  water  from  the  well. 
(John  iv. 

The  city,  after  the  return  of  the  Israelites,  was  for 
centuries  their  great  gathering  place,  and  on  Ebal  an 
altar  was  erected,  upon  which  the  law  was  inscribed. 
The  Samaritan  priests  could  not  inform  jne  whether 
those  great  stones  which  God  commanded  Joshua  to 
set  up  on  Mount  Gerizim  were  yet  standing.  I was 
shown,  however,  in  their  synagogue  in  this  city,  a copy 
of  the  Pentateuch,  on  two  rolls,  which  the  priests 
declared  to  be  the  oldest  manuscript  in  the  world. 
According  to  their  statement,  it  was  written  by  Abi- 
shua,  the  son  of  Phineas,  the  son  of  Eleazar,  the  son 
of  Aaron.  Mr.  Elliot,  who  visited  here  several  years 
ago,  examined  it  carefully,  and  coincided  with  the 
priests  in  regard  to  its  antiquity. 

Most  of  the  sacred  localities  in  the  Holy  Land  have 
their  advocates  in  respect  to  their  identity,  while 
many  able  writers  deny  their  authenticity ; but  no 
one  has  ever  questioned  the  identity  of  the  city  of 
Shechem.  The  Habelus  of  to-day  is  the  Shechem  of 
upward  of  four  thousand  years  ago.  And  while  there 
is  but  little  in  the  city  itself  to  attract  the  attention  of 
tourists,  yet  I regard  it  as  one  of  the  most  important 
points  within  the  limits  of  Palestine. 

The  valley  of  Shechem  or  Nabelus  is,  so  far  as 
natural  scenery  is  concerned,  one  of  the  finest  and 
most  verdant  in  Samaria.  It  sparkles  with  fountains 
and  streams.  It  is  full  of  delight  in  itself,  and  ren- 
dered surpassingly  interesting  by  reason  of  its  histo- 
rical associations.  There  is  a large  olive  orchard  ex- 
tending from  the  eastern  side  of  the  city  to  near  the 
plains  of  Moreh;  and  on  the  opposite  side,  the  valley 
descends  gently  toward  the  west,  and  every  part  of  it 
is  cultivated  like  a garden.  The  land  is  irrigated  by 
living  streams,  and  vegetables  and  fruit  of  all  kinds 


SAMARIA. 


4 


183 


are  raised  in  perfection.  It  is  said  that  many  of  the 
bearing  olive-trees  now  standing  were  planted  over 
one  thousand  years  ago.  The  terraces  on  the  sides 
of  the  mountains  are  in  a better  state  than  those  I 
saw  in  Judea  or  any  part  of  Samaria. 

The  inhabitants  of  the  city  are  composed  chiefly  of 
Samaritans,  Jews,  Mussulmen  and  a few  Christians, 
who  are  principally  engaged  in  manufacturing  estab- 
lishments.. The  pastoral  inhabitants  of  this  region 
are  exceedingly  warlike  in  their  appearance,  and  are 
armed  with  long  guns,  daggers,  and  pistols,  as  if  they 
were  ferocious  brigands  instead  of  being  the  honest 
and  industrious  shepherds  that  they  are.  I presume 
they  go  armed,  to  enable  them  to  successfully  defend 
themselves  and  cattle  from  the  wandering  Arabs,  who 
sometimes  visit  the  plains  of  Moreh. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX. 

SAMARIA. 


Samaria — Ahab,  the  King— Historical  Events— Occupation  of  its  Inhabitants— 
Journeying  to  Galilee — Plain  of  Esdraelon — Penin. 


After  having  examined,  with  much  care,  all  the 
places  of  interest  in  the  city  of  Shechem  and  its  vici- 
nity, we  took  the  shortest  and  most  direct  route  to 
the  once  royal  city  of  Samaria.  The  road  leads  over 
an  almost  impassable  range  of  mountain  ridges.  The 
traveller  may,  however,  avoid  these  difficult  and  dan- 
gerous mountain  passes,  by  following  the  course  of  the 
valley,  which  is  the  usual  and  by  far  the  most  pleasant 
route.  The  distance  between  the  two  cities,  by  the 
mountain  pass,  is  only  five  miles,  while  by  tSte  other 
road  it  is  nine.  This  beautiful  valleyyafter  pursuing 


184 


SAMARIA. 


its  course  westward  for  several  miles,  spreads  into  a 
broad  circular  basin,  six  miles  in  diameter,  bounded 
on  every  side  by  mountains  rising  far  above  the  site 
of  this  renowned  city.  The  city  itself  was  built  upon 
a semi-spherical  mount,  standing  alone  within  the  en- 
closed basin  or  hollow,  by  Omri,  King  of  Israel,  nine 
hundred  and  twenty  six  years  before  Christ.  The 
houses  commenced  at  its  base  and  rose  in  terraces  three 
hundred  feet  to  its  summit.  The  sacred  account  of 
this  city  and  King  Omri,  reads  thus: — u And  he 
bought  the  hill  Samaria  of  Shemer  for  two  talents  of 
silver,  and  built  on  the  hill,  and  called  the  name  of' 
the  city  which  he  built  after  the  name  of  Shemer 
owner  of  the  hill  Samaria.”  (1  Kings  xvi.  24). 

Ahab,  who  was  crowned  King  of  Israel  afterward, 
adorned  it  in  accordance  with  his  luxurious  taste.  Its, 
position  at  that  early  period  was  one  of  commanding 
strength  and  surpassing  loveliness  ; but  the  city  itself 
is  now  in  ruins.  A part  of  the  western  gate  is  still 
standing,  from  whence  there  is  a fine  view  of  the 
mountains  and  valleys  surrounding  it,  with  the  Medi- 
terranean in  the  distance.  There  are,  also,  many 
broken  columns  still  standing  at  different  points  on 
the  mount,  with  their  bases  deeply  embedded  in  the 
soil,  and  thousands  of  others  lie  broken  and  scattered 
on  the  ground. 

The  city  of  Samaria  was  greatly  distinguished  in 
the  history  of  the  kings  of  Israel  and  the  prophets 
Elijah  and  Elisha  in  connection  with  the  numerous 
famines  of  the  land.  For  two  hundred  years  this 
city  was  the  seat  of  idolatry  and  subject  of  prophetic 
denunciations,  which  continued  until  the  carrying 
away  of  the  ten  tribes  into  captivity.  The  Samari- 
tans of  this  day  entertain,  in  all  strictness,  as  did  their 
sires,  a belief  in  one  God  and  in  the  resurrection  of 
the  heart  at  the  day  of  judgment ; but  they  reject  the 
prophets,  and  all  the  sacred  books,  excepting  those 


SAMARIA. 


185 


of  Moses,  a very  ancient  copy  of  which  is  still  pre- 
served by  them  at  Shechem,  as  stated  in  a former 
chapter.  It  was  here  that  John  the  Baptist  was  im- 
prisoned when  Herod,  in  the  midst  of  feasting  and 
revelry,  sent  executioners  to  put  him  to  death.  And 
here,  too,  the  Empress  Helena  built  a beautiful 
church  over  the  spot  consecrated  by  the  ashes,  not 
only  of  John,  but  of  Elisha  and  Obadiah. 

The  present  inhabitants,  who  are  chiefly  agricultu- 
rists, have  built  their  town  on  the  south-east  declivity 
of  the*hill,  with  materials  taken  from  the  ruins  of  the 
renowned  ancient  city.  The  soil  of  the  surrounding 
valleys  is  rich  and  exceedingly  fertile  ; and  as  it  is 
irrigated  by  an  abundant  supply  of  water,  the  people 
are  enabled  to  keep  their  lands  under  a good  state  of 
cultivation.  I noticed  fine  growing  crops  on  the  very 
site  of  the  old  town.  Their  flocks  and  herds  are 
numerous;  besides  they  have  figs,  grapes,  olives, 
oranges,  and  many  other  kinds  of  delicious  fruits.  It 
was  to  me,  however,  exceedingly  melancholy  to  roam 
among  these  ruins,  once  the  abode  of  a refined  and 
polished  people. 

I was  disposed  on  that  account  to  hasten  my  de- 
parture from  it,  and  we,  therefore,  lost  no  time  in  pro- 
ceeding on  our  journey  to  Galilee,  going  by  the 
bridle-path  leading  over  one  of  the  highest  and  most 
difficult  mountain  passes  in  Samaria.  The  view  of 
the  site  of  this  city  and  its  ruins  from  the  summit  of 
the  mountain,  presents  a striking  contrast  to  what 
it  once  must  have  exhibited,  when  covered  with 
splendid  terraces,  turretted  walls,  impregnable  castles 
and  gorgeous  palaces.  After  enjoying  for  a time  the 
view  from  this  elevated  point,  we  resumed  our  jour- 
ney, meditating  upon  the  mournful  history  of  the  city 
as  we  descended  toward  the  broad  and  beautiful  val- 
ley of  Dothan,  where  Joseph  was  so  wickedly  betray- 
ed by  his  brethren,  and  where,  too,  the  Syrian  hosts 


186 


SAMARIA. 


were  smitten  with  blindness,  and  led  by  Elisha,  whom 
they  came  to  destroy  to  Samaria.  (2  Kings  vi.  13-23). 

We  arrived  at  Jenin  before  sundown,  and  found 
our  tent  prepared  for  our  reception.  The  town  stands 
at  the  commencement  of  the  plain  of  Esdraelon, 
called  by  Josephus  the  great  plain  of  Magiddo.  It 
is  also  distinguished  by  the  appellation  of  the  “fa- 
mous battle-field  of  all  ages  and  nations,”  and  is  by 
far  the  most  attractive  spot  for  tourists  in  Galilee.  It 
presents  an  undulating  surface  of  gentle  elevation, 
with  an  average  level  above  the  sea  of  four  hundred 
feet.  It  possesses  the  elements  of  great  fertility,  with 
a rich,  alluvial  soil,  resting  on  a substratum  of  gravel 
with  limestone.  It  is  twenty -five  miles  in  length  by 
eighteen  in  breadth,  and  is  bounded  on  the  north  by 
the  mountains  of  Galilee,  on  the  south  by  those  of 
Samaria,  on  the  west  by  Mount  Carmel,  and  on  the 
east  by  mounts  Tabor,  Little  Hermon,  and  Gil  boa — 
these  last  two  commence  at  the  brow  of  the  Jordan 
on  the  east,  and  run  westwardly,  nearly  parallel  with 
each  other  for  six  miles,  penetrating  nearly  to  the  cen- 
tre of  this  plain.  Indeed,  were  it  not  for  these  moun- 
tain ridges,  the  plain  would  extend  from  Mount  Carmel 
to  the  Jordan,*  since  they  rise,  in  fact,  from  the  plain 
itself,  and  are  separated  from  each  other  by  the  val- 
ley of  J ezreel.  Mount  Gilboa  is  also  separated  from 
the  Samaria  range  of  mountains  on  the  south  by  an 
extensive  valley;  as  is,  likewise,  Mount  Tabor  from 
Little  llermon  by  a vale  sometimes  called  Tabor  val- 
ley. (1  Samuel  x.  3). 

These  three  valleys  extend,  from  the  plains  of  Es- 
draelon, in  an  easterly  course,  and  connect  with  the 
valley  of  the  Jordan;  hence  they  might,  with  great 
propriety,  be  considered  as  parts  of  the  great  plain 
itself.  Mount  Tabor  is  connected  on  the  north  side 
with  the  Galilee  mountains,  by  a low  ridge,  of  two 
hundred  feet  in  height ; but  for  this  circumstance,  it 


BEDOUINS. 


187 


would  stand  entirely  isolated  in  the  plain,  as  most 
travellers  seem  to  think  it  does.  Its  height  from  the 
north  side  of  this  connecting  link  is  at  least  sixteen 
hundred  feet,  while  on  its  southern  side  it  is  eighteen 
hundred.  Its  base  is  three  miles  in  extent  from  north 
to  south,*  approaching  to  within  two  miles  of  Little 
Herrnon ; and  its  form,  as  seen  from  the  west,  is  like 
the  segment  of  a sphere.  There  is  a tine  view  of  this 
plain  and  surrounding  country  from  Jenin,  embracing 
in  its  range  the  ridge  of  Mount  Gilboa. 


CHAPTEB  XL. 

% 

BEDOUIN^. 

Mount  Gilboa— Aliab  -Views  of  Mount  Hermon — Sheep  and  Goats —Costume 
of  the  People-  The  Druses— The  Bedouins — Their  Character — Their  Laws. 

We  took  our  departure  from  Jenin  at  an  early  hour 
in  the  morning,  passing  over  the  plain  of  Esdraelon, 
and  in  a few  hours  we  arrived  at  Jezreel,  situated  on 
the  western*  extremity  of  Mount  Gilboa.  It  was  in 
this  once  royal  town  that  Aliab  had  his  summer  pal- 
ace, and  near  it  was  the  vineyard  of  Naboth,  and  the 
scene  of  his  tragical  death.  (1  Kings  xxi.)  Here 
Jehu  executed  the  exterminating  decree  of  Heaven 
against  the  heirs  of  Aliab.  (1  Kings  xix.  25.) 

This,  too,  is  the  battlelield  where  Gideon  triumphed. 
It  was  on  this  hill,  and  by  the  fountain  of  Jezreel, 
that  Saul’s  men  had  taken  their  position,  while  Little 
Ilermon  was  occupied  by  the  Philistines — the  two 
armies  being  in  sight  of  each  other,  and  only  three 
miles  apart.  It  was  from  this  spot  that  Saul,  in  dis- 
tress, passed  across  the  valley  and  beyond  the  camp 
of  the  Philistines,  to  consult  the  sorceress  at  Endor, 


188 


BEDOUINS. 


which  is  situated  on  the  north  side  of  Little  Hermon. 
I regarded  attentively  this  valley,  which  had  been 
the  scene  of  the  fatal  battle,  when  the  men  of  Israel 
fled  before  the  Philistines,  and  fell,  slain,  on  Mount 
Gilboa. 

There  is  much,  in  the  historical  associations  of  this 
place,  to  interest  the  tourist;  and,  after  having  ex- 
amined everything  that  remained  deserving  conside- 
ration, we  proceeded  on  our  journey  to  Mount  Her- 
mon, our  course  taking  us  through  the  beautiful  val- 
ley of  Jezreel.  Here  we  encountered  an  extensive 
encampment,  or  tent  settlement,  of  wandering  Bed- 
ouins. Their  flocks  of  sheep  and  goats  dotted  the 
plain  in  every  direction.  Their  black  tents  were  seen 
spread,  at  intervals,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach ; 
and  their  fine  Arabian  horses,  which  they  regard, 
next  to  their  families,  as  the  greatest  of  their  earthly 
treasures,  were  picketed  near  at  hand — the  whole 
forming  a wild,  picturesque,  and  beautiful  scene. 

The  emirs,  or  princes,  of  the  various  tribes  had 
their  tents,  in  all  cases  where  it  was  practicable, 
pitched  on  ground  overlooking  the  encampment. 
Their  tents  are  composed  of  strong,  coarse  stuff,  like 
sacking,  woven  in  a broad  mass  of  black;  relieved  by 
a white  line.  The  women  are  neatly  clad  in  loose 
dresses  of  blue  serge,  gathered  about  their  waists. 
They  are  celebrated  for  their  black,  piercing  eyes  ; 
and  while  most  of  them  are  comely  in  appearance,  I 
saw  none  who  could  be  pronounced  strikingly  ♦beau- 
tiful. The  complexion  of  both  sexes  is,  by  reason  of 
their  exposure  to  scorching  suns,  of  a delicate  brown 
color  : those  who  are  not  thus  exposed,  present  arsal- 
low  appearance.  Many  of  the  men  whom  we  met, 
especially  those  advanced  in  life,  were  truly  patri- 
archal in  their  aspect.  They  are  usually  clothed  in 
the  broad  and  simple  folds  of  their  striped  robes,  with 
exceedingly  neat  head-dresses,  composed  of  striped 


BEDOUINS. 


189 


handkerchiefs.  Some,  as  we  passed  by  them  re- 
garded us,  apparently,  with  much  interest.  When 
they  were  informed,  by  our  dragoman,  that  we  were 
'from  America,  they  styled  us  “strangers  from  the 
land  of  the  setting  sun.’5 

It  is  not  deemed  safe,  however,  to  pass  through  their 
country,  or  that  of  the  Druses,  when  either  is  engag- 
ed in  war,  for  at  such  times  they  both  look  upon  all 
who  are  not  of  their  family  or  kindred  as  their  enemies; 
but  in  times  of  peace,  the  traveller  will  be  quite  as 
secure  in  their  midst  as  he  would  if  among  the  most 
enlightened  of  the  eastern  nations.  They  hold  as 
sacred  the  rights  of  hospitality,  and  the  most  defence- 
less is  certain  of  protection,  if  they  have  once  allowed 
him  shelter,  or  a place  at  their  frugal  board.  They 
are  expert  horsemen  and  accurate  marksmen.  I have 
seen  them  on  their  well-groomed  and  well-trained 
Arabian  steeds,  while  in  full  speed,  discharge  their 
javelins  with  wonderful  accuracy  of  aim,  and  then,  in 
an  instant,  check  their  formidable  speed,  and  turn 
their  horses  quietly  about.  Their  leading  men  are 
polite  and  courteous  to  strangers,  always  making  it  a 
rule  to  bow  in  the  most  gracious  manner  when  passing 
a traveller. 

“The  Bedouins,”  says  Burckhardt,  “ are,  perhaps, 
the  only  people  in  the  East  that  can  in  justice  be  en- 
titled ‘ the  true  lover.’  In  the  desert  the  Arab  maid 
leads  forth  her  father’s  sheep  and  mixes  freely  with 
the  young  men  of  her  tribe,  and  yet  her  modesty 
amounts  even  to  prudery — the  breath  of  slander  is 
never  raised  against  her.  Love,  there,  often  springs 
up  almost  in  childhood,  and  is  fostered  during  a series 
of  years.” 

Their  laws  have  a simple  honesty,  which  is  religious- 
ly observed  by  them.  The  following  will  sufficiently 
il.ustrate  their  character.  If  a Bedouin  is  in  debt 
and  refuses  to  pay,  the  creditor  takes  two  or  three 


190 


BEDOUINS. 


men  as  witnesses  of  the  refusal ; he  then  seizes,  if  lie 
can,  a camel,  or  some  other  property  belongingto  his 
(Tebtor,  and  deposits  it  with  one  of  his  witnesses.  This 
brings  the  case  to  trial  before  the  judge,  and  the  deb- 
tor forfeits  the  article  seized. 

In  a case  of  assault  and  battery  damages  are  given 
to  the  amount  of  the  injury ; if  both  parties  are  wound- 
ed, the  balance  is  struck  between  them,  and  the  par- 
ty least  injured  pays  a fine  equal  to  the  difference. 

In  a case  of  killing  they  hold  to  the  doctrine,  “ that 
whoso  sheddeth  man’s  blood,  by  man  shall  his  blood 
be  shed  this  law  is  religiously  executed  by  them.  It 
is  not  only  the  right,  according  to  their  code,  but  the 
duty,  of  the  near  relatives  of  the  deceased  to  slay  the 
murderer  whenever  he  may  be  found.  This  irre- 
vocable sentence  of  death,  which  is  always  approved 
of  by  the  tribe,  hangs  over  the  guilty  person  until  he 
is  put  to  death,  which  may  happen  at  any  moment, 
and  no  oiie  can  tell  when  or  where  it  may  occur. 
Weeks,  months,  years  may  pass,  yet  the  terrible  sen- 
tence is  not  forgotten,  but  will  at  last  surely  be  execu- 
ted. 

We  continued  our  journey  through  the  Bedouin 
encampment  without  the  slightest  apprehension  of 
any  molestation  from  them.  We  encountered  many 
of  their  leading  men  on  horseback,  armed  with  im- 
mense long  guns  and  lances,  and  with  their  belts 
ornamented  with  numerous  pistols  and  dirks.  In 
every  respect  prepared  for  combat  with,  or  pursuit  of, 
an  enemy. 


MOUNT  TABOR. 


191 


CHAPTER  XLL 

MOUNT  TABOR. 


Nam — The  Widow’s  Son — Mt.  Tabor — A New  Mosque— The  Transfiguration — 

Cradle  of  Christianity — Nazareth — Mount  of  Beatitudes — Talley  of  the 

Jordan — Route  to  Damascus— El  Malek — Prophets  of  Baal. 

We  arrived  at  the  site  of  the  ancient  town  of  Nain, 
situated  on  the  western  declivity  of  little  Hermon, 
and  three  miles  distant  from  Jezreel,  early  in  the  af- 
ternoon of  the  day  we  left  Jenin.  This  spot  is  the  scene 
of  that  touching  incident,  the  raising  of  the  widow’s 
son,  described  in  the  seventh  chapter  of  St.  Luke. 
There  is  nothing  now  to  attract  the  tourist  to  this 
place,  but  its  having  been  the  scene  of  this  miracle, 
which  will  ever  render  it  a memorable  and  sacred  lo- 
cality. In  olden  times  Nain  was  considered  a de- 
lightful and  beautiful  place,  as  it  abounded  with 
pleasant  rural  walks  and  pure  waters,  and  possessed 
much  prosperity  and  wealth ; but  at  present  it  is 
greatly  fallen,  and  scarcely  pretends  to  the  rank  of  a 
village.  It  is  seven  miles  from  Nazareth,  and  four 
from  Mount  Tabor. 

After  leaving  Nain  we  continued  our  journey  to- 
ward the  north-east,  and  soon  descended  into  the  great 
plain,  where  we  obtained  our  first  view  of  Mount  Ta- 
bor, which  rises  out  of  the  plain,  and,  apparently,  pen- 
etrates the  clouds.  The  scene,  as  we  approached  the 
mount  from  the  west,  was  grand  and  imposing ; nor 
could  I withdraw  my  attention  from  it,  until  we  ar- 
rived at  the  base  of  the  mountain.  We  ascended  to 
the  summit,  on  horseback,  by  an  exceedingly  difficult 
aud  dangerous  winding  bridle-path.  The  distance  by 


192 


MOUNT  TABOR. 


this  way  is  at  least  three  miles,  which  it  took  more 
than  an  hour  to  accomplish.  I supposed,  from  what 
I had  previously  learned  respecting  it,  that  we  would 
tind  it  a desolate  spot;  hut,  to  my  surprise,  there 
were  upward  of  fifty  laborers  from  Nazareth  engaged 
in  erecting,  by  order  of  the  government,  a large  and 
splendid  mosque,  for  the  use  of  Mussulmen  pilgrims. 

I regard  this  as  the  most  sacred  and  interesting  lo- 
cality within  the  boundaries  of  Galilee — for  it  was 
here,  as  it  is  written,  that  the  disciples  of  Jesus — 
Peter,  Janies  and  John — saw  the  Saviour  in  his  trans- 
figuration, when  Peter  said  : “ Lord,  it  is  good  for  us 
to  be  here  ; if  thou  wilt,  let  us  make  here  three  taber- 
nacles: one  for  thee,  and  one  for  Moses,  and  one  for 
Elias.  While  he  yet  spake,  behold,  a bright  cloud 
overshadowed  them  ; and  behold  a voice  out  of  the 
cloud,  which  said,  This  is  my  beloved  Son,  in  whom  I 
am  well  pleased:  hear  ye  him.M 

I am,  and  ever  have  been,  at  a loss  to  know  how 
any  person  who  believes  in  the  Holy  Scripture,  and 
particularly  in  this  account  of  the  transfiguration,  can 
entertain  a doubt  respecting  Christ’s  divinity. 

The  whole  of  Galilee,  which  is  styled  the  “cradle 
of  Christianity,”  is  spread  like  a map  on  every  side  of 
Mount  Tabor.  Nazareth,  where  Jesus  passed  his 
youthful  days,  lies  in  a delightful  valley  or  bade  to 
the  weet ; and  a short  distance  from  it,  on  a mountain 
ridge,  stands  Cana,  where  he  performed  his  first  mira- 
cle. To  the  east  flows  the  Jordan,  on  the  banks  of 
which  he  began  bis  ministry,  and  called  together  his 
disciples.  There,  too,  lies  the  sea  of  Galilee,  em- 
bosomed m the  mountains  which  slope  down  to  its 
waters,  and  where  are  still  10  be  seen  ihe  sites  of  Ca- 
pernaum, Bethsaida,  and  Tiberias — scenes  of  a thou- 
sand hallowed  associations.  There,  also,  rises  the  hill 
on  which  our  Saviour  delivered  his  first  precepts, 
called  tlie  Mount  of  Beatitudes;  and  near  it  is  the 


MOUNT  TABOR. 


193 


great  battle-field  where  Saladin  fought  with,  and  ov- 
ercame, the  Crusaders,  and  took  from  them  the  true 
cross. 

Besides  these  interesting  places,  which  are  all  seen 
from  this  mount,  the  view  of  the  surrounding  conn 
try  is  magnificent.  To  the  north  are  the  mountains 
of  Galilee,  and  beyond  these  are  descried  the  lofty 
ranges  of  Lebanon,  lifting  their  heads  into  the  region 
of  perpetual  snow  and  ice.  On  the  north-east  the 
great  llermon  rises  to  the  height  of  twelve  thousand 
feet.  On  the  east  are  the  hills  of  Hanran,  and  the  coun- 
try of  the  Gadarenes.  Due  south  lies  little  Hermon, 
with  Endor  and  Nain  ; then  follow,  still  further  south, 
the  mountains  of  Gilboa  and  Samaria.  The  great 
pi  tin  of  Esdraelon  stretches  out  to  the  south  and  west, 
and  the  valley  of  the  Jordan  on  the  east,  with  its  deep 
gorges;  hut  not  a tree  or  shrub  is  to  be  seen  any- 
where on  the  vast  plain. 

N either  pen  nor~pencil  can  give  an  adequate  idea 
of  the  matchless  beauty  of  the  scenery  which  sur- 
rounds this  ever-memorable  and  hallowed  mount. 

In  former  times  this  extensive  district,  -which  now 
exhibits  so  few  marks  of  social  life,  teemed  with  the 
results  of  civilization  and  prosperity.  Its  rich  soil,  its 
salubrious  and  temperate  climate,  its  numerous  rains 
of  the  spring  and  autumn,  render  it  one  of  the  most 
fertile  countries  of  the  East.  Its  present  barrenness 
arises  from  the  indolence  and  inactivity  of  its  people. 
Having  no  interest  in  the  soil,  they  have  no  induce- 
ments to  urge  them  to  toil  in  its  cultivation  beyond 
what  will  secure  for  themselves  a bare  subsistence. 
The  country  is  as  capable  this  day  of  sustaining  a 
large  population,  as  it  was  in  any  former  period.  All 
that  is  required  to  insure  this  result  is  a government 
of  sufficient  stability  to  secure  to  the  inhabitants  the 
enjoyment  of  their  rights  and  privileges,  and  protect 
them  and  their  possesions  against  the  wandering  Bed- 

9 


194 


NAZARETH. 


ouins.  By  a late  firman,  foreigners  are  placed  in 
perfect  equality,  in  some  respects,  with  the  faithful, 
such  as  testifying  in  courts  of  justice,  holding  title  to 
hinds,  and  the  right  to  build  churches  for  themselves. 
Indeed  they  are  invited,  and  inducements  held  out  to 
them  by  the  government — to  come  to  Palestine;  or, 
any  other  portion  of  the  Ottoman  Empire,  and  occupy 
as  much  land  as  they  may  desire,  paying  nothing  for 
its  use  for  twelve  years,  and  receiving  at  the  expira- 
tion of  twenty-one  years,  a complete  title  thereof  in 
fee  simple.  Large  tracts  of  land  have,  in  consequence 
of  this  firman,  been  taken  up  near  Jerusalem  by 
Franks,  Jews,  and  Christians,  as  I mentioned  in  a 
former  chapter.  And  I have  no  doubt  but  that  this 
rich  and  beautiful  district  of  country  will,  at  no  dis- 
tant day,  rival  its  former  prosperity. 

Most  travellers  take  the  direct  route  from  Mount 
Tabor  to  Damascus,  and  thereby  lose  the  opportunity 
of  visiting  Tyre  and  Sidon  ; but,  being  desirous  of 
examining  the  ancient  cities  of  Phenicia  on  the  coast,  I 
decided  to  take  the  route  by  the  Mediterranean,  and 
to  visit  Nazareth  and  Tiberias. 


CHAPTER  XLII. 

N 1ZARETH. 


Routes  to  Nazareth  from  Mount  Tabor  -Over  the  Mountains— Nazareth  -Home 
of  Our  Saviour — Greek  Church— Roman  Convent -Cave  of  the  Virgin  — 
Singular  Custom  of  those  Afflicted  with  the  Plague — Water  Carriers — 
Necklaces — Mount  of  Precipitation — Extensive  View— Cana — The  Mar- 
riage. 

Before  leaving  Mount  Tabor  for  the  Mediterra- 
nean, I had  made  up  my  mind  to  visit  Nazareth,  Ti- 
berias, and  other  localities  of  equal  interest  in  Galli- 


NAZARETH. 


195 


lee.  In  accordance  with  this  purpose,  after  having 
devoted  all  the  time  we  desired  to  the  examination 
of  Mount  Tabor  and  the  country  in  its  immediate  vi- 
cinity, we  made  the  necessary  preparations  for  pur- 
suing our  journey  tov^ards  Nazareth. 

There  are  two  routes  leading  to  it  from  this  mount, 
one  in  a westerly  course,  down  the  plain  of  Esdraelon 
for  a distance  of  ten  miles,  thence  up  a narrow  vale, 
two  miles  in  extent,  to  Nazareth.  This  is  a level 
route,  and  in  my  opinion  to  be  preferred  to  the  other, 
which  leads  over  the  Gallilean  range  of  mountains, 
and  being,  as  it  were,  the  hypothenuse  of  a trian- 
gle, is  the  most  direct  and  also  the  most  picturesque. 
Our  dragoman,  in  order  to  save  a few  miles  of  travel, 
took  us  this  route,  and  we  had  consequently  to  climb 
from  mountain  ridge  to  mountain  ridge,  over  the 
usual  stony  paths  ot  the  country.  On  reaching  the 
summit  of  the  mountain,  lying  to  the  east  of  Naza- 
reth, we  had  a tine  bird’s-eye  view  of  the  town  and  its 
beautiful  valley,  which  is  three-fourths  of  a mile  in 
length,  and  one-fourth  of  a mile  in  width. 

The  town  is  situated  on  a plateau  of  land  on  the 
side  of  the  mountain,  lying  west  of  this  lovely  vale. 
The  charming  picture  which  was  spread  before  us, 
more  than  compensated  us  for  the  toil  and  trouble 
we  had  undergone  in  our  journey  over  this  difficult 
road,  which  was  exceedingly  rough  and  rugged.  Naz- 
areth will  ever  be  memorable  for  having  been  the 
abiding  place  of  our  Saviour  during  the  first  thirty 
years  of  his  life.  The  Hebrews  continued  to  inhabit 
it,  in  the  time  of  the  Homans,  and  until  the  reign  of 
Constantine,  when  it  fell  successively  into  the  hands 
of  the  Christians  and  the  Saracens.  At  one  time  it  was 
the  see  of  an  archbishop,  and  held  the  third  rank 
among  the  metropolitan  cities  dependant  upon  the 
patriarch  of  Jerusalem.  It  is  now,  however,  reduced 
to  a population  of  about  two  thousand  souls,  and  most 


196 


NAZARETH. 


of  these  are  Christians.  The  dwellings  are  of  stone, 
with  flat  roofs,  and  some  are  well  built ; but  the 
larger  part  are  frail  tenements,  scattered  irregularly 
about.  At  the  present  day  but  few  of  its  ancient 
edifices  remain.  There  is  still  standing,  however,  in 
a dilapidated  condition,  an  old  castle,  and  the  follow- 
ing public  structures  : A Greek  church,  and  a Roman 
Catholic  convent,  with  twelve  or  fourteen  friars,  toge- 
ther with  a very  handsome  church  attached  to  the 
latter  institution,  which  is  erected  over  a cave,  said 
once  to  have  been  the  residence  of  the  Virgin  Mary. 
This  cave,  which  is  richly  fitted  up  with  ornaments 
and  fine  paintings,  is  used  as  a chapel.  We  were 
courteously  conducted  through  it  by  the  friars,  and 
shown  every  place  in  the  vicinity  which  was  esteemed 
holy  in  character.  Wlren  the  plague  prevails  here, 
which  is  often  the  case,  the  sick  crowd  eagerly  to  the 
church,  to  rub  themselves  against  the  pillars  and 
hangings,  under  the  belief  that  thereby  they  obtain  a 
certain  cure. 

We  encamped  among  the  olive  trees,  just  above 
the  spring  denominated  “the  fountain  of  the  Yirgin 
Mary,”  which  gave  us  a fine  opportunity  to  observe 
the  inhabitants  of  the  town,  who  enjoy  their  leisure 
in  walking  thither  at  the  cool  of  the  day  for  exercise, 
and  the  laboring  classes  who  come  to  the  spring  for 
water.  The  larger  portion  of  these  last  are  women, 
who  bear  pails,  filled  with  water,  on  their  heads,  as 
in  days  of  yore.  Most  of  the  women  would  stop  at 
our  tent  on  their  way  to  the  spring,  and  regard  us  at- 
tentively. Their  attire  was  plain ; but  they  all  wore 
necklaces,  formed  of  small  gold  and  silver  coins,  per- 
forated with  holes  which  enabled  them  to  be  strung 
together,  and  worn  around  their  necks.  As  these 
necklaces  form  a part  of  their  paraphernalia  they  are 
exempt,  by  the  laws  of  the  country,  from  execution 
for  rent,  and  taxation.  It  is  for  these  reasons  that 


NAZARETH. 


197 


the  common  people  wear  their  ornaments  constantly, 
and  continually  add  to  them  all  the  money  they  can 
save.  When  pressed  for  funds  for  immediate  use, 
they  detach  a piece  of  coin  from  their  necklace  and 
use  it.  The  women  of  this  place  have  long  been  cel- 
ebrated for  their  beauty,  and  so  far  as  our  experience 
went,  we  found  them  possessed  of  all  the  loveliness 
attributed  to  them. 

Some  travellers  seem  to  think  that  the  ancient  Na- 
zareth was  near  the  plain  of  Esdraelon,  for  the  mount 
of  precipitation,  (which  tradition  avers  was  the  scene 
of  that  occurrence,)  is  near  this  plain.  It  is  very  pro- 
bable that  at  an  early  date  the  town  may  have  ex- 
tended to  that  precipice  ; and  it  is  very  clear,  I think, 
that  the  fountain  now  used  by  its  inhabitants  was  also 
known  to  its  people  in  the  days  of  our  Saviour.  We 
passed  around  the  town,  during  our  sojourn  there,  in 
every  direction,  not  doubting  that  our  feet  were  press- 
ing the  very  ground  trodden  by  our  Lord  in  his  youth- 
ful years,  and  drank  from  the  fountain,  with  the  wa- 
ters of  which  He  doubtless,  had  often  quenched  his 
thirst. 

I think  any  person  might  pass  many  days  at  Na- 
zareth and  its  vicinity  both  pleasantly  and  instruct- 
ively, in  rambling  over  this  hallowed  ground.  The 
view  from  the  summit  of  the  hill,  at  the  west  of  the 
town,  will  well  repay  the  tourist  for  the  time  occupied 
in  ascending  and  descending  that  eminence.  From  it 
Mount  Carmel  is  distinctly  seen  through  its  whole  ex- 
tent, stretching  along  the  plain  of  Esdraelon,  until  it 
sinks  into  the  Mediterranean.  The  eyes  of  the  spec- 
tator also  take  in  the  beautiful  bay,  lying  between  the 
headlands  dipping  into  the  sea,  and  the  ancient  city 
of  Acher.  Turning  from  these  again  towards  the 
south-east,  Mount  Tabor  is  seen  towering  above  the 
mountains  of  Galilee,  and  stretching  from  Nazareth  to 
the  latter-named  mountains.  Still  further  to  the  south 


198 


SEA  OF  TIBERIAS. 


lies  the  great  plain  of  Esdraelon,  (the  battle  field  of  all 
ages  and  nations,)  like  a vast  and  mighty  ocean,  un- 
moved by  tempests,  and  unconscious  of  the  rivers  of 
human  blood  which  had  there  been  shed  ; and  bound- 
ing it  on  the  south  and  east  rise  the  mountains  of 
Samaria,  Gilboa,  and  Little  Hermon,  like  giant  war- 
ders guarding  its  repose.  Gladly  would  I have  passed 
several  months  in  this  delightful  region  in  order  to 
have  visited  the  numerous  objects  and  places  of  in- 
terest in  its  vicinity  ; but  our  time  was  limited  and 
after  a comparatively  short  stay  we  resumed  our  jour- 
ney. 

We  passed  over  the  Galilee  range  of  mountains, 
and  proceeded  to  Cana,  where  our  Saviour  turned 
^ater  into  wine  at  the  wedding  feast.  We  drank 
from  the  fountain  from  whence  tradition  says  the  wa- 
ter was  taken  ; and  saw  the  ruins  of  the  house  in 
which  the  wedding  guests  were  assemble^  and  also 
the  house  said  to  have  belonged  to  Simon.  From  this 
spot  we  continued  our  journey  eastward,  and  soon 
descended  into  the  valley,  anciently  known  by  the 
name  of  Jephthah-el,  but  now  called  el  Buttwaf,  ly- 
ing north  of  Esdraelon,  and  which  we  pursued  until 
we  reached  Tiberias. 


CHAPTER  XLIII. 


SEA  OF  TIBERIAS. 


Biblical  Associations — Optical  Illusion— Size  of  the  Sea — The  Shores  Mag- 
dala — Tiberias — Ancient  Cities — Water  and  Fish — Raphael’s  Cartoon — 
Dead  Sea — Jordan — ltakkath— The  Talmuds — Mineral  Waters — Baths — 
View  from  their  Vicinity — Earthquake— Wretchedness  of  the  Inhabitants 
— Vespasian — Josephus  Quoted — Naval  Battle -Bridle  Rath  in  the  Moun- 
tains—Miracle  of  the  Loaves  and  Fishes— Sermon  on  the  Mount  Battle 
of  Saladin  and  the  Crusaders,  ID?— Mount  Tabor— Ziphthak-el— Sale  of 
Joseph— Dothan— The  Field  of  the  plucked  Corn— El  Malek — Kison. 


The  Sea  of  Tiberias,  or  Galilee,  with  its  picturesque 
scenery,  and  numerous  •sacred  localities  on  its  bor- 


SEA  OF  TIBERIAS. 


199 


ders,  the  scenes  of  so  many  thrilling  incidents  con- 
nected with  our  Lord’s  ministry,  is  hailed  with  joy 
by  all  travellers  on  their  first  approach  to  it ; for  there 
is  no  region  on  earth,  except  Jerusalem  and  its  envi- 
rons, which  is  richer  in  Biblical  associations.  Tibe- 
rias is  far  from  being  a large  sheet  of  water,  yet, 
small  as  it  is  in  extent,  it  is  a remarkable  fact,  that 
no  two  of  the  numerous  travellers  who  have  visited 
it,  have  ever  agreed  in  their  estimate  of  its  dimen- 
sions. This  circumstance  is  owing,  I think,  in  part 
to  the  atmosphere  of  the  climate  being  so  transparent 
that  one  is  liable  to  be  greatly  deceived  in  regard  to 
measuring  distances  by  the  eye  alone;  or,  in  other 
words,  the  refractive  power  of  the  atmosphere  proba- 
bly produced  by  a diminution  of  the  density  of  its 
lower  stratum,  in  consequence  of  the  increase  of  heat 
communicated  to  it  by  the  rays  of  the  sun,  powerfully 
reflected  from  the  surface  of  the  earth,  produces  an 
optical  illusion  by  which  objects  seen  across  the  water 
are  brought  nearer.  This  illusion'  is  described  at 
length  in  Appleton’s  New  American  Encyclopedia, 
under  the  general  heads  of  “ Mirague,”  and  “ Fata 
_ Morgana.” 

Often,  too,  the  first  view  many  travellers  obtain  of 
it  is  from  the  summit  of  the  neighboring  mountain, 
which  is  at  least  one  thousand  feet  above  the  sea’s 
level,  and  as  the  eye  embraces  at  one  glance  its  en- 
tire extent,  the  dimensions  are  thereby  materially 
contracted,  or  at  least  it  appears  much  smaller  than 
it  really  is.  To  me  it  did  not  seem  to  be  over  four 
miles  in  width,  and  six  in  length,  and  yet  it  is  more 
than  twice  these  distances,  being  eight  miles  wide 
and  fourteen  long!  It  is  to  be  regretted  that  Lieut. 
Lynch  and  his  party  from  the  United  States  did  not 
find  time  while  here,  to  make  an  accurate  survey  of 
this  remarkable  lake.  It  is  more  frequently,  I am 
aware,  called  a sea  than  a lajp,  but  the  latter  term, 


200 


SEA  OF  TIBERIAS. 


in  my  judgment,  is  more  correct  than  the  former. 
The  people  of  the  country,  according  to  Josephus, 
knew  it  as  Lake  Genesareth,  from  the  name  of  the 
country  adjoining  its  waters.  It  is  in  truth  formed 
by  a wide  expansion  of  the  Jordan  on  its  way  to  its 
confluence  with  the  Dead  Sea.  It  lies  in  a deep  val- 
ley about  three  hundred  and  twenty-eight  feet  below 
the  Mediterranean,  embosomed  in  the  glorious  moun- 
tains which  encircle  it,  and  which,  on  the  eastern 
side,  rise  boldly  from  its  surface  to  the  height  of 
twelve  hundred  feet,  so  that  there  exists  no  plain  of 
land  on  that  side  of  suflicient  extent  on  which  to  have 
built  a town.  On  the  western  side  however,  the 
mountains,  which  rise  to  a height  of  about  one  thou- 
sand feet,  recede  near  the  centre,  from  the  shore,  and 
from  the  southern  portion  of  the  plain  of  Genesareth, 
where  once  stood  Magdala,  the  native  place  of  Mary 
Magdalen.  On  the  southern  side  is  a plain  several 
miles  in  extent,  and  on  the  northern  the  land  slopes 
gently  down  to  the  water’s  edge.  Four  miles  south 
of  Magdala  is  the  plain  where  the  ancient  city  of 
Tiberias,  built  by  Herod  Antipas,  is  situated.  The 
shores  of  this  renowned  sea  were  favorite  resorts  of 
our  Saviour,  and  the  birth-place  of  several  of  his  dis- 
ciples. The  cities  <>f  Capernaum,  Chorazin,  ana  Beth- 
saida,  the  scenes  of  so  many  hallowed  associations, 
are  no  longer  standing,  and  even  the  knowledge  of 
the  sites  they  occupied,  passed  from  the  memory  of 
men  more  than  a thousand  years  ago,  so  that  the 
prophecy  of  our  Lord,  as  regarded  their  future  fate, 
has  been  literally  fulfilled. 

The  waters  of  the  sea  of  Tiberias  are  clear  and 
sweet,  and  abound  with  many  excellent  varieties  of 
fish.  Those  of  which  we  partook  while  there,  taken 
by  out  dragoman  and  muleteers,  resembled  in  their 
form  and  general  appearance  those  represented  in  the 
inimitable  cartoon  by  Raphael  of  the  “ Miraculous 


SEA  OF  TIBERIAS. 


201 


Draught  of  Fishes.”  It  is  gratifying  to  know,  as  an 
evidence  of  the  care  observed  by  this  great  master, 
that  in  his  picture  he  has  truthfully  depicted  the 
very  fish  found  in  this  sea.  During  my  stay  here  I 
bathed  in  its  placid  water  and  walked  upon  its  ever- 
memorable  shores.  The  distance  in  a direct  line 
from  this  to  the  Dead  Sea,  is  sixty  miles ; but,  fol- 
lowing the  winding  course  of  the  Jordan,  it  is  up- 
wards of  two  hundred.  The  channel  of  the  river  is 
deeply  embedded  between  opposing  mountains,  run- 
ning nearly  parallel,  at  a distance  of  three  or  four 
miles  from  each  other,  and  which  in  some  instances, 
present  perpendicular  cliffs,  and  in  others,  precipitous 
banks,  rising  irregularly  as  they  recede  to  the  high- 
lands of  the  central  chain  of  Palestine.  The  bed  of 
the  river  varies  from  seven ty^ve  to  one  hundred  feet 
in  width. 

Although  nothing  is  said  in  ancient  annals  respect- 
ing the  city  of  Tiberias,  until  the  latter  part  of  the 
Jewish  history  ; yet  it  was  universally  believed  by 
the  Jews  themselves,  that  a fortified  city  existed  on 
the  same  spot,  in  the  remote  ages,  by  the  name  of 
Rak-kath,  being  the  city  referred  to  by  Joshua,  19 
chap.  25  verse. 

We  learn  from  Josephus  “ that  soon  after  the  fo un- 
iat ion  of  Tiberias  was  laid,  it  increased  rapidly  in 
splendour  and  prosperity,  and  that  it  became  at  last 
tlie^chief  city,  not  only  of  Galilee,  but  of  the  whole 
land  of  Israel.”  It  was  regarded  by  the  learned  men 
of  that  period  as  the  most  advantageous  situation 
which  they  could  choose  for  the  establishment  of 
schools  and  societies,  for  both  of  which  it  was  parti- 
cularly distinguished.  It  was  rendered  famous  by 
the  great  Sanhedrim,  and  it  is  conceded  by  the  best 
scholars  of  ancient  lore,  that  the  Jerusalem  Talmud 
was  compiled  at  this  place  by  one  of  its  inhabitants, 
named  Rabbi  Juda  II ak  Kadosh,  about  the  close  of 

9* 


202 


SEA  OF  TIBERIAS. 


the  second  century.  The  talmud  of  Babylon,  being 
commentaries,  etc,  by  succeeding  Rabbis,  was  col- 
lected by  Ben  Eliezer,  about  the  sixth  century.  These 
two  books  contain  the  doctrine  of  the  religion  and 
morality  of  the  Jews.  St.  Jerome,  one  of  the  early 
fathers  of  the  Christian  church,  was  so  well  satisfied 
that  it  was  the  most  learned  city  of  his  day,  that  he 
resided  there  for  some  time  in  order  to  obtain  a tho- 
rough knowledge  of  the  Hebrew  language.  It  was 
the  chief  city  in  the  district  under  the  command  of 
Josephus,  and  through  his  zeal  and  military  skill,  it 
Was  placed  in  a perfect  state  of  defense.  This  city 
retained  its  eminence  as  a place  of  learning  through 
the  entire  interval  between  the  decline  of  the  Roman 
power  and  the  victories  of  Omar. 

The  mineral  waters  of  Tiberiashave  long  been  re- 
cognised for  their  mecncinal  qualities.  They  were 
much  esteemed  and  frequented  in  former  times.  Pli- 
ny speaks  of  the  place  as  being  “ healthful  for  its 
warm  waters,”  and  Josephus  say6  that  they  were 
much  frequented  in  his  days.  These  baths  are  situa- 
ted two  or  three  miles  south  of  the  present  city  on 
the  sea  shore  ; but  the  ground  lying  between  them 
and  the  city  is  covered  with  fragments  of  columns 
and  foundations  of  buildings,  the  probability  is,  and 
indeed  the  fact  is  almost  incontrovertible,  that  the 
ancient  city  extended  to,  if  it  did  not  embrace  within 
it,  these  baths.  The  old  bath  house  is  in  a state  of 
decay,  but  just  above  it  is  !an  arched  reservoir,  in 
which  the  water  from  the  spring  is  first  collected  and 
allowed  to  cool  to  the  proper  temperature  for  the  use 
of  the  new  baths  erected  by  Ibrahim  Pasha.  The 
water,  when  flowing  from  the  spring,  is  of  the  tem- 
perature of  144  degrees  Fahrenheit,  and  is  altogether 
too  hot  to  allow  a person  to  place  his  hand  in  it  with 
any  comfort. 

From  an  elevated  position  near  the  bath  there  is  a 


SEA.  OF  TIBERIAS. 


203 


fine  prospect  of  the  northern  shores  of  the  sea,  where 
it  is  supposed  Capernaum  once  stood,  and  above  it 
are  seen  the  hills  of  Saphet,  and  still  further  in  the 
distance  the  snow-clad  summit  of  Mount  Herinon, 
glittering  in  the  rays  of  the  sun,  and  towering  above 
every  other  feature  of  the  landscape.  The  entrance 
of  the,  Jordan  from  this  point  is  also  plainly  discern- 
ible. 

Tiberias  is  the  only  ancient  city  remaining  on  the 
borders  of  these  waters,  and  even  the  greater  portion 
of  it  was  reduced  to  a heap  of  ruins  by  the  earthquake 
of  1837,  when  upwards  of  a thousand  of  its  inhabi- 
tants were  destroyed.  The  rocks  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the  town  are  of  limestone,  and  the  whole  region  is 
volcanic,  as  is  also  the  larger  part  of  Syria.  The  walls 
surrounding  the  city,  together  with  six  or  seven  of  its 
battlements,  are  still  standing,  but  in  a shattered  con- 
dition. 

We  encamped  within  the  northern  square  of  the 
town,  and  during  our  passage  through  its  streets  and 
lanes,  had  a perfect  view  of  the  small  tenements  of 
its  inhabitants,  which  are  built  on  the  ruins  of  the 
old  town.  It  is  melancholy  to  observe  the  wretched 
state  and  condition  to  which  its  citizens  are  now  re- 
duced. The  truth  is  the  lands  are  held  by  the  gov- 
ernment, the  people  have  no  interest  in  the  soil  they 
cultivate,  and  therefore  take  no  pains  to  improve  it. 
They  sleep  at  this  season  of  the  year  on  the  tops  of 
their  small  houses.  I have  often  witnessed  the  sight 
of  the  father  and  mother,  with  their  children  of  va- 
rious ages,  clustered  like  files  around  a dish  of  food 
placed  in  their  midst,  at  nightfall,  on  their  house-top, 
appeasing  their  appetites.  The  meal,  if  it  can  thus 
be  called,  being  finished,  the  family  would  then  lie 
down  in  a circle  for  the  night.  The  population  of 
Tiberias  numbers  about  two  thousand,  and  consists 
Ciiiefiy  of  Greeks  and  Jews. 


204 


SEA  OF  TIBERIAS. 


This  remarkable  sea,  limited  as  it  is  in  size,  was 
once  the  scene  of  a bloody  naval  battle,  which  occur- 
red soon  after  Vespasian  had  captured  the  city  of 
Torichoea,  which  was  situated  south  of  Tiberias  at,  the 
foot  of  the  mountains  on  the  west  side  of  the  sea. 
Now  there  is  not  a ship,  nor  vessel  upon  these  waters, 
but  then  it  upheld  two  hostile  fleets.  The  following 
account  of  the  engagement  between  these  vessels  is 
given  by  Josephus,  who  was  doubtless  an  eye  wit- 
ness of  the  same  : “The  inhabitants  of  Torichoea  had 
a great  many  ships  gotten  ready  upon  the  lake,  that 
in  case  they  were  beaten  at  land  by  the  Romans  they 
might  retire  to  them  ; accordingly  when  the  city  was 
taken,  they  sailed  as  far  as  they  possibly  could  from 
the  Romans.  Whereupon  Vespasian  commanded 
that  vessels  should  be  fitted  up  in  order  to  pursue 
them.  When  the  vessels  were  gotten  ready  Vespa- 
sian put  on  ship-board  as  many  of  his  forces  as  he 
thought  sufficient  to  be  too  hard  for  these  that  were 
upon  the  lake,  and  set  sail  after  them.  Now  those 
which  were  driven  into  the  Lake  could  neither  fly  to 
the  land,  where  all  was  in  their  enemies’  hand,  and  in 
war  against  them  ; nor  could  they  tight  upon  the 
level  sea,  for  their  ships  were  small  and  fitted  only 
for  piracy.  They  were  too  weak  to  tight  with  Vespa- 
sian’s vessels,  and  the  mariners,  that  were  in  them, 
were  so  few  that  they  were  afraid  to  come  near  the 
Romans,  who  attacked  them  in  great  numbers.  How- 
ever, as  they  sailed  round  about  the  vessels,  they 
threw  stones  at  the  Romans  when  they  were  a good 
ways  off,  or  came  closer  and  fought  them,  yet  did 
they  receive  the  greatest  harm  themselves  in  both 
cases.  As  for  the  stones  they  threw  at  the  Romans, 
they  only  made  a sound,  one  after  another,  for  they 
threw  them  against  such  as  were  in  their  armoui, 
while  the  Roman  darts  could  reach  the  Jews  them- 
selves ; and  when  they  ventured  to  come  near  the 


SEA  OF  TIBERIAS. 


205 


Homans  they  became  sufferers  themselves  before  they 
could  do  any  harm  to  the  others,  and  were  drowned, 
they  and  their  vessels  together.  As  for  those  that 
endeavored  to  come  to  an  actual  fight,  the  R->raans 
run  many  of  them  through  with  their  long  poles. 
Sometimes  the  Romans  leaped  into  their  ships  with 
swords  in  their  hands  and  slew  them  ; and  for  such 
as  were  drowning  in  the  sea,  if  they  lifted  their  heads 
above  the  water  they  were  either  killed  by  the  darts, 
or  caught  by  the  vessels.  But  of  the  desperate  case 
they  were  in,  they  attempted  to  swim  to  their  enemies, 
the  Romans  cut  off  either  their  heads  or  their  hands, 
and  indeed  they  were  destroyed  after  various  man- 
ners every  where,  till  the  rest  being  put  to  flight  were 
forced  to  get  upon  the  land,  while  the  vessels  encom- 
passed them  about  on  the  sea  ; but  as  many  of  those 
were  repulsed  when  they  were  getting  ashore,  they 
were  killed  by  the  darts  upon  the  Lake,  and  the  Ro- 
mans leaped  out  of  their  vessels,  and  discharged  a 
great  many  more  "Upon  the  land.  One  might  then 
see  the  Lake  all  bloody,  and  full  of  dead  bodies,  for 
not  one  of  them  escaped.  A very  sad  sight  there 
was  on  the  following  days  over  that  country;  for  the 
shores  were  full  of  shipwrecks  and  of  dead  bodies  all 
swollen,  and  as  the  dead  bodies  were  inflamed  by  the 
sun,  and  putrefied  they  corrupted  the  air,  insomuch 
that  their  misery  was  not  only  the  object  of  commis- 
eration to  the  Jews  but  to  those  that  hated  them, 
and  had  been  the  authors  of  that  misery.  The  number 
of  slain  was  six  thousand  five  hundred.” 

In  resuming  our  journey  after  a most  interesting 
visit  to  this  historical  sea,  we  ascended  the  mountains 
from  the  city  of  Tiberias,  by  a bridle  path  filled  with 
loose*  stones.  We  stopped  at  several  points  on  our 
way  up,  in  order  to  obtain  different  views  of  the  sea 
and  surrounding  country.  The  prospect  from  the 
summit  is  grand  and  full  of  interest.  The  sea  and 


206 


SEA  OF  TIBERIAS. 


town  of  Tiberias  were  in  full  view,  lying  at  least  one 
thousand  feet  beneath  us.  To  the  south-east  the  val- 
ley of  the  Jordan  is  distinctly  seen,  and  to  the  south- 
west Mount  Tabor  is  observable  rising  majestically 
before  the  sight. 

We  examined  on  our  route  from  the  Tiberias  to  the 
Mediterranean  Sea,  the  place  where  our  Saviour  led, 
with  two  fishes  and  five  loaves  of  bread,  the  five  thou- 
sand— a large  ring  fastened  to  a rock  marks  that  sa- 
cred spot.  We  also  passed  the  Mount  where  our 
Lord  delivered  his  serin m.  This  last  place  is  about 

equi-distant  between  Tiberias  and  the  site  of  Caperna- 
um. It  is  an  isolated  hill  of  less  than  fifty  feet  in 
height,  so  that  the  great  concourse  of  people  standing 
upon  it^  sides,  and  the  plain  around  it,  could  see  and 
hear  every  word  uttered  by  our  Saviour  on  that  mem- 
orable occasion,  without  difficulty.  We  likewise 
passed  on  our  way  over  the  field  where  the  celebrated 
battle  between  the  forces  of  Saladin  and  the  Crusa- 
ders was  fought,  in  the  year  1187’,  which  battle  de- 
cided the  fate  of  Jerusalem,  and  spread  terror  and  de- 
vastation over  the  whole  land.  On  this  occa-ion  the 
Christians  fought  most  valiantly,  and  the  Knights  of 
the  Temple,  and  St.  John,  performed  prodigies  of 
valor,  rallying  around  the  true  cross  until  the  last. 
Ivaymand  opened  a way  through  the  enemy  for  himself 
and  forces,  and  fled  to  Tripoli.  No  other  Christians 
escaped. 

Our  route  lay  over  an  extensive  plain  or  valley, 
north  of  the  valley  of  Esdraelon,  and  separated  from 
it  by  one  of  the  ranges  of  the  mountains  of  Galilee. 
Mo unf Tabor,  which  towers  above  them  all,  is  seen 
from  the  usual  travelled  route,  and  attracts  the  atten- 
tion and  admiration  of  the  tourist  at  every  step  he 
takes  over  this  great  plain.  This  valley  is  a part  of 
the  territory  alloted  to  Zebulon,  stad  is  situated  north 
of  Isacliar,  west  of  the  Jordan  and  Sea  of  Galilee,  and 


SEA  OF  TIBERIAS. 


207 


east  of  the  southern  portion  of  Asher.  Tiberias, 
Magdala,  Capernaum,  Cana,  and  Nazareth  are  all  lo- 
calities in  Zebulon  of  deep  interest.  This  plain  or  val- 
ley, which  has  its  beginning  in  the  hills  of  Safed,  is 
called  in  Joshua,  19th  chapter,  14th  and  27th  verses, 
Ziphth-ak-el : it  is  now  known  as  El  Buthrof,  and  lies 
at  least  thirty  miles  north  of  Samaria.  Many  modern 
travellers,  however,  call  it  Dothan,  and  locate  the 
spot  where  Joseph  was  sold  by  his  brethren  to  the 
Islnnaelites  at  the  Khan  Jubb  Yusuf,  south-east  of 
Satia,  where  there  is,  to  this  day,  a pit.  But  the 
learned  Eusebius,  and  Jerome,  who  travelled  over 
this  country  centuries  ago,  place  it,  as  Dr.  Robertson 
says,  ‘‘rightly,”  at  twelve  miles  north  of  the  city  of 
Sti maria,  and  just  in  that  situation  the  name  of  Dothan 
si  ill  exists  in  the  mouths  of  the  common  people.  It 
is  not  very  probable  that  Joseph’s  brethren  would 
have  removed  their  flocks  so  far  from  Shechem,  for  it 
is  written  in  Genesis,  37th  chapter,  that  Jacob  sent 
Joseph  to  Sliechemiu  pursuit  of  his  brethren.  When 
a certain  man  found  him  wandering  in  the  fields;  and 
the  man  asked  him,  saying,  What  seekest  thou?  and 
he  said,  To  seek  my  brethren  ; tell  me,  I pray  thee, 
where  they  feed  their  flocks.  And  the  man  said, 
They  are  parted  hence  ; for  I heard  them  say,  Let  us 
go  to  Dothan.  And  Joseph  went  after  his  brethren, 
and  found  them  in  Dothan. 

Notwithstanding  the  changes  which  have  taken 
p.ace  from  time  to  time  in  the  names  of  places  in  the 
Hoiy  Land,  yet  it  seems  to  me  to  be  quite  clear  that 
at  that  day  this  great  plain  was  known  by  the  name 
of  Jeptliah  el ; and  not  by  that  of  Dothan.  Besides, 
Joseph  was  sold  to  the  Islmiaelites,  who  were  on  their 
way  from  Gilead  to  Egypt,  as  we  read  in  Genesis 
xxxvii.  25.  The  most  direct  route  from  that  place, 
and  the  one  they  would  naturally  have  pursued,  was 
by  the  great  caravan  route  to  Egypt,  by  the  way  of 


208 


8EA  OF  TIBERIAS. 


Bamleh,  whicli  led  through  Dothan,  named  by  Euse- 
bius, and  Jerome,  and  also  by  Dr.  Bobertson,  twelve 
miles  from  Samaria,  and  not  by  the  northern  route, 
for  that  would  have  taken  them  in  a circuit,  at  least 
fifty  miles  out  of  their  direct  road. 

After  leaving  the  Sea  of  Tiberias,  we  continued  our 
route  toward  the  Mediterranean,  passing  through  a 
succession  of  broad  valleys,  of  many  miles  in  extent, 
and  running  in  a westerly  direction.  In  one  of  the 
valleys  heretofore  mentioned,  and  within  two  miles 
of  Cana,  a spot  is  pointed  out  as  being  the  field  where 
Jesus  went  on  the  Sabbath  day  through  the  coi  n, 
and  his  disciples  were  an  hungered,  and  began  to 
pluck  the  ears  of  corn  and  to  eat  ” — which  occasion 
gave  rise  to  the  memorable  reply  of  our  Saviour  to 
tiie  Pharisees. 

After  leaving  this  vale  we  followed  the  river,  or 
brook,  el  Maleic , upon  the  banks  of  which  were  sev- 
eral small  grist-mills,  to  its  confluence  with  the  Kison, 
so  fatal  to  the  army  of  Sisera.  “ They  fought  from 
heaven,  the  stars  in  their  course  fought  against  Sisera, 
the  river  Kison  swept  them  awav.  (Judges  : chap,  v., 
10-25.) 

It  was  also  on  its  banks,  in  the  year  906  b.  c.,  that 
the  false  prophets  of  Baal  were  destroyed  by  Elijah. 
The  sacred  account  of  which  reads  : “ And  Elijah  said 
unto  them,  take  the  prophets  of  Baal : let  not  one  of 
them  escape  ; and  they  took  them,  and  Elijah  brought 
them  down  to  the  brook  Kison  and  slew  them  there.” 
(1  Kings:  chap,  xviii.,  40.) 

We  followed  the  Kison  to  its  confluence  with  the 
Mediterranean,  near  the  village  of  Haifa.  The  dis-  * 
tance  from  the  Sea  of  Galilee  to  the  Mediterranean, 
by  the  route  we  travelled,  is  fifty  miles,  which  we 
accomplished  with  ease  in  two  days. 


TOWN  OF  ACRE. 


209 


CHAPTER  XLIY. 

TOWN  OF  ACRE. 


Mount  Carmel— Convent— Acre— Its  Early  Days— Saladin’s  Army— Crusa* 
ders—Christian  Knights— Bonaparte— Napier— Situation  of  the  City— Its 
Cotton  Trade— Jordan— Route  to  Jerusalem. 


We  passed  a day  most  agreeably  at  the  convent  of 
Elias,  on  Mount  Carmel,  where  the  air  is  always  cool 
and  refreshing.  We  were  kindly  and  hospitably  en- 
tertained by  the  good  monks,  who  are  ever  ready  to 
welcome  strangers,  without  regard  to  race  or  creed. 
This  noble  convent  consists  of  a square  block  of  build- 
ings, covering  a number  of  acres,  and  is  several  stories 
in  height.  It  is  furnished  in  good  taste.  The  chapel 
is  richly  ornamented,  and  most  of  the  apartments  are 
adorned  with  fine  engravings.  There  is  also  a large 
library,  well  stored  with  choice  books. 

Our  party  reached  Acre,  from  the  interior  of  Gali- 
lee, in  safety  ; and,  no'withstanding  I have  been  deep- 
ly interested  in  every  step  I have  taken  in  the  Holy 
Land,  yet  I must  confess  I feel  rejoiced  to  stand  once 
more  upon  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean.  This  old 
town  of  Acre,  or  Ptolemais,  now  in  ruins,  once  so  dis- 
tinguished for  its  beauty  and  commerce,  derives  its 
two  fold  appellation,  it  is  said,  from  the  circumstance 
that  it  was  founded  by  twin  brothers,  Aeon  and  Ptole- 
mais, and  its  present  name  St.  Jean  d1  Acre,  was  ac- 
quired from  its  having  become  the  seat  of  the  Knights 
of  St.  John,  after  Jerusalem  had  been  taken  hy  Saladin. 
In  early  times  it  was  one  of  the  chief  cities  of  the 
Phoenicians. 

Here  that  powerful  and  polished  nation  flourished 


210 


TOWN  OF  ACRE. 


for  centuries.  Asher,  to  whom  it  was  afterward 
assigned  by  Joshua,  “ did  not  drive  out  the  inhabitants 
of  Aeho  ; but  the  Asherites  dwelt  among  the  Canaan- 
ites,  the  inhabitants  of  the  land.”  (Judges  i.  31.)  In 
a.  p.  1104,  it  was  captured  from  the  Saracens  by 
Baldwin,  the  first  Christian  king  of  Jerusalem,  and  it 
was  afterwards  held  by  the  Crusaders,  at  different 
times,  as  their  chief  commercial  town,  and  gathering 
place  of  the  Pilgrims  for  nearly  two  centuries:  during 
which  time  its  port  was  crowded  by  both  French  and 
Italian  fleets,  and  hence  it  became  more  closely  con- 
nected with  Europe  than  any  other  of  the  Syrian 
cities. 

In  the  year  1187,  soon  after  the  decisive  victory 
over  the  Christians  at  Tiberias,  it  surrendered  to 
Saladinjf  army  without  a struggle;  but  it  was  not  des- 
tined to  remain  long  in  his  possession,  for  within  the 
short  period  ot*  five  years  thereafter,  King  Richard, 
the  lion-hearted,  of  England,  and  Philip  of  France  at 
die  head  of  the  German  troops,  with  the  aid  of  a well- 
appointed  naval  force,  recaptured  it,  after  a siege  of 
three  years,  in  which  the  Crusaders  shed  more  blood 
than  ought  to  have  sufficed  for  the  conquest  of  the 
whole  of  Asia.  There  were  upwards  of  one  hundred 
skirmishes  and  nine  fiercely  contested  battles  around 
and  before  its  walls.  Several  flourishing  armies  were 
nearly  annihilated  during  this  siege  ; but  their  place 
was  constantly  supplied  with  fresh  troops  from  the 
west.  The^  loss  in  kided  exceeded  three  hundred 
thousand.  'The  Crusaders  after  the  victory,  retained 
the  possession  of  the  city  until  the  year  1291,  when 
the  Saracens  again  besieged  it  with  an  army  of  over 
three  hundred  thousand  men. 

The  armies  fought  during  the  siege  with  fury,  and 
the  Christians,  headed  by  the  Knights  of  St.  John 
and  Knights  Templars,  bravely  defended  every  inch 
of  ground.  There  was  not  a street  that  did  not  be- 


TOWN  OF  ACEE. 


211 


come  a scene  of  carnage.  A battle  was  fought  for 
every  place,  and  the  Saracens,  on  entering  the  city, 
literally  walked  over  the  dead  as  upon  a bridge. 
This  sanguinary  struggle  ended  in  the  total  overthrow 
of  the  Crusaders,  and  their  expulsion  from  the  Holy 
Land  forever — all  those  who  could  not  effect  their 
escape  were  either  murdered  or  imprisoned  for  life. 

The  history  of  the  city  for  centuries  thereafter,  and 
particularly  after  it  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Turks, 
is  involved  in  obscurity. 

In  the  year  seventeen  hundred  and  ninety-nine5 
while  France  was  involved  in  war  with  Egypt  and 
Syria,  it  was  besieged  for  sixty-one  days  by  the 
French  troops,  under  the  command  of  Bonaparte, 
who  was  repulsed  by  the  Syrians,  with  the  assistance 
ot  the  British  commander,  with  great  loss. 

In  the  year  eighteen  hundred  and  forty,  the  British 
fleet,  under  the  command  of  Commodore  Napier,  in 
order  to  restore  the  Ottoman  power  in  Palestine 
against  the  revolt  of  the  Pasha  of  Egypt,  from  the 
dominion  of  the  grand  seigneur,  bombarded  the  town 
and  left  ijt  in  ruins,  from  which  state  it  has  never  re- 
covered. 

The  bloody  and  thrilling  history  of  this  ill-fated 
city  tills  many  volumes.  It  has  been,  at  various 
times,  seized  by  many  a rude  hand,  and  its  inhabit- 
ants carried  into  foreign  lands  and  enslaved  by  its 
conquerors.  The  ashes  of  many  of  the  warriors  and 
nobility  of  Europe,  who  took  an  active  part  in  the  re- 
ligious wars  of  the  Crusaders,  now  mingle  with  the 
dust  of  the  ancient  city. 

The  place  itself  is  pleasantly  situated  on  a point  of 
land  projecting  into  the  sea,  with  a beautiful  bay  on 
the  south  side,  commencing  at  the  village  of  Haifa, 
at  the  base  of  Mount  Carmel,  and  curving  gracefully 
around  from  that  place  to  its  port.  It  is  surrounded 
on  the  land  side  by  one  of  the  most  fertile  plains  iu 


212 


TOWN  OF  ACRE. 


the  country,  extending  in  length  by  the  sea  shore 
twenty-two  miles,  and  varying  in  widtli  from  one  to 
fifteen.  The  view  of  the  distant  mountains  which 
bound  this  great  plain  on  its  north,  east  and  south 
sides,  and  the  numerous  broken  arches  of  its  ancient 
aqueduct,  still  standing,  with  several  artilicial  mounds 
rising  at  different  points  on  the  plain,  and  within  a 
short  distance  of  the  city,  add  greatly  to  the  beauty 
of  its  much  admired  scenery.  The  rugged  promon- 
tory of  Kasen-Naaket  dropping  abruptly  into  the  sea 
at  the  north — the  low  running  hills  of  Galilee  lying 
at  the  east,  and  the  bold  bluff  of  Mount  Carmel  jut- 
ting majestically  into  the  Mediterranean  on  the  south 
— add  greatly  to  the  charm  of  the  picture. 

Mount  Carmel,  so  much  distinguished  for  its  bibli- 
cal associations,  rises  eighteen  hundred  feet  in  height, 
almost  perpendicularly  from  the  shore,  leaving  only  a 
narrow  pathway  around  its  base.  This  noble  head- 
land is  the  first  that  greets  the  wearied  mariner  with 
a cheerful  welcome,  on  his  return  “ to  the  haven 
■where  he  would  be and  it  is  at  this  day  as  much 
his  admiration  as  of  old  it  was  that  of  the  inspired 
bard. 

The  city  of  Acre  formerly  enjoyed  no  inconsidera- 
ble degree  of  mercantile  activity,  and  it  is  even  now 
distinguished  as  the  chief  port  of  the  Syrian  cotton 
trade;  but,  judging  from  what  came  under  my  own 
observation  while  there,  1 should  say  that  its  foreign 
trade  cannot  be  very  extensive,  for  there  were  not 
then  more  than  twenty  vessels  of  all  classes  in  its 
harbor. 

Its  natural  advantages,  however,  exceed  most  of  the 
other  cities  in  Syria,  in  consequence  of  its  open  and 
direct  communication  with  the  river  Jordan,  by  a 
narrow  vale  running  along  the  base  of  Mount  Car- 
mel, and  connecting  the  valley  of  Acre  with  the  plain 
of  Esdraelon. 


ROUTE  TO  TYRE. 


213 


I would  remark,  in  conclusion,  that  the  central  and 
usually  travelled  road  from  Acre  to  Jerusalem,  by 
the  way  of  Shechem,  follows  this  vale  to  the  plain  of 
Esdraelon,  and  thence  to  Gilboa — as  also  do  the  two 
eastern  routes  by  the  way  of  the  Jordan  and  Jericho, 
one  of  the  roads  running  along  the  eastern,  and  the 
other  on  the  western  side  of  the  Jordan.  The  two 
western  routes  to  Jerusalem  follow  the  sea-shore  to 
Mount  Carmel,  from  whence  one  of  them  still  contin- 
ues along  the  coast  to  Coesaria  and  Joppa,  and  the 
other  pursues  the  eastern  boundary  of  the  vallej7  of 
Sharon,  by  the  way  of  Lydda.  The  distance  to  the 
h«>ly  city  by  these  several  routes  varies  from  one  hun- 
dred to  one  hundred  and  forty  miles. 


CHAPTER  XLY 

ROUTE  TO  TYRE. 

St.  Jean  d’Acre — Route  to  Tyre — Bridle-Path — Syrian  Ladder — Caverns  in  the 
Rock — The  Trojan  War. 


We  left  St.  Jean  d’Acre  late  in  the  afternoon  of  a 
day  in  June  for  Tyre,  and,  as  the  distance  between 
the  two  cities  is  only  thirty-five  miles,  it  may  be 
reached  in  a day  ; but  in  order  to  render  the  journey 
less  fatiguing,  we  only  travelled  about  twelve  miles 
during  the  afternoon,  and  encamped  for  the  night  at 
the  base  of  the  mountain,  which  bounds  the  plain  of 
Acre  on  the  north.  We  pursued  the  line  of  the  an- 
cient paved  way  over  the  plain,  numerous  traces  of 
which  are  still  visible  on  the  route  ; but  the  road  has 
not  been  used  for  wheeled  carriages  for  centuries 
past,  so  that  the  present  inhabitants,  who  have,  no 
doubt,  just  cause  of  c unplaint  against  the  govern- 


214 


ROUTE  TO  TVRE. 


merit  on  account  of  the  exorbitant  taxes  levied  upon 
them,  cnn  find  no  fault  with  their  road  assessments, 
for,  judging  from  what  I could  see,  their  highways 
are  never  repaired.  As  the  interior  trade  of  the 
country  is  carried  on  here,  as  it  is  everv  where  else 
in  the  east,  by  caravans,  expensive  roads  are  unne- 
cessary, and  their  construction  has  long  since  been 
abandoned.  Our  route  lay  at  no  great  distance  from 
the  coast,  and  we  were  either  within  sight  of  the  sea 
during  the  whole  afrernoon,  or  within  hearing  of  the 
roar  of  its  mighty  surges.  On  the  south  side  of  the 
travelled  way,  for  some  extent,  are  to  be  seen  hun- 
dreds of  arches,  which  support  the  ancient  aqueduct 
of  Acre.  Upon  the  western  declivities  of  the  moun- 
tains of  Galilee  several  rural  villages  and  ancient 
ruins  lie  in  full  view,  presenting  to  the  tourist  a pic- 
turesque and  pleasing  scene. 

We  resumed  our  journey  on  the  following  morn- 
ing, and  passed  over  the  rugged  cliff  of  Mount  Rasen 
"Naahat,  and  numerous  other  mountain  ridges,  follow- 
ing each  other  in  succession,  and  jutting  out  into  the 
sea.  The  bridle-path  over  them  was  no  better  than 
those  we  had  met  on  our  journey  through  Judea  and 
Samaria,  and  one  is  at  a loss  to  conceive  how  the  vast 
armies  of  antiquity  ever  made  their  way  across  them 
with  their  heavy  engines  of  war.  The  probability  is, 
indeed,  that  their  arms,  provisions,  and  munitions  of 
war,  with  their  sick  and  disabled  troops,  were  con- 
veyed along  the  sea-coast  by  their  fleets.  We  know 
that  Alexander  the  Great  was  thus  attended,  and 
such  must  have  been  the  case  with  the  warriors  be- 
fore his  day,  when  moving  down  the  coast  of  Asia 
Minor  and  Syria,  as  far,  at  least,  as  the  plains  of  Acre. 
From  thence  no.  difficulty  exists,  in  the  way  of  march- 
ing an  army  over  the  plains  of  Acre  and  Sharon,  and 
thence  through  the  desert  of  the  Nile. 

The  mountain  ridges  between  Acre  and  Tyre  are 


ROUTE  TO  TYRE. 


215 


fifteen  miles  in  extent,  over  which  we  travelled  in 
one  day,  ending  with  the  Tyrian  Ladder — as  it  is  call- 
ed— one  of  the  most  difficult  and  dangerous  passes  on 
the  whole  route.  It  appeared  to  me,  on  the  first  view 
I obtained  of  it,  like  a narrow  seam,  or  crack,  in  the 
side  of  the  mouutain,  not  wide  enough  to  admit  of  a 
person’s  passing  through  it  on  foot ; but  as  we  ap- 
proached it  nearer,  I found  it  to  be  a dug-way,  cut 
into  the  side  of  a perpendicular  cliff  through  solid 
rock,  and  gradually  rising  to  a point  at  least  three 
hundred  feet  above  the  sea.  Numerous  large  caverns 
are  worn  into  the  rock  beneath  the  bed  of  the  road, 
by  the  ceaseless  dashings  of  the  surge  for  ages  against 
it,  making  the  road  almost  a continuous  arched  way 
for  several  miles.  It  is  fearful  to  look  upon,  and 
were  it  not  that  the  road  is  sunk  into  the  rock,  so  as 
to  leave  a protecting  wall  on  the  outer  side,  few 
persons  would  be  found  possessing  nerve  sufficient  to 
pass  over  it  on  foot,  much  less  on  horseback  as  we  did. 

Before  descending  the  hill,  we  halted  for  some 
time  at  its  northern  terminus,  where  we  gazed  for  the 
first  time  upon  Tyre,  with  its  beautiful  bay  on  the 
south  side.  Upon  the  wfide  beach  the  ancient  mari- 
ners of  Tyre,  before  harbors  were  constructed,  drew 
their  coasting  vessels,  in  order  to  protect  them  from 
injury  agaipst  the  fierce  tempests  of  this  boisterous 
sea.  And  this  was  the  usual  practice  of  the  Phoeni- 
cians, as  well  as  that  of  all  the  other  maritime  nations 
at  that  period.  The  mighty  fleet  of  the  Grecians  was 
thus  secured  on  the  Phrygian  shores  during  the  ten 
years  of  the  Trojan  war,  as  appears  from  the  follow- 
ing lines  by  Homer,  respecting  Ulysses’  return  after 
delivering  Chryseis  to  her  father.  I give  them  in 
Pope’s  translation  : — 

“ Till  now  the  Grecian  camp  appeared  in  view, 

Far  on  the  beach  they  haul  their  bark  to  land  ; 

(The  crooked  keel  divides  the  yellow  sand  ;) 

Then  part,  where  stretched  along  the  winding  bay 
The  ships  and  tents  in  mingled  prospect  lay.” 


CHAPTER  XL VI. 


TYRE. 


View  of  Tyre— Cadmus— Dido -Strabo  - Its  Situation— Its  Founding  - Hero- 
dotus—The  Daughter  of  Sidon  Memorable  Siege— Its  Downfall— Ras  el 
Ain— King  Hiram— Phoenicia. 


Thic  view  of  the  city  of  Tyre  and  the  surrounding 
country,  from  the  elevated  position  we  occupied,  is 
surpassingly  beautiful.  The  plain  of  Tyre  is  not  so 
large  as  that  of  Acre;  but  the  site  of  the  old  town, 
which  was  confined  to  the  main-iand,  is  admirably 
calculated  for  a large  city,  since  there  are  no  obsta- 
cles in  the  way  of  its  extension  either  along  the  sea- 
shore or  into  the  interior.  After  having  enjoyed  this 
magnificent  view  for  some  time,  we  descended  the 
hill,  and  pursued  our  journey  along  the  coast,  until 
we  arrived  at  this  once  mighty  city.  The  gates  of  the 
town  being  open,  we  passed  through  its  narrow 
streets,  followed  by  a large  number  of  its  curious  cit- 
izens, who  seemed  much  pleased  with  our  cavalcade. 
We  encamped  in  a field,  under  cultivation,  fronting 
the  sea,  and  within  the  walls  of  the  city.  On  this 
field  once  stood  the  richest  and  fairest  portion  of  this 
great  emporium.  Tiiis  city  has  for  centuries  pjist 
occupied  so  much  space  in  the  records  of  ancient  and 
modern  history,  that,  on  this  account  alone,  it  is  one 
of  the  most  desirable  places  in  the  Old  World  for  a 
traveller  to  visit.  It  was  from  this  town  that  Cadmus, 
fifteen  hundred  years  before  Christ,  led  his  colony  to 
Greece.  He  carried  with  him  an  alphabet,  and  intro- 
duced into  that  country  the  first  ideas  of  civilization. 
From  this  place,  too,  Dido,  nine  hundred  years  be- 
fore Christ,  conducted  a colony  to  Carthage,  and 


TYRE. 


217 


founded  that  once  great  city.  Tliis  was  long  before 
Rome  was  built.  It  was  from  this  nation  that  most 
of  the  islands  in  the  Mediterranean  Sea  were  first 
peopled,  as  were  Spain,  Portugal,  and  Ireland.  Strabo, 
the  historian,  represents  Tyre  as  having  planted  five 
hundred  cities  along  the  shores  of  the  Mediterranean 
and  the  Atlantic  coasts. 

Its  situation  is  very  beautiful.  It  stands  now  on  a 
point  of  land,  projecting  into  the  sea,  which,  at  this 
day,  has  the  appearance  of  being  the  work  of  nature, 
but  was  formed  by  Alexander  the  Great  with  the 
ruins  of  the  old  town,  at  the  time  the  city  was  cap- 
tured by  him  after  seven  months’  siege.  Here,  and 
everywhere  on  the  land  side,  as  well  as  on  the  sea- 
shore, are  to  be  seen  broken  columns,  of  the  finest 
marble,  furnishing  the  most  satisfactory  evidence  of 
its  former  graudeur. 

The  city  still  retains  its  original  name,  while  the 
numerous  colonies  and  towns  it  founded  have  disap- 
peared, and  no  one  can  point  out,  at  this  day,  with 
any  degree  of  certainty,  their  boundaries  or  sites. 
The  traditionary  account  of  its  antiquity,  is,  that  its 
foundation  was  laid  by  Tyrus,  the  seventh  sou  of  Ja- 
piiet,  within  a few  years  after  the  Deluge.  Herodo- 
tus, the  historian,  who  visited  it  in  person  upward  of 
four  hundred  years  before  Christ,  says  : “ Prom  my 
very  great  desire  to  obtain  information  respecting 
Hercules,  I made  a voyage  to  Tyre,  where  is  a tem- 
ple of  Hercules,  held  in  great  veneration.  Among 
the  various  offerings,  I saw  two  pillars — one  was  of 
the  finest  gold,  the  other  of  emerald  of  extraordinary 
splendor.  I asked  the  priests  how  long  the  temple 
had  been  erected,  but  found  they  differed  from  the 
Greeks.  This  editice,  as  they  affirmed,  had  been 
standing  since  the  first  building  of  the  city,  twenty- 
three  hundred  years  ago.” 

The  prophet  Isaiah,  eight  hundred  years  before 


218 


TYRE. 


Christ,  called  it  the  daughter  of  Sidon.  And  Joshua, 
when  he  divided  the  land  among  the  children  of 
Israel,  in  the  year  1540  b.  c.,  spoke  of  it  as  “ the 
strong  city.”  Consequently,  its  foundation  must 
have  been  laid  a long  while  before  his  day,  and 
it  was  co-existent  with  (if  not  of  an  age  before)  Baby- 
lon. Besides,  all  accounts  agree  in  ascribing  the 
origin  of  navigation  to  its  inhabitants,  and  of  its  be- 
ing the  earliest  and  greatest  commercial  city  of  anti- 
quity', alike  distinguished  for  its  commerce,  its  manu- 
factures, its  skill  in  the  arts  and  sciences,  and  its 
immense  wealth.  For  centuries  it  enjoyed  the  trade 
of  the  then  known  world,  and  by  it  was  raised  to  the 
sovereignty  of  the  seas.  Her  merchants  were  rich 
and  powerful  princes,  “ who  had  heaped  up  silver  as 
dust,  and  line  gold  as  the  mire  of  the  city.” 

The  memorable  siege  which  this  city  successfully 
sustained  for  five  years  against  the  well  disciplined 
forces  of  the  powerful  Assyrian  nation,  in  the  year 
'719  b.  o.,  shows  the  strength  of  its  position  and  its 
inexhaustible  resources  at  that  day.  In  572  b.  c., 
when  it  was  conquered  by  the  Babylonians,  its  noble 
defence  for  a period  of  upward  of  thirteen  years,  is 
without  a parallel  either  in  ancient  or  modern  history, 
so  far  as  regards  the  length  of  the  seige,  or  the  bra- 
very and  obstinacy  with  which  it  was  resisted  by  the 
Tyrians,  who,  without  surrendering,  finally  retired, 
with  most  of  their  effects,  to  the  island,  leaving  the 
enemy  in  possession  of  their  town  in  ruins. 

The  downfall  and  permanent  destruction  of  this 
renowned  city,  remarkably  exemplifies  the  fulfilment 
of  the  prophecy  in  a greater  degree  than  the  annals 
of  the  world  exhibit — for  the  only  vestiges  of  the  old 
town  remaining  are  a small  portion  of  the  wall  by  the 
sea-shore,  and  a part  of  its  aqueduct.  1 give  what 
Ezekiel,  in  the  twenty-sixth  chapter  and  fourth  verse, 
says  respecting  it:  u And  they  shall  destroy  the  walls 


TYRE. 


219 


of  Tyrus,  and  break  down  her  towers : I will  also 
scrape  her  dust  from  her , and  make  her  like  the  top 
of  the  rock” 

Such  was,  indeed,  its  fate  ; for  Alexander  the  Great 
used  the  materials  of  the  old  town  to  build  the  moles, 
in  order  to  connect  the  island  with  the  main-land, 
and  in  doing  so,  literally  scraped  the  site  of  the  old 
city  of  everything  but  its  rocks. 

All  that  remains  of  its  ancient  aqueduct,  -called  at 
this  day  Ras  el  Ain , is  situated  at  the  extreme 
southern  limits  of  the  site  of  the  old  town,  five  miles 
from  the  present  city.  The  water,  which  still  flows 
from  its  several  reservoirs,  is  now  used  to  drive  three 
grist-mills,  standing  near  the  sea-shore.  The  founda- 
tion of  the  present  city  differs  but  little  from  the  old 
town,  for  King  Hiram,  in  his  time,  built  a causeway 
to  thd* temple,  which  stood  on  the  island,  in  order  to 
connect  it  with  the  city.  This  proves  that  it  formed 
a part  of  the  city  upward  of  one  thousand  years  before 
Christ.  It  was,  however,  greatly  enlarged  at  the  pe- 
riod of  the  destruction  of  old  Tyre.  Its  ramparts  and 
walls  were  reconstructed,  and  rendered,  as  its  inhab- 
itants believed,  impregnable,  until  it  was  sacked  by 
Alexander  the  Great,  when  eight  thousand  of  its  citi- 
zens were  crucified  on  the  beach,  and  thirty  thousand 
sold  into  bondage,  for  no  other  reason  than  their  no- 
ble defence  of  the  city. 

The  only  ancient  structure  remaining  in  the  pres- 
ent Tyre,  is  the  walls,  without  a roof,  of  the  old  church 
which  Eusebius  describes  in  his  narrative.  It  was 
built  of  hewn  stone,  both  within  and  without,  and 
was,  no  doubt,  the  first  Christian  church  erected  in 
Phoenicia.  The  commerce  of  the  city,  after  the  lapse 
of  several  centuries,  and  particularly  about  the  time 
it  was  captured  by  the  Crusaders,  somewhat  revived ; 
but  its  trade  has  been  declining  ever  since,  and  its 
once  capacious  harbor,  protected  by  two  huge  piers, 


220 


JOURNEY  TO  SIDON. 


extending  some  distance  into  the  sea,  is  now  tilled  up 
with  rubbish  and  rendered  difficult  of  access.  I 
counted  but  twelve  vessels  in  all  within  its  limits. 
The  hundreds  of  craft  which  in  ancient  times  had 
there  been  safely  havened,  had  disappeared  with  the 
city’s  old  renown  and  grandeur.  Its  population  has 
declined  with  its  commerce,  and  it  now  contains  less 
than  five  thousand  souls,  nor  is  there  any  prospect  of 
an  increase  under  the  existing  feeble  government. 
Into  this  lamentable  condition  has  this  famous  city, 
once  the  queen  of  the  seas,  become  reduced.  Her 
robes  trail  in  the  dust — her  crown  has  fallen  from 
her  brow. 


CHAPTER  XL  VII. 

JOURNEY  TO  SIDON. 

Mohammedan  Ladies — Leontes,  the  River  of  Waters — Along  the  Sea-Shore— 
Sarepta— Sojourn  at  a Khan — Verifying  an  Old  Adage— Cattle  of  the  Coun- 
try—Price  of  Produce— Goats  vs.  Cows— Plain  of  Sidon— Private  Gardens 
— Narrow  Streets— Slippers — Adieu  to  the  Ladies. 

Having  devoted  all  the  time  we  had  to  spare  to 
examining  the  ruins  of  Tyre,  and  its  surroundings,  we 
resumed  our  journey  in  companv  with  a party  of 
Tyrians,  among  which  were  two  Mohammedan  ladies, 
mounted  on  fine  Arabian  horses,  the  saddles  of  which 
were  covered  with  cushions,  so  as  to  enhble  them  to 
ride  at  ease,  after  the  fashion  of  our  sex.  Their  feet 
were  not,  however,  sustained  by  the  stirrups,  but 
hung  loosely  by  the  horses’  sides,  displaying  to  advan- 
tage their  dainty  red  slippers,  richly  embroidered 
with  silk  and  gold.  Their  faces,  as  is  the  custom  of 
the  country,  were  veiled  with  gauze  ; but,  as  they 
were  obliged  to  remove  them  now  and  then,  to  ena- 
ble them  to  guide  their  spirited  and  well-groomed 


JOURNEY  TO  SIDON. 


221 


horses,  we  were  on  such  occasion  favored  with  a 
glance  from  their  bright  and  sparkling  eyes. 

Their  courteous,  gracious,  and  gentle  manners; 
their  refinement  and  noble  bearing — gave  assurance 
of*  their  pure  lineage,  and  convinced  us  that  they  be- 
longed to  the  elite  of  the  land.  Their  presence  con- 
tributed greatly  to  our  enjoyment,  on  our  journey  to 
Sidon. 

Our  route,  for  the  distance  of  five  miles,  was  over 
the  plain  of  Tyre,  which  extends  on  the  north  to  the 
Leontes,  the  river  of  waters,  as  it  is  called,  and  which 
we  crossed  on  a stone  bridge  of  several  arches,  built 
centuries  ago,  and  still  in  good  condition.  Here  we 
halted,  and  the  ladies  availed  themselves  of  the  op- 
portunity thus  presented,  to  gather  the  choice  fiowers 
which  grow  by  the  borders  of  the  stream.  This  fine 
sheet  of  water  takes  its  rise  in  Baal  beck,  and  I fully 
expected  to  find  an  ancient  road  extending  along  its 
banks,  to  the  far  east,  by  the  way  of  Damascus ; but 
no  highway  was  ever  built  there,  owing,  doubtless,  to 
the  difficulty  of  constructing  one  across  the  Lebanon 
Mountains,  the  only  course  it  could  follow.  The 
usual  route,  from  Tyre  to  Damascus  and  the  east, 
passes  over  these  mountains  several  miles  south  of 
the  river. 

On  leaving  the  Leontes  we  travelled  near  the  sea- 
shore for  eight  or  ten  miles,  and,  for  a part  of  the 
way,  along  the  beach,  sometimes  passing  through  the 
waves  as  they  rolled  upon  the  shore.  This  was  par- 
ticularly the  case  as  we  rode  opposite  to  the  ancient 
city  of  Sarepta,  formerly  called  Zarephath.  This  town 
is  remarkable  for  its  connection  with  the  history  of 
Elijah,  the  prophet,  as  recorded  in  the  First  Book  of 
Kings,  the  seventeenth  chapter.  The  modbrn  city  is 
situated  on  a mountain  ridge,  fronting  the  Mediterra- 
nean. It  was  formerly  a place  of  considerable  impor- 
tance, but  now  consists  of  a few  poor  houses  in  a very 


222 


JOURNEY  TO  SIDON. 


dilapidated  condition.  The  ruins  of  the  old  town  line 
the  shore  for  a long  distance,  and  its  foundations  have 
lately  been  dug  up  and  carried  to  Beirout,  to  be  em- 
ployed in  the  construction  of  modern  edifices.  Tra- 
dition points  out  the  spot  where  the  prophet  Elijah  is 
said  to  have  met  the  poor  woman  gathering  sticks. 

We  halted  four  miles  from  Sarepta,  for  our  lunch, 
at  a khan,  or  house  of  refreshment,  standing  at  no 
great  distance  from  the  sea-shore,  and  near  a fountain 
of  pure  water.  Here  coffee  was  served,  in  small  cups, 
to  all  who  desired  it.  The  building  itself  is  one  story 
high,  with  two  rooms,  and  an  open  space  between 
them  without  a floor;  but  all  are  covered  by  the  same 
roof.  The  rooms  contained  no  furniture  of  any  kind, 
and  we  were  obliged  to  adopt,  on  this  occasion,  the 
plan  recommended  in  the  old  adage,  viz.  : “In  Crete 
act  as  a Cretan  or,  as  we  say,  “ At  Rome  do  as  the 
Romans  do.5'  In  conforming  to  this,  we  seated  our- 
selves, in  the  Oriental  fashion,  on  cushions  which  our 
dragoman  spread  on  the  floor  for  our  use. 

We  encountered,  at  this  place,  large  droves  of 
sheep,  goats,  and  cattle,  of  the  finest  breeds  of  the 
country,  which  were  being  driven  from  the  interior 
to  the  sea-shore  to  be  watered.  The  shepherds  and 
herdsmen  who  accompanied  them  were  a quiet  and 
orderly  set  of  men,  and  answered  our  numerous  ques- 
tions about  their  cattle,  their  value,  and  the  prices  of 
the  commodities  of  the  country,  with  much  civility 
and  intelligence.  The  value  of  a milch  cow,  they 
informed  us,  varied  from  twelve  to  twenty  dollars. 
Donkeys  and  mules  could  be  bought  for  from  twelve 
to  forty  dollars,  and  riding-horses,  such  as  are  in  com- 
mon use,  for  from  forty  to  eighty.  A horse  and  mule- 
teer may  be  hired  for  sixty  cents  per  day — the  owner 
to  provide  forage.  Eggs  sell  for  six  cents  a dozen  ; 
chickens  bring  from  twelve  to  twenty  cents  per  pair, 
and  all  other  produce  in  like  proportions  Their 


JOURNEY  TO  SIDON. 


223 


sheep  yield  wool  in  abundance:  but  of  a coarse  qual- 
ity, and  large  quantities  of  it  are  sent  to  this  country. 
Their  goats  supply  the  inhabitants  with  milk,  which, 
they  think,  is  much  richer,  and  of  a far  better  flavor, 
than  that  of  cows.  It  requires  but  little  to  keep 
them,  and  when  the  pasture  is  in  a seared  condition, 
they  are  to  be  seen  feeding  every where  on  the  de- 
clivities of  the  mountain  ridges,  and  in  places  where 
cows  never  venture.  For  this  and  other  reasons,  the 
farmers  regard  them  as  the  most  valuable  portion  of 
their  stock. 

At  three  o’clock,  p.m.,  we  resumed  our  journey,  and 
soon  entered  on  the  broad  plain  of  Sidon.  We  passed 
several  comfortable,  but  not  expensive,  private  resi- 
dences, situated  on  the  plain,  with  gardens  surround- 
ing them,  which  abounded  in  fruits.  Prominent 
among  them  were  apricots,  oranges,  almonds,  palms, 
and  pomegranates.  Bordering  the  way  were  the 
ruins  of  ancient  edifices,  and  fragments  of  columns, 
the  ghost-like  representatives  of  old  Sidon,  constantly 
reminding  us  that  we  were  passing  over  the  site  of  a 
once  great  commercial  emporium. 

We  arrived  in  the  city  some  time  before  sundown, 
the  distance  from  Tyre  being  only  twenty-five  miles. 
We  rode  through  the  streets  in  single  file,  the  drago- 
man leading  the  way,  as  they  are  too  narrow  to  per- 
mit of  two  riding  abreast  These  narrow  thorough- 
fares are  peculiarly  characteristic  of  the  oriental 
cities.  Some  of  the  streets  through  which  we  passed 
were,  in  part,  covered  over  at  the  top,  as  is  customary 
in  this  country,  in  order  to  protect  the  inhabitants 
from  the  scorching  summer  sun.  In  many  places 
rooms  were  built  on  arches  thrown  across  the  street; 
openings,  however,  are  left  at  intervals  to  admit  the 
light  and  air. 

Our  Tyrian  travelling  companions  entered  the  town 
a few  moments  after  us.  They  had  been  detained,  a 


224 


OLD  SIDON. 


t 


short  distance  from  the  city,  by  reason  of  one  of  the 
Indies  having  lost  her  elegant  and  costly  slipper, 
which  had  fallen  from  her  foot  and  dropped  upon  the 
road.  One  of  the  servants,  having  been  sent  back  to 
find  it,  soon  returned  with  it.  Here  we  separated 
from  them,  and,  in  bidding  us  farewell,  as  they  kissed 
our  hands — which  is  usual  when  taking  leave  of  their 
superiors,  or  those  to  whom  they  wished  to  pay 
marked  respect — they  wished  us  health,  happiness, 
and  a safe  return  to  our  friends,  bowing  in  the  most 
gracious  manner,  and  waving  their  hands  adieu. 


CHAPTER  XL VIII. 

OLD  SIDON. 

Rev.  Mr.  Eddy— Harbor  of  Sidon— Old  Castle — Situation  of  the  City — Its  In- 
habitants—Its  Early  OUeatness— Conquered  by  the  Persians— Its  Destruc- 
tion— King  Louis  of  France — Its  Former  Manufactures— Its  Ruins— Mis- 
sionary Residence — Pleasant  Acquaintances — An  Evening  in  Sidon. 

We  were  presented  to  his  excellency  the  gover- 
nor of  this  city,  (Sidon,)  by  the  Rev.  W.  W.  Eddy, 
an  American  missionary  here.  This  Christian  gen- 
tleman is  much  esteemed  and  respected  by  all  in 
authority,  as  well  as  by  the  citizens  generally.  He 
accompanied  us  to  the  most  interesting  parts  of  the 
town,  pointing  out  everything  worthy  of  our  atten- 
tion. We  visited  the  harbors  and  the  remains  of  the 
old  breakwater,  formed  by  nature  and  art  combined, 
which  once  made  this  a safe  and  commodious  haven 
for  vessels.  We  noticed  the  arched  bridge  which  con- 
nects the  main-land  with  the  old  castle  (Zor)  built 
over  rocks  before  the  city.  It  is  now  in  ruins,  having 
been  destroyed  by  the  English  government  in  the  war 
with  Ibrahaui  Pacha.  We  afterward  examined  an- 


OLD  SIDON. 


225 


ther  old  castle  on  the  hill,  which,  as  its  present  form 
indicates,  must  have  been  rebuilt  by  King  Louis  of 
France,  while  the  city  was  in  his  possession. 

Si  don  is  situated  on  grounds  rising  rapidly  from  the 
sea-shore  to  tne  plain  lying  east  of  its  present  walls. 
It  formerly  extended  to  the  lower  ridge  of  the  Leba- 
non Mountains,  (which  is  one  mile  from  its  present 
eastern  gate,)  and  many  miles  along  the  sea-shore. 
It  is  now,  however,  reduced  to  much  narrower  limits, 
and  does  not  exceed  a mile  in  length  on  the  coast,  or 
a half  mile  in  width.  It  contains  ten  thousand  in- 
habitants, seven  thousand  of  which  are  Mahorame- 
dans,  three  hundred  Jews,  and  the  rest  nominal  Chris- 
tians of  various  sects.  There  are  no  fraternal  feelings 
existing  between  the  different  denominations  ; but,  on 
the  contrary,  the  bitterest  animosity  prevails  among 
them. 

The  city  was  founded  by  Si  don,  the  son  of  Canaan. 
Moses,  in  the  tenth  chapter  of  Genesis,  called  it  the 
first-born  of  Canaan.  Joshua  refers  to  it  as  the  great 
city,  and  Homer  mentions  it  as  being  distinguished 
above  all  other  cities  for  its  manufactures.  The  city 
of  Tyre,  notwithstanding  it  was  under  its  sway  for 
several  centuries,  did  not  refuse,  even  in  its  brightest 
days,  to  honor  it  as  the  parent  of  its  own  grandeur. 
From  the  position  and  importance  of  this  ancient  city 
as  a commercial  town,  it  was  exposed  to  frequent  as- 
saults from  rival  nations,  and  suffered  greatly  at  dif- 
ferent periods  of  its  existence  ; but  the  severest  cal- 
amity which  ever  befell  it,  was  in  the  year  350  b.  c., 
when  Oclius,  with  an  army  of  nearly  four  hundred 
thousand  men,  invaded  Phoenicia,  on  his  way  to 
Egypt,  when,  through  the  treachery  of  Mentor,  the 
commander  of  its  military  and  naval  forces,  and  of 
Tennis,  King  of  Sidon,  the  city  fell  into  the  hands  of 
the  Persians.  When  the  Sidonians  discovered  that 
they  had  been  betrayed  by  their  king,  they  shut 


226 


OLD  8IDON. 


themselves  and  their  wives  and  children  within  their 
houses,  which  they  then  set  on  fire,  and  all  of  them 
perished  in  the  flames.  Everything  of  value,  includ- 
ing the  archives  of  the  city,  its  records,  and  all  that 
related  to  its  ancient  history  and  literature,  as  well  as 
its  treasures,  were  totally  destroyed. 

The  wealth,  which  its  citizens  had  for  ages  been  ac- 
cumulating, the  splendor  of  the  city’s  adornments, 
and  the  pride  of  its  princes  and  merchants — all  van- 
ished at  the  approach  of  the  conqueror.  There  was 
no  tiling  left  to  satisfy  his  inordinate  thirst  for  gain 
but  the  ashes  of  the  city.  Even  from  these,  however, 
which  contained  the  melted  silver  and  gold  of  its  in- 
habitants, he  realized  a large  amount  of  money.  It 
may  be,  and  probably  is,  owing  to  this  calamity,  that 
no  remnants  of  their  writings  are  preserved  to  us, 
which  can  throw  any  light  upon  their  customs  and 
manners.  The  city  was  soon  afterwards  rebuilt  in 
part;  but  its  inhabitants  not  being  in  a condition  to 
defend  themselves  against  aggression,  it  was  surren- 
dered to  Alexander  the  Great  without  a struggle. 

The  sufferings  of  the  city,  during  the  war  of  the 
Crusaders,  were  no  less  severe  ; for  while  King  Louis 
of  France  was  absent  from  his  command,  on  a visit  to 
Tyre,  it  was  attacked  by  its  enemies,  and  all  the 
Christians  within  its  walls  were  put  to  the  sword. 
Their  dead  bodies  remained  exposed,  without  burial, 
until  the  city  was  recaptured  by  the  king.* 

The  manufacturing  of  silk,  linen,  and  glass,  for 
which  the  town  has  ever  been  distinguished,  is  still 
canied  on  here  to  a limited  extent,  while  the  beauti- 
ful purple  dye,  invented  by  its  citizens  at  an  early 
day,  is  still  in  use  by  its  present  inhabitants  ; but 
notwithstanding  the  apparently  active  stir  of  business 
within  its  walls,  the  broken  columns  and  fragments 
of  ancient  buildings,  which  are  to  be  seen  wherever 
one  may  roam,  either  within  the  city  or  its  surround- 


OLD  SIDON. 


227 


ings  are  constantly  reminding  the  tourist  of  its  for- 
mer grandeur,  which,  in  contrasting  it  with  its  pre- 
sent fallen  condition,  produces  on  his  mind  feelings 
of  the  most  painful  character.  Formerly  its  harbor 
was  sufficiently  commodious  to  admit  vessels  of  great 
burden  ; but  it  is  now,  and  lias  been  for  ages,  so  filled 
up  with  ruins  and  drifting  sands,  as  to  allow  only  the 
smallest  craft  to  approach  the  city. 

We  accepted  the  kind  invitation  of  the  Rev.  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Eddy,  and  dwelt  with  them  while  we  re- 
mained in  Sidon.  Their  residence  is  in  one  of  the 
largest  of  the  private  dwellings  within  the  city.  Il 
contains  numerous  apartments,  including  a chapel  for 
Protestant  worship,  and  a commodious  school-room. 
It  has,  beside,  a large  court  within  its  centre.  It  was 
built  two  or  three  hundred  years  ago  by  a pasha  for 
his  private  residence,  and  was  elaborately  finished 
and  expensively  adorned,  in  accordance  with  his  lux- 
urious taste.  It  adjoins  the  eastern  wall  of  the  town, 
and  there  is  a fine  view  from  its  roof  of  the  city  and 
surrounding  country. 

While  we  were  at  their  hospitable  mansion,  we 
met  with  the  Rev.  S.  H.  Calhoun,  from  the  state  of 
Massachusetts,  now  a missionary  and  a resident  of 
Abeih,  on  Mount  Lebanon,  about  twenty  miles  from 
Sidon.  He  is  a professor  in  an  institute  of  learning 
at  the  former  place,  and  from  his  long  residence  in 
the  country,  has  acquired  a perfect  mastery  of  the 
language,  and  become  intimately  acquainted  with  its 
inhabitants.  He  and  his  associates  in  the  missionary 
cause,  among  whom  are  a number  of  learned  and  dis- 
tinguished divines,  are  doing  much  good  for  the  en- 
lightenment and  regeneration  of  Syria.  My  personal 
acquaintance  with  some  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Eddy’s 
friends,  and  with  two  of  Mr.  Calhoun’s  brothers,  (one 
of  whom  represented  the  state  of  Massachusetts,  in 
part,  in  Congress  for  several  years,  and  the  other  had 


228 


OLD  STDON. 


occupied  the  office  of  President  of  the  Kansas  Con 
vention,  which  framed  the  Lecompton  Constitution,) 
led  to  many  inquiries  from  them  respecting  their 
relatives  and  friends  at  home,  so  that  we  passed  our 
evening  in  old  Sidon  most  happily,  in  talking  over 
matters  relating  to  our  beloved  country,  and  the  nu- 
merous friends  we  had  left  behind  us. 


CHAPTER  XLIX. 
ashmanazer’s  sarcophagus. 

Remarkable  Discovery  of  Sarcophagus— Its  Dimensions— Inscriptions  on  it— 
Introduction  of  Letters— Josepus’  time — Root  of  Languages — Dr.  Thom- 
son—Mr.  Salt’s  Opinion— The  Father  of  History —Moses — Plato— The  Spot 
where  the  Sarcophagus  was  found— Mr.  Eddy 

In  concluding  my  observations  on  this  ancient  and 
interesting  city  (Sidon),  I would  remark  that  it  was 
here,  in  the  year  1857,  that  the  celebrated  sarcophagus 
was  discovered,  which  is  now  in  the  Louvre,  in  Paris. 
I examined  it  when  in  that  city,  when  on  my  way 
to  the  east.  It  is  four  feet  high  and  seven  in  length. 
It  is  constructed  of  blue-black  basalts,  exceedingly 
hard,  and  highly  polished.  The  upper  end  of  it  is 
wrought  into  a human  figure,  and  bears  an  inscrip- 
tion upon  it  of  twenty  two  long  lines,  in  the  Phoeni- 
cian language,  resembling  the  Hebrew.  The  writing 
is  in  a perfect  state  of  preservation,  and  as  easy  to 
decipher  as  in  the  day  it  was  engraved.  The  inscrip- 
tion has  been  translated  by  several  distinguished  lin 
guists,  and  although  the  versions  differ  somewhat, 
yet,  it  is  said,  they  are  in  substance  the  same.  As 
its  length  forbids  my  introducing  it  in  this  letter,  I 
have  prepared  the  following  condensed  sketch  of  it : 
“I  am  Ashmanazer,  King  of  the  Sidonians,  son  of 


ASHMAN  AZEr’s  SARCOPHAGUS. 


229 


Tibnith,  King  of  the  Sidonians,  and  my  mother,  Im- 
miastoreth,  Priestess  to  Astarte,  onr  sovereign  qneen, 
daughter  of  A smunazer.  The  heavenly  powers  have 
established  me  on  the  throne,  and  bestowed  on  me 
P<>r  and  Joppa,  and  ample  corn  lands,  which  are  at 
the  root  of  I)an.  My  prohibition  upon  every  royal 
person,  and  upon  every  man,  not  to  open  my  sepul- 
chre, and  not  to  seek  with  me  treasures,  for  there  are 
no  treasures  with  me,  nor  to  take  away  this  sarcoph- 
agus ; and  if  any  one  shall  do  so,  he  shall  have  no 
funeral  with  the  dead,  nor  be  buried  in  a sepulchre, 
nor  leave  behind  him  a son  or  any  posterity,  and  the 
holy  gods,  with  the  king  that  shall  rule  over  him, 
shall  cut  off  that  royal  person,  or  that  man  whomso- 
soever  he  may  he,  and  he  shall  be  accursed  among  the 
living  under  the  sun  ; because  I am  to  be  pitied, 
snatched  away  in  the  fourteenth  year  of  my  reign, 
before  my  time,  like  the  flowing  of  a river.” 

I regard  this  as  the  most  remarbable  literary  dis- 
covery of  the  age,  since  from  the  inscription  on  it,  in 
the  Phoenician  language,  resembling  the  old  Hebrew, 
(the  letters  being  nearly  the  same),  it  establishes  the 
important  fact,  that  long  before  the  reign  of  King 
Ili  rom  (1050  n.  c.)  letters  had  been  used  in  writing 
by  the  Phoenicians.  This  was  several  hundred  years 
before  they  had  been  thus  employed  by  the  Greeks, 
for  the  Greeks  themselves  admit  that  they  had  no 
writers  earlier  than  Homer.  It  is  well  to  remember 
that  the  Greeks  entertained  the  opinion  that  they 
were  the  most  ancient  nation  in  Europe  ; yet  even 
they  consider  themselves  as  of  yesterday  when  com- 
pared with  the  Egyptians  and  Phoenicians.  Their 
prejudices,  however,  as  well  as  those  of  other  nations, 
were  so  great  as  regards  the  Jews,  whose  country 
adjoined  that  of  the  Phoenicians,  that  they  could  not 
be  induced  to  believe  Josephus’s  account  of  the  an- 


230 


ashmanazer’s  sarcophagus. 


tiquity  of  the  Jewish  nation,  which  is  to  be  found  in 
his  learned,  excellent,  and  useful  work. 

The  answer  of  Apion,  of  Alexandria,  denying  the 
antiquity  of  the  Jews,  and  maintaining  that  they  left 
Egypt  only  nine  hundred  years  before  Christ,  drew 
from  Josephus  his  celebrated  reply,  wherein  he  pro- 
duces undeniable  proof  of  die  truth  of  his  former 
statement,  by  copious  extracts  from  Phoenician, 
Egyptian,  and  Babylonian  writers.  It  is,  however, 
to  be  regretted  that  the  sources  from  which  he  drew 
his  evidence  have  long  since  been  lost  to  the  world, 
and  all  that  now  remain  of  them  are  comprised  in 
these  extracts.  If  this  sarcophagus  had  been  discov- 
ered in  Josephus’s  time,  it  might  have  enabled  him 
to  have  shown  still  more  conclusively,  not  only  that 
the  Jews  and  Phoenicians  wrote  and  spoke  the  same 
language,  but  that  the  latter  had  a knowledge  of  the 
phonetic  art  long  before  the  reign  of  King  Hiram, 
who,  as  he  states,  corresponded  with  King  Solomon 
of  Jerusalem  respecting  the  building  of  the  Temple. 
This  was  at  a period  at  least  one  hundred  and  fifty 
years  prior  to  the  time  that  Apion  asserts  the  He- 
brews left  Egypt  for  the  Holy  Land. 

Again,  this  inscription  would  have  been  no  less  ser- 
viceable to  Bochart  and  Akerblad,  distinguished  as 
Oriental  scholars  and  linguists,  in  support  of  their 
opinions  that  the  Phoenician  and  Hebrew  languages 
were  anciently  the  same  The  honor  of  first  intro- 
ducing the  art  of  writing  with  letters  no  doubt  belongs 
either  to  the  Hebrews  or  the  Phoenicians.  The  char- 
acters used  were  the  same  as  those  employed  b}r  the 
Samaritans,  and  were  used,  also,  by  the  Jews  before 
the  Babylonish  captivity. 

The  English  government  has  long  been  in  posses- 
sion of  the  Arundelian  and  Parian  marbles,  which 
contain  inscriptions  upon  them  of  the  principal  events 
in  Grecian,  and  particularly  in  Athenian  history,  go- 


ashman  azer’s  sarcophagus. 


231 


ing  back  to  a very  early  period  ; but  their  authenti- 
city has  been  called  in  question.  There  are,  also,  to 
be  found  in  the  British  Museum  many  specimens  of 
hieroglyphics,  but  none  of  a written  composition 
where  letters  are  used,  of  an  earlier  period  than  that 
of  the  inscription  on  King  Asmunazer’s  sarcophagus 
Mr.  Salt,  a learned  traveller  and  antiquarian,  made 
some  discoveries  which  establish  the  fact  that  phone- 
tic characters  were  in  use  in  Egypt  more  than  seven 
hundred  years  before  the  Christian  era,  and  that  pho- 
netic symbols  can  be  traced  back  fifteen  and  six- 
teen hundred  years  before  Christ,  thus  showing  that 
they  were  known  during  the  days  of  Moses ; but 
whether  or  not  these  characters  were  used  by  him  in 
Writing  the  Pentateuch  is  beyond  the  reach  of  prooi 
Indeed  many  sceptical  writers  would  have  the  world  be 
lieve  that  the  great  law-giver  did  not  write  these  books 
himself,  but  that  they  were  compiled  by  Ezra  long  after 
the  death  of  the  former.  To  me  it  is  clear  that  the  ten 
commandments  and  the  laws  were  presented  to  the 
Jews  for  their  government  while  on  their  march  from 
Egypt  to  the  promised  land.  Their  eudeavor,  also,  to 
establish  the  falsity  of  the  Mosaic  account  of  thecrea- 
tion  of  the  world,  is  alike  unworthy  of  attention.  They 
allege  that  it  is  here  the  father  of  history,  Herodotus, 
who  visited  Egypt  450  years  before  the  Christian  era, 
came,  and  that  the  priests,  who  were  the  most  learned 
men  in  that  country,  informed  him  that  that  kingdom 
had  then  existed  for  upwards  of  twenty  thousand 
years.  But  let  it  be  recollected  that  Moses  was  edu- 
cated for  the  duties  of  the  priesthood  himself,  and 
could,  and  doubtless  did,  as  a disciple  of  this  order, 
attain  a knowledge  of  all  the  arts  and  learning  which 
this  privileged  class  carefully  conferred  on  their  fol- 
lowers, and,  therefore,  his  statement  is  much  more  re- 
liable than  the  traditionary  account  of  Herodotus, 
obtained  from  the  priests  upwards  of  eleven  centuries 


232 


ashmanazer’s  sarcophagus. 


after  the  time  of  Moses.  His  historical  account  ot 
Egypt  would  have  received  no  favor  among  the  Jews 
had  he  recorded  it  incorrectly,  as  it  must  have  been 
well  known  at  the  period  wherein  he  wrote  to  all  the 
inhabitants.  Plato  relates  that  during  the  reign  of 
King  Thamus  of  Egypt,  his  secretary,  Thotli,  laid  be- 
fore him  the  invention  ofletters,  which  he  had  discov- 
ered, of  the  alphabet ; but  the  King,  who  was  appre- 
hensive that  if  they  were  introduced,  hieroglyphics 
would  be  superseded,  therefore  objected  to  their  be- 
ing used  during  his  reign. 

The  Rev.  Dr.  Thomson,  author  of  .a  work  entitled, 
“The  Land  and  the  Book,”  who  was  in  Sidou  in  1857- 
when  this  sarcophagus  was  discovered,  gives  the  follow- 
ing account  of  the  event : “ Our  city  was  startled  out  ot 
her  ordinary  quietude  by  the  report  that  an  extraordi 
nary  sarcophagus  had  been  discovered,  with  a long  in 
scription  in  unknown  characters  upon  the  lid.  All  Si 
don  flocked  to  see  it,  and  I among  the  rest,  but  with  ex- 
pectations very  different.  I had  been  disappointed  too 
frequently  to  place  much  reliance  in.  native  reports. 
Judge,  therefore,  of  my  surprise  and  delight  to  lind 
that  this  unknown  character  was  Phoenician.  I at 
once  became  as  deeply  excited  as  the  gold-diggers  or 
treasure  hunters.” 

The  public  is  much  indebted  to  this  learned  divine 
for  the  translation  of  this  inscription,  and  of  giving 
publicity  to  it  in  his  valuable  volumes.  This  transla- 
tion was  approved  by  Chevalier  Bunsen  and  Profes- 
sor Dietrich,  distinguished  linguists.  Previous  to  my 
departure  from  Sidon,  Mr.  Eddy  pointed  out  to  me 
the  very  spot  from  whence  this  sarcophagus  had  been 
removed. 


FROM  8IDON  TO  BEIROUT. 


233 


CHAPTER  L. 

FROM  SIDON  TO  BEIROUT. 

Coast  of  Phoenicia— The  Lebanon  Mountains— Last  View  of  Sidon— Khan  of 
the  Prophet  Jonah— Remarkable  Columns— Tomb  of  Jonah— Promontory 
— ' ruses— Swampy  Land— First  View  of  Reirout— Its  Harbor  -Plantations 
— Country  Residences— Commercial  Prosperity— Its  Early  History — Mor 
monism. 

The  month  of  July  being  near  at  hand,  when  it  is 
unsafe  for  persons  unacclimated  to  remain  in  the  coun- 
try, we  took  leave  of  our  hospitable  friends,  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  Eddy,  and  hastened  on  our  journey  toward  Bei- 
rout,  our  road  still  continuing  along  the  coast  of  Phoe- 
nicia. This  ancient  country  is  confined  within  very 
narrow  limits.  It  commences  on  the  south,  at  Mount 
Carmel,  and  extends  along  the  sea-shore  for  upward 
of  one  hundred  miles,  and  from  thence  it  penetrates 
into  the  interior  to  the  summit  of  Mount  Lebanon, 
which  is  only  a few  miles  from  the  Mediterranean. 
The  coasts  of  Tyre  and  Sidon  occupy  the  greater  part 
thereof,  and  are  the  most  populous.  Limited,  how- 
ever, as  Phoenicia  now  is,  and  ever  has  been,  in  point 
of  territory,  it  exercised,  before  its  decline,  for  cen- 
turies a controlling  influence  over  the  surrounding 
nations ; but  which  is  now  prostrated  through  the  ar- 
bitrarv  rule  of  the  feeble,  though  despotic,  Ottoman 
government. 

As  we  journeyed  along  the  coast  I noticed  that  the 
Lebanon  Mountains,  at  some  points  receded  from, 
and  at  others  advanced  toward,  the  sea,  from  whence 
they  rise  gradually  to  the  regions  of  perpetual  snow 


234: 


FROM  SIDON  TO  BEIROUT. 


and  ice ; the  rocky  shore,  at  the  base  of  these  stupen- 
dous mountains,  bordered  one  side  of  our  path,  and 
the  stormy  sea  the  other.  The  coastline  curves  from 
the  city  toward  the  north-west,  for  a distance  of  five 
miles,  at  which  point  the  mountain  juts  into  the  sea, 
and,  in  passing  over  this  headland  we  had,  from  its 
summit,  a commanding  view  of  Sidon.  Here  we 
halted,  as  thousands  had,  doubtless,  done  before  us, 
in  order  to  take  our  last  view  of  this  once  renowned 
city,  now  crumbled  into  ruins. 

Continuing  our  journey,  we  passed,  about  ten  miles 
from  this  promontory,  the  river  Damoras ; or,  as  it 
was  anciently  called,  the  Tamyras.  Here,  again,  as 
in  so  man}'  other  parts  of  this  old  land,  the  traveller 
is  reminded  of  some  of  the  most  remarkable  incidents 
recorded  in  sacred  and  profane  history,  for  it  was  on 
the  banks  of  this  stream  that  Antiochus  the  Great  en- 
countered the  forces  of  Ptolemy,  and  gained  one  of 
his  most  important  victories.  Three  or  four  miles 
from  this  river  we  halted  at  the  celebrated  Khan  of 
the  Prophet  Jonah , situated  near  the  sea  shore,  and 
. facing  an  extensive  and  beautiful  beach  entirely  free 
of  rocks  and  stones,  upon  which,  as  the  inhabitants 
in  the  vicinity  religiously  believe  and  maintain,  the 
holy  prophet,  as  we  read  in  the  sacred  writings,  was 
cast  by  the  monster  of  the  deep.  The  Syrians,  how- 
ever, whose  right  to  dispute  this  matter  none  will 
question,  claim  that  this  notable  event  occurred  at 
the  head  of  the  great  bay  of  Iskanderan,  near  the  di- 
viding line  of  Asia  Minor  and  Syria,  and  where  now 
stand  two  or  more  columns,  erected,  as  they  say,  to 
commemorate  this  event ; the  opponents  of  this  con- 
tend that  these  columns  were  raised,  and  used,  for 
piers  for  a gate  at  the  boundary  line  between  the  two 
countries,  at  which  point  all  travellers  were  required, 
at  that  early  day,  to  produce  their  passports  before 
they  were  allowed  to  proceed  on  their  journey. 


FROM  SIDON  TO  BEIROUT. 


235 


The  tomb  of  Jonah  is  near  the  Khan.  It  contains 
rooms  for  the  accommodation  of  the  monks  who  have 
it  in  charge,  and  for  the  pilgrims  who  frequent  it. 
These  last  are  chiefiy  Mussulmen  and  Druses. 

zlfter  we  had  rested  and  were  sufficiently  recover- 
ed from  the  fatigue  of  our  morning’s  ride,  we  re- 
sumed our  journey.  For  live  miles  our  road  lay 
along  this  beautiful  beach,  when  our  course  was  ar- 
rested by  a promontory  of  land  projecting  into  the 
sea ; here  we  left  the  shore  and  pursued  a northerly 
course  over  an  extensive  plain.  On  the  southerly  de- 
clivity of  the  mountains,  bounding  this  plain  on  the 
north,  are  to  be  seen  rhe  village  of  Suchfort,  and  oth- 
er rural  towns,  belonging  to  the  Druses.  This  re- 
markable race  possesses  a large  tract  of  mountain  re- 
gion, extending  from  Contraven  to  Carmel.  The 
population  exceeds  one  hundred  and  eighty  thousand, 
of  which  fifty  thousand  are  able  to  bear  arms.  The 
male  inhabitants,  however,  who  can  carr/*  guns,  are 
at  all  times  armed  cap-a-pie,  prepared  for  any  emer- 
gency of  a hostile  character.  These  people  derive 
their  name  from  one  of  their  religious  teachers.  Their 
sacred  books,  which  were  concealed  in  the  earth,* 
contain  doctrines  which  prove  the  selfish  policy  of 
t:ieir  author,  and  are  disgraceful  to  humanity.  Their 
peculiar  religious  tenets,  concerning  which  they  main- 
tain great  secrecy,  are  said,  by  those  who  have  been 
enabled  to  investigate  them,  to  be  a union  of  those 
held  by  the  Sadducees,  the  Samaritans,  and  the  Ma- 
hommedans.  While  the  Druses  submit  to  the  author- 
ities of  the  Ottoman  government,  they  also  owe,  and 
yield,  allegiance  to  a sovereign  of  their  own. 

The  low  and  marshy  plain  over  which  we  passed, 
formerly  rendered  Beirout  very  unhealthy  ; but  in 

* In  this  respect  the  Mormons  of  Utah  may  he  said  to  have  followed  in  their 
footsteps,  as  Joe  Smith,  the  Prophet,  declared  that  the  Book  of  Mormon 
which  is  their  Bible,  was  found  by  him  concealed  in  the  earth. 


236 


FROM  SIDON  TO  BEIROCJT. 


pursuing  our  course  toward  the  city,  which  was  hid 
den  from  our  view  by  an  intervening  hill  of  gentle 
elevation,  we  came  upon  an  extensive  forest  of  pine- 
trees,  planted  many  years  ago,  between  the  city  and 
the  swamp,  in  order  to  intercept  the  miasma  which 
arose  from  the  latter.  Before  this  forest  was  planted, 
the  unsheltered  town  was  perpetually  a prey  to  pesti- 
lence, occasioned  by  the  poisonous  vapor  which  was 
wafted  to  it  from  the  marsh.  When  the  pine  grove, 
however,  reached  a certain  height,  the  progress  of 
the  miasma  was  intercepted,  and  the  rays  of  the  sun 
dispersed  it,  before  its  pernicious  blight  could  reach 
the  city.  Beirout  is  now  deemed  one  of  the  most 
healthy  and  desirable  places  for  residence  in  Syria. 

Our  first  view  of  the  place  was  obtained  from  the 
summit  of  the  hill  that  rises  on  its  eastern  side.  From 
this  point  the  city,  within  its  walls  and  ramparts,  was 
spread  out  like  a map  before  us.  It  descends  by  irre- 
gular winding  terraces  two  hundred  feet  to  the  sea- 
shore. The  streets  are  narrow ; but  the  houses  are 
built  of  stone,  neatly  constructed,  and  their  interiors 
convenient  in  arrangement. 

The  harbor  is  far  from  being  a secure  one — most  of 
the  larger  class  of  vessels  lie  in  front  of  the  town  at 
anchor.  The  sea  is  here  very  boisterous  at  certain 
seasons  of  the  year,  and  the  wrecks  of  many  vessels 
are  seen  as  you  approach  the  town,  either  from  the 
north  or  south,  lying  rotting  on  the  beach.  The  vieu 
of  the  city  itself,  the  numerous  plantations  of  mulberry 
and  olive  trees,  the  rich  orchards  in  its  environs,  the 
harbor,  with  the  numerous  crafts  at  anchor,  the  ocean, 
whitened  with  the  sails  of  vessels  going  and  coming, 
the  glassy  bay  of  St.  George  on  the  north,  the  moun- 
tains standing  like  sentinels  on  the  north-east,  their 
green  sides  dotted  with  the  rural  villages  of  the  Dru- 
ses, the  great  plain,  rich  in  grain  and  flocks,  stretch- 
ing out  to  the  southeast,  and,  lastly,  the  Lebanon 


FRCM  8ID0N  TO  BEIROUT. 


237 


Mountains,  with  tlieir  summits  crowned  with  ice  and 
snow,  towering  into  the  heavens,  all  combine  to  render 
the  scene  impressive  and  one  of  an  absorbing  interest. 

The  country  residences  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
possess  an  air  of  comfort,  and,  in  some  instances,  ele- 
gance and  refine  lent.  But  the  narrow  roads,  and  the 
fences,  formed  of  the  pricklv  pear  grown  to  a con  id- 
crable  height,  which  surround  the  grounds,  do  not 
make  a favorable  impression  on  the  minds  of  persons 
accustomed  to  the  wide,  smooth  roads,  neatly  kept 
hedges  and  well-built  fences,  which  are  characteristic 
of  private  residences  in  England  and  America. 

There  is  much  commercial  activity  at  this  place; 
vessels  from  all  climes  may  be  seen  at  the  wharves 
during  the  day,  engaged  in  loading  or  unloading.  I 
noticed  in  the  harbor  a fine  American  vessel,  belong- 
ing to  Boston,  which  had  recently  discharged  a load 
of  lumber,  from  the  State  of  Maine,  which  cargo  met 
with  a ready  and  profitable  sale. 

The  history  of  Bcirout  is  involved  in  much  obscu- 
rity ; but  that  portion  of  it  which  is  regarded  as  au- 
thentic affords  interesting  proof  of  the  power  a com- 
mercial town,  favored  by  position  and  other  natural 
advantages,  possesses,  to  rise  in  spite  of  almost  every 
calamity  which  may  be  turned  against  it.  During 
this  town’s  long  career,  it  has  been  repeatedly  sacked 
and  plundered,  and  its  inhabitants  put  to  the  sword ; 
and  in  a.  d.  5 5 L , it  was  totally  destroyed  by  an  earth- 
quake. On  that  terrible  occasion  its  colleges, 
churches,  temples,  theatres,  and  all  other  public  and 
private  buildings,  together  with  a multitude  of  its 
inhabitants,  were  overwhelmed  in  its  ruins.  No 
sooner,  however,  were  other  people  settled  within  its 
wal Is  than  prosperity  returned  to  it.  It  is  doubtful 
whether  it  wa.s  a place  of  any  consequence  during  the 
early  days  of  the  Jewish  nation  ; but  in  the  reign  of 
Augustus,  it  rose  to  the  rank  of  a Hunan  colony,  and 


238 


IN  BEIROUT. 


had  become  unusually  distinguished  in  the  first  ages 
of  Christianity  for  its  schools  of  learning,  which  flour- 
ished here  for  centuries,  after  their  decline  in  other 
more  noted  localities.  Many  of  the  most  accom- 
plished scholars  of  those  times,  in  law  and  philoso- 
phy, were  educated  at  these  institutions.  It  was  here 
that  Saladin  was  declared  sovereign  of  the  Syrian 
provinces,  of  which  this  city  was  the  capitol,  and 
here,  too,  he  was  crowned. 


CHAPTER  LI. 

IN  BEIROUT. 


Herod's  Sons— Arab  Newspaper— nadikat  el  Acbbar— Consul  Johnson— Rev. 
Mr.  Dixon— Bellevue  Hotel— CofTee  Saloons— Story  Tellers. 


It  was  in  Beirout  that  the  celebrated  council,  or 
assembly,  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  assessors  or  judges, 
for  the  trial  of  Herod’s  sons,  on  charges  cruelly  pre- 
ferred against  them  bjT  their  father,  was  convened  by 
permission  of  Caesar.  Here,  too,  their  sentence  of 
death  was  pronounced,  which  was  afterward  carried 
out  by  strangling  them  at  a spot  near  Sidon. 

Notwithstanding  the  numerous  calamities  which 
have  at  various  times  overtaken  this  ill-fated  town  by 
wars,  pestilence,  earthquakes,  and  famines,  it  still  oc- 
cupies a high  position  among  important  ea-tern  cities. 
It  contains  a population  of  thirty -five  thousand  inhab- 
itants, and  much  attention  is  paid,  at  this  time,  to 
educating  its  youth,  by  the  American  missionaries  re- 
siding here.  The  New  Testament  has  by  them  been 
translated  into  the  language  of  the  country,  and  copies 
of  the  same  disseminated  among  the  people.  An 


IN  BET  ROUT. 


23S 


Arabic  newspaper,  printed  on  a fair  sized  sheet,  ig 
published  here  every  Saturday,  at  six  dollars  a year. 
It  was  established,  with  the  consent  of  the  Sultan,  at 
the  beginning  of  1858,  and  is  called  Hadikat  Ei 
Achbar , which  means  in  English  the  Garden  of 
News.  It  is  solely  a private  enterprise,  the  Govern- 
ment having  nothing  to  do  with  it.  The  editor  is 
Chalel  el  Chari,  a native  writer,  and  a poet  of  fine 
culture  and  ability.  He  is  the  author  of  a volume  oi 
Arabic  poems,  which  have  given  him  much  reputa- 
tion among  iiis  people.  The  contents  of  his  journal 
are  made  up  of  loreign  and  domestic  news,  miscella- 
neous items,  paragraphs  of  wit  and  sentiment,  topics 
of  trade,  and  advertisements.  The  miscellany  pre- 
sents a great  variety  of  subjects,  including  literary, 
scientific,  industrial,  and  moral  essays,  as  well  as  long 
serial  tales,  continued  from  number  to  number. 

Consuls  from  all  parts  of  the  world  are  accredited 
here,  and  it  gives  me  much  satisfaction  to  state  that 
the  United  States  is  ably  represented  by  I.  Augustus 
Johnson.  He  and  his  accomplished  consort  leave 
undone  nothing  which  it  is  in  their  power  to  accom- 
plish to  add  to  the  security,  comfort,  and  happiness  of 
their  countrymen  while  travelling  through  or  sojourn- 
ing in  this  land.  Mrs.  Johnson  is  an  excellent  lin- 
guist, and  a ready  writer.  Some  of  her  published 
works  on  the  Holy  Land  may  be  found  in  many  of 
the  public  and  private  libraries  in  the  United  States. 
Our  country  is  much  indebted  to  Mr.  Johnson  for  ob- 
taining the  final  verdict  and  decree  against  the  Arabs 
who  committed  the  gross  outrage  on  the  ladies  of  the 
family  of  the  Hev.  Mr.  Dixon,  and  murdered  his  son- 
in-law,  at  Joppa,  in  1859.  The  sentence  was  death 
on  the  criminal  who  committed  the  murder,  imprison- 
ment for  life,  at  Constantinople,  of  his  four  accom- 
plices, and  indemnity,  in  the  amount  of  twenty-live 
hundred  dollars,  to  the  family  of  Mr.  Dixon  and  the 
widow  of  his  son-in-law.  If  these  offenders  had  not 


240 


IN  BEIROUT. 


been  punished  for  this  flagrant  act,  it  would  have  been 
unsafe  for  Americans  to  have  travelled  through  the 
country  thenceforth. 

We  resided,  while  we  remained  in  Beirout,  at  the 
j Belle  Vue  Hotel , situated  just  outside  the  walls  of 
the  city,  and  near  the  sea-shore.  It  is  a most  de- 
lightful spot — the  heat  of  summer  being  tempered  by 
cool  sea-breezes.  The  luxurious  uir  of  tranquility  which 
surrounds  it  is  apt  to  tempt  a weary  wanderer  from 
the  Holy  Land  to  linger  longer  here  than  the  time  he 
has  to  spare  will  admit.  It  is  with  satisfaction  I am 
able  to  state,  that  we  were  made  to  feel  ourselves 
quite  at  home  through  the  courtesy  and  attention  of 
lt*s  popular  and  efficient  proprietor. 

We  availed  ourselves  of  the  opportunity  presented 
to  us  while  at  Beirout,  to  visit  all  its  public  institu- 
tions, and  places  of  amusement  and  interest.  The 
chief  recreation  of  the  inhabitants,  and  which  seems 
to  afford  them  the  most  pleasure,  is  to  be  found  at 
their  coffee  saloons,  where  they  go  to  hear  stories  and 
fables,  told  to  them  by  men  who  evince  much  tact 
and  talent  in  relating  them.  It  is  not  un frequently 
the  case  that  these  professional  story-tellers  have  the 
power  of  moving,  by  the  character  of  their  narratives, 
their  hearers  to  laughter  or  tears.  Often,  too,  when 
they  reach  the  most  exciting  point  in  their  story, 
when  their  hearers’  feelings  are  wrought  to  the  high- 
est pitch,  they  break  off  their  tale  abruptly,  declaring 
they  have  no  time  to  tinisli  it  then,  but  will  conclude 
it  on  the  following  day.  This  wily  proceeding  on 
their  part  is  calculated  to  induce  the  hearers  to  re- 
turn at  the  appointed  time,  and,  perhaps,  bring  with 
them  a friend  or  two.  In  this  way  the  business  of 
the  saloon  is  increased  and  its  patrons  secured.  It  is 
thus  that,  in  alLthe  cities  and  towns  throughout  this 
eastern  country,  the  men  spend  their  leisure  hours. 
Their  women  are  confined  to  the  harenft,  and  are  not 
allowed  to  participate  in  these  amusements. 


EXCURSION  TO  DOG  RIVER. 


Ml 


CHAPTER  LII. 

EXCURSION  TO  DOG  RIVER. 


Image  Carved  from  the  Rock— St.  George  and  the  Dragon— Lycus  of  the  An- 
cients—Dangerous  Pass— Emblems— Egyptian  and  Assyrian  Tablets--Stone 
Bridge-Aqueduct— Pic  nic— Cyprus  Vine— General  Morris’  Song,  “ My 
Mother’s  Bible  ’’—Ottoman  Troops. 


Several  parties  were  made  up  for  ns  by  the  resi- 
dents of  the  city  while  we  were  with  them  ; and,  on 
one  occasion,  a riding  company  of  eight  or  ten  ladies 
and  gentlemen  was  got  up  for  an  excursion  to  Dog 
River — which  derives  its  name  from  the  image  of  a 
dog  being  carved  out  of  the  solid  rock  at  that  place 
— eight  or  ten  miles  from  the  city,  and  a very  popu- 
lar wort  for  residents  and  strangers  visiting  the 
town. 

We  passed,  on  our  way  thither,  the  spot  where  it 
is  alleged  that  St.  George,  the  holy  knight,  killed  the 
dragon.  The  scene  of  this  mythical  event,  according 
to  other  ancient  legends,  took  place  in  Cappadocia, 
and  was  performed  by  a prince  of  that  country,  who 
delivered,  by  his  achievement,  Aja,  the  king’s  favor- 
ite daughter,  from  the  fangs  of  the  dragon  which  had 
attacked  her.  But  this  legend  is  more  likely  to  have 
originated  here,  since  it  arose  during  the  time  of  the 
Crusaders,  whose  favorite  battle-grounds  were  in  this 
locality.  Indeed,  the  ancient  Christian  emperors  bore 
upon  their  shields  the  figure  of  the  knight,  typical  of 
Christianity,  slaying  the  dragon,  which  represented 
Mussul maoism  or  heathenism.  The  great  bay  which 
lies  in  front  of  the  spot  where  the  dragon  was  killed, 

11 


EXCURSION  TO  DOG  RIVER. 


242 

has  for  centuries  been  called  by  the  name  of  St. 
George. 

As  we  passed  along  the  beach,  we  saw,  within  a 
space  of  five  miles,  the  hulls  of  seven  large  vessels 
that  had  been  wrecked  in  some  of  the  violent  tem- 
pests which  visit  this  boisterous  coast. 

In  the  vicinity  of  Dog  River— the  Lycns  of  the  an- 
cients— our  course  along  the  beach  was  arrested  by  a 
precipitous  and  rocky  promontory  jutting  into  the 
sea.  It  was  over  this  headland  that  a road  had  been 
cut  through  the  rocks  at  an  early  day,  which  was 
subsequently  enlarged  and  improved  by  the  Romans 
when  this  country  was  one  of  their  provinces.  At 
present,  there  are  only  slight  traces  left  of  the  old 
road  ; but  several  granite  columns,  which  were  used 
as  mile  stcnes,  still  remain.  The  path  itself  is  barely 
wide  enough  to  pass  over  on  horseback  in  single  file. 
The  ladies  of  our  party  here  dismounted  and  walked 
the  remainder  of  the  way,  deeming  it  unsafe  to  pro- 
ceed farther  with  horses.  It  was  over  this  road  that 
the  Egyptians,  Phoenicians, Persians,  Assyrians,  Bab- 
ylonians, Greeks,  and  Romans  marched  and  counter- 
marched their  innumerable  hosts  for  a period  of  four 
thousand  years. 

Carved  on  the  smooth  face  of  the  rocks  bordering 
this  highway,  are  several  Egyptian  and  Assyrian  em- 
blems, and  a Latin  inscription,  nearly  in  a perfect 
state,  which  proves  conclusively  that  the  road  wus 
built  in  the  reign  of  the  Emperor  Marcus  Aurelius 
Antoninus,  surnamed  the  stoic  philosopher,  who  was 
crowned  emperor  in  the  year  121  a.d.,  and  who  died 
at  Sirmium  in  180. 

There  are  three  Egyptian  and  six  Assyrian  tablets 
cut  in  these  rocks,  each  of  a differeent  size  and  shape, 
but  all  large  enough  to  contain  figures  the  size  of 
life.  One  of  the  Egyptian  emblems  is  square  at  the 
ends  and  ornamented  with  a corni  ce  ; another  is  square 


EXCURSION  TO  DOG  RIVER. 


243 


at  the  top  and  corniced,  within  which  a small  figure 
can  be  discovered  ; and  the  third,  which  is  in  a toler- 
able state  of  preservation,  contains  a figure  with  the 
right  hand  elevated  and  the  left  crossing  its  breast. 

Of  the  Assyrian  tablets,  one  is  very  much  defaced, 
two  are  in  a measure  preserved  ; two  others,  which 
are  rounded  at  the  top  and  set,  as  within  frames,  re- 
tain their  original  appearance.  In  one  of  these  a fig- 
ure is  quite  distinct,  with  an  arm  raised,  and  the 
right  hand  grasping  at  something  which  is  too  indis- 
tinct to  be  satisfactorily  decided  upon  as  to  its  char- 
acter. The  remaining  Assyrian  tablet  has  a figure, 
robed  in  a long  dre^s,  with  a curled  and  pleated 
beard,  and  a conical  cap  on  its  head.  This  is  similar 
to  the  figures  contained  in  the  monuments  in  Nine- 
veh. 

The  Egyptian  tablets  were,  no  doubt,  made  in  the 
time  of  Sesostris,  for  Herodotus  says  that  “ Sesostris, 
according  to  the  account  of  the  priests,  on  his  return 
from  his  conquests  on  the  Red  Sea,  led  a mighty  army 
by  land  through  Asia,  and  into  Europe,  reducing  and 
subduing  all  the  nations  which  he  met  on  his  march. 
He  erected  columns  in  the  conquered  countries,  on 
which  lie  inscribed  his  name  and  that  of  his  nation, 
and  how  the  countries  had  been  conquered  by  the 
force  of  his  arms.’’  He  further  says  : — “The  greater 
part  of  these  pillars  which  Sesostris  erected  in  places 
which  he  conquered,  are  no  longer  to  be  found;  some 
of  them  I myself  saw  in  Palestine  and  Syria,  v’th  in- 
scriptions which  I have  before  mentioned.”  There  is 
a slight  appearance  of  hieroglyphic  characters  up  m 
these  tablets ; but  they  are  not  now  sufficiently  dis- 
tinct to  be  deciphered,  as  they  were  at  the  time  He- 
rodotus saw  them. 

After  we  had  examined  with  much  attention  these 
interesting  relics  of  a past  age,  we  descended  the  hill 
to  a stone  bridge  of  three  arches,  which  was  appar- 


244 


EXCURSION  TO  DOG  RIVER. 


ently  as  fresh  and  fair  as  on  the  day  of  its  erection, 
centuries  ago.  It  may  have  been  used,  when  first 
constructed,  for  wheel  carriages  ; but  that  it  has  not 
for  many  years  been  thus  employed  is  evident  from 
the  fact  that  there  are  no  vehicles  in  the  country. 

Our  attention  was  next  called  to  an  ancient  aque- 
duct, built,  I have  no  doubt,  at  the  same  time  the 
road  and  bridge  were  constructed,  and  which  is  still 
in  a good  state  of  preservation.  The  only  use  to 
which  the  water  that  now  flows  in  it  is  applied,  is  to 
drive  several  small  grist-mills  near  the  sea  shore. 

Our  party,  after  having  examined  carefully  these 
interesting  antiquities,  enjoyed  a pic-nic  entertain- 
ment on  the  banks  of  the  river,  in  full  view  of  the 
Mediterranean.  Here  we  were  served,  by  the  atten- 
dants who  accompanied  us  for  this  purpose  from 
Beirout,  with  all  the  delicacies  which  the  country  af- 
fords, including  several  choice  native  wines;  as  also 
some  from  the  island  of  Cyprus.  The  latter  is  much 
appreciated  here,  and  has  a classical  reputation 
abroad.  During  the  entertainment,  one. of  the  ladies 
favored  the  party  with  the  ballad  of  “ My  Mother’s 
Bible,”  written  by  our  best  and  noblest  lyric  poet, 
General  George  P.  Morris,  whose  numerous  songs 
and  ballads  have  found  sweet  singers  in  every  quar- 
ter of  the  globe.  This  ballad,  so  touching  in  its  char- 
acter, and  suggestive  of  home  scenes,  was  received 
with  swelling  hearts  and  moist  eyes  by  many  of  those 
who  heard  it.  Upon  its  conclusion,  we  rose  from  our 
seats  and  drank  the  health  of  its  distinguished  author 
in  a flowing  bumper. 

We  encountered,  on  our  return  to  Beirout,  a large 
body  of  Ottoman  troops,  clad  in  a uniform  not  un- 
like that  of  European  troops.  Their  baggage  and 
provisions  were  carried  on  the  backs  of  camels.  I 
observed,  as  we  rode  along,  several  of  the  camels 
struggling  in  the  quicksands  on  the  beach,  into  which 


FROM  BETROUT  TO  TRIPOLI. 


245 


they  had  sunk  under  their  heavy  burdens,  and  from 
which  they  were  obliged  to  be  drawn  by  the  soldiers. 
The  officers,  very  civilly,  ordered  their  troops  to  make 
way  for  us  as  our  party  passed  them  on  the  march, 
and  testified  their  approbation  at  the  ease  and  skill 
with  which  our  ladies  guided  their  spirited  and  well- 
trained  Arabians. 


CHAPTER  LIII. 

FROM  BEIROUT  TO  TRIPOLI. 

Departure  from  Beirout- Captain  Passeragoroff—  Honors  Paid  tJs  by  an  Ame- 
rican Vessel— Stars  and  Stripes— Passengers— Lebanon  Mountains— Rus 
sian  Steamers — Tripoli — Fortifications— Orchards— Druses  and  Maronites— 
Land  of  Promise. 

We  left  our  comfortable  hotel  at  Beirout  on  the 
eighteenth  of  June,  at  five  o’clock  p.  m.,  accompanied 
by  our  host,  for  the  Russian  steamer  Pallas,  under 
the  command  of  Captain  Passeragoroff,  bound  for 
Constantinople.  The  steamer  was  to  sail  at  seven 
o’clock  the  same  evening;  but,  owing  to  the  necessary 
repairing  of  a leak  in  the  boiler,  which  had  fortu- 
nately been  discovered  prior  to  the  time  of  starting, 
we  did  not  leave  until  one  o’clock  the  following  day. 

As  our  steamer  turned  her  course  seaward,  the 
captain  of  a fine  American  vessel  from  Boston,  whom 
I had  met  at  the  office  of  the  •United  States  Consu- 
late at  Beirout,  and  whose  bark  lay  at  anchor  near 
our  steamer,  lowered,  or  dipped,  the  American  flag 
several  times  in  compliment  to  us,  and  in  order  to 
bid  us  adieu.  Our  attention  was  directed  to  this  pro- 
ceeding by  the  captain  of  the  steamer,  whereupon 
my  daughter  and  myselt  went  aft,  and  waved  our 
handkerchiefs  in  return  for  the  honor  paid  to  us. 

It  seemed  to  me,  that  at  no  time  in  the  course  of 


246 


FROM  BEIROUT  TO  TRIPOLI. 


my  life,  had  the  sight  of  the  Stars  and  Stripes  of  my 
country  ever  had  so  cheering  an  effect  on  my  spirits, 
as  when,  on  that  occasion,  they  rose  and  fell  before 
my  eyes,  their  beauty  undimmed,  their  number  un- 
broken. It  caused  me  to  feel  that  even  in  that  re- 
mote part  of  the  Old  World,  I was  still  under  the 
protection  of  my  beloved  country.  I had  seen  that 
flag  borne  aloft  in  the  smoke  of  battle,  and  watched 
its  unfolding  in  the  breeze  of  peace ; but  never  had 
my  heart  before  so  warmed  at  the  sight  of  it.  This 
compliment  was  afterward  often  referred  to  by  the 
other  passengers  in  the  course  of  conversation  as  a 
pleasing  incident. 

Among  the  few  first-class  cabin  passengers  on  board 
of  the  steamer,  was  a Russian  princess,  a most  accom- 
plished and  elegant  lady;  a pasha  of  one  of  the  prov- 
inces of  the  Ottoman  empire;  and  four  learned  pro- 
fessors, who  had  been  sent  out  by  their  respective 
governments  for  scientific  purposes,  and  in  search  of 
ancient  manuscripts.  We  passed  our  time  most  hap- 
pily, in  this  reiined  and  agreeable  society,  during  our 
long  voyage,  the  passengers  all  speaking  the  French 
languag  * fluently 

Besides  these  passengers,  the  second  cabin  and  the 
steerage  contained  a large  number;  while,  on  the 
quarter-deck,  were  between  twenty  and  thirty  fami- 
lies of  Mussulmans — some  of  them  with  two  wives, 
and  others  with  many  more.  The  faces  of  the  wives, 
and  even  the  black  maid-servants,  were  shrouded 
with  thin  veils.  These  people  reclined  in  rows  on  the 
deck  upon  their  matting  and  cushions,  and.  covered 
themselves  with  blankets,  which  sufficiently  kept  from 
them  the  night  dews.  They  lay  with  their  feet  rest- 
ing against  the  sides  of  the*  vessel,  and  their  heads 
toward  the  centre  of  the  deck.  None  of  them  entered 
into  either  cabin,  but  remained  on  the  outside  both 
night  and  day. 


FROM  BEIROUT  TO  TRIPOLI. 


217 


We  reached  Tripoli,  in  Syria,  the  evening  of  the 
same  day  we  left  Beirout.  The  Lebanon  Mountains 
rise  precipitately  from  the  shore  for  nearly  the  who!e 
distance,  and  their  towering  summits,  covered  with 
ice  and  snow,  form  a grand  and  imposing  feature  of 
the  scene) y.  The  road,  or  rather  bridle-path,  between 
Beirout  and  Tripoli  passes  along  the  beach,  and  over 
occasional  spurs  of  the  mountain  where  it  projects 
into  the  sea. 

The  Russian  line  of  steamers  stop  at  all  the  towns 
on  the  coast  of  Syria  and  Asia  Minor,  in  order  to  take 
in  and  discharge  passengers  and  freight.  For  this, 
and  other  reasons  which  might  be  named,  this  route 
is  preferred  by  all  tourists  who  desire  to  view  this 
classical  coast  and  the  numerous  ancient  cities  on  its 
line,  the  greater  portion  of  which  are  now,  however, 
in  ruins.  The  captain  of  our  vessel  extended  every 
indulgence  to  his  passengers  to  enable  them  to  exam- 
ine, at  the  various  stopping  places,  such  objects  as  are 
deserving  of  consideration.  The  Russian  and  Prus- 
sian Consuls,  wherever  we  stopped,  united  with  the 
captain  in  extending  civilities  to  us  which  we  proba- 
bly would  not  have  received  had  we  taken  any  other 
line. 

Tripoli,  anciently  Tripolis,  is  the  capital  of  a pacha- 
lic  ot  the  same  name,  in  Syria,  and  is  distant  from 
Damascus  seventy-live  miles,  and  from  Beirout  forty 
miles.  It  is  situated  on  both  sides  of  the  river  Kadi- 
sha,  at  the  foot  of  the  branches  of  the  Lebanon 
Mountains,  and  on  the  edge  of  a small  triangular  plain, 
which  extends  between  them  and  the  sea.  In  its 
vicinity  are  numerous  orchards  of  kmons,  oranges, 
apricots,  and  apples,  and  the  plain  is  covered  with 
mulberry-trees,  which  support  the  silk  worms — the 

Eroduction  of  silk  being  the  staple  of  Tripoli.  The 
ouses  are  of  stone,  and  are  large  and  convenient. 
The  landing-place  is  two  miles  from  the  city,  where 


248 


FROM  BEIROUT  TO  TRIPOLI. 


there  is  a small  town  called  El  Mina.  There  is  no 
harbor,  but  a roadstead,  defended  from  the  action  of 
the  sea  by  islands.  The  country  in  the  immedate 
vicinity  of  the  city  is  strown  witli  ruins. 

The  town  was  destroyed  by  the  Mussnlmen  in 
1289,  after  a siege  of  thirty-five  da  vs.  The  victorious 
army  entered  the  city,  fire  and  sword  in  hand,  and 
seven  thousand  Christians  fell  under  the  arm  of  the 
conqueror,  while  all  the  women  and  children  were 
carried  away  into  slavery.  Not  only  was  the  popu- 
lation exterminated,  but  the  sultan  gave  orders  to 
burn  and  demolish  the  city  ; and  the  ruins  at  this 
present  time  show  how  faithfully  his  commands  were 
executed.  The  rich  and  gorgeous  palaces  and  public 
edifices,  for  which  the  place  was  distinguished,  with 
its  numerous  silk  manufactories,  where  upward  of 
four  thousand  looms  were  in  daily  operation,  and 
which  were  famed  for  producing  the  finest  and  rich- 
est kind  of  silk  fabrics,  were  also  broken  up  and. 
totally  destroved.  The  towers  and  lortitications  which 
surrounded  the  town  on  all  sides,  and  which  were 
deemed  impregnable,  met  with  a like  disastrous  fate  ; 
for  there  now  is  only  one  dilapidated  fortress  remain- 
ing, and  that  was  built  by  Count  Raymond  in  the 
twelfth  century.  It  is  now  all  that  remains  for  the 
defence  of  the  place. 

The  population  of  this  once  large  and  flourishing 
commercial  and  manufacturing  town  is  reduced  to 
sixteen  thousand  souls,  and  these  are  composed  of 
various  nations ; but  Greeks  and  Turks  form  the 
bulk  of  the  inhabitants,  as  they  do  of  most  of  the 
cities  of  Syria.  The  only  tribes  which  can  be  consid- 
ered as  peculiar  to  Syria  are  the  tenants  of  the  heights 
of  Lebanon,  the  most  remarkable  of  which  are  the 
Druses  and  Maronites.  These  tribes  often  engage  in 
cruel  wars  with  each  other  on  account  of  their  reli- 
gion. The  language  of  the  whole  country  is  Arabic, 


FROM  BEIROUT  TO  TRIPOLI. 


249 


but  the  soldiers  and  civil  officers  of  the  government 
speak  that  of  Turkey.  I am  told  that  no  traces  of  the 
ancient  Syriac  language  remain  in  the  country. 

It  was  on  the  sea-coast.,  and  in  the  interior,  that 
the  Assyrians,  Jews,  Greeks,  Parthians,  Egyptians, 
Romans,  Saracens,  Crusaders  and  Turks,  struggled 
at  different  periods  for  possession  of  the  country. 
Here  Ninns,  Semiramis,  Sesostris,  Alexander  the 
Great,  Pompey,  Antony,  Caesar,  Titus,  Aurelian, 
Godfrey  of  Bouillon,  Richard  Coeur  de  Lion,  Saladin, 
Napoleon,  Mahomet  Ali,  and  others,  in  turn,  led 
powerful  armies  against  the  Syrians,  whose  territory 
extended  from  the  Tarsus  Mountains  on'  the  north  to 
Arabia  Petraea  on  the  south,  and  to  the  Euphrates 
and  Great  Arabian  Desert  on  the  east.  The  southern 
portion  of  this  country  was  the  Scripture  “land  of 
promise,”  the  home  of  the  Israelites  and  the  cradle 
of  Christianity.  It  was  this  once  beautiful  region, 
with  the  numerous  commercial  towns  on  the  sea- 
board and  the  wealthy  cities  of  Damascus,  Baalbec, 
Palmyra,  and  Antioch,  that  excited  the  cupidity  of 
these  warriors,  and  led  them  to  overrun  the  land  with 
their  armies,  and  after  devastating  it  with  fire  and 
sword,  to  leave  it  in  ruins;  in  which  condition,  at 
this  present  time,  it  still  remains.  Such  are  the  sad 
results  which  wars  have  produced  on  this  ancient 
and  once  powerful  country  ; and  such,  in  short,  will 
ever  be  the  result  upon  all  states  and  kingdoms  where 
wars  sweep  over  the  land.  That  my  country  may 
be  preserved  from  such  a fate  shall  be  my  prayer 
through  life. 


11* 


250 


FROM  TRIPOLI  TO  LATAKIA. 


CHAPTER  LIV. 


FROM  TRIPOLI  TO  LATAKIA. 


Fertility  of  Syria— Hospitable  Greek— Cyprus— A Greek  See— View  from  the 
City — Entertainment  by  the  Russian  Consul — Also  by  the  Prussian  Con- 
sul— A Charming  Feast — Loaves  for  Plates — Farewell  Antioch — Selucia— 
The  Apostles. 


The  country  of  Syria,  at  this  day,  is  as  capable  as 
it  ever  was  of  producing  the  large  crops  for  which  it 
was  once  famous.  All  that  is  necessary  to  effect  this 
result,  and  to  encourage  the  laboring  classes,  is  a 
stable  government.  Its  valleys  are  most  fertile,  and 
will  yield,  when  cultivated,  an  abundant  supply  of 
grain,  tobacco,  cotton,  and  fruits  of  all  kinds. 

We  received,  during  our  stay  in  Tripoli,  an  invita- 
tion to  an  entertainment  given  by  a wealthy  Greek. 
Ilis  wife  presided  in  a most  gracious  manner,  and 
evinced,  by  her  bearing,  that  she  was  not  only  a 
highly  educated  and  accomplished  lady,  but  possess- 
ing refined  and  elegant  tastes.  AYe  were  served  with 
all  the  delicacies  which  the  East  affords,  and  which 
are  usually  offered  to  guests  on  such  occasions.  Two 
of  her  children  attired  in  the  Grecian  costume,  were 
presented  to  us,  and  were  told  that  we  were  strangers 
from  a far  distant  land.  They  were  permitted  to  re- 
main in  the  room  with  11s,  and  behaved  in  a most 
charming  mannei. 

AYhen  our  vessel  had  received  on  board  its  cargo, 
we  immediately  sailed  for  Latakia.  Our  course  lay 
between  the  island  of  Cyprus  and  the  main-land,  and 
for  a part  of  the  way  that  beautiful  and  classic  isle 
was  in  full  view. 


FROM  TRIPOLI  TO  LATAKIA. 


251 


As  soon  as  the  steamer  cast  anchor  in  the  harbor 
at  Latakia,  the  freight  to  be  landed  was  removed  into 
lighters,  which  came  along-side  for  that  purpose. 
The  passengers  availed  themselves  of  the  opportunity 
thus  presented  to  visit  the  city  and  neighboring  coun- 
try. Latakia,  anciently  Laodicea,#is  a seaport  town 
of  Syria,  one  hundred  miles  north  of  Tripoli,  and  sev^ 
enty  south  of  Antiochus.  It  is  a Greek  bishop  See, 
and  is  situated  at  the  base  of  a small  promontory, 
projecting  into  the  Mediterranean.  The  town  is  at 
least  two  miles  from  the  harbor.  Tobacco  is  raised 
here  to  a large  extent,  and  is,  indeed,  the  staple  com- 
modity. The  place  is  subject  to  violent  earthquakes; 
one,  in  1796,  destroyed  a great  part  of  the  town  and 
two  thousand  of  its  inhabitants  were  killed.  In  1822 
another  overthrew  a third  part  of  the  buildings.  Tne 
view,  from  the  city,  of  the  sea  and  surrounding  coun- 
try, is  very  beautiful.  The  buildings  are  chiefly  of 
stone,  and  are  well  constructed.  Sparkling  fountains 
are  to  be  met  with  in  the  better  class  of  buildings, 
diffusing  a refreshing  coolness  throughout  the  apart- 
ments. - The  mode  of  living  of  the  inhabitants  is  in 
keeping  with  the  style  of  their  dwellings,  and  they 
possess  the  manners  of  those  accustomed  to  the  ele- 
gances and  refinements  of  social  life. 

We  received  while  here  an  invitation  to  an  enter- 
tainment at  the  Russian  Consul’s.  Horses  were  sent 
to  the  wharf  for  us,  and  we  were  welcomed  to  the 
elegant  mansion  of  the  Consul  in  a most  cordial  man- 
ner. Here  we  met  the  Bishop  of  the  See,  the  Amer- 
ican Consul,  and  a large  number  of  fashionable  peo- 
ple. A dejeuntr  4 la  fourchette,  in  the  Oriental  style, 
was  served  to  the  guests.  We  also  received,  while  in 
Latakia,  an  invitation  to  visit  the  gardens  of  the 
Prussian.  Consul,  whose  wife,  a Greek  lady,  possesses 
most  captivating  and  lovely  manners. 

We  left  the  city  shortly  after  breakfast  with  a com- 


252 


ER0M  TRIPOLI  TO  LATAKIA. 


pany  of  about  sixty  ladies  and  gentlemen,  for  tbe  re- 
sidence of  the  consul.  A fine  Arabian  horse,  richly 
caparisoned,  and  well  broken  to  the  saddle,  had  been 
set  apart  for  my  own  use,  so  that  I enjoyed  the  ride 
exceedingly.  The  country  vilUof  the  consul  was  four 
miles  from  the  city,  and  the  road  the  entire  distance 
perfectly  smooth  and  level.  Every  gentleman  was 
attended  by  a serving-man,  who  ran  by  the  horse’s 
In  aid,  and  the  ladies  were  each  furnished  with  two. 
The  grounds  of  the  consul  were  handsomely  and 
tastefully  laid  out,  and  the  basin  of  a noble  fountain 
was  constantly  kept  filled  with  water,  which  is  used 
to  irrigate  the  garden ; without  which  assistance  no- 
thing  will  grow  in  this  climate,  owing  to  the  scarcity 
of  rain.  The  consul  has  devoted  much  time  and 
labor  to  the  cultivation  and  embellishment  of  the 
grounds  surrounding  his  beautiful  mansion.  We 
were  conducted  through  his  extensive  orchards,  the 
trees  of  which  were  loaded  with  fruits  of  many  varie- 
ties, and  of  the  choicest  kinds,  which  we  plucked  at 
pleasure.  While  we  were  occupied  in  rambling  about, 
preparations  were  made  by  skilful  cooks,  brought 
from  the  city  for  the  purpose,  for  a grand  feast.  Two 
fattened  wethers  were  slaughtered  and  roasted  whole; 
game  and  fowl  of  every  description,  prepared  in  a 
variety  of  ways,  with  other  dishes,  were  also  served.  A 
table  was  placed  beneath  the  wide-spreading  branches 
of  several  olive-trees,  standing  close  together,  in  order 
to  protect  the  company  from  the  heat  of  the  mid- 
day sun  ; orange  leaves  were  scattered  over  the  table 
instead  of  a cloth  ; plates,  knives,  and  silver  forks 
were  provided  for  the  European  part  of  the  company, 
and  rural  benches  for  seats.  To  these  seats  we  were 
conducted  with  great  ceremony,  while  the  natives  sat 
upon  the  ground  in  a line  with  the  table.  The  bread, 
which  is  of  an  excellent  quality,  not  only  served  them 
for  food,  but  also  supplied  the  place  of  plates.  The 


FROM  TRIPOLI  TO  LATAKIA, 


253 


bread  consisted  of  round  cakes,  at  least  a foot  in  di- 
ameter, and  readily  lield  the  food  placed  upon  it. 

About  sixty  persons  sat  down  to  this  entertain- 
ment, each  having  a servant  near  by  to  attend  to  iiis 
wants.  The  mutton  seemed  to  be  superior  to  any  I 
had  ever  before  eaten,  which  may  have  been  owing 
either  to  the  manner  it  was  cooked,  or  to  the  rare 
appetite  which  my  ride  had  given  me.  We  were  also 
served  with  various  delicacies  of  the  country,  and  some 
excellent  wines.  There  was  such  genuine  hospitality 
extended  to  us  on  this  occasion,  that  I never  enjoyed 
an  entertainment  of  a like  character  more  in  my  life. 
An  hour  before  sundown,  our  horses  were  brought  to 
us,  and  we  were  escorted  tc  the  harbor  by  the  entire 
company,  who,  in  taking  leave  of  us,  wished  us 
health  and  happiness,  and  a safe  return  to  our  re- 
spective countries. 

Late  that  night  we  resumed  our  voyage,  passing 
the  celebrated  river  Orontes,  at  its  confluence  with 
the  sea,  about  ten  o’clock,  a.  m.,  of  the  following  day. 
It  is  on  the  banks  of  this  river,  twenty  miles  from  its 
mouth  that  the  ancient  city  of  Antioch  is  situated, 
once  greater  and  richer  than  Rome  itself,  and  which 
was  called  the  Queen  of  the  East ; but  often  over- 
thrown by  earthquakes,  and,  finally,  in  1269,  levelled 
to  the  ground  by  the  Mamelukes.  It  was  founded 
by  Antigonus,  a Macedonian,  and  a general  in  the 
army  of  Alexander  the  Great.  It  was  captured  by 
Seieucus  in  301  b.  c.,  and  rebuilt  by  him  with  great 
magnificence.  In  one  day  one  hundred  thousand  ot 
its  people  were  slain  by  the  Jews,  one  hundred  and 
forty-fiveyears  before  Christ.  It  was  long  celebrated 
as  being  one  of  the  first  cities  of  the  East.  It  is  fre- 
quently mentioned  in  the  New  Testament,  and  the 
name  of  Christians  was  first  given  to  the  disciples  of 
our  Saviour  in  this  city.  Its  population  is  now  less 
than  twenty  thousand. 


254: 


ALEXANDRETTA  AND  TAR9US. 


We  soon  came  in  view  of  the  city  of  Selucia,  or  all 
that  remains  of  it.  It  was  five  miles  north  of  the 
Orontes.  This  was  the  port  of  Antioch,  as  was.  Ostia 
of  Home.  A rocky  eminence,  the  termination  of  a 
range  of  hills  called  the  Pieria,  forms  a picturesque 
site  for  the  town,  and  overlooks  the  harbor.  Here  at 
Seleucia,  “ in  the  midst  of  unsympathizing  sailors,  the 
two  missionary  apostles,  with  their  younger  compan- 
ions, stepped  on  board  the  vessel  which  was  to  convey 
them  to  Salamis.”  With  a fair  wind,  a few  hours 
would  enable  them  to  run  from  Selucia  to  Salamis. 
The  companions  of  Paul,  in  this  tour,  were  John,  Mark, 
the  Evangelist,  and  Barnabas,  who  was  a native  of 
Cyprus,  whither  they  were  bound. 


CHAPTER  LY. 


ALEXANDRETTA  AND  TARSUS. 


Seaport  of  Aleppo— Issus— Alexander  the  Great— Battle  with  the  Persians — 
Colton’s  Atlas — Mersin — River  Cyduus — Tomb  of  Sardanapulas — Tarsus — 
Cleopatra — Her  Visit  to  Antony — Mountain  Passes. 


We  arrived  at  Alexandretta,  situated  on  the  Isken- 
derun,  formerly  called  Issus  Bay,  on  the  following 
morning.  This  is  the  seaport  of  Aleppo,  and  the 
nearest  point  from  the  sea-coast  to  the  Euphrates,  be- 
ing distant  from  the  latter  only  seventy  miles,  which 
may  be  travelled  with  ease  in  three  days.  It  is  a 
small  town,  but  is  interesting,  however,  on  account 
of  its  being  within  sight  of  the  great  battle-field  of 
Issus,  where  Alexander  the  Great,  with  an  army  of 
only  thirty  thousand  men,  totally  defeated  the  Per- 
sians, six  hundred  thousand  strong,  commanded  by 
Darius.  According  to  PJutarch  the  loss  of  the  Per- 


ALEXANDRETTA  AND  TARSUS. 


255 


sians  was  one  hundred  thousand  foot,  and  ten  thou- 
sand horsemen.  This  battle  occurred  in  333  b.  c. 

While  Alexander  was  at  Tarsus,  he  detailed  a gen- 
eral with  a part  of  his  army  to  seize  the  pass  of  Syria, 
in  order  to  secure  it  for  his  march.  This  pass  is  at 
the  head  of  the  bay,  and  lies  between  the  foot  of  the 
Taurus  Mountains  and  the  sea.  It  is  so  very  narrow, 
that  a small  body  of  disciplined  troops  could  hold  it 
against  any  number  of  undisciplined,  particularly 
such  as  composed  the  Persian  army.  At  the  north 
of  the  pass  lies  the  country  of  Cilicia,  and  at  the  south 
Syria. 

The  battle-ground  was  barely  wide  enough  for  a 
small  army  to  act  and  move ; so  that,  although  Alex- 
ander had  room  enough  to  manoeuvre  his  entire  army, 
the  Persians  had  not  space  for  the  twentieth  part  of 
their  forces.  This  circumstance  placed,  in  some 
measure,  the  two  armies  on  an  equality.  The  battle- 
ground lay  near  the  city  of  Issus.  The  right  of  Al- 
exander’s army  rested  beside  the  mountains,  and  the 
left  on  the  sea  shore. 

I was  glad  to  have  an  opportunity,  while  our  ves- 
sel was  taking  in  freight,  to  make  myself  acquainted 
with  the  position  and  form  of  this  great  battle-held, 
so  celebrated  in  the  world’s  history.  The  result  of 
this  victory  for  Alexander  was  to  open  the  way  for 
Jiis  unparalleled  success  with  the  nations  of  the  East 
which  so  rapidly  followed  this  event. 

The  steamer,  having  received  its  complement  of 
freight  and  passengers,  started  on  its  voyage  early  in 
the  afternoon.  Our  course  lay  toward  the  south, 
passing  down  this  great  arm  of  the  sea,  or  bay,  which 
is  over  fifty  miles  in  extent.  The  bay  is  correctly 
laid  down  on  the  charts  we  had  on  board  ; but  those 
I had  examined  in  the  United  States  are  far  from  be- 
ing correct  in  this  respect.  Mr.  Colton’s  Atlas,  how- 
ever, contains  a map  of  it  nearer  the  truth  than  any 


256 


ALEXANDRETTA  AND  TARSUS. 


other  1 had  seen.  Cilicia  lies  on  the  right  as  we  sailed 
down  the  bay,  and  Syria,  which  we  were  about  to 
leave,  on  the  left.  The  sea  being  calm,  and  the  weather 
exceedingly  pleasant,  we  passed  most  of  our  time  on 
deck,  examining  everything  we  could  discover  upon 
the  shores  on  both  sides.  There  were  on  board  the 
steamer  several  intelligent  merchants  from  Aleppo, 
who  were  on  their  way  to  London  on  a trading  voy- 
age. From  these  gentlemen  I derived  much  valuable 
information  respecting  their  beautiful  country. 

We  did  not  reach  the  end  of  the  bay  until  after  ten 
o’clock  p.  m.,  which  late  hour  deprived  us  of  the  view 
of  the  promontory  around  which  we  sailed  into  the 
open  sea  again.  Soon  after  breakfast,  on  the  follow- 
ing morning,  our  steamer  reached  the  harbor  of  the 
city  of  Mersin,  in  Cilicia.  It  is  a small  town,  situated 
on  the  coast,  and  is  the  seaport  of  all  that  remains  of 
Tarsus.  The  site  of  that  ancient  city  is  within  five 
miles  of  this  port,  and  can  be  seen  distinctly  from  the 
deck  of  passing  vessels.  Its  situation  is  enchautingly 
beautiful.  It  lies  at  the  foot  of  a range  of  mountains, 
projecting  into  the  great  plain  which  forms  a part  of 
the  Taurus  chain.  The  plain  stretches  out  several 
miles  on  the  east,  south,  and  west  sides  of  the  city, 
and  nothing  rises  to  intercept  the  view  of  it  from  the 
port. 

The  celebrated  river  Cydnus,  which  runs  through 
Tarsus,  winds  its  way  across  these  plains  to  the  sea. 
Tarsus  is  said  by  Strabo  to  have  been  founded  by 
Sardanapalus  ; and  we  are  also  informed  by  Rollin, 
that  when  Alexander  the  Great  passed  at  the  head  of 
his  army  through  Anchiala,  the  tomb  of  Sardanapa- 
lus was  then  to  be  seen  in  that  city,  bearing  this  in- 
scription : — “ Sardanapalus  built  Anchiala  and  Tarsus 
in  one  day  : Go,  passenger,  eat,  drink  and  rejoice,  for 
the  rest  is  nothing.” 

Tarsus  was  afterward  adorned  by  numerous  mag 


ALEXANDRETTA  AND  TARSUS. 


257 


nificent  temples,  as  well  as  with  a gymnasium  and 
theatre.  Its  inhabitants  enjoyed  the  privilege  of  Ro- 
man citizens,  and  the  city  rose  to  great  distinction, 
and  uecame  so  celebrated  for  learning  and  refine- 
ment, that  it  was  deemed  the  rival  of  Athens,  Anti- 
och, and  Alexandria,  not  only  in  wealth  and  grand- 
eur, but  in  the  arts  and  sciences.  It  is  venerated  as 
having  been  the  birthplace  of  St.  Paul.  Here,  too, 
he  was  educated  at  its  celebrated  institutions,  and 
bee  one  the  most  learned  man  of  his  day,  if  not  the 
most  learned  the  world  ever  produced.  It  was  here 
that  Alexander  the  Great  came  near  losing  his  life  by 
bathing,  when  over-heated,  in  the  cold  water  of  the 
Gy dnus.  Here,  too,  it  was  that  Cleopatra  visited  An- 
tony after  the  battle  of  Philippi,  in  all  the  pomp  and 
pageantry  of  the  oriental  fashion.  She  was  then  but 
twenty-live  years  of  age,  and,  as  the  historians  of  the 
day  inform  us,  combined,  with  extraordinary  beauty, 
great  wit  and  the  highest  elegance  of  manner.  She 
appeared  on  that  occasion  in  a magnificently  decor- 
ated barge,  which,  as  Shakespeare  says  : — 

“ Like  a burnished  throne, 

Burned  on  the  water  : the  poop  was  beaten  gold  : 

Purple  the  sails,  and  so  perfumed  that 

The  winds  were  lovesick  with  them:  the  oars  were  silver  ; 

Which  to  the  tune  of  llutes  kept  stroke,  and  made 
The  water,  which  they  beat,  to  follow  faster. 

As  amorous  of  their  strokes.  For  her  own  person 
It  beggared  all  description  : she  did  lie 
In  her  pavillion,  (cloth  of  gold,  of  tissue,) 

O’er-picturing  that  Venus,  where  we  see, 

The  fancy  outwork  nature  : on  each  side  her 
Stood  pretty  dimpled  boys,  like  smiling  Cupids, 

With  diverse-colored  fans,  whose  wind  did  seem 
To  glow  the  delicate  cheeks  which  they  did  cool, 

And  what  they  undid,  did. 

Her  gentlewomen,  like  the  Nereids, 

So  many  mermaids,  tended  her  i’  the  eyes, 

And  made  their  bends  adornings  : at  the  helm 
A seeming  mermaid  steers  ; the  silken  tackle 
Swell  with  the  touches  of  those  flower-soft  hands, 

That  yarely  frame  the  office.  From  the  barge 
A strange  invisible  perfume  hits  the  sense 
Of  the  adjacent  wharves.” 


158 


JERUSALEM. 


semane,  Siloam,  and  Kedron.  The  northern  part  of 
it  is  called  Jehoshaphat,  and  the  southern  portion 
Kedron.  All  travellers  visit  this  valley  with  great 
interest.  It  varies  in  width  from  four  to  six  hundred 
fe$t.  The  widest  part  is  at  the  southern  extremity 
where  lie  the  king’s  gardens.  Tradition  informs  us 
that  these  gardens  were  laid  out  with  much  taste,  and 
covered  with  groves  and  flowering  shrubs ; but  at 
present  only  a few  old  trees  remain  of  all  its  former 
magnificence.  These  gardens  were  irrigated  by  the 
waters  of  the  pool  of  Siloam,  as  related  in  the  third 
chapter  of  Kehemiah,  thus  showing  that  this  pool  is 
of  a very  ancient  date,  and  that  the  entrance  to  it 
from  the  city  of  David  was  by  a private  stairway. 
The  walls  of  the  city  have  undergone  great  changes 
since  that  period,  but  this  celebrated  pool  still  re- 
mains, at. the  junction  of  the  Hinnom  with  the  Kedron 
valley,  at  the  foot  of  the  Mount  of  Ophel. 

It  was  of  the  fountain  of  Siloam  that  our  Saviour 
said,  addressing  the  man  who  had  been  blind  from  his 
birth,  “ Go,  wash  in  the  pool  of  Siloam  from  whence 
he  returned  with  his  sight  restored.  Here,  too,  stood 
the  tower  of  Siloam,  which,  falling,  killed  eighteen 
men.  It  was  near  this  pool,  when  Jesus  was  told  of 
the  Galileans,  whose  blood  Pilate  had  mingled  with 
liis  sacrifices,  he  made  use  of  these  memorable  words : 
— “Suppose  ye,  that  these  Galileans  were  sinners 
above  all  Galileans,  because  they  suffered  such  things? 
I tell  ye  nay;  but  except  ye  repent,  ye  shall  all  like- 
wise perish.”  It  is  impossible  for  any  one  to  visit  so- 
venerated  a shrine  without  feelings  of  the  deepest 
emotion. 

I ascended  the  hill  of  Ophel,  on  one  occasion,  from, 
this  pool ; there  is  no  regular  pathway,  but  as,  the  ac- 
cent is  a gentle  one,  the  distance  being  about  siixteen. 
hundred  feet,  I experienced  no  difficulty  in-  making 
my  way.  The  thermometer,  I found,  ob* reaching  th& 


JERUSALEM. 


159 


top,  stood  at  eighty-five  degrees.  From  this  point  I 
obtained  several  fine  views  of  the  valley  and  the  sur- 
rounding country. 

But  to  return  to  the  narrative  of  my  walk  up  the 
celebrated  valley.  On  proceeding  a short  distance 
beyond  the  pool,  I came  to  the  Mount  of  Corruption, 
Scandal,  or  Offence,  situated  on  the  southern  slope  of 
the  Mount  of  Olives..  It  was  here  that  Solomon,  in 
his  old  age,  became  as  ingloriously  distinguished  for 
his  effeminacy  and  folly  as  in  his  youth  he  was  re- 
nowned for  his  wisdom.  Here  he  built  a high  place 
for  Chemoh,  the  abomination  of  Moab  and  Moloch,  of 
the  children  of  Ammon,  and  likewise  for  all  his  wives, 
who  burnt  incense  and  sacrifices  unto  their  strange 
gods.  This  place  is  now  the  site  of  Siloam,  doubtless 
called  so  in  consequence  of  its  being  situated  opposite 
the  fountain  of  that  name.  Sometimes,  however,  it 
is  called  the  Sepulchral  village.  I think,  myself,  it 
might,  with  propriety,  still  be  called  the  Place  of 
Abomination,  for  its  present  inhabitants  are  nor,  es- 
teemed the  most  honest  in  Judea.  The  sepulchres 
cut  in  the  solid  rock  at  this  spot  are  now  used  as  pla- 
ces of  abode  by  the  villagers.  I passed  on  foot  with 
much  difficulty  through  this  village,  in  descending, 
on  one  occasion,  the  Mount  of  Olives.  There  is  no 
regular  street  or  path  through  it.  Its  dwellings  rise 
step-wise  on  the  side  of  the  mountain,  which,  in  some 
places,  is  quite  precipitous. 

After  leaving  this  village,  I passed  up  the  valley  to 
the  Fountain  of  the  Yirgin,  or  King’s  Pool,  situated 
on  the  eastern  side  of  the  hill  of  Ophel,  below  the 
south-east  angle  of  the  walls  of  the  city.  There  are 
some  persons  who  maintain  that  it  is  the  pool  of  Be- 
thesda,  because  of  its  being  an  intermittent  fountain, 
rising  and  falling  at  irregular  intervals,  which  they 
say  were  indicative  of  the  u troubling  of  the  waters.5’ 
These  waters,  though  slightly  saline,  are  constantly 


260 


RHODES  AND  SCIO. 


CHAPTER  LYI. 

RHODES  AND  SCIO. 

City  of  Rhodes— Its  Former  Greatness — Seat  of  Ancient  Wars — Sieges  it  has 
Undergone — JEgean  Sea — Disconsolate  Artemisia — Mausolus — Temple  of 
Diana— Isle  of  Chios — Greek  and  Turkman — Marco  Bozzaris — Halleck’a 
Noble  Tribute — Scio. 

The  ancient  city  of  Rhodes  still  stands  on  the  same 
site  where  it  was  first  founded,  four  hundred  and  eight 
years  before  the  birth  of  Christ.  It  is  pleasantly  sit- 
uated on  the  northern  point  of  the  island  of  the  same 
name,  opposite  Asia  Minor,  and  within  fifteen  miles 
of  its  shores.  The  town  itself  is  strongly  fortified 
with  three  walls,  and  is  considered,  by  military  men, 
impregnable. 

The  island  is  guarded  along  its  entire  coast  by 
mountains,  which  rise  abruptly  from  the  sea-shore  to 
a great  height,  and  the  only  plateau  of  land  which 
borders  upon  the  sea,  so  far  as  I could  discover,  is  on 
the  north  side,  and  upon  which  the  city  is  built.  The 
largest  portion  of  the  present  town  lies  outside  of  the 
walls,  and  is  connected  by  scattered  resiliences,  with 
several  handsome  villages,  on  its  eastern  side,  which 
Dang,  apparently,  upon  the  side  of  the  mountain. 
The  view  which  we  obtained  from  the  deck  of  our 
vessel,  as  we  were  nearing  the  port,  of  the  villages, 
the  city  itself,  with  its  turreted  walls,  and  the  sur- 
rounding country,  was  exceedingly  beautiful. 

For  several  centuries  this  city  was  celebrated  for 
the  extent  of  its  commerce  and  its  powerful  naval 
force,  which  gave  her  the  command  of  the  seas.  Her 
authority  was  respected  by  all  nations,  and  her  rnari- 


RHODES  AND  SCIO. 


261 


time  code  was  universally  approved  and  used  as  au- 
thority in  deciding  marine  disputes  among  most  of 
the  surrounding  nations,  and  this  now  forms  the  basis 
of  the  maritime  regulations  winch  govern  the  whole 
of  modern  Europe.  At  the  period  when  Rome  was 
the  acknowledged  mistress  of  the  world,  Rhodes  was 
one  of  its  provinces,  and  during  the  war  of  the  Cru- 
sades it  became  particularly  distinguished. 

After  the  Christians  were  driven  from  Palestine, 
the  Knights  Hospitallers  took  up  their  residence  for  a 
short  period  at  Cyprus,  where  they  planned  the  at- 
tack upon  this  island,  and,  under  the  command  of 
their  Grand  Master,  they  successfully  carried  out 
their  purpose.  For  two  centuries  thereafter,  viz.  : 
from  1310  to  1525,  it  remained  the  head-quarters  of 
the  order,  from  whence  went  forth  armies  which  car- 
ried death  and  destruction  to  the  infidels.  Twice  the 
knights,  unaided,  bore  the  shock  of  an  attack  from 
the  entire  forces  of  the  Turkish  empire.  At  the  first 
siege,  the  Turks  were  signally  defeated,  their  loss 
amounting  lo  nine  thousand  killed  and  thirty  thou- 
sand wounded.  In  1522,  when  the  Sultan  Solyman 
besiege  ! it  in  person  at  the  head  of  an  army  of  up- 
ward of  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  men,  it  was 
defended  by  Villiers  de  l’Isle  Adam,  supported  by 
only  six  hundred  knights,  four  thousand  five  hundred 
men-at-arms,  and  a corps  of  volunteer  militia,  with  a 
devotedness  and  bravery  commensurate  with  the  is- 
sue at  stake.  They  fought  with  an  ardor  bordering 
on  enthusiasm;  even  the  women  joined  in  the  battle. 
They  successfully  repelled  every  assault,  and  it  was 
not  until  the  fortifications  were  nearly  demolished, 
and  the  ammunition  and  stores  exhausted,  that 
the  brave  knights  accepted  the  terms  of  honorable 
capitulation  which  the  Tmks  were  glad  to  offer  them. 
This  victory  cost  the  Mahommedans  ..one  hundred 
thousand  men  left  dead  upon  the  field  of  combat. 


262 


RHODES  AND  SCIO. 


The  knights  who  remained  after  the  battle,  accom- 
panied by  four  thousand  Rhodeans,  departed  soon 
afterward  from  this  place,  and  founded  for  themselves 
and  their  subjects  a new  home  on  the  island  of  Malta. 

The  place  where  once  stood  the  great  brazen  col- 
ossus, which  in  its  day  was  esteemed  one  of  the  seven 
wonders  of  the  world,  was  pointed  out  to  me  ; but 
there  are  no  traces  now  remaining  of  it. 

After  leaving  Rhodes,  we  sailed  along  the  coast  of 
the  beautiful  island  of  Cos,  one  of  theSporades  group, 
lying  west  of  the  promontory  of  Doris,  and  renowned 
as  the  birthplace  of  Apelles,  the  great  artist,  and  Hip- 
pocrates, the  celebrated  physician.  From  thence  we 
continued  our  voyage  through  the  charming  group  of 
the  Cyclade  islands,  in  the  H^gean  Sea,  which  sur- 
rounds,  as  with  a girdle,  the  isle  of  Delphos,  and  pass- 
ed between  the  island  of  Patmos,  celebrated  in  sacred 
history  as  having  been  the  place  of  exile  of  St.  John, 
and  the  city  of  Halicarnassus  on  the  continent,  once 
the  residence  of  the  kings  of  Caria.  It  was  in  this 
city  that  the  disconsolate  Artemesia,  three  hundred 
and  three  years  before  Christ,  erected  a monument, 
to  celebrate  the  memory  of  her  deceased  husband 
Mausolus,  whom  she  tenderly  loved,  which,  as  regard- 
ed architectural  beauty  and  magniiicence,  was  so  far 
superior  to  any  ever  before  erected,  as  to  be  included 
among  the  seven  wonders  of  the  age.  This  costly  pile 
was  called  Mausoleum,  in  honor  of  her  deceased  lord, 
and  by  that  name  are  all  costly  tombs  known  even  at 
the  present  day.  Here,  too,  the  celebrated  historian, 
Herodotus,  was  born,  and  Dionysius  and  Heraclitus, 
i remained  gazing  upon  the  site  of  this  interesting 
city  until  the  promontory  of  Doris  intercepted  my 
view  of  it. 

We  continued  our  course  between  the  island  of 
Samos  and  the  ancient  city  of  Ephesus,  once  the  com- 
mercial emporium  of  Asia  Minor.  Here  stood  the 


RHODES  A. NT)  SCIO. 


263 


temple  of  Diana,  which,  for  ages,  was  constantly 
thronged  with  devotees  from  all  parts  of  the  world  ; 
but  now  the  streets  of  this  once  renowned  city,  for- 
merly crowded  with  the  worshippers  of  the  goddess 
Diana,  and  afterward,  when  the  city  became  the  head 
of  the  Apostolic  Church  in  Asia,  filled  by  pilgrims 
from  every  part  of  Christendom,  are  laid  waste  and 
turned  up  by  the  ploughshares  of  Ottoman  serfs ; nor 
is  there  a single  Christian  church  or  an  ancient  struc- 
ture remaining  to  testify  to  its  former  grandeur  and 
magnificence. 

We  stopped  at  the  island  of  Chios.*  the  Scio  of  to- 
day. Its  population  in  1822,  before  the  dreadful  mas- 
sacre of  its  inhabitants  by  the  Turks,  exceeded  one 
hundred  and  fifty  thousand  souls ; and  it  was,  at  that 
date,  one  of  the  best  cultivated  and  most  flourishing 
islands  in  the  Archipelago.  We  were  favored  with 
an  invitation  to  visit  the  ruined  villages  which  were 
destroyed  by  the  Turks  during  that  memorable  war. 
These  commence  at  a short  distance  from  the  port, 
and  extend,  with  small  space  between  each,  for  up- 
ward of  ten  miles  from  the  city.  We  had  an  agree- 
able ride  to  that  point  on  horseback,  and  stopped  at 
various  places  on  the  road  to  examine  the  ruins  scat- 
tered around.  The  dwellings  were  undoubtedly  large 
and  gorgeously  finished,  and  well  calculated  for  the 
entertainment  of  guests,  for  which  hospitable  trait 
the  inhabitants  were  especially  distinguished.  The 
grounds,  in  many  instances,  are  still  surrounded  by 
high  stone  walls,  which  enclosed  the  dwelling,  and 
isolated  it,  to  some  extent,  from  its  neighbor. 
At  least  thirty  thousand  out  of  the  seventy  thousand 
Creeks  who  were  put  to  the  sword,  or  carried  into 
captivity,  or  sold  for  slaves,  during  that  cruel  war, 
resided  in  these  ill-fated  villages. 

The  dilapidated  condition  of  these  once  flourishing 
suburbs  are  calculated  to  excite  the  most  melancholy 


264 


RHODES  AND  8CIO. 


feelings  in  the  breasts  of  tourists ; for  it  is  impossibly 
to  dismiss  from  one’s  mind  the  recollection  which  his 
torv  reveals  of  the  terrible  slaughter  its  peaceful  in- 
habitants were  subjected  to  on  that  occasion. 

It  was  to  me  a source  of  some  interest  to  know  that 
there  are  still  living  on  those  islands  those  who  re- 
member with  gratitude  the  arrival  of  the  American 
vessels,  loaded  with  provisions  for  the  suffering  poor, 
sent  as  a gratuity  to  the  nation  by  the  United  States 
Government,  during  the  struggle  of  the  Greeks  for 
liberty. 

1 recalled  to  mind,  as  I stood  amidst  the  ruin 
wrought  by  the  Moslem  hordes,  the  memory  of  a 
brave  and  valiant  Greek,  who,  it  is  said,  dwelt  for  a 
time  in  one  of  these  now  desolated  villas,  and  whose 
name  has  gone  down  to  posterity,  blazoned  in  history, 
and  embalmed  in  song.  I repeated,  with  no  little 
emotion,  the  following  lines,  written  by  one  of  our  no- 
blest bards,  Fitz-Greene  llalleck,  upon  the  death  of 
Marco  Bozzaris,  the  Greek  chieftain,  whose  home  was 
once  here : 


Bozzaris  ! with  the  storied  brave 
Greece  nurtured  in  her  glory  's  time, 

Rest  thee  I there  is  no  prouder  grave, 

Even  in  her  own  proud  dime. 

She  wore  no  funeral  weeds  for  thee, 

Nor  bade  the  dark  hearse  wave  its  plume, 
Like  torn  branch  from  death's  leader  tree, 
In  sorrow's  pomp  and  pageantry, 

The  heartless  luxury  of  the  tomb  : 

But  she  remembers  thee  as  one 
Long  loved,  and  .or  a season  gone  ; 

For  thee  her  poet’s  lyre  is  wreathed, 

Her  marble  wrought,  her  music  breathed  ; 
For  thee  she  rings  the  birthday  bells  ; 

For  thee  her  babes  lirst  lisping  tells  ; 

For  thine  her  evening  prayer  is  said  * 
At  palace  couch  and  cottage  bed  ; 

Her  soldier,  closing  with  the  foe. 

Gives  for  thy  sake  a deadlier  blow  ; 

H is  plighted  maiden,  when  she  fears 
For  him.  the  joy  of  her  young  years. 
Thinks  of  thy  fate,  and  checks  her  tears  ; 

And  site,  the  mother  of  thy  boys, 

Though  in  her  eye  and  faded  cheek 
Is  read  the  grief  she  will  not  speak, 

The  memory  of  her  buried  joys, 


RHODES  AND  SOIO. 


2G5 


And  even  she  who  gave  thee  birth- 
Will,  by  their  pilgrim-circled  hearth, 

Talk  of  thy  doom  without  a sigh  , 

For  thou  art  Freedom’s  now,  and  Fame’s  ; 

One  of  the  few,  the  immortal  names, 

That  were  not  born  to  die. 

We  were  graciously  and  hospitably  entertained  at 
one  of  the  beautiful  mansions  which  was  saved  from 
destruction  at  that  terrible  period  by  a superb  Greek 
lady,  distinguished  for  her  polished  manners  and  in- 
tellectual attainments.  I considered  her  to  be  a fair 
representative  of  the  ancient  Sciotes,  who  were  cele- 
brated for  their  great  personal  beauty  and  winning 
ways.  The  entertainment  prepared  for  us  embraced 
all  the  delicacies  the  island  afforded,  including  some 
of  its  choice  wines,  for  which  it  has  been  long  justly 
celebrated.  It  is  said  that  the  inhabitants  of  Scio 
were  the  lirst  to  cultivate  the  vine  for  the  purpose  of 
wine-making,  it  being  taught  to  them  by  Oneopan, 
the  son  of  Bacchus,  and  by  them  communicated  to 
the  rest  of  mankind. 

After  spending  the  afternoon  in  a most  agreeable 
manner,  we  took  leave  of  this  amiable  lady  and  her 
charming  family,  and  returned  to  the  port.  At  one 
of  the  best  saloons  in  the  town  we  were  served  with 
some  choice  coffee,  and  received  every  attention  from 
an  obliging  host.  Soon  afterward,  we  embarked  and 
departed  from  this  island,  once  called,  “ The  Flower 
of  the  Levant,”  and  at  another  period  entitled,  “The 
Paradise  of  the  Archipelago.” 


12 


266 


SMYRNA. 


CHAPTER  LVII. 

SMYRNA. 

Arrival  at  Smyrna— Episcopal  Church— Dancing  Dervishes— Their  Services — 

Form  of  Prayer — Shakers — Bay — Homer’s  Birth-place — Ruined  Castle- 

Mi  *ed  Races  — Greek  Costume  — Harems  — Bazaars  — Railroad — Taurus 

Mountains. 

Our  course  from  Scio  was  toward  the  ancient  city 
of  Smyrna,  which  place  we  reached  on  the  following 
morning.  It  was  on  the  Sabbath-day  we  arrived  in 
the  city,  and  we  availed  ourselves  of  the  opportunity 
presented  of  attending  divine  service  in  the  morning 
at  the  Episcopal  church.  There  was  a large  and 
attentive  congregation  present,  composed  chiefly  of 
Europeans  and  Americans.  The  sermon,  an  eloquent 
and  impressive  one,  was  pronounced  in  the  English 
language. 

In  the  afternoon,  we  attended  a meeting  of  dancing 
dervishes.  Attached  to  their  place  of  worship  is  a 
large  sitting-room,  with  cushioned  seats  around  the 
sides  of  the  apartment,  to  which  we  were  conducted 
to  await  the  opening  of  the  meeting;  and  while  there, 
we  were  served,  as  is  the  custom,  by  attendants  be- 
longing to  the  church,  with  coflee,  at  the  expense  of 
the  congregation. 

As  soon  as  the  church  was  opened,  we  were  invited 
into  it,  and  given  seats  in  the  north  gallery,  although 
the  members  of  the  church  were  not  provided  with 
such  accommodations. 

The  chief  sheik,  or  priest,  first  entered,  and  advan- 
ced to  the  alcove  at  the  east  end  of  the  church,  where 
he  remained  standing  for  a short  time  with  his  face 
toward  the  east.  He  then  dropped  upon  his  knees, 


SMYRNA. 


267 


bending  bis  body  forward  and  kissing  the  floor  seve- 
ral times  in  succession.  Immediately  after  this  the 
members  entered,  each  bearing  a richly  dressed  and 
ornamented  sheepskin  in  his  hands,  on  which  they 
knelt  in  rows  from  north  to  south  across  the  church, 
with  their  faces  toward  the  priest. 

Their  form  of  prayer  is  very  much  like  that  of  the 
Mohammedans.  The  congregation  remained  for  some 
time  in  prayer,  each  repeating  them  to  himself.  They 
then  rose  to  their  feet,  and  while  removing  their 
sheepskins,  the  sheik  and  three  of  the  officers  kneeled 
upon  the  floor,  in  the  middle  of  the  church,  two  on 
the  north  and  two  on  the  south  side,  fronting  each 
other,  with  a sufficiently  open  space  between  them  to 
allow  the  members  who  came  late  to  pass  to  the  altar, 
where  they  offered  up  their  prayers,  and  then  knelt 
to  the  sheik  in  order  to  kiss  his  hand.  If  this  privi- 
lege is  extended  to  them,  they  are  forgiven  for  arriv- 
ing late  ; but  if  not,  they  must  atone  for  their  offence 
in  another  way. 

The  congregation,  in  the  mean  time,  arranged 
themselves  near  their  priest  in  the  form  of  a half 
moon,  and  commenced  singing,  howling  occasionally, 
and  bending  their  bodies  gracefully  first  to  one  side 
and  then  to  the  other,  keeping  time  with  the  music. 
After  this,  all  the  members  joined  hands  around  four 
of  the  principal  officers  of  the  church,  the  shiek  hav- 
ing previously  resumed  his  place  at  the  altar.  They 
again  commenced  singing  and  dancing  around  the 
persons  within  the  circle,-  and  it  seemed  to  me  that 
the  longer  they  could  dance,  and  the  louder  they 
could  shout,  c‘  Ya-lia,  or  ya-allali,5’  the  greater  is  the 
merit.  The  dance  continued  on  this  occasion  until 
they  were  apparently  exhausted,  when  first  one  and 
then  another  would  leave  the  room,  and  put  on  his 
coat,  for  they  danced  in  their  shirt  sleeves,  and  finally 


268 


SMYRNA. 


the  service  was  concluded  and  the  congregation  dis- 
missed. 

This  service  resembles,  in  some  respects,  that  of  the 
Shakers  of  our  country,  with  this  difference,  how 
ever,  that  the  latter  is  attended  by  both  sexes,  who 
take  part  in  it,  while  women  are  excluded  from  join- 
ing in  the  exercises  of  the  former.  They  are,  how- 
ever, allowed  to  go  into  the  gailery,  on  the  south  side 
of  the  church,  which  is  separated  from  the  open 
building  by  a lattice-work — thus  they  are  enabled  to 
look  down  upon  the  congregation,  while  they  them- 
selves cannot  be  seen  from  below.  My  daughter  sat 
at  my  side  during  the  services,  and  was  treated  witn 
entire  respect.  Candor  compels  me  to  say  that  I saw 
nothing  in  the  deportment  of  any  of  the  members  of 
the  congregation  that  would  lead  me  to  believe  they 
were  not  wholly  sincere  in  their  worship.  The  meei- 
ing  closed  early  in  the  afternoon  ; and  on  leaving  the 
church,  which  stands  on  the  most  elevated  point  in 
the  north-eastern  part  of  the  city,  we  were  surprised 
with  the  grandeur  of  the  view  before  us.  The  exten- 
sive bay,  the  harbor  crowded  with  vessels  from  every 
part  of  the  world,  lying  at  short  distances  from  the 
wharves,  and  the  city  itself  filling  the  space  which 
sloped  gradually  between  us  and  the  water — pre- 
sented a combination  of  effects  surpassingly  beau- 
tiful. 

This  town  is  of  great  antiquity ; but  like  the  an- 
cient kingdom  of  Lydia,  of  which  it  once  formed  a 
portion,  its  early  history  is  little  better  than  a fable. 
The  whole  of  Asia  Minor  is  full  of  historical  associa- 
tions. More  than  twenty  different  dynasties  have 
succeeded  each  other,  and  after  flourishing  for  a pe- 
riod, have  disappeared,  leaving  scarcely  a trace  be- 
hind. Homer,  who  is  claimed  as  having  been  born 
here,  has  rendered,  in  his  song,  this  country,  and 
everything  relating  to  it,  forever  memorable. 


SMYRNA. 


269 


Old,  however,  as  this  cit}r  undoubtedly  is,  the  only 
ancient  work  of  art  remaining  in  it  is  the  ruiu  of  a 
castle  on  the  summit  of  an  eminence  at  the  north- 
eastern part  of  the  city.  From  this  point  a command- 
ing view  of  the  town  and  the  surrounding  country 
can  be  obtained,  which  will  well  repay  a traveller  for 
his  labor  in  visiting  it.  The  city  rises  several  hundred 
feet  above  tide  water.  The  streets,  like  those  of  ah 
oriental  towns,  are  extremely  narrow,  and  carriages 
are  seldom  seen  in  them.  Its  population  exceeds  two 
hundred  thousand,  and  is  composed  of  Turks,  Greeks, 
Jews,  Armenians,  and  a few  Europeans.  There  are 
numerous  mosques  and  churches  within  the  limits  of 
the  city,  and  one  large  and  exceedingly  beautiful 
synagogue.  This  city  has  for  centuries  been  the  most 
important  as  regards  the  trade  of  the  Levant  of  any 
of  those  in  the  east,  and  is  the  residence  of  the  con- 
suls of  all  commercial  nations.  The  trade  is  carried 
on  both  by  vessels  and  caravans  from  Asia  Minor, 
Syria,  and  Bagdad.  The  town  has  the  reputation  of 
being  exceedingly  healthy  ; yet  it  has  been  repeat- 
edly ravaged  by  plagues,  and  also  several  times  de- 
stroyed by  earthquakes.  Its  exports  are  cotton,  fruits, 
opium,  rhubarb,  drugs,  oil,  madder,  Turkey  carpets, 
wool,  wax,  etc. 

Smyrna  is  not  inappropriately  termed  the  Paris  of 
the  Levant.  There  is  much  refinement  in  its  society, 
and  the  women  are  beautiful.  The  Greek  costume  is 
graceful,  and  gives  to  the  ladies  an  air  of  elegance. 
They  are  usually  to  be  seen  in  the  morning,  seated  on 
the  piazzas  at  the  rear  of  their  dwellings,  with  the 
street  doors  open,  and  surrounded  by  a prolusion  ot 
flowers,  the  cultivation  of  which  gives  them  pleasura- 
ble employment.  They  seem  to  be  quite  as  willing 
to  be  gazed  on,  as  they  apparently  are  to  see  all  that 
is  passing  in  the  streets  of  this  gay  metropolis.  The 
Turkish  ladies  have  no  privileges  of  this  nature  accotv 


270 


SMYRNA. 


ded  to  them.  They  are  confined  to  their  harems,  and 
if  thgy  look  out  at  all  upon  the  moving  throng  which 
fills  the  streets  below  them,  they  can  only  do  so 
through  grated  windows. 

The  bazaars  attract  all  classes  of  citizens  and  stran- 
gers at  certain  hours  of  the  day ; and  the  casinos  or 
club-houses  are  also  pleasant  places  for  travellers  to 
visit. 

I received  an  invitation  while  in  Smyrna  to  make 
an  excursion  into  the  interior,  by  the  railroad  now 
constructing  at  this  place.  This  road  will,  no  doubt, 
before  many  years  elapse,  be  completed  to  the 
Euphrates,  if,  indeed,  it  be  not  extended  still  farther. 
It  is  now  in  running  order  for  a distance  of  sixty 
miles.  Mr.  Thomas  Burt,  the  engineer  of  our  vessel, 
had  also  been  invited  ; but  we,  unfortunately,  did  not 
reach  the  station  in  time,  the  cars  having  left  only  a 
few  moments  before  we  arrived.  This  was  much  to 
my  regret,  for  1 had  a great  desire  to  travel  over  a 
portion  of  the  interior  of  this  interesting  country,  and 
the  cars  would  have  taken  us  to  within  a few  miles 
of  the  ancient  city  of  Sardis.  This  railroad  is  con- 
structed under  the  direction  of  English  engineers  and 
Irish  laborers.  It  will,  I doubt  not,  add  much  to  the 
business  of  the  old  city  when  completed. 

The  Taurus  mountains,  which  begin  at  Lydia,  run 
the  whole  length  of  Asia,  and  assume  different  names 
among  the  different  nations  through  whose  country 
they  pass..  This  range  of  mountains  cuts  off  all  com- 
munication from  the  interior  with  the  sea,  except  by 
difficult  and  dangerous  passes,  so  that  the  greater 
part  of  the  produce  of  this  rich  and  fertile  country 
must  either  find  its  way  to  this  port  by  the  Black 
Sea,  or  by  caravans.  The  moment  this  road  is  opened 
its  entire  distance,  a new  impulse  will  be  given  to  the 
industry  of  the  country. 


FROM  SMYRNA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


271 


CHAPTER  LYIII. 

FROM  SMYRNA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 

Departure  from  Smyrna — Mitylene — Choice  'Wines — Sappho— The  Lesbians— 
Trojan  Coast— Mt.  Ida — Old  Troy— Agamemnon— Grecian  Fleet— Tomb 
of  Achilles — Dardanelles — Xerxes — Leander  and  Byron — Arrival  at  Con 
stantinople— Hotel  D’Angleterre. 

The  captain,  having  taken  in  his  freight,  summon- 
ed his  passengers  on  board,  and  we  were  soon  under 
way,  sailing  down  this  charming  bay,  which  is  fully 
sixty  miles  in  length.  I remained  on  deck  until  we 
had  passed  the  headland  of  Fokai,  and  turned  our 
course  toward  the  island  of  Mitylene,  one  of  the  gems 
of  these  western  waters.  As  a place  of  learning,  this 
island  once  rivalled  Athens  and  Rhodes.  We  reach- 
ed it  early  in  the  afternoon,  and  on  arriving  in  the 
city,  I was  honored  with  an  invitation  to  spend  the 
evening  at  the  Russian  Consul’s.  His  elegant  man- 
sion is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  promontory  near 
the  fortress,  which  fronts  the  great  bay  of  Adramyt- 
tium.  There  are  several  picturesque  and  beautiful 
villages  hanging  upon  the  declivities  of  the  mountains 
south  of  the  city,  adding  greatly  to  the  pleasing  fea- 
tures of  the  landscape.  After  partaking  of  some  of 
the  choicest  wines  of  the  island,  which  the  citizens 
claim  to  be  far  superior  to  that  of  any  produced  in 
other  countries,  we  walked  through  both  towns,  com- 
mencing with  the  Grecian  city  which  lies  by  the  sea- 
shore, on  the  north  of  the  promontory,  and  then 
through  the  Turkish  town,  which  is  situated  on  the 
south  side  by  the  port.  We  visited  the  bazaars,  and, 
indeed,  every  locality  of  interest  in  both  cit  es,  and 
were  much  pleased  with  the  display  of  rich  goods 


272 


FROM  SMYRNA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


which  the  merchants  took  pleasure  in  exhibiting 
to  ns. 

This  celebrated  island  has  given  birth  to  many 
illustrious  persons,  among  whom  are  included  Arion 
and  Alcaeus,  lyric  poets,  Lysander,  and  Sappho,  the 
mother  of  the  Grecian  lyre.  The  poems  of  the  latter 
are  characterized  by  great  delicacy  of  sentiment  and 
poetical  inspiration,  and  embrace  some  of  the  finest 
specimens  of  ancient  sonnets  which  have  descended 
to  us.  The  following  verses  are  in  the  best  vein  of 
Sappho’s  muse : 


Blest  as  the  immortal  gods  is  he, 

The  youth  that  fondly  sits  by  thee, 

And  hears  and  sees  thee  all  the  while 
Softly  speak  and  sweetly  smile. 

’Twas  this  deprived  my  soul  of  rest 
And  raised  such  tumult  in  my  breast ; 

For  while  I gazed,  in  transport  tost. 

My  breath  was  gone,  my  voice  was  lost. 

My  bosom  glowed  ; the  subtle  flame 
Ran  quick  through  all  my  vital  frame  ; 

O'er  my  dim  eyes  a darkness  hung, 

My  ears  with  hollow  murmuring  rung. 

In  dewy  damps  my  limbs  were  chilled  ; 

My  blood  with  gentle  horrors  thrilled  ; 

My  feeble  pulse  forgot  to  play — 

I fainted,  sunk,  and  died  away. 

All  of  the  productions  of  these  writers  have  heen 
lost  to  the  world  except  a few  examples  of  Sappho’s 
lyre.  The  Lesbians  were  particularly  celebrated 
among  the  ancients  for  their  skill  in  music.  The 
mount  from  which  Sappho,  when  slighted  by  her 
countrymen,  cast  l^rseif  into  the  sea,  was  pointed 
out  to  us,  while  sailing  along  the  coast.  Homer 
speaks  of  this  island  under  the  name  of  Lesbos,  and 
as  being  well  inhabited  in  his  day. 

We  resumed  our  voyage  early  in  the  evening, 
bound  for  the  Trojan  coast,  which  we  reached  at  nine 
the  next  morning.  The  captain  ran  his  vessel  as  near 


FROM  SMYRNA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


273 


to  the  shore  as  was  safe  for  him  to  do,  and  sailed  be- 
tween it  and  the  island  of  Tenedos.  He  very  kindly 
placed  the  chart  of  the  coast  before  me,  and  imparted 
to  me  all  the  information  he  possessed  in  relation  to 
that  classic  region.  There  stood,  not  nine  miles  distant, 
Mount  Ida,  in  bold  relief  before  us,  and  at  its  base 
old  Troy  once  reclined.  In  examining  the  coast,  as 
we  sailed  along,  for  a beach  upon  which  the  Greek 
navy  may  have  been  drawn,  I could  discover  nothing 
but  high  banks,  which  also  formed  the  characteristic 
of  the  shores  for  some  distance  beyond  Tenedos.  Our 
attention  was  attracted  first  to  the  main  land,  and  its 
extensive  plains,  then  to  Tenedos,  which  once  asserted 
the  claim  to  the  honor  of  having  given  birth  to  Aga- 
memnon. There  is  nothing  to  be  seen  upon  this  isl- 
and but  a poor  wretched  town  of  five  thousand  inhab- 
itants. The  country  presented  a barren  appearance, 
and  there  was  not  a single  tree  or  shrub  to  be  seen 
upon  it.  But  its  present  condition  is  a matter  of  little 
consequence,  for  it  will  ever  be  distinguished  as  the 
island  b.ehind  which  the  Greeks  concealed  their  forces 
at  the  time  of  the  Trojan  war,  until  the  wooden  horse 
had  obtained  entrance  into  the  city,  as  we  learn  in  the 
Odyssey,  and  from  Yirgil.  It  was  no  great  distance 
from  this  island,  as  we  advanced  along  our  journey, 
that  I observed  a beach  sufficiently  capacious  to  have 
accommodated  the  Grecian  fleet,  and  it  may  have  been 
here  that  the  boats  were  drawn  up.  The  country  be- 
tween the  sea-shore  and  Mount  Ida,  and  between  it 
and  the  Dardanelles,  is  an  extensive  plain.  It  was 
here  that  the  Greek  and  Trojan  armies  marched  and 
countermarched,  and  here,  and  under  the  Avails  of 
Troy,  and  on  the  sea-coast,  they  engaged  in  their  san- 
guinary conflict,  so  eloquently  described  by  the  great 
lyric  poet  of  ancient  times. 

As  we  continued  on  our  course  along  this  ever  me- 
morable coast,-  we  came  in  sight  of  the  tumuli,  said 

12* 


274  FKOM  SMYRNA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE. 


to  be  tomb  of  Achilles.  It  required  no  one  to  point 
it  out  to  me,  for  it  stood  in  full  view  from  our  vessel, 
and,  after  examining  it,  no  one  can  doubt  its  great 
antiquity. 

My  undivided  attention  was  given  to  examining 
every  point  of  interest  on  the  coast  of  Troy  and  the 
surrounding  country,  until  we  arrived  at  the -mouth 
of  the  Dardanelles,  where  we  were  obliged  to  wait 
until  a permit  was  obtained,  allowing  us  to  proceed 
on  our  voyage  up  this  ancient  river. 

The  British  Consul  of  Gallipoli  came  on  board  at 
this  point,  and,  being  familiar  with  every  locality  on 
the  main,  lie  kindly  pointed  out  to  me  the  very  spot 
where  Xerxes  constructed  the  bridge  of  boats,  and 
the  point  from  whence  Leander  and  Byron  swam 
across  the  river  from  Abydos  to  Sestos.  The  place 
where  it  is  said  the  bridge  was  built  is  admirably  cal- 
culated for  the  passage  of  a large  army  into  Europe. 
There  is  an  extensive  opening,  or  plain,  at  this  point, 
on  the  European  side,  through  which  troops  could 
march  into  the  country,  or  enable  them  to  encamp  on 
the  banks  of  the  river  ; while  just  above  it,  the  shores 
are  high,  presenting  serious  difficulties  in  the  way  of 
moving  an  army.  I remained  on  deck  during  the 
whole  day,  while  we  sailed  up  this  renowned  river, 
and  did  not  go  below  until  it  was  so  dark  that  I could 
no  longer  see  the  shores. 

Our  vessel  stopped  some  time  at  Gallipoli,  on  our 
voyage  up.  This  line  town  is  interesting  to  all  trav- 
ellers as  having  been  the  first  place  in  Europe  where 
the  Turks  acquired  that  dominion  which  they  so  rap- 
idly extended,  and  which  became  so  disastrous  in  its 
consequences. 

We  arrived  at  Constantinople  the  following  morn- 
ing ; and  some  time  before  we  reached  this  great  city, 
some  one  on  board,  who  evidently  was  under  great 
excitement,  cried  aloud,  u Constantinople  ! behold 


FROM  SMYRNA  TO  CONSTANTINOPLE.  275 

Constantinople !”  much  to  the  amusement  of  the 
more  self-possessed  passengers. 

When  I hastened  on  deck,  Stamboul  and  Pera,  in 
Europe,  and  Scutari,  in  Asia,  were  in  full  view.  The 
former  and  latter  are  the  residences  of  the  natives — 
Pera  being  appointed  for  the  occupancy  of  strangers, 
or  Franks,  as  all  foreigners  are  indiscriminately 
termed.  The  city,  as  viewed  from  the  deck  of  our 
vessel,  seemed  to  me  to  have  been  appropriately 
styled  by  the  poet,  “ Queen  of  the  Morn  —Sultana  of 
the  East !”  W e sailed  near  to  its  walls,  along  the 
coast  of  the  Marmora,  and  cast  anchor  in  the  far- 
famed  Golden  Horn.  After  taking  leave  of  our  num- 
erous friends  on  board,  some  of  whom  were  bound  to 
Odessa  in  Russia,  we  landed  within  the  enclosure  of 
the  custom-house,  where,  to  our  surprise,  we  were  not 
detained  by  the  officials  searching  our  baggage,  but  al- 
lowed to  proceed  up  a narrow  paved  street  to  the 
summit  of  the  Pera  mount,  which  is  at.  least  four 
hundred  feet  high,  and  thence  to  the  Hotel  d’ Angle- 
terre,  one  of  the  best  public  houses  in  the  place.  We 
were  given  a fine  suite  of  apartments,  where  I intend- 
ed to  remain  quiet  for  a few  days,  until  I had  recov- 
ered from  the  fatigue,  of  my  long  voyage.  But  His 
Excellency,  James  Williams,  resident  minister  from 
the  United  States,  who  is  accredited  here,  honored  us 
with  a call  in  the  afternoon,  and  requested  ris-to  make 
him  a visit  at  his  summer  house.  We  left  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning  in  a steamer  for  his  hospitable  man- 
sion, where  we  were  most  cordially  welcomed  by  Mr. 
and  Mrs,  Williams.  The  village  of  Buyukdereis  the 
summer  residence  of  the  diplomatic  corps  accredited 
at  the  Court,  which  circumstance  renders  the  place 
one  of  the  most  fashionable  in  the  vicinity  of  Con- 
stantinople. It  is  situated  about  two  miles  from  the 
Black  Sea,  which  is  in  full  view.  The  shore  of  the 


276 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


Bosphorus,  on  the  European  side,  is  lined  with  a suc- 
cession of  handsome  villages  extending  from  Con- 
stantinople. 


CHAPTER  LIX. 

CONSTANTINOPLE. 

First  View  of  Constantinople — Deceptive  in  its  Character — Mosques — Grand 
Seraglio — Royal  Mint — Remains  of  Antiquity — Spiral  Column  of  Brass— 
Constantine's  Palace — Marcian  Column— Founding  of  the  City— Popula- 
tion- Fountains— Dams— Croton  vs.  Belgrade— Ancient  Cisterns— Bazaars 
-Police  Regulations  -Healthfulness  of  the  ity — Baths — The  Sultan — His 
Dominions— European  Ministers— Native  Newspapers  — Suburbs — Sweet 
Waters — Mr.  Williams — O^-Carts— Four-in-hands— On  Cushions -Sultanas 
—Amusements— Military  Honors— Fourth  of  July— Patriotism— Speeches 
— Prophetic  Words. 

The  first  view  of  Constantinople,  which  I obtained 
from  the  deck  of  the  vessel  as  we  approached  the  city 
standing  in  bold  relief  on  its  several  hills,  in  the  form 
of  an  amphitheatre,  gave  me  high  expectations  of  its 
grandeur.  Its  picturesque  beauty  and  oriental  adorn- 
ments, with  its  gorgeous  palaces,  and  the  graceful 
minarets  of  its  mosques,  attract  the  notice  of  all  trav- 
ellers they  come  near  it  from  a distance,  and  natu- 
rally impress  them  with  the  idea  that  in  its  beauty  it 
stands  unrivalled  among  the  cities  of  the  world.  On 
entering  its  precincts,  however,  although  one  is  grat- 
ified with  every  thing  that  meets  his  eye,  neverthe- 
less, his  high  expectations  of  its  grandeur  will,  in 
some  respects,  be  disappointed.  The  streets  are  nar- 
row, and  those  running  up  the  hills  from  the  seashore 
or  river,  are  steep,  ill  paved  and  difficult  of  ascent. 
The  dwellings  are  chiefly  of  wood,  painted  red,  and 
are  low,  unsightly  structures.  The  mosques,  of  which 
there  are  several  hundreds,  (with  the  exception  of 
Achmet,  Sultan  Mehemet,  and  St.  Sophia,)  will  not 
excite  notice.  It  is,  however,  due  to  candor  to  state 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


277 


that  the  glowing  descriptions  given  by  travellers  of 
the  architectural  beauty  of  the  two  former  mosques, 
and  the  historical  associations  connected  with  the 
last,  are  by  no  means  exaggerated  or  undeserved. 
They  are  rich  and  beautiful  edifices,  and  cannot  fail 
to  attract  the  attention  and  admiration  of  all  tourists. 

The  grand  seraglio  is  surrounded  by  a wall,  sur- 
mounted by  square  towers  toward  the  sea,  and  is  three 
miles  in  circumference.  It  occupies  the  entire  site 
of  the  ancient  city  of  Byzantium.  This  palace  now 
affords  a place  of  dignified  retirement  for  the  Suita- 
nee’s  of  deceased  monarchs,  and  of  seclusion  for  the 
male  members  of  the  royal  family.  The  Royal  Mint 
stands  within  this  enclosure.  From  its  lower  garden 
there  is  a view  of  the  most  charming  description  over- 
looking Princess  Island,  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  ancTan 
extensive  region  of  Asia.  The  horizon  being  bound- 
ed by  the  Giant  Mountain  on  the  one  side  and  the 
snowy  summit  of  Olympus  on  the  other. 

The  Grand  Mosque  of  Achmet  stands  on  one  side 
of  the  great  oblong  square,  called  the  Hippodrome, 
formerly  the  course  for  chariot  races,  as  its  name  im- 
ports, located  on  the  summit  of  Stainboul. 

The  few  remains  of  antiquity  within  the  limits  of 
the  city,  are  chiefly  found  in  this  square.  In  its  cen- 
tre rises  an  obelisk  of  granite,  sixty-five  feet  high, 
which  came  originally  from  Thebes.'*  At  no  great  dis- 
tance from  it  is  a pyramidical  column  one  hundred 
feet  in  height,  formerly  covered  with  brass,  which  was 
brought  from  Rhodes.  A spiral  column  of  brass, 
called  the  serpentine,  eleven  feet  high,  covered  with 
entwining  bronze  serpents,  whose  heads  formerly  sup- 
ported the  golden  tripod,  consecrated  to  Apollo,  af- 
ter the  defeat  of  Xerxes,  occupies  a conspicuous  place 
in  the  square,  and  is  especially  deserving  of  notice  for 
the  reason  that  it  once  stood  in  the  celebrated  Temple 
of  Delphi. 


278 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


On  the  south  side  of  the  square  stands  all  that  re- 
mains of  Constantine’s  palace  ; and  at  a short  distance 
from  his  forum  is  a porphyry  column  of  the  Doric  or- 
der, brought  from  Rome  by  Constantine  himself. 
Besides  these  relics  of  ancient  grandeur,  there  stands, 
on  one  of  the  hills,  the  Marcian  column,  fifty- two  feet 
high,  in  an  excellent  state  of  preservation.  Fine  en- 
gravings have,  however,  been  executed  of  these  relics, 
and  may  be  obtained  of  any  of  the  print  sellers  in  the 
country.  They  give  a correct  idea  of  those  remarka- 
ble curiosities. 

The  Turks  destroyed  all  the  ancient  buildings  of 
the  Greeks  and  Romans,  and  availed  themselves  of 
their  materials  for  the  construction  of  their  own  pub- 
lic edifices — consequently  all  that  remains  of  the  an- 
tiquities of  the  city  itself  are  presented  to  the  eye 
under  entirely  different  forms  and  constructions,  in 
their  mosques  and  other  buildings.  Some  of  the  im- 
perial mosques  have  no  less  than  six  minarets,  form- 
ing a striking  and  pleasing  feature  in  their  architect- 
ural arrangement. 

The  superb  works  of  art  I have  enumerated  are  of 
great  antiquity,  and  lend,  by  their  presence,  a lustre 
and  renown  to  this  vast  commercial  emporium.  This 
city  was  founded  within  a century  after  the  building 
of  Rome,  and  was  captured  by  that  nation  as  early  as 
ld3  b.  c.  It  now  forms,  in  my  opinion,  the  richest, 
and  by  far  the  most  important  part  of  the  Ottoman 
Kmpire.  It  contains,  including  its  suburbs  — the 
neighboring  towns  lying  on  the  Bosphorus — a popu- 
lation of  upwards  of  one  million  of  people.  Its  natu- 
ral advantages,  and  its  situation  as  a commercial  town, 
surpass,  beyond  all  question,  that  of  any  other  city 
in  the  Old  World. 

The  architectural  proportions  of  the  Turkish  fount- 
ains, which  are,  comparatively  speaking,  modern 
structures,  are  exceedingly  chaste  and  beautiful, 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


279 


These  are  scattered  over  the  city  in  every  direction, 
so  that  yon  meet  them  in  whatever  course  your  steps 
may  take  you.  They  are  an  indispensable  requisite 
to  every  mosque,  as  before  the  Turk  prostrates  him- 
self in  prayers,  he  must  perform  his  ablutions.  There 
are  about  the  fountains  drinking  vessels  of  copper, 
filled  with  cool  water  for  the  thirsty  passengers  ; these 
are  kept  clean  by  men  appointed  for  that  purpose. 
Most  of  the  fountains  are  built  of  marble,  with  elab- 
orate arabesque  ornaments,  and  Chinese-like  roofs, 
rendering  them  very  beautiful  objects.  The  wTater 
which  supplies  them  and  the  city  at  large,  is  brought 
from  five  artificial  lakes,  formed  by  stone  dams,  laid 
in  water  cement  in  the  most,  substantial  manner,  across 
the  mountain  streams  in  and  about  the  forest  of  Bel- 
grade, at  a distance  of  from  twelve  to  fifteen  miles. 
These  dams  are  noble  structures,  and  though  they 
have  been  standing  for  centuries,  look  as  fresh  and 
firm  as  the  day  they  were  finished.  The  water  is 
conveyed  from  these  lakes  to  the  city  by  subterra- 
nean aqueducts,  built  by  the  Emperor  Valeus.  There 
are  several  tastefully  arched  bridges  on  its  route, 
which  convey  the  water  across  ravines ; and,  also, 
several  suterage,  or  hydraulic  pyramids,  placed  at 
regular  intervals,  and  ingeniously  constructed  to  over- 
come the  inequalities  of  the  surface  of  the  country 
between  the  lakes  and  the  city.  I visited  some  of 
these  lakes,  which  reminded  me  of  the  artificial  Cro- 
ton lake  in  Westchester  county,  State  of  New  York, 
that  supplies  the  great  metropolis  of  the  New  World 
with  pure  and  wholesome  water.  The  Croton  dam 
is,  in  my  opinion,  a much  more  scientific  work,  in 
every  respect,  than  are  either  of  the  dams  in  the  Bel- 
grade forest.  Besides  the  water  is  carried  from  the 
Croton  lake  to~New  York  city,  a distance  of  forty 
miles  on  an  inclined  plane,  requiring  no  hydraulic 
machinery  to  overcome  the  natural  inequalities  of 


280 


CONST  ANTINOI  LE. 


the  land.  I have  examined  carefully  all  the  works 
of  this  character  on  my  journey  through  Europe  and 
Asia,  and  I think  that  New  York  can  boast  of  its 
aqueduct  as  being  superior  to  any  work  of  the  same 
kind  either  of  ancient  or  modern  times. 

There  are  several  .ancient  cisterns  or  reservoirs 
within  the  walls  of  the  city,  which  were  always  kept 
full  of  water,  in  order  to  supply  the  capital  in  case  of 
a siege;  but  these  the  Turks  now  seem  to  neglect,  for 
they  are  no  longer  employed  for  the  purpose  for 
which  they  were  designed.  One  of  them,  however, 
is  still  an  object  of  much  attraction,  to  which  all  trav- 
ellers are  conducted.  It  is  a vast  subterranean  edi- 
fice, formed  by  excavation.  Its  arched  roof  is  said  to 
be  supported  by  one  thousand  and  one  columns.  It 
is  of  great  depth,  and  access  is  gained  by  a long  flight 
of  steps  under  the  city  itself.  The  reservoir  is  capa- 
ble of  containing  fourteen  millions  six  hundred  thou- 
sand gallons.  There  is  another  cistern,  extending 
under  several  streets,  the  roof  of  which  is  sustained 
by  three  hundred  and  thirty-six  columns.  The  one 
built  by  Constantine  is  of  a later  period  of  construc- 
tion, and  is  by  no  means  as  extensive  as  the  last 
named. 

The  bazaars  of  the  city  far  exceed  in  splendor  those 
of  any  other  eastern  city  that  came  under  my  obser- 
vation. Tha  narrow  streets,  in  which  the  bazaars  are 
situated,  are  covered,  apparently  under  one  roof,  with 
numerous  domes,  which  afford  them  sufticient  light  in 
a fair  day.  The  shops  or  divisions  are  very  small ; 
each  vends  one  kind  of  merchandize  only,  that  is  to 
say,  at  one,  cotton  goods  ; at  another  linen  ; at  anoth- 
er carpeting  ; at  another  cashmere  shawls,  and  so  on, 
almost  ad  infinitum.  There  is  only  one  salesman 
employed  at  each  of  the  shops.  These  bazaars  are  a 
fashionable  lounge,  from  the  opening  of  the  gates  in 
the  morning  until  they  are  closed  in  the  evening. 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


281 


The  police  regulations  for  the  city  are  of  the  most 
stringent  ch#acter.  No  person  is  permitted  to  travel 
through  the  streets  after  dark,  without  a pass,  and 
then  he  must  carry  a lighted  lantern.  If  he  be  found 
without  one  he  is  committed  to  prison.  The  streets, 
consequently,  at  an  early  hour  of  the  night,  are  hushed 
and  solitary  ; and  for  want  of  lamps  are  in  total  dark- 
ness. The  police  regulations  throughout  the  city, 
particularly  in  Stamboul,  the  Turkish  quarter  of  the 
town,  are  vigorously  enforced. 

The  situation  of  the  city  being,  upon  hills,  not  only 
adds  to  the  beauty  of  its  appearance,  but  gives  salu- 
brity to  its  climate,  which  is  pure,  temperate  and  de- 
lightful. The  city  requires  no  extravagant  expendi- 
ture to  keep  its  streets  clean,  as  is  the  case  with  most 
other  cities,  for  every  Tain  sweeps  off  all  the  accumu- 
lated dirt  into  the  river  or  sea.  Its  citizens  maintain 
that  it  is  one  of  the  healthiest  cities  in  the  East,  and 
physicians  declare  that  its  inhabitants  are  never 
known  to  be  afflicted  with  rheumatism.  This  they 
attribute  in  part  to  their  constant  use  of  bathing  es- 
tablishments. The  process  of  bathing  is  as  follows : 
Having  undressed  in  an  ante-room,  a cloth  is  bound 
around  the  loins,  and  woollen  slippers  placed  on  the 
feet;  the  bather  is  then  conducted,  first,  into  a mod- 
erately warm  apartment,  and,  after  remaining  there  a 
short  time,  he  proceeds  to  an  adjoining  chamber, 
heated  to  a high  degree.  Here  he  is  required  to  lay 
down  on  raised  planks  placed  on  the  floor,  where  he 
remains  until  he  falls  into  a most  profuse  perspiration, 
when  the  attendant  commences  the  operation  of  sham- 
pooing, by  rubbing  the  body  and  limbs  thoroughly. 
This  done  the  bather  is  placed  by  the  side  of  a font, 
and  the  water  thrown  over  him,  when  he  is  at  the 
same  time  rubbed  with  a coarse  towel.  During  this 
process  scented  soap  is  profusely  used.  The  body  is 
then  carefully  enveloped  in  warm  linen,  with  a tur 


2S2 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


ban  for  the  head,  formed  of  a towel.  In  this  condi- 
tion he  is  reconducted  into  the  room  fir«t  mentioned, 
and  seated  in  a reclining  ottoman.  Here  he  is  fiir- 
nislied  with  a further  supply  of  warm  linen,  and  in- 
dulges in  lemonade,  coffee,  etc.  When  he  has  recov- 
ered from  the  effects  of  the  vapor  bath  he  resumes  his 
own  garments  again.  Twenty-five  cents  is  all  that  is 
charged  for  the  bath  and  the  services  of  the  attend- 
ants. 

As  social  society  is  altogether  unknown  in  the  city, 
excepting  in  the  foreign  diplomatic  circles,  and  as 
there  is  no  theatre  or  public  place  of  resort  within  the 
city,  most  travellers  visit  these  luxurious  baths  as  they 
do  the  club-houses  of  other  cities,  in  order  to  enjoy 
the  bath  and  spend  a few  hours  in  these  elegant 
apartments,  and  also  to  partake  of  such  refreshments 
as  their  taste  or  inclination  may  dictate. 

Formerly  the  Sultan  gave  no  public  audience  or 
entertainment  to  the  diplomatic  corps,  and  at  that 
day  it  was  with  much  difficulty  that  the  ambassadors 
•could  obtain  an  interview  even  on  public  business ; 
but  they  are  now  frequently  invited  to  dinners  at  the 
palace.  Besides,  he  has  of  late  conferred  on  them 
and  the  consulate  corps  judicial  powers  throughout 
his  dominion  for  the  trial  of  their  own  countrymen  ; 
consequently  when  a foreigner  is  charged  with  having 
committed  any  offense  against  the  laws  in  the  grand 
Sultan’s  dominions,  instead  of  subjecting  him  to  a 
trial  for  the  offence,  he  is  handed  over  to  the  minister 
or  consul  of  his  own  land  for  trial.  The  diplomatic 
corps, ‘however,  are  still  deprived  of  all  social  enjoy- 
ments, excepting  among  themselves  and  their  own 
countrymen  who  may  visit  the  capital  of  Turkey. 

I understand  that  most  of  the  European  ministers 
at  Constantinople  are  also  accredited  as  ministers  at 
the  Court  of  Athens,  in  Greece,  where  they  are  fa- 
vored with  a refined  and  charming  society,  which  they 


CONS'!  A.NTINOPLE. 


283 


enjoy  in  a high  degree  ; perhaps  the  circumstance  that 
they  are  deprived  of  such  pleasures  in  Constantino- 
ple, gives  an  additional  zest  to  their  enjoyment.  Con- 
sequently their  lime  is  divided  between  the  two 
courts,  I am  at  a loss  to  see  why  this  privilege  is 
not  accorded  to  the  ministers  of  the  United  States, 
more  especially  since  it  would  not  materially  add  to 
the  expenses  of  the  mission.  I find  that  the  Sultan 
has  recently  yielded  his  consent  to  the  publication  of 
one  or  more  newspapers  in  this  city.  They  are 
usually  printed  in  four  distinct  languages,  and  are  to 
be  met  with  in  all  the  public  houses. 

The  suburbs  of  the  city  extend  along  the  shores  of 
the  Bosphorus  to  within  two  miles  of  the  Black  Sea. 
Several  gorgeous  palaces  are  to  be  seen  on  each  bank 
of  the  river,  as  you  sail  from  the  Sea  of  Marmora. 
There  are  a number  of  fine  steamers  constantly  ply- 
ing between  the  city  and  Buyukdere,  which  stop  on 
their  way  at  various  intermediate  places.  The  river 
is  often  thronged,  especially  on  festive  occasions,  with 
caiques  or  small  boats,  that,  for  neatness  and  elegance, 
are  excelled  only  by  the  matchless  gondolas  of  Ve- 
nice. Some  of  the  boats  represent  sea-horses,  dol- 
phins, carriages,  and  a variety  of  fanciful  forms.  The 
Pasha’s  and  ambassadors  are  rowed  by  ten  pair  of 
oars,  and  their  caiques  cut  through  the  water  at  an 
almost  incredible  speed.  The  boats  of  the  ministers 
are  kept  at  the  expense  of  their  respective  govern- 
ments. I had  the  pleasure  of  sailing  in  one  of  them 
with  our  distinguished  minister,  Mr.  Williams,  and 
his  family,  on  several  occasions.  We  attended  during 
a festal  day  a gathering  at  the  Sweet  Waters  on  the 
Asiatic  shore,  near  one  of  the  Sultan’s  superb  palaces. 
The  fountain,  from  whence  flows  these  sweet  waters, 
stands  near  the  Bosphorus,  and  is  the  richest  in  orn- 
ament and  the  most  substantial  in  structure  of  any  I 
found  either  in  the  city  or  its  vicinity.  The  valley  is 


284 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


admirably  calculated  for  an  occasion  of  this  charac- 
ter. It  is  quite  extensive,  and,  like  the  parks  of  Eng- 
land and  France,  has  drives  and  walks  of  several 
miles  in  extent.  Here  we  saw  sundry  expensively 
gilded  carriages,  each  drawn  by  a pair  of  oxen,  gau- 
dily caparisoned  and  wearing  small  looking-glasses  on 
their  foreheads.  Four  sultanas  were  seated  in  each 
carriage,  guarded  by  as  many  eunuchs. 

Carriages  were  never  patronized  by  the  successors 
of  the  Prophet  until  the  present  representative  as- 
cended the  throne.  The  Sultan  is  now  occasionally 
seen  riding  in  an  English  phaeton,  and  driving  four- 
in-hand  extremely  well. 

There  were  assembled  in  the  valley  many  Mahom- 
edan  ladies,  who  were  seated  on  cushions,  ranged  in 
rows,  spread  under  the  shade  of  fine  old  sycamores, 
that  grew  in  front  of  the  fountains.  Sufficient  space 
was,  however,  left  between  the  rows  and  the  fountain 
to  permit  the  free  passage  of  the  eunuchs,  who  sup- 
plied their  ladies  with  water  and  a variety  of  refresh- 
ments, which  are  always  offered  to  them  on  festal 
occasions.  The  faces  of  the  ladies  were  covered  with 
thin  gauze  ; but  through  this  material  their  features 
were  easily  discernable.  Their  complexion  wore  a 
sickly,  pallid  hue,  produced  in  a great  measure  by 
their  manner  of  life.  They  were  attired  in  superb 
dresses  of  gaudy  colors,  but  well  disposed  and  partic- 
ularly becoming.  Their  hair  was  decked  with  dia- 
monds, and  curiously  plaited  into  an  embroidered 
piece  of  gauze  around  the  head.  The  pure,  or  sweet 
water,  as  they  call  it,  which  flowed  from  this  sparkling 
fountain,  rendered  the  spot  selected  for  their  repose 
refreshingly  cool  and  inviting.  The  goblets,  orna- 
mented with  has -relievos  of  flowers,  which  were  passed 
around  to  them  filled  with  water,  brought  to  my  re- 
ccllection  the  inimitable  ode  of  Horace,  addressed  to 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


285 


the  Fountain  of  Baudusia.  I give  an  extract  from  it, 
as  translated  by  rare  Ben  Johnson : 


“ Fountain,  whose  waters  far  surpass 
The  shining  face  of  polished  glass, 

To  thee,  the  goblet,  crowned  with  llowers, 

Grateful,  the  rich  libation  pours: 

When  the  fierce  dogstar's  fervid  ray 
Flames  forth,  and  sets  on  fire  the  day, 

To  vagrant  flocks  that  range  the  field, 

You  a refreshing  coolness  yield; 

Or,  to  the  labor- wearied  team, 

Pour  forth  the  freshness  of  thy  stream. 

Soon  shalt  thou  flow,  a noble  spring, 

While  in  immortal  verse  I sing 

The  oak,  that  spreads  thy  rocks  around, 

From  whence  thy  babbling  waters  bound.” 

Our  party  walked  in  front  of  the  ladies  thus  seat- 
ed. Two  of  Mr.  Williams’s  daugl iters  preceded  us  a 
few  steps,  one  of  whom  is  perfectly  beautiful,  and  yet 
so  modest  and  retiring  in  her  deportment,  that  she 
seemed  unconscious  of  her  captivating  charms,  which 
were  so  great  as  to  attract  the  attention  even  of  the 
Mahommedan  ladies,  one  of  whom  beckoned  to  her, 
as  she  was  parsing,  to  approach.  Miss  Williams,  in 
compliance,  knelt  by  the  side  of  the  beautiful  Sulta- 
na, who  immediately  embraced  her  in  the  most  affec- 
tionate manner.  It  was  a beautiful  sight  to  behold, 
and  attracted  the  attention  of  thousands  of  spectators, 
who  all  seemed  delighted  with  this  pleasing  incident. 
Miss  Williams,  on  taking  her  leave  of  the  Sultana, 
bowed  most  graciously,  and  she  in  turn  waved  her 
hand  with  much  dignity  and  grace. 

We  remained  for  some  time  at  the  side  of  the  road 
to  look  at  the  ladies  in  the  carriages  as  they  passed, 
and  then- turned  off  to  enjoy  the  various  amusements 
which  were  enacted  on  every  side  of  us,  and  in  front 
of  the  ladies  before  the  fountain.  The  peculiar  char- 
acter of  the  amusements,  the  singular  appearance  of 
the  booths,  the  vast  crowd  with  their  outre  costumes, 
and  the  confused  mingling  of  strange  tongues  which 
rose  above  all  other  sounds,  gave  one  an  impression 


286 


CONSTAVTTNOPLE. 


of  being  in  the  midst  of  a grand  masquerade.  Some 
were  performing  remarkable  feats  on  the  tight  rope  ; 
others  were  engaged  in  still  vaulting  and  ground  and 
lofty  tumbling;  others  were  reciting  plays  for  the 
amusement  of  the  spectators,  and  still  others  were  oc- 
cupied in  witnessing  exhibitions  not  unlike  that  of 
44  Punch  and  Judy,”  which  are  often  to  be  met  with 
iiPthe  streets  of  London  and  Paris.  It  was,  in  fact,  a 
great  gala  day,  and  I was  highly  gratified  with  all 
that  came  under  my  observation.  The  crowd  was 
very  great,  but  I witnessed  no  disorderly  conduct 
among  them,  and  all  appeared  pleased  and  happy. 

We  left  at  an  early  hour  in  the  afternoon  fora  sim- 
ilar exhibition  on  the  European  side  of  the  Bospho- 
rus, about  seven  or  eight  miles  from  Constantinople. 
Here,  too,  we  found  an  immense  but  orderly  assem- 
blage, composed  of  both  sexes,  listening  to  a play 
performed  by  three  men.  The  ladies  present  were 
veiled  and  stood  on  one  side,  while  the  men  re- 
mained on  the  other;  and  all  seemed  to  enjoy  the  en- 
tertainment exceedingly.  After  the  play  ended,  the 
people  in  the  immediate  vicinity  passed  to  the  44  Punch 
and  Judy”  stand,  while  others  gave  their  attention 
to  various  amusements  going  on  here  and  there  of  a 
like  character  to  those  we  witnessed  at  the  sweet  wa- 
ters. There  were  no  carriages  present,  although  we 
noticed  several  gentlemen  mounted  on  superb  and 
spirited  Arabian  horses. 

On  our  return  to  Mr.  Williams’s  mansion  at  Buy- 
ukdere,  and  while  sailing  near  the  shore,  the  military 
at  every  station  turned  out  on  the  wharves,  formed 
themselves  in  line,  and  saluted,  bv  presenting  arms, 
the  American  flag  which  waved  above  us.  Mr.  Wil- 
liams, in  return  for  the  honor  conferred,  raised  his 
hat,  which  seemed  to  gratify  the  soldiers  exceedingly. 

1 attended,  while  at  Constantinople,  the  celebration 
of  our  national  anniversary  with  Mr.  Williams  and 


CONSTANTINOPLE, 


287 


family.  It  was  held  in  a beautiful  valley  on  the  A.si^ 
atic  side  of  the  Bosphorus,  and  at  least  one  hundred 
American  ladies  and  gentlemen  were  present.  A ta- 
ble was  spread  under  the  shade  of  the  wide-spreading 
branches  of  several  sycamore  trees,  the  growth  of 
centuries,  and  which  afforded  us  a refreshing  defense 
against  the  heat  of  the  noon  day  sun.  Mr.  Williams 
presided,  assisted  by  our  worthy  dragoman,  Mr. 
Brown.  It  was  more  like  a pic-nic  entertainment 
than  anything  I can  compare  it  to,  for  each  family 
brought  with  them  a goodly  supply  of  provisions. 
Many  of  the  gentlemen  present  were  missionaries 
from  the  United  States,  who  have  long  been  stationed 
in  these  regions,  and  who  rank  deservedly  high  as 
learned  divines.  Their  wives  and  daughters  were  no 
less  distinguished  for  their  attainments  than  for  their 
refinement  and  charming  manners. 

It  was  a joyous  occasion  to  us  all.  A fervent  and 
impressive  prayer  for  our  beloved  country  was  offered 
by  one  of  the  missionaries  present,  the  Rev.  Mr. 
Dwight,  since  deceased,  and  the  American  Ambassa- 
dor and  Mr.  Brown  both  delivered  eloquent  addresses; 
short  and  patriotic  speeches  were  also  made  by  others 
of  the  assembly,  and  on  being  called  upon  myself  I 
submitted  the  following  remarks:  “ She  spectacle 
before  me  of  so  many  Americans  gathered  in  this 
beautiful  valley,  far  distant  from  their  beloved  coun- 
try, to  celebrate  with  befitting  ceremonies  its  national 
anniversary,  makes  a deep  impression  on  my  mind, 
and  one  which  will  never  be  eradicated  so  long  as  life 
shall  last.  As  one  of  the  humblest  of  the  American 
citizens  present,  I thank  the  great  sovereign  of  this 
mighty  empire,  embracing  as  it  does  within  its  limits, 
portions  of  Europe,  Asia,  and  Africa,  for  the  privi- 
lege granted  to  the  citizens  of  the  United  States  here 
resident,  thus  peaceably  to  assemble  with  their  wives 
and  children  on  this  joyful  occasion  to  celebrate  a 


288 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


day  which  ought  ever  to  be  held  in  remembrance  and 
observance  by  every  true  and  patriotic  American, 
whether  he  be  at  home  or  abroad.  I concur  most 
heartily  in  the  sentiment  expressed  by  our  distin- 
guished resident  minister  of  this  Court,  in  regard  to  it 
being  the  duty  of  every  loyal  American  to  unite  with 
his  fellows  in  their  endeavors  to  preserve  the  union 
of  the  States  unimpaired.  Dead  must  that  American 
be  to  every  sentiment  of  gratitude  to  the  country  that 
gave  him  birth,  and  conferred  upon  him,  by  its  Con- 
stitution, the  right  to  be  secured  the  full  enjoyment 
of  life,  liberty  and  property,  if  he  should  at  any 
time  be  indifferent  to  the  preservation  of  that  Govern- 
ment, and  false  to  that  Constitution,  which  promises 
him  an  equal  right  with  the  restof  his  fellow  c'tizens, 
in  its  administration  : for  in  a Republic  the  people 
are  the  only  acknowledged  sovereigns.  No  nation, 
however  remote  from  another,  can  be  secure  from 
foreign  aggression,  since  commerce  makes  rivals  of 
them  all,  and  thus  excites  national  jealousy  which 
oftentimes  leads  to  aggressive  acts  : but,  as  it  has 
ever  been  the  policy  of  our  Government  to  preserve 
peaceful  relations  with  all  the  world,  we  need  give 
ourselves  little  uneasiness  from  danger  of  foreign  in- 
vasion  seekit^  its  overthrow.  But  as  regards  a disso- 
lution of  the  Union  through  domestic  dissensions,  as 
was  the  case  with  ancient  Rome,  I confess  to  have 
serious  fears,  still  I religiously  trust  that  such  a disas- 
trous calamity  will  be  averted,  and  the  noble  ship  of 
Siate  ride  safely  through  all  storms  which  may  assail  it. 
The  causes  which  led  ».o  the  overthrow  of  the  Roman 
republic,  that  mighty  Empire  which  was  once  termed 
the  mistress  of  t lie  world,  do  not  exist  in  the  United 
States.  Our  Republic  differs  from  others,  whether 
of  ancient  or  modern  times,  in  many  vital  particulars; 
and  especially  from  that  of  Rome — for  all  the  powers 
of  that  Government  were  concentrated  in  the  city  of 


CONST  A NTINOPLE. 


289 


Rome.  The  elections  for  the  choice  of  their  officers 
were  held  in  the  camp  of  Mars  ; the  inhabitants  of  the 
distant  provinces  had  no  voice  in  their  election,  nor 
even  in  selecting  the  officers  by  whom  they  were 
governed,  and  yet  they  were  obliged  to  provide  for 
the  support  of  the  army  and  navy,  sent  from  Rome  to 
keep  them  in  subjection,  and  likewise  pay  tribute  to 
the  great  Republic.  Besides,  the  governors  of  the 
various  provinces  enriched  themselves  by  the  monies 
extorted  from  the  inhabitants  under  the  guise  of 
taxes,  which  were  made  both  frequent  and  exorbitant, 
insomuch  that  the  people  were  finally  reduced  to 
want.  Plow  differently  constituted  our  Government 
is,  in  this  respect,  to  that  of  ancient  Rome,  I have 
scarcely  need  to  declare : with  us  a State,  however 
remote  its  location  may  be  from  the  seat  of  General 
Government,  or  however  short  a time  it  may  have 
been  admitted  into  the  Union,  enjo}7s  all  the  privi- 
leges accorded  to  the  oldest  State  in  the  Republic. 
Oregon,  whose  shores  are  washed  by  the  Pacific,  and 
which  lies  west  of  the  spot  where  we  now  are,  and 
almost  within  hailing  distance  of  us,  has  the  same 
rights  secured  to  its  citizens  as  have  the  States  of 
Virginia  and  Maryland,  within  whose  lap,  as  it  were, 
the  seat  of  Government  rests.  If,  moreover,  the 
Government  should  have  occasion  to  send  an  army 
into  any  one  of  the  far  western  States  to  put  down  an 
incursion  of  the  Indian  tribes  which  not  unfrequently 
occurs,  or  to  suppress  a mob,  or  servile  insurrection, 
all  the  expenses  are  defrayed  by  tl\e  entire  Union, 
and  not  by  the  State  which  has  been  the  speiie  of 
trouble. 

u It  is  not,  therefore,  a matter  of  wonder,  that  the 
citizens  of  the  Roman  provinces  were  always  seeking 
an  opportunity  to  shake  oil*  their  yoke,  when  we  con- 
sider how  oppressed  they  were,  and  how  little  unlike 
our  national  Union  was  their  Republic;  we  may 

13 


290 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


rather  wonder  they  submitted  as  long  as  they  did  to 
their  oppressors.  As  our  States  have  no  similar  canse 
of  complaint,  and  as  the  General  Government  is 
always  ready ‘to  redress  any  grievances  which  a sin- 
gle State  may  have,  it  certainly  seems  to  me,  that  if 
proper  care  and  fairness  is  exercised  in  the  guidance 
of  our  State  affairs,  the  Union — to  build  up  which  our 
forefathers  fought  and  bled,  and  the  successful  ac- 
complishment of  which  we  have  this  day  assembled 
to  celebrate — may  endure  forever. 

“It  is,  however,  a source  of  deep  regret  to  me,  that 
we  are  not,  as  a nation,  exempt  from  all  domestic 
difficulties.  We  cannot  close  our  eyes  to  the  fact  that 
we  possess  a few  discontented  spirits  who  would 
gladly  behold  the  dissolution  of  the  Union,  its  glo- 
rious galaxy  of  stars  reduced,  and  its  vast  boundaries 
narrowed  and  cut  down.  The  mass  of  the  people, 
however,  both  North  and  South,  if  they  could  be 
allowed  to  h ive  their  way,  would  courageously  op- 
pose any  attempt  at  disorganization ; but,  owing  to 
the  numerous  false  issues  that  are  made  on  both  sides, 
it  is  seriously  apprehended  that,  unless  our  rulers 
shall  exercise  a wise  and  prudent  forecast,  in  their 
endeavors  to  avert  such  a calamity,  even  many  of  us 
now  present  may  live  to  witness  our  happy  country 
become  the  scene  of  a bloody  and  fearful  war,  such 
as  the  world,  in  her  darkest  hours  of  terror,  has  never 
witnessed.  As  it  was  true  of  the  Grecians,  centuries 
ago,  that  4 when  Greek  meets  Greek,  then  comes  the 
tug  of  war,’  so  will  it  be  with  the  Americans  of  to-day 
if  ever  .civil  war  arises  and  they  are  divided,  house- 
hold against  household,  brother  against  brother. 
Deadly  and  long,  I fear,  will  be  the  combat,  and 
what  the  end  will  be  none  can  tell. 

44  It  does  not  require  a prophet  to  predict  that 
any  attempt  that  may  be  made — and  which  has  more 
than  once  been  threatened — by  either  of  the  States 


ATHENS  AND  ITS  RUINS. 


291 


to  secede  from  the  Union,  cannot  be  peaceably- 
effected,  but  will  end  most  assuredly  in  covering  our 
land  with  the  slain  bodies  of  her  children,  until  our 
once  happy  and  prosperous  country  becomes  reduced 
to  the  same  ruinous  condition  of  western  Asia,  which 
has  so  often  been  overrun  by  cruel  and  devastating 
wars,  the  effects  of  which  are  still  visible  wherever 
the  tourist  bends  his  way.  May  Heaven,  in  its  infi- 
nite wisdom  and 'mercy,  avert  from  our  people  a 
calamity  so  disastrous  in  its  consequences,  is  my  earnest 
and  devoted  prayer. 

“ Keep  us,  O God,  from  civil  war, 

Let  brothers  not  each  other  slay, 

But  still  the  rising  of  the  storm, 

And  drive  all  angry  thoughts  away.” 

The  whole  affair  passed  off  most  happily,  and 
before  sun  down  the  party  left  for  Constantinople  in 
one  of  the  steamers  which  ply  upon  the  Bosphorus. 
I returned  to  the  city  with  this  party,  and  numerous 
were  the  inquiries  made  by  them  concerning  relatives 
and  friends  whom  I chanced  to  know  in  the  United 
States. 

Mr.  Williams  informed  me  that  he  was  favored 
with  visits  once  every  two  weeks  from  the  missiona- 
ries and  other  families,  and  that  in  their  society  he 
and  his  household  derived  much  pleasure. 


CHAPTER  LX. 


ATHENS  AND  ITS  RUINS. 


Lemnian  W omen — Ncgropont — Thermopylae  — Athens  — Ruins  — Harbour  — 
Temple  of  Theseus— Athenian  Soldiers — Theseus— Ancient  Monuments— 
Arch  of  Adrian — Classic  Plays. 


Having  made  every  necessary  arrangement  for  our 
departure  from  Constantinople,  and  engaged  our  pas- 


292 


ATHENS  AND  ITS  EUINS. 


sage  on  a fine  French  propeller,  plying  regularly  be- 
tween Marseilles  and  this  city,  stopping  at  Messina 
and  Athens,  in  going  and  returning,  we  resumed  our 
journey  on  the  afternoon  of  the  sixth  of  July.  Rap- 
idly we  sailed  over  the  Sea  of  Marmora,  down  the 
Dardanelles  or  Hellespont,  along  the  coast  of  Troy, 
and  from  thence  crossing  the  Archipelago  or  ^Egean 
Sea  to  the  island  of  Euboea,  now  called  Negropont. 
We  passed  on  our  way  the  island  of  Lemnos,  celebra- 
ted for  two  horrible  massacr-es  that  occurred  upon  it, 
to  wit:  the  Lemnian  women  murdering,  their  hus- 
bands, and  that  of  the  Lemnian  or  Pelasgi  in  killing 
all  the  children  they  had  by  their  Athenian  wives. 
These  two  acts  of  cruelty  gave  rise  to  the  proverb  of 
u Lemnian  actions,”  which  has  ever  since  been  ap- 
plied to  all  barbarous  and  inhuman  acts.  The  voy- 
age over  these  classic  waters  was  made  with  the  deep- 
est interest. 

The  sea-coast  on  the  right  curves  around  from  the 
Dardanelles  to  the  Euboea,  with  numerous  and  exten- 
sive bays  penetrating  into  the  main-land,  to  a great 
extent,  so  that  we  looked  in  vain  toward  the  shore  in 
the  hope  of  catching  a passing  glimpse  of  Pharsa- 
lia,  Philippi,  and  other  points  on  the  coast  no  less  in- 
teresting. 

The  first  land  we  made  after  leaving  the  Hellespont 
was  the  northern  extremity  of  Negropont.  Here,  on 
the  main-land  opposite  to  this  point,  and  at  the  foot 
of  the  (Eta  mountains,  is  the  pass  of  Thermopylae. 
The  historical  recollections  connected  with  this  cele- 
brated island,  and  especially  its  chief  city,  Chalcis, 
cannot  fail  of  attracting  the  attention  of  the  voyager 
to  every  inch  of  its  coast,  as  he  sails  past  it  on  his 
way  to  Athens.  After  passing  around  the  headland 
of  this  famous  island,  and  crossing  the  arm  of  the  sea 
which  separates  it  from  Attica,  we  rounded  the  pro- 
montory of  Sunium  or  Cape  Colonna.  This  latter  ap  * 


ATHENS  AND  ITS  EUINS. 


293 


pellation  is  derived  from  some  ancient  columns  that 
are  still  standing  thereon.  Here  we  obtained  our 
first  view  of  the  no  less  celebrated  island  of  Salamis ; 
and  while  sailing  up  the  bay  of  Egina,  or  Salamis,  we 
had,  from  the  deck  of  our  vessel,  a view  of  the  most 
charming  description  of  the  ancient  city  of  Athens, 
“ the  Mother  of  Poetry  and  Wisdom  of  the  World,” 
and  likewise  of  the  plains  of  Attica,  which  surround 
the  city  on  every  side. 

Pausanias,  in  his  day,  said  that  the  spear  and  the 
crest  of  the  statue  of  Minerva,  in  the  Acropolis, 
might  be  seen  from  Sunium,  which,  in  a straight  line, 
is  thirty  miles  distant  from  the  city.  The  view  of 
the  ruins  from  the  waters  presents  a striking  contrast 
to  what  the  city  must  lmve  exhibited  in  its  palmiest 
clays,  when  crowned  with  gorgeous  temples  and  pala- 
latial  editices,  and  surrounded  by  turreted  walls. 

The  entrance  of  the  Piraeus,  one  of  its  ancient 
harbors,  is  narrow  and  winding,  being  contracted 
by  two  promontories;  hut  when  we  arrived  with- 
in it  I found  it  to  be  not  only  perfectly  secure 
against  the  storms  and  tempests  of  this  barbarous  sea  ; 
but  a capacious  and  beautiful  haven,  capable  of  con- 
taining three  hundred  ships.  This  harbor  was,  at  an 
early  period,  surrounded  by  a city  abounding  with 
temples,  palaces  and  magnificent  structures.  There 
is,  even  at  this  day,  a tine  town  built  about  if ; and, 
judging  from  the  number  of  vessels  at  its  wharves,  it 
must  enjoy  a proportionable  degree  of  mercantile  ac- 
tivity. The  city  is  situated  about  live  miles  east  of 
the  port,  and,  to  my  surprise,  I found  the  road  lead- 
ing to  it  perfectly  level.  I had  always  entertained 
the  idea  that  there  was  quite  an  ascent  between  the 
port  and  the  city  ; but  this  is  not  the  case.  The  road 
leads  over  an  extensive  plain,  and  the  traveller  cannot 
fail  to  observe,  as  he  passes  along,  the  remains  of  the 
foundation  of  the  walls  which  were  constructed  on 


294 


ATHENS  AND  ITS  "RUINS. 


both  sides  of  this  great  highway.  These  walls  were 
forty  feet  high,  and  sufficiently  broad  on  the  top  to 
admit  of  two  wagons  to  pass  each  other.  Some  of 
the  enormous  stones  with  which  they  were  constructed 
are  still  found  bordering  the  route  to  the  city. 

The  hill  on  which  the  Acropolis  is  situated  towers 
above  everything  within  the  former  walls  of  the  city, 
and  attracts  the  attention  of  the  traveller  as  he  ap- 
proaches it,  whether  he  enters  it  from  the  direction 
of  either  of  the  points  of  the  compass.  This  hill,  at 
the  time  Cecrops  first  landed  here,  in  the  year  1571  b. 
c.,  was,  no  doubt,  sufficiently  extensive  to  contain  his 
small  colony,  or,  if  not  all,  at  least  such  portion  of  it 
as  he  relied  upon  to  defend  his  people  from  foreign 
aggression.  The  ancients  always  selected  high  hills 
for  the  site  of  their  towns,  in  order  to  prevent  them 
from  being  battered  by  enemies 

On  reaching  the  former  site  of  the  city  we  stopped 
at  the  Temple  of  Theseus,  erected  upon  a small  isola- 
ted elevation.  This  beautiful  temple  has  been  stand- 
ing two  thousand  three  hundred  and  twenty-four 
years,  and  has  always  been  regarded  as  one  of  the 
most  exquisite  specimens  of  ancient  Doric  architec- 
ture ever  erected.  Although  somewhat  injured  by 
time,  yet  it  may  be  regarded  as  being,  comparatively 
speaking,  still  perfect.  The  eastern  pediment  and 
metopes  are  adorned  with  sculpture,  as  are,  likewise, 
the  four  on  the  north  and  south  sides.  It  has  its  six 
columns  on  either  end,  and  its  thirteen  on  either  side, 
still  standing.  We  entered  the  temple  and  examined 
many  of  the  cnrious  and  interesting  relics — embra- 
cing broken  statues,  reliefs  and  sarcophagi,  etc. — for 
it  is  now  converted  into  a museum.  There  are  some 
tablets  preserved  here  on  which  the  ancients  recorded 
the  arrival  and  departure  of  vessels  employed  in  any 
important  service,  together  with  the  names  of  their 
commanders,  achievements,  etc.  There  are  no  build- 


ATHENS  AND  ITS  RUINS. 


295 


ings,  either  public  or  private,  standing  near  it,  nor  is 
it  within  an  enclosure. 

While  we  were  present  a battalion  of  Athenian 
soldiers  were  being  drilled  in  front  of  the  temple,  by 
a skilful  drill  officer,  and  we  witnessed  with  gratifica- 
tion the  manoeuvres  through  which  he  exercised  his 
troops.  The  Acropolis  is  within  a stone’s-throw  of 
the  temple,  and  towers  far  above  it,  as  it  does,  in- 
deed, above  every  object  near  by.  The  historical  ac- 
count of  this  temple  is  not  uninteresting.  Eight  cen- 
turies after  the  death  of  Theseus,  the  Athenians  sud- 
denly became  ashamed  of  the  ingratitude  of  their 
ancestors  toward  this  great  benefactor,  in  driving 
him  out  of  Athens  to  die  by  violence  in  a foreign 
country.  It  was  represented  that  his  spectre  had  been 
seen  engaged  in  fighting  against  the  Medes  at  Mara- 
thon ; and  Pytliia,  the  Priestess  of  Apollo  at  Delphi, 
having  been  consulted,  directed  the  removal  of  his 
bones  to  Athens, -and  that  he  should  thenceforth  be 
honored  as  a hero.  Cimon,  son  of  Miltiades,  who  was 
sent  to  Seyms  to  obtain  his  remains,  brought  them  to 
the  Pirgeus.  The  Athenians  received  them  with  pro- 
cessions and  sacrifices,  and  entombed  them  on  a 
height  in  the  middle  of  Athens.  The  present  temple, 
therefore,  which  was  erected  over  the  tomb,  was 
finished  about  the  year  465  b.  o.  It  was  unequalled 
in  sanctity,  except  by  the  temple  of  Minerva  in  the 
Acropolis. 

Only  a few  ancient  buildings  are  now  standing, 
beside  the  temple  of  Theseus,  which  may  be  con- 
sidered perfect;  of  these  the  monument  of  Sysicrates, 
which  was  built  three  hundred  and  thirty-five  years 
b.  c.,  is  particularly  interesting  on  account  of  its 
being  the  earliest  authentic  structure  of  the  Corin- 
thian order  of  architecture.  There  is  no  access  to  its 
interior,  and  it  is  only  eight  feet  in  diameter,  and 
thirty-four  in  height.  The  Temple  of  the  Winds,  an- 


296 


ATHENS  AND  ITS  RUINS. 


other,  is  an  octagon  tower,  forty-four  feet  high,  with 
porticos  on  the  north-east  and  north-west  sides,  each 
upheld  by  two  fluted  columns.  It  was  erected  one 
hundred  and  fifty  years  before  Christ,  and  has,  conse- 
quently, been  standing  upward  of  two  thousand  years. 
The  tasteful  and  beautiful  archway  of  Adrian  is  also 
standing.  This  is  fifty-six  feet  in  height  and  twenty 
feet  wide,  and  is  built  of  white  marble,  richly  orna- 
mented with  sculpture.  All  tliaX  now  remains  of  the 
grand  temple  of  Jupiter  Olympus,  the  approach  to 
which  from  the  city  was  through  this  celebrated  arch, 
are  fifteen  of  its  original  one  hundred  and  twenty  Co- 
rinthian columns,  each  sixty  feet  in  height  by  six 
feet  in  diameter  at  the  base.  This  magnificent  tem- 
ple, which  contained  the  colossal  statue  of  the  god  in 
ivory  and  gold,  was  the  most  superb  specimen  of  the 
Corinthian  order  of  architecture  in  the  world.  It 
was  a half  mile  in  circumference,  and  was  said  to  be 
nearly  equal  to  the  temple  of  Diana  at  Ephesus. 

We  passed  around  the  Acropolis  in  order  to  obtain 
a view  of  it  from  every  side,  and  to  examine  particu- 
larly all  that  is  to  be  seen  of  the  ancient  theatre  of 
Bacchus,  and  the  Odeum,  no  less  remarkable  for  its 
antiquity.  The  former  is  situated  near  the  eastern 
extremity  of  the  Acropolis,  on  the  south  side.  It 
consists  of  extensive  excavations  on  the  side  of  the 
hill  beneath  the  temple  of  Minerva.  Several  rows 
of  circular  seats,  cut  in  the  side  of  the  rocks,  are  still 
visible.  This  grand  theatre  was  built  in  the  year  475 
b.  c.,  and  was  capable  of  containing  thirty  thousand 
spectators.  Here  the  plays  of -dEschylus,  Sophocles 
and  Euripides,  were  performed  to  admiring  audiences. 
The  Odeum,  or  Musical  Theatre,  was  situated  beneath 
the  southern  wall  of  the  Acropolis,  at  the  western 
extremity.  It  was  erected  by' Pericles,  but  demo- 
lished by  Mithridates,  and  rebuilt  with  so  much  splen- 
dor by  Herodes  Atticus,  that,  according  to  Pausanias 
it  surpassed  all  former  buildings  in  Greece. 


ATHENS  AND  ITS  RUINS. 


297 


CHAPTER  LXI. 


ATHENS  AND  ITS  RUINS CONCLUDED. 


The  Odeum — Mount  Pnyx — Cell  of  Socrates — The  Acropolis — Temple  of  Vic- 
tory—Doric  Columns — View  of  the  City— Mars  Hill— St.  Paul — Ilissus— . 
The  Modern  Town- Climate— Rev.  Mr.  Hill— Palace  and  Surroundings -- 
Residence  of  the  Hills — Milton’s  Lines. 


All  that  now  remains  of  the  Odeum  is  the  original 
excavation  in  the  rock  at  the  base  of  the  hill.  This 
building  is  said  to  have  been  capable  of  holding  eight 
thousand  spectators. 

There  is  a line-  view  of  the  Acropolis  from  Mount 
Pnyx.  It  was  on  this  mount  that  Lord  Elgin  cleared 
away  the  earth  and  discovered  the  steps  which  de- 
fined, more  clearly  than  heretofore  known,  the  posi- 
tion of  the  Bema.  These  steps  are  still  distinctly 
visible.  Here  the  public  assemblies  were  held. 
Here  Pericles,  Alcibiades,  and  Demosthenes,  raised 
their  voices.  Here,  too,  the  people  were  heard  who 
complained  of  their  tyrants.  This  city  was  called  by 
the  ancients  u one  of  the  eyes  of  Attica,  the  learned 
city,  the  school  of  the  world,  the  common  patroness 
of  Greece.” 

The  cell  of  Socrates  is  within  a few  steps  of  this 
forum,  which  is  confined  to  three  rooms,  one  of  which 
is  circular  in  form  and  cut  out  of  the  solid  flint  rock. 
As  there  is  no  doubt  in  regard  to  it^identity,  all  tour- 
ists visit  it  with  the  deepest  interest  and  leave  it  with 
regret.  Every  step  one  takes  in  and  about  this  an- 
cient city  brings  to  his  mind  associations  connected 
with  the  acts  of  its  truly  illustrious  citizens.  There 
is  not  a liill,  or  a rock,  within  or  near  its  limits  which 

13* 


298 


ATHENS  AND  ITS  RUINS. 


has  not  a name  inscribed  upon  the  pages  of  history. 
But  of  all  the  places  in  or  about  Athens,  the  Acro- 
polis is  the  most  deserving  of  attention.  It  stands  in 
the  centre  of  the  city,  on  an  isolated  hill,  three  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  in  height,  and  one  thousand  feet  long, 
by  five  hundred  wide.  Upon  its  summit  stands  the 
Parthenon  or  Temple  of  Minerva.  Among  the  nume- 
rous public  buildings  none  was  more  celebrated  than 
this,  which,  after  being  burnt  by  the  Persians,  was 
rebuilt  by  Pericles.  Its  ruins  still  exist — a remark- 
able monument  of  the  heroism  and  patriotism  of  the 
inhabitants*  while  its  architecture  displays  great  abil- 
ity in  the  builder.  The  length  of  the  temple  is  two 
hundred  and  eighty  feet,  by  one  hundred  in  width.  Of 
its  once  numerous  Doric  columns,  which  are  six  and  a 
half  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base,  and  thirty-four  and 
a half  feet  in  height,  only  thirty-two  are  now  stand- 
ing. The  sculpture,  of  which,  there  was  a great 
amount,  and  of  the  finest  description,  is  all  gone,  ex- 
cept three  horses’  heads  in  the  corner  of  the  eastern, 
and  in  a single  group  on  the  western,  pediment,  sup- 
posed to  be — for  the  finer  parts  are  obliterated — a 
Oecrops  and  his  wife.  The  edifice  called  the  Propy- 
laea,  which  was  much  admired  by  the  Greeks  them- 
selves, is  still  standing  on  the  western  end  of  the 
Acropolis  and  in  front  of  the  Parthenon,  and  while  it 
served,  at  an  early  date,  as  a fortress  or  citadel,  it 
was  designed  and  used  as  the  grand  vestibule  to  the 
Parthenon.  The  approach  to  it  from  the  west,  is  by 
sixty  short  steps  of  seventy  feet  in  width,  and  the 
portico  is  sixty-nine  and  a half  feet  broad,  supported 
by  six  Doric  coliTmns,  each  five  feet  in  diameter  at 
the  base,  and  twenty-nine  feet  in  height.  The  rub* 
bisli  which  covered  these  steps  and  portico,  while  the 
city  was  held  by  the  Turks,  has  been  removed,  and 
the  work  is  stdl  going  on  about  the  building.  A 
large  number  of  laborers  were  employed  while  we 


ATHENS  AND  ITS  RUINS. 


299 


were  there,  and  new  and  important  discoveries  were 
constantly  being  made.  The  only  buildings  now  re- 
maining upon  the  Acropolis  are  the  Temple  of  Vic- 
tory and  the  Erechtheum,  both  in  ruins.  The  form- 
er, whieh  was  almost  entirely  destroyed,  has  had  its 
materials  preserved,  and  its  restoration  is  now  being 
completed.  The  latter  temple  was  formerly  a large 
building,  said  to  have  been  the  palace  an'd  residence 
of  Erechtheus,  who  married  the  daughter  of  Cecrops, 
and  it  was  afterward  used  as  the.  residence  of  the 
kings  of  Attica  for  several  centuries.  From  this 
temple  the  sovereigns  of  Athens  could  look  down  on 
the  city,  and  observe  all  that  was  passing  within  its 
walls.  This  temple  is  regarded  as  the  finest  specimen 
of  the  Doric  order  of  architecture  that  exists,  and  it 
has  defied  all  human  ingenuity  to  copy  it.  Six  of  the 
celebrated  caryatide  columns,  representing  Athenian 
virgins  robed  in  the  Panathenseic  costume,  support 
the  southern  portico.  The  workmanship  displayed 
on  these  columns  is  exquisite.  One  of  these  beauti- 
ful columns  was  taken  to  England,  and  within  a few 
years  past  a new  one  has  been  erected  in  its  place  ; 
but  while  it  resembles  the  originals,  it  falls  far  short 
of  equalling  them. 

The  view  of  the  city  and  surrounding  country  from 
the  Acropolis  is  grand  beyond  description.  The  Mu- 
seum Ilill  and  Mount  Pnyx,  neither  of  which  much 
exceed  fifty  feet  in  height,  stand  at  the  south-west, 
almost  within  a stone’s-throw  of  the  Acropolis  ; while 
directly  at  its  western  base,  and  joined  to  it,  is  the 
celebrated  Areopagus,  called  Mars’  Hill,  which,  with 
the  two  above-named,  and  the  Acropolis  itself,  are 
the  only  hills  that  were  within  the  ancient  walls  of 
the  city,  embracing  a circuit  of  twenty-two  miles  in 
extent.  It  was  on  the  Areopagus  hill  that  the  supe- 
rior council  of  Areopagus  assembled.  This  high  and 
distinguished  tribunal  first  sat  in  the  open  air ; but, 


300 


ATHENS  AND  ITS  RUINS. 


we  are  told,  in  process  of  time,  a roof  of  tiles  was 
6pread  over  it.  The  hill  or  clump  of  rocks — for  it  is 
one  mass -of  rocks — is  so  small,  that  one  wonders  how 
a building  of  any  size  could  ever  have  been  erected 
upon  it.  It  was  here  that  Paul  preached  to  the  Athe- 
nians, and  lie  could  have  been  heard  distinctly  by  all 
who  were  standing  on  the  sixty  steps,  the  extensive 
portico  of  the  Propyl  sea,  on  the  hill  of  Mars,  and  in 
the  valley  below.  The  view  from  this  hill,  also  em- 
braces the  gulf  and  island  of  Salamis  on  the  south, 
Mount  Parnes  on  the  north,  Mount  HSgiatos  on  the 
west,  and  Mounts  Hymettus  and  Anchesmus  on  the 
west.  The  city  itself  lies  like  an  outspread  map  below, 
and  every  street  and  lane  is  distinctly  visible,  with  the 
citizens  in  carriages,  on  horseback,  and  on  foot,  mov- 
ing in  all  directions.  From  there  can  also  be  seen 
the  seats  of  the  gymnasium,  of  Hadrian  and  of  Plato 
and  the  very  spot  where  Aristotle  taught  his  disciples 
on  the  banks  of  the  Ilissus.  The  bed  of  this  stream 
is  now  dry,  and  I am  told  is  usually  so  during  the 
summer  months.  From  this  remarkably  located  hill 
one  can  also  observe  the  place  where  the  people 
assembled  on  all  important  occasions. 

This  renowned  city,  which  was  left  a heap  of  ruins 
at  the  close  of  the  last  Greek  struggle  for  independ- 
ence, is  now  rapidly  assuming  a position  of  import- 
ance, and  will  soon  present  an  imposing  appearance. 
The  king’s  palace  is  a grand  structure  of  thepenletter 
marble.  It  cost,  it  is  said,  upward  of  one  million 
pounds  sterling.  Among  the  public  builHings  which 
have  been  erected  within  a few  years  past,  are  the 
mint,  the  military  hospital,  and  extensive  barracks 
for  the  soldiers.  There  are  several  line  hotels  and 
restaurants  wherein  the  charges  are  moderate.  The 
language  of  the  court  is  German. 

Tiie  city  is  situated  in  about  thirty-eight  degrees  of 
north  latitude.  The  climate  is  remarkably  mild, 


ATHENS  .AND  ITS  KUINS. 


301 


balmy  and  salubrious.  The  heat  of  summer  is  tern 
pered  by  the  cooling  sea-breezes,  and  all  visitors,  as 
well  as  residents,  concur  in  representing  it  to  be  re- 
markably healthy. 

I visited  the  Palace  and  its  grounds  in  company  with 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Hill,  an  American  missionary,  who,  I 
am  happy  to  say,  is  much  respected  by  all  in  author- 
ity as  web  as  by  every  citizen  in  Athens.  In  our 
ramble  about  the  premises,  which  are  tastefully  laid 
out,  and  cultivated,  we  noticed  an  exquisite  mosaic 
floor,  with  rich  borders,  which  formerly  belonged  to 
some  ancient  edifice,  that  had  been  discovered  in  dig- 
ging away  the  earth  in  order  to  regulate  the  grounds* 
Over  it  the  king  has  had  erected  a beautiful  summer- 
house, which  will  be  the  means  of  preserving  the 
floor  entire. 

Mr.  and  Mrs.  Hill  extended  to  us  many  civilities 
while  we  sojourned  in  Athens.  They  live  in  princely 
style,  and  in  a palatial  mansion,  within  an  enclosure 
tilled  with  ornamented  shrubbery  and  a variety  of 
choice  fruit  trees.  The  mansion  is  in  the  form  of  an 
oblong  square,  with  a large  court  in  the  centre.  I 
was  conducted  through  the  various  departments  of 
the  school  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Hill  and  his  ac- 
complished wife,  and  was  greatly  delighted  with  all 
I witnessed.  Mr.  Hill’s  library  occupies  one  of  the 
largest  apartments,  and  is  filled  with  a weil-selected 
collection  of  ancient  and  modern  literature.  The 
school  is  one  of  the  best  institutions  of  its  character 
in  the  city.  I had  long  been  acquainted  with  Mrs. 
Hill.  She  is  the  daughter  of  J.  W.  Mulligan,  Esq.,  a 
distinguished  barrister,  formerly  of  the  city  of  New- 
York,  whose  country-seat  was  within  a short  distance 
of’  my  own  residence  on  the  Hudson.  I am  fully  ac- 
quainted with  the  fact  that  this  good  man  and  excel- 
lent parent  spared  no  expense  in  the  education  of  his 
accomplished  daughter.  Mrs.  Hill  is  now  distin- 


302 


FROM  ATHENS  TO  MARSEILLES. 


guished  alike  for  her  literary  attainments  and  her  re- 
finement of  manners.  I trust' that  her  life  and  that 
of  her  noble  husband  may  long  be  spared  to  pursue 
their  present  career  of  usefulness  in  the  field  whither 
their  consciences  and  tastes  have  led  them. 

I quitted  Athens  with  regret,  for  my  stay  there  had 
been  one  of  unalloyed  pleasure  ; and  when  wander- 
ing amidst  the  ruins  of  its  ancient  greatness,  I had 
experienced  sublime  and  solemn  feelings.  More  than 
once  these  noble  lines  by  Milton  rose  to  my  mind,  as 
I gazed  from  the  Acropolis  upon  the  scene  around  me  : 

“ Look  ! on  the  AJgean  shore  a city  stands, 

Built  nobly — pure  the  air  and  light  the  soil. 

Athens  ! the  eye  of  Greece,  mother  of  arts 
And  eloquence,  native  to  famous  wits, 

Or  hospitable  in  her  sweet  recess. 

City  of  suburban  studious  walks  and  shades  ! 

See  there  the  olive  groves  of  Academe, 

Plato’s  retirement,  where  the  Attic  bird 
Thrills  her  thick  warbled  notes  the  summer  long. 

There,  flowery  hill  Hymettus,  with  the  sound 
Of  bees’  industrious  murmur,  oft  invites 
To  studious  musing  ; there  Ilissus  rolls 
His  whispering  stream  ; within  the  walls  then  view 
The  schools  ot  ancient  sages  ; his  who  bred 
Great  Alexander  to  subdue  the  world  ; 

Lyceum  there,  and  painted  Sylva  next.” 


CHAPTER  LXII. 

FROM  ATHENS  TO  MARSEILLES. 


Spartevento — Messina— Earthquake — Surface  of  Sicily— Its  Fertility — Scylla 
and  Charybdis— Ulysses— Lapara— Arrival  at  Marseilles 

On  our  voyage  from  Athens  to  Marseilles  we  were 
favored  with  mild,  pleasant  weather.  The  first  land 
we  made  afrer  leaving  Greece  was  the  Cape  of  Spar- 
tevento,  on  the  Italian  coast.  Here  the  mountains 
rise  to  a considerable  height,  and  upon  their  southern 


FROM  ATHENS  TO  MARSEILLES. 


303 


declivities  are  to  be  seen  several  beautiful  villages. 
We  sailed  in  full  view  of  the  fine  old  towns  of  Mon- 
tebello and  Reggio,  and  stopped  at  the  city  of  Mes- 
sina. Before  our  anchors  were  dropped,  our  noble 
steamer  was  surrounded  by  a great  number  of  row- 
boats, some  of  which  were  employed  in  bearing  pas- 
sengers to  and  from  the  shore,  while  others  were  filled 
with  fancy  articles  that  their  owners  offered  for  sale. 

The  city  of  Messina  contains  eighty  thousand  in- 
habitants. It  lies  at  the  base  of  the  mountains,  and 
is  charmingly  situated.  Its  capacious,  safe  and  beau- 
tiful harbor  was  filled  with  vessels  of  all  classes,  fur 
the  town  is  the  centre  of  an  extensive  trade  carried  on 
between  Italy  and  the  Levant.  The  streets  are  broad, 
regularly  laid  out,  and  paved  with  lava.  Since  the 
great  earthquake  of  1783  the  houses  are  not  built  as 
high  as  they  were  previous  to  that  event;  there  are, 
however,  several  large  and  elegant  private  residen- 
ces, and  at  least  sixty  churches,  one  episcopal  bishop’s 
palace,  the  royal  residence,  a number  of  seminaries 
for  the  education  of  youth,  and  asylums  for  the  poor 
and  insane. 

The  surface  of  the  island  of  Sicily  is  greatly  diver- 
sided  by  hills  and  valleys.  A chain  of  mountains  ex- 
tend across  the  island  from  east  to  west,  the  highest 
point  of  which  is  the  volcano  of  Mount  Etna.  The 
country  was  settled,  at  a very  early  period,  by  the 
Pnoenicians.  Palermo,  Messina,  and  Catina  are  its 
most  important  towns,  in  a military  point  of  view,  and 
are  united  by  a road  along  the  northern  coast.  Pa- 
lermo is  its  chief  town  and  the  seat  of  government. 

The  island  is  well  watered  by  numerous  streams 
and  rivulets,  and  has  ever  been  celebrated  for  its  fer- 
tility, so  much  so  as  to  have  been  termed  one  of  the 
granaries  of  Rome.  Pliny  says  that  it  rewarded  the 
husbandman  a hundred  fold.  Its  manufactures  con- 


304: 


FROM  ATHENS  TO  MARSEILLES. 


sist  of  silk,  cotton,  linen,  and  woollen  goods,  which  are 
confined  to  the  chief  towns. 

This  island,  as  the  old  poets  declare,  was  once  the 
residence  of  the  Cyclops,  and  it  may  have  been  here 
where  Ulysses,  after  several  of  his  followers  had  been 
destroyed  by  the  giant  Polyphemus,  escaped  from  his 
cave  with  the  rest  by  the  aid  of  the  giant’s  sheep. 
From  its  exposed  situation  it  suffered  greatly  from 
the  attacks  of  the  Carthagenians  and  Romans  at  dif- 
ferent periods.  It  was  always  regarded  as  a rich 
prize  of  war  by  all  the  surrounding  nations.  The 
straits  of  Messina  is  a beautiful  sheet  of  water, 
not  exceeding  in  several  parts  of  it  more  than  a 
width  of  two  miles.  The  ancients  always  represented 
it  as  being  a very  dangerous  passage  on  account  of 
its  currents  and  the  irregular  and  violent  flowing  and 
ebbing  of  the  sea.  This,  doubtless,  furnished  Homer 
with  materials  for  his  remarkable  description  of 
Ulysses’  shipwreck  between  Scylla  and  Charybdis. 
There  is  a small  village  on  the  Italian  shore  which,  it 
is  said,  marks  the  position  of  Scylla,  but  the  exact  po- 
sition of  Charybdis,  on  the  opposite  shore,  is  not  known 
to  the  mariners  of  the  present  day.  There  is  no 
whirlpool  or  revolving  vortex  sufficiently  hazardous  to 
correspond  with  the  descriptions  of  this  celebrated 
spot  as  given  by  the  ancients.  Tiie  only  danger 
which  is  now  encountered  in  this  strait  is,  I am  told, 
when  the  wind  and  the  current  are  in  opposite  direc- 
tions, so  that  vessels  are  impelled  toward  the  pointed 
rocks,  supposed  to  be  Charybdis.  This  may  occur 
during  a violent  storm,  for  as  there  is  no  island  to  act 
as  a breakwater  before  the  mouth  of  the  strait,  tine 
waves  whirl  fiercely  around  the  point  of  land,  and 
break  against  the  rocks  with  fury.  Our  noble  ves- 
sel, however,  sailed  past,  totally  regardless  of  the  bad 
name  given  to  it  by  the  ancients. 

We  passed,  on  the  day  we  left  Messina,  the  group 


FROM  ATHENS  TO  MARSEILLES. 


305 


of  Lapari  islands.  They  were  formerly  known  by 
the  name  of  Eolic,  or  Vulcanim  insula.  The  former 
name  they  received  from  having  been  fabled  to  be 
the  residence  of  JEolus,  King  of  the  Wind,  who  gave 
^to  Ulysses,  while  on  his  return  from  Troy,  prosperous 
winds  and  enclosed  adverse  ones  in  a leather  bag ; 
which  he  placed  on  board  of  the  vessel  of  Ulysses. 
Ilis  companions  Opening  the  bag  when  within  sight 
of  land,  in  search  *>f  treasures,  were  driven  back 
again  by  the  violence  of  the  winds  into  the  midst  of 
the  ocean.  The  latter  name,  quoted  above,  was  de- 
rived from  the  volcanic  nature  of  the  islands.  There 
are  three  volcanoes  in  the  group,  of  which  Stromboli 
is  the  principal.  The  tire  issuing  from  this  crater 
was  distinctly  seen  from  the  deck  of  our  vessel.  The 
whole  region  about  Sicily  and  Naples  is  principally 
volcanic,  and  the  soil  is  often  convulsed  by  earth- 
quakes. Even  the  sea  is  not  exempt  from  these 
shocks,  for,  in  1831,  there  arose  in  the  midst  of  the 
sea  a volcanic  island,  about  one  mile  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  over  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  height. 
It  disappeared  after  a few  months,  but  reappeared  in 
the  spring  of  1832. 

Lapara,  the  largest  of  this  group,  has  a city  of  the 
same  name.  It  is  especially  celebrated  for  its  foun- 
tain, the  waters  of  which  are  much  frequented  by 
visitors  on  account  of  their  medicinal  properties. 

W e arrived  in  Marseilles  in  safety  a few  days  after 
our  departure  from  Messina,  and  I can  say  that  I 
know  of  no  part  of  the  world  where  persons  of  leis- 
ure can  spend  the  months  of  April,  May,  June,  and 
July  more  to  their  satisfaction  than  in  visiting  the  an- 
cient cities  which  lie  upon  these  waters.  The  sea,  at 
this  season  of  the  year,  is  invariably  calm,  and  the 
wTeather  mild  and  delightful.  Those  travellers  who 
select  the  autumn  or  winter  months  for  this  voyage 


306 


FROM  ATHENS  TO  MARSEILLES. 


will  experience  violent  storms  on  the  sea,  and  drench 
ing  rains  on  the  land. 

There  are  several  fine  lines  of  steamers  between 
Marseilles  and  Alexandria,  in  Egypt,  and  Constanti- 
nople, which  connect  with  other  lines  running  to  Asia 
Minor,  Syria,  and  Egypt,  thus  enabling  the  traveller 
to  pass  to  Alexandria  by  one  route,  and  return  by  the 
other. 


APPENDIX. 


Note  First. — As  it  is  not  unusual  for  persons  to  en 
quire  into  the  expenses  of  a journey  to  Palestine,  and  as 
the  author  of  this  volume  has  already  received  many  en- 
quiries of  this  nature,  he  is  induced  to  make  the  following 
statement,  which  covers  the  travelling  expenses  of  one  per- 
son, so  far  as  regards  the  fare  on  steamboats  and  railroads. 
As  the  former  conveyance  includes  board,  it  will  not  he  dif- 
ficult for  a person  desirous  of  making  the  tour,  to  calculate 
the  amount  necessary  to  cover  all  expenses.  The  living  in 
England  is  about  the  same  as  it  is  in  this  country,  in  France 
it  is  much  less,  and  at  the  best  hotels  in  Alexandria  and 
Cairo,  in  Egypt,  as  well  as  in  Syria,  Asia  Minor,  and 
Athens  in  Greece  it  is  $2.50  per  day,  while  at  Constantino- 
ple it  is  $5.  If  while  travelling  tbe  tourist  requires  a pri- 
vate parlor,  and  meals  in  his  own  apartment,  the  charges 
for  these  are  about  the  same  as  they  are  in  the  United 
States. 

The  author  has  given  below  the  rate  of  fare  in  the  first 
cabin  in  steamers,  and  on  the  first  class  cars  of  railroads. 
To  those  who  prefer  to  travel  second  class — which,  it  must 
he  remembered,  gives  them  a better  opportunity  of  learn- 
ing the  manners,  habits  and  customs  of  the  great  mass  of 
the  people  through  whose  country  they  journey — a consid- 
erable deduction  from  the  estimate  herein  given  should  be 
made.  The  fare  from  New  York  to  Liverpool  varies  ac- 
cording to  the  line  of  steamers  taken.  As  jfche  writer  took 
the  route  by  the  way  of  Ireland — the  famous  Galway  line 
— he  has  stated  the  sum  paid  by  him  for  a ticket  which 
carried  him  through  to  London  without  additional  expense, 
to  wit : 


(307) 


3C8 


APPENDIX. 


From  New  York  to  London  by  steamers  across  the 
Atlantic  and  Irish  channel,  and  railroad  via  Gal- 
way, Dublin  and  Wales $75 

From  London  to  Marseilles,  via  Calais,  Paris  and 
Lyons  .........  40 

From  Marseilles  to  Alexandria  in  Egypt,  by  an  Eng- 
lish steamer  ........  100 

From  Alexandria  to  Suez,  via  Cairo  ...  20 

From  Suez  back  to  Alexandria  ....  20 

From  Alexandria  to  Joppa  by  a coasting  vessel,  and 
then  through  the  Holy  Land  on  horseback,  with 
tents,  and  including  meals  for  self  and  daughter  . 325 

From  Beirout  to  Constantinople  by  a Russian  steamer  75 
From  Constantinople  to  Marseilles,  stopping  at  Ath- 
ens in  Greece,  by  a French  steamer  . . . 100 

From  Marseilles  to  London  . . . . . 40 

From  London  to  New  York  . . . . .100 

$895 

The  traveller  may  live  in  the  various  places  wherein  he 
may  sojourn  for  a while,  as  economically  or  expensively  as 
he  likes  ; but  these  sums  must  be  added  to  the  above- 
named  amount. 

Again,  if  he  travel  alone  he  may  engage  his  passage  in 
Alexandria  for  one  hundred  dollars  from  there  to  Constan- 
tinople, with  the  privilege  of  stopping  anywhere  that  the 
line  of  steamers  touches  at  on  the  route.  In  this  way  he 
can  halt  on  his  journey  at  Joppa,  and  at  no  great  expense 
visit  Jerusalem  and  all  the  interesting  localites  in  its  vi- 
cinity, and  afterwards  resume  his  journey  on  the  succeed- 
ing steamer.  He  can  stop  again  at  Beirout,  and  visit  Da- 
mascus, the  ancient  cities  of  Sidon  and  Tyre  on  the  coast, 
and  several  other  points  of  interest,  and  continue  his  voy- 
age to  Constantinople  on  any  of  the  steamers  belonging  to 
the  same  line. 

Most  travellers,  however,  prefer  “ tent-life  ” while  jour- 
neying through  Palestine,  which  enables  them  to  visit  ev- 
ery part  of  that  aucient  and  interesting  country. 


APPENDIX. 


309 


Note  Second. — In  the  chapter  entitled  From  Alexandria 
to  Gazza,  page  119,  the  author  speaks  of  the  probability  of 
the  canal  across  the  Isthmus  being  completed  at  no  distant 
day.  Late  advices  from  Egypt  state  that  the  opening  of 
this  provisional  canal,  as  far  as  Lake  Timsah,  was  celebra- 
ted with  appropriate  and  interesting  ceremonies,  on  the 
18th  November,  1862.  “ At  ten  o’clock  in  the  morning, ” 

says  a letter  writer,  “ M.  de  Lesseps.  in  the  presence  of 
an  immense  concourse  of  people,  gave  the  word  ‘By  com- 
mand of  His  Highness  Said  Pacha,  Viceroy  of  Egypt,’  and 
the  waters  of  the  Mediterranean  gushed  half  way  across 
the  isthmus.  Dinner  was  served  for  a party  of  three  hun- 
dred and  fifty  guests  ; a Te  Deum  was  performed  in  the 
Catholic  Church,  besides  Mahomedan  services  in  the 
Mosque.  The  ladies  who  were  present  as  guests  were 
drawn  about  in  wagons  attached  to  six  dromedaries  apiece, 
while  the  men  rode  on  horseback.  The  Arabs  amused 
themselves  by  catching  the  sea-fish  that  drifted  into  the 
unaccustomed  places.  In  the  evening  there  were  fireworks, 
illuminations,  and  a ball.” 

Note  Third. — Another  explanation  besides  those  related 
in  Chapter  XXI,  has  recently  been  made  to  solve  the 
mystery  of  the  construction  of  the  pyramids.  The  present 
exponent  is  Mahomed  Bey,  a learned  Eastern,  who  states 
that  they  were  constructed  with  their  present  face-angles 
to  receive  the  direct  rays  of  the  star  Sirius,  which  was  the 
Egyptian  judge  of  the  dead 


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